Which one is the biggest snake oil product and why?

The only one that is "snake oil" is Militec. All the other are real quality oils/products that have been extensively tested and proven especially BF.

BF CLP is no snake oil and Miltec is the worst snake oil out there. The others in the list fall inbetween the two. All are much clower to BF than Miltec.

I'm not impressed with FP-10 as anything but a lubricant.  People claim it is a CLP all in one type product but IME is doesnt even loosen carbon fouling on the bolt cam pin. It is a good lube though.

Part of the problem is "Firepower FP-10" and "Shooters choice FP-10" may have two different formulas.

Hoppes #9
Just kiddin.  I have some, I'll prove it.

Quoted: I'm not impressed with FP-10 as anything but a lubricant.  People claim it is a CLP all in one type product but IME is doesnt even loosen carbon fouling on the bolt cam pin. It is a good lube though. Part of the problem is "Firepower FP-10" and "Shooters choice FP-10" may have two different formulas.

f-10 is the same from SC and MCP. Same as TW-25B from millcomm and kleenbore.

Quoted: I'm not impressed with FP-10 as anything but a lubricant.  People claim it is a CLP all in one type product but IME is doesnt even loosen carbon fouling on the bolt cam pin. It is a good lube though. Part of the problem is "Firepower FP-10" and "Shooters choice FP-10" may have two different formulas.

FP-10 is not a bad product but my problem with it is it does not even come close to the hype on it's website. It is better then Militec in every way but I would almost put it in the same class as Militec just because of how much bullshit is on their website. Go check it out, you will want to puke!

Personally, I'm a Hoppes #9 guy and than use Break Free CLP to lube after the cleaning.  I use BF on my Sig and it's an outstanding product.  Just recently I got a bottle of TW25b spray and it seems ok.  It sure STINKS!!!  I notice TW25b dries up after a day or so.  It's "supposed" to bond at the micron level and all this other bullshit but I haven't noticed that.  Of course I'm still testing.

I mainly wanted the spray version to "hose down" the trigger group of a 10/22.  Honestly, I'm thinking of using some WD-40 on one of my guns.  I mean what the hell right?  It's a good LUBE.

WD-40 is a parts flush and frozen bolt loosener, not a lube. If you want to hose items down and use a light lube try Rem Oil or G96, med weight BF CLP, fp-10.

I voted Break Free.  

I tried this stuff 15 years ago because it was supposed to be the best stuff out there.  I think I lubed one or two guns with it and stopped.  

It evaporates way to quickly.   BF is less than 40% solids so most of what comes out of the bottle is solvent which goes into the air.  Most of the Teflon that is in the product will quickly fall out of suspension and settle at the bottom of the container (the Maryland AR15 site even advises to put a ball bearing in the container to mix the Teflon back in solvent, but once the Teflon clumps together, to late).  If you put enough on so that it won't evaporate in a couple of days it turns into sludge, and will collect EVERY piece of debris in the area.

It is however a good protectant as shown by many tests on the web (though it is not the best).

Compare this with modern chemicals like FP-10 (I live in a dessert and have no problems with evaporation, and is a good cleaner), Corrosion X (over 90% solids, polar bonds to metal, superior protectant), and Eezox (my personal favorite: dry film (its SUPPOSED to evaporate) , non-flammable, almost rust proof, heavier that water, total synthetic, and debris wipes right off).  There is no comparison

You CLP guys can keep it.

[Stepping off soap box]  

Quoted: WD-40 is a parts flush and frozen bolt loosener, not a lube. If you want to hose items down and use a light lube try Rem Oil or G96, med weight BF CLP, fp-10.

WD-40 most certainly is a lubricant.

Quoted: Quoted: WD-40 is a parts flush and frozen bolt loosener, not a lube. If you want to hose items down and use a light lube try Rem Oil or G96, med weight BF CLP, fp-10. WD-40 most certainly is a lubricant.

if you spray WD-40 on anything with plastic or rubber, it'll fuck it up.  I used to be big into BMX and wd-40 is how we got our grips on our handle bars.  Spray the shit out of it, slide it right on, 10 minutes later it would be so gummed up you'd have to cut the grip off.

