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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 5/17/2003 2:14:11 PM EST
Ok...after a day at the range and firing 6 different weapons I have decided to get a parts tank

I was looking at a 3.5gallon washer and using Brownell's TANK SOLVENT in it. Anyone every used this stuff on AR's??

(No need to make hot...just copy/paste if you need details)
Link Posted: 5/18/2003 10:20:34 AM EST
I haven't used the cleaner that you listed but I used to use regular naptha. It's the kind that mechanics use to clean engine parts. It's good, cheap, and works well. A lot of cleaners out there use water as a base. Not what I'd want to use on my weapons!
Link Posted: 5/18/2003 7:50:05 PM EST
I've used solvent tanks a lot. Use chemical gloves, be sure to get all of the solvent off because it breaks down grease and lube later on if it's not all gone. If you have the GI type extractor spring with the little rubber thingy inside, take it out first. The solvent can eat it up, dittos with the rubber stop on the buffer. Me personally I'd only use it on the bolt and bolt carrier if you're not in the Army and due for an IG inspection. They're just the thing for M-60's though. Only way you can get those things clean.
Link Posted: 5/19/2003 10:23:20 PM EST
[Last Edit: 5/19/2003 10:24:43 PM EST by shineit]
You should checkout and try the Slip 2000 product "725 Cleaner/Degreaser. Cuts oil and carbon like theres no tomorrow. You can e-mail info@slip2000.com, and tell them what your using it for and they will send you a free sample to try out. There Slip 2000 Gun Lube is one of the best CLPs out there. Again, they send out samples to try. They sell there 3.5 gallon parts washers to Law Enforcement types for $85.00 and that includes there concentrate cleaner that makes 4 gallons of cleaner for the parts washer. Stuff works great. www.slip2000.com
Link Posted: 5/20/2003 7:38:43 PM EST
I’ve used it on Sigs (but not AR’s) where I used to work with no problems. However, I always totally stripped them. I’d be real reluctant to use this on a firearm that’s only been field stripped. Personally, I don’t see the set-up you’re talking about for cleaning at the end of every range day. Rather, I see it as something you use on a firearm maybe once a year. I don’t guess I need to tell you it’s expensive!! [:D]
Link Posted: 5/21/2003 1:37:59 AM EST
I'm looking at the Slip2000 website..they have a package deal and some samples on the way to me thanks to shineit's tip [:D] I'll report back once I get the stuff in and give it a try. I am just trying to track something down that will make soaking/cleaning 5-8guns a bit easier at the end of the day. This is pretty common thru most of the summer. Thanks for all the responses, Guys!! Rob
Link Posted: 5/21/2003 11:29:23 AM EST
I use Ed's Red as a general soaking solution for the parts bin cleaner, and dump the AR in it to soak for an hour or so after each shooting session. I do need something a bit tougher though, for severe carbon buildup, and am looking for the right product to try out. I have used the Slip 2000 for a bit, but it doesnt seem to cut the crud as good as Ed's Red does. If the darn AR/M16 wasnt such a dirty animal to deal with after shooting, I'd be a lot happier, but I guess its the nature of the beast......
Link Posted: 5/21/2003 5:03:48 PM EST
I believe Ed’s Red has acetone in it, which should make it pretty effective as a solvent, but raises other issues as far as flammability and such. I admit I’ve never used it. I’ve also used an ultrasonic cleaner on handguns with mixed results. It just doesn’t get the carbon either. And of course one big enough for a long gun is horrendously expensive!! Thus far, the [b]only[/b] thing I’ve found to get caked-on carbon off is old-fashioned manual scrubbing.
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