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Posted: 4/24/2006 11:48:51 PM EDT
Updated photo at bottom. After buying parts for almost 6 months, the barrel got here today so I just assembled it tonite. FINALLY! My first build. Olympic Arms Lower Reciver DPMS Parts Kit Rock River Arms National Match 2-Stage Trigger Group Right Handed Ergo Grip CAR Stock SOG Armory Pad for CAR Stock Rock River Upper Reciver and Parts Kit Olympic Arms Flip-Up Rear 4 Apature Rear Sight SPOT Red-Dot Wilson Stainless 16" Mid-Length Heavy Barrel, 1:8, Fluted and Coated by ADCO JP Enterprises Mid-Length Hand Guard YHM Front Sight Block SOG Vortex Flash Hider I've got an M-9 Sawback for it as well but a friend of mine has it for some finishing work. After everything I've decided that the CAR stock is to light so I'm going to order an Ace SOCOM. A friend has one and I like it. Also I need to get a tac-light for it. Either way, going to the range this weekend to see how it does. |
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Ok, I couldn't take it anymore so I took the afternoon off... Went through about 90 rounds in total today, not a single FTF/FTE. Less recoil than my buddy's heavier Bushmaster and no muzzle flash (I was at an indoor range). That stock has got to go, but I've got the Ace on the way. Now my only problem is I can't stop grinning. |
| Yeah, I like the JP now that it's on. It was a pain in the butt to install though. The instructions tell you to red loctite the barrel cup to the upper and then, only after it's fully set up to install the barrel and nut. I didn't think attaching the cup with red loctite was to good of an idea, in case I wanted to remove it later, so I used RTV. That, unfortunately didn't hold up through the install process so I wound up having to use the nut and cup as a jam nut setup, which was not very easy to time just right for the gas tube. But I pulled it off. On the bright side, the special finish they claim is heat resistant really is. The handguard got hot, but I could still hang on with minor discomfort, even when the barrel got to hot to touch (I wanted to make sure the group didn't walk because of the flute job). |
Ask, and you shall recive... The handguard is symetrical, side to side. The bottom has a hole, a slot, and another hole. The holes are threaded to accept the sling swivel/bipod studs, 2 of which come with the handguard. There are special brackets for backing studs or rails that mount through the slots, but basically, you can mount either the rail or the stud anywhere along the slot. The top has 4 holes for mounting a full length rail, though only rifle and carbine lengths are available right now. It also comes with tiny setscrews which are supposed to act as plugs for the top holes if you don't mount the rail. I didn't install them on mine.  Closeup of the barrel cup. The cup threads onto the upper all the way, then back off untill the gas tube hole lines up. The barrel nut threads into the cup with a different pitch thread, much finer than the cup/upper.  You can't feel the difference in texture or height of the V-Tac logo compared to the rest of the grip finish.  A higher view of the barrel cup and the tube. The end of the tube is smooth finished and not heat resistant. This and the cup get hot with the barrel.  The heat resistant textured coating also covers the inside of the tube. It's comprable in feel to a grip tape, though slightly coarser and less aggressive. |
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sylwesterski, that two-tone looks great. I just might have to borrow that idea from you, if you don't mind. Did the OEM finish present any problems with the duracote? No special pre-painting requirements? ToeBall, pics are phenomenal. Thanks a bunch for taking the time. I think you have sold me on the idea....now I just need to get a new bbl and reciever to put one on! I love BRD!!! |
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ToeBall, How is that Spot working for you?
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| I can't complain about the SPOT. Hard to beat for the money. It made sighting very easy. Just use the irons for 1 shot. Then use your irons as a point of referance on you point of aim and adjust the dot to the point of impact. Then adjust the irons to match. Well, ok, 1 complaint, the mount has to be tightened with tools. If it's hand tight the mount works loose quickly. Makes pulling the dot off to install a scope not quite tool free. I've only got about 300 rounds through the rifle but even so managed to try using the SPOT all the way out to 200 yards. It's not to bad. I managed to chase a 2 litre bottle with it. Buddy of mine tried it and managed to squeeze a 1 minute 5 shot group out of it with M855 ammo. Would have been about 1.5" at 200 but for 1 flyer. Also managed to weigh it more acuratley using my brother and a medical scale, it's 5.75 lbs unloaded. |
Yes my current build (Which should be done today  ) will have a fluted DPMS FF tube. They are nice looking!I would leave the sling loop on it. Its effect on point of impact would be virtually nil, and it's nice to have in case you ever want to carry the rifle afield for any length of time. ETA: I gotta read slower. You were talking about fluted barrels... my bad... I got one of those too though! 24" fluted stainless hogleg... he he
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It's a Wilson stainless barrel from ADCO. I had them flute it and black coat it before shipping. I was told by a gun smith that fluting can cause the barrel to heat walk during rapid fire if it's not done just right. Well, this one is just right. |
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