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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 10/26/2003 12:31:08 AM EST
Hello, I have two 16" rifles and both of them have the handguard rail systems on them. I would like to get a tactical light for at least one of them. I know nothing about them and would like some reccommendations of lights and the better companies that make them. I also would like to know what makes a good light and a poor one. The things to look for and the must have's and the must stay away from features. The features that I know that I would like for sure are, I want it to be small and light. It seems to me that it would be better to have it seperate from the vertical grip but I might be wrong. Any help would be great. Thanks
Link Posted: 10/26/2003 12:32:52 AM EST
Surefire 962 9v or 952 6v. The 962 if you want a beam with some reach for outdoor use, 952 if indoor is your primary application. I like them with throw lever mounts and push button caps. I like being able to take them off when I clean the gun, and I hate wires.
Link Posted: 10/26/2003 2:55:02 AM EST
Link Posted: 10/26/2003 3:39:05 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/26/2003 10:12:13 AM EST by Matt_B]
Originally Posted By Lumpy196: Surefire 962 9v or 952 6v.
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How about the 962 [b]AND[/b] the 952. [:)]
The 962 if you want a beam with some reach for outdoor use, 952 if indoor is your primary application. I like them with throw lever mounts and push button caps. I like being able to take them off when I clean the gun, and I hate wires.
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I'm agree with Lumpy on this one. I've actually got (2) M-900A's right now that I'm in the process of replacing with 972's, 962's and 952's. The M-900A is nice but 9V lights can be way too bright in doors, especially when the light reflects off of a light colored wall (not too many people paint their walls black). I prefer not to have wires exposed (though there are exceptions to that rule - see below) and I like to take off lights when I clean as well (gotta love ARMS mounts). I also agree with you whywork40. I used to think having the light and vert grip in one unit would be nice and now I'm starting to see it's not. The vert grip on the M-900 is a bit too long for my tastes and while the M-900A is very sturdy, I'd bet the Dieter CQD vert grip is even better. My plan for weapons lights is: - My HK-94A3 will get a 952SU04 with vert grip. The 952C is too long to use with this short carbine. - My 16" bbl AR will get a 952C and 962C so I can have lights for indoors and outdoors. Also, I'm going to replace the KAC vert grip with a Dieter. - My 20" bbl AR is a bit up in the air right now. That one will probably get a 972 but I haven't decided on a what configuration. The M-900A is a really well made, well thought out light but it's just not for me. Once I get all my lights squared away, they're going to the EE. C4iGrant hit the nail on the head - shock isolation is key to any good weapon light. I would never stake my life on a 6P mounted as a weapon light. Plenty of people have tried and had less than stellar results. On the other hand, quite a few people have tried the Surefire G2 and it's worked out well for them. But me, I always buy gear as if my life depends on it (since someday it might) and I hate screwing around with stuff. I like to buy something that will be reliable and durable and be done with it. Hope that helps.
Link Posted: 10/26/2003 4:20:14 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/26/2003 4:58:53 AM EST by bsbg]
Good points made already, so I won't repeat them. A dedicated Surefire weaponlight is your best option. They are expensive, but worth it in terms of design, durability and performance. The 962 and 972 (Turbo Head) are my favorites. With an Aimpoint I do not find the standard 9v 962 too bright indoors, and very useful outdoors. The 972 concentrates the light into a tighter hot spot and gives you additional range outdoors. This may not be the best indoor light though. I think a 972 or M900 AB and the 6v 952 with a pushbutton is the ultimate setup. But now we are talking two lights on one gun instead of on light for two... I say get a 962. Try both the tape switch and the pushbutton and see which you like better. Here are a 972, 962 and 952 together: [img]http://photos.ar15.com/WS_Content/ImageGallery/Attachments/DownloadAttach.asp?sAccountUnq=6430&iGalleryUnq=457&iImageUnq=19115[/img] M900 and 952 on a RAS: [img]http://photos.ar15.com/WS_Content/ImageGallery/Attachments/DownloadAttach.asp?sAccountUnq=6430&iGalleryUnq=457&iImageUnq=19116[/img]
Link Posted: 10/26/2003 4:51:19 AM EST
I don't like remote presure switches with wires. Snag prone and another possible failure point. I'd avoid them in favor of the tail button that comes with the light.
Link Posted: 10/27/2003 1:21:40 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/27/2003 1:24:22 PM EST by vandal]
C4iGrant hit the nail on the head - shock isolation is key to any good weapon light.
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I wonder how Surefire's new LED line will affect this decisionmaking process. [url=http://www.surefire.com/surefire/content/popup.html]http://www.surefire.com/surefire/content/popup.html[/url] [url=http://www.pk-engineering.com/KLx.jpg]http://www.pk-engineering.com/KLx.jpg[/url] The LED lights don't need shock isolation. But the bezels are BIG!
Link Posted: 10/27/2003 1:34:18 PM EST
What position are you guys mounting your pushcap rigs? Is the thumb option better 3oclock or 9oclock. I don't like the knuckle 6 oclock thing.
Link Posted: 10/27/2003 3:05:11 PM EST
Link Posted: 10/27/2003 3:14:13 PM EST
Link Posted: 10/27/2003 7:54:36 PM EST
Adding on Flynavy's question - Lets say you want to use a light mounted on 3 o'clock position without the vertical grip, and you are right handed. Is it possible to activate the tailcap switch using your finger? (not the thumb). More specifically, can you easily activate the tailcap switch of the light system using your LEFT hand finger while your palm grabs the handguard?
Link Posted: 10/27/2003 9:20:26 PM EST
For now I will hold off on saying that that even the P60/P61 based lights will out perform the 5w LED because the new X200 is a 9v system which will have some added punch but I firmly believe it will be very hard for the X200 to match the P60's performance at longer distances.
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I thought the X200 was a 6V system and had similar performance to the L4. I was unaware there was a 9V LED system available at this time.
Link Posted: 10/28/2003 5:26:26 AM EST
Link Posted: 10/28/2003 7:12:58 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/28/2003 7:16:00 AM EST by blikbok]
Matt_B: Have you tried the beamshaper on the M900? I have them on all my lights, from the KL1 up. It spreads out the beam and makes it much less intense and more useful at close range. With the tip-off models, a finger-flick and it's out of the way. The KL5 5w bezel should fit the 9v classic light body and run on 9v, and the KL6 bezel will fit the M3 and Millenium lights and run on 9v. The LED probably won't be any brighter, but should instead have a longer runtime. The KL1 runs on 3-9v. It's brighter on 6v or 9v than 3v, but the runtime on 9v is a little over 50% longer than 6v, and 6v runs almost 3 times longer than 3v (~4 hours vs. 1+ hours) The G2 is a nice little light, and with a Z32 shock-isolated bezel or M2 Millenium bezel, it's very, very, rugged.
Link Posted: 10/28/2003 9:04:18 AM EST
Link Posted: 10/28/2003 9:11:05 AM EST
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