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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 11/4/2003 12:39:11 AM EST
I am considering finishing the outside of my M1A with Perma Slik G. Once it is air cured or even baked, can it be effected by cleaning solvents? Your thoughts are needed.
Link Posted: 11/4/2003 12:48:23 AM EST
Why would you want to make your M1A silvery?
Link Posted: 11/5/2003 10:55:55 PM EST
cuz silver is pretty. I'd like to see that if you go through with it.
Link Posted: 11/6/2003 1:49:00 AM EST
I am only going to do it if Perma Slik G is chemical proof.
Link Posted: 11/6/2003 7:28:13 AM EST
Originally Posted By AtlantaFireman: I am only going to do it if Perma Slik G is chemical proof.
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It's definately not chemical proof. Get you a good bake-on gunkote style of finish.
Link Posted: 11/6/2003 9:05:01 AM EST
By AtlantaFireman: I am considering finishing the outside of my M1A with Perma Slik G.
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The magazine, or the rifle itself? (It's a magazine forum so I assume the mag, but if I wanted to know about using perma slik on a rifle I would probably post in this forum as well) I've never used Perma Slik but from Lumpy196's post I'm under the impression that it's the same results as Hoppe's Moly coat. (Finish turns to a silver after applied.) I hosed down two of my Glock slides with Hoppe's moly coat but it transfered onto my clothing and didn't end up looking good for long. On the other end, I have used Hoppes Moly to refinish a couple of home converted AR10 mags. The Hoppe's works fine on the mags, costs about $8-9 a can. I would assume the Perma Slik works as well if not superior from the reports on this site. Harsh solvents, such as BC "Gunscrubber" will take it right off slicker than snot, Breakfree CLP will as well with a bit of rubbing. When needed, I just use warm water to clean my mags with the moly coat. Very little gunk will stick to the moly finish. Sly
Link Posted: 11/6/2003 9:23:56 AM EST
That does it for me. I am sticking with flat gray Gun Kote, like my other M1A rifles.
Link Posted: 11/6/2003 2:30:59 PM EST
Why would anyone paint a rifle? The Parker Process was invented for this purpose circa 1917. -- Chuck
Link Posted: 11/6/2003 4:48:05 PM EST
Paint? Epoxy paint and bake-on paint will not come off the rifle unless mechanically blasted. Parkerizing is good, but the steel will still rust: painted surfaces don't rust because water cannot get through it. Parkerizing also costs $$$. I can apply paint better than most. To each his own.
Link Posted: 11/6/2003 5:08:13 PM EST
Parkerizing the entire rifle to a uniform color shouldn't be more than $75 or so and, as we know, is extremely durable. Have it all done, including the buttplate, trigger guard, etc. and the rifle will look new. I'd not buy a rifle like this with a [i]strange[/i] finish, but I doubt you're selling anyway. [;)] -- Chuck
Link Posted: 11/8/2003 3:01:41 AM EST
brownells had some great gun finishes.
Link Posted: 11/8/2003 3:04:59 AM EST
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/Store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1117&title=ALUMA-HYDE+II aluma hyde 2.
Link Posted: 11/10/2003 8:42:39 AM EST
Link Posted: 11/10/2003 11:31:08 AM EST
I did an Olympic arms receiver and barrel with Brownells BLACK BAKING LACQUER and it turned out bettr then their factory finish...Great Stuff used an air brush and bake..
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