WD-40 is a penetrating oil (P E N E T R A T I N G)as in contaminated primers and powder!

and water is a lube as well, but i still dont use it on my rifles.

Quoted: Quoted: I'm not impressed with FP-10 as anything but a lubricant.  People claim it is a CLP all in one type product but IME is doesnt even loosen carbon fouling on the bolt cam pin. It is a good lube though. Part of the problem is "Firepower FP-10" and "Shooters choice FP-10" may have two different formulas. f-10 is the same from SC and MCP.

Are you sure?

I have seen claims that Shooters Choice FP-10 is a lube only, and Firepower FP-10 is a CLP.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I'm not impressed with FP-10 as anything but a lubricant.  People claim it is a CLP all in one type product but IME is doesnt even loosen carbon fouling on the bolt cam pin. It is a good lube though. Part of the problem is "Firepower FP-10" and "Shooters choice FP-10" may have two different formulas. f-10 is the same from SC and MCP. Are you sure? I have seen claims that Shooters Choice FP-10 is a lube only, and Firepower FP-10 is a CLP.

Yeap,its a fact.
www.fp10.com/MPC-SC.htm

yeah i am sure

sc page

and here from g96

Canada Ballistics Laboratory

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I'm not impressed with FP-10 as anything but a lubricant.  People claim it is a CLP all in one type product but IME is doesnt even loosen carbon fouling on the bolt cam pin. It is a good lube though. Part of the problem is "Firepower FP-10" and "Shooters choice FP-10" may have two different formulas. f-10 is the same from SC and MCP. Are you sure? I have seen claims that Shooters Choice FP-10 is a lube only, and Firepower FP-10 is a CLP. Yeap,its a fact. www.fp10.com/MPC-SC.htm

Thanks for clearing that up.  All i can say in response is they are sniffing too much of thier product if they think is an acceptable cleaner.  I tried to clean an M4 last week with FP-10 and it doesn even lossen fouling on the bolt cam pin or bolt tail.  Not even as good as Breakfree CLP and Breakfree is an overrated jack of all trades, master of none.

FP-10 also lacks corrosion protection based on my own test findings. Some of the ARFCOM members will argue this but I tried it several times and came to the same conclusion: FP-10 does not have the same corrosion protection capabilities as BF CLP.

Metroplex:  I'm interested in your corrosion testing.  Do you have anything you can post or link to?  Thanks.

I have never been impressed with CLP.  Personally I like hoppe's #9, and then use Remoil for a lube.  If you only use one gun oil/cleaning product, then you will always have more trouble with each of its functions, than if you use two different specific purpose.  Hoppes #9 for cleaning, remoil for lube.  Never failed me.

Quoted: Quoted: WD-40 is a parts flush and frozen bolt loosener, not a lube. If you want to hose items down and use a light lube try Rem Oil or G96, med weight BF CLP, fp-10. WD-40 most certainly is a lubricant.

Thanks to WD40 I got a real good deal on a Remington 870, the guy used WD40 to lube it. He told me that it would shoot fine for a day after he sprayed it then it would lock up and ftf. Gave him 100 bucks for it, took it home and had to soak all the internal parts in kerosene for a day then boil in water to remove the buildup.
Lubed up with clp and the damn thing shoots perfect. The WD40 had actually turned to a gummy varnish. It makes a good long term preservative but not a good lube for guns.

Quoted: I have never been impressed with CLP.  Personally I like hoppe's #9, and then use Remoil for a lube.  If you only use one gun oil/cleaning product, then you will always have more trouble with each of its functions, than if you use two different specific purpose.  Hoppes #9 for cleaning, remoil for lube.  Never failed me.

Yeah, Break Free CLP is really overhyped. It's overhyped by the military and the government seeing how with the recent Amendment 7 of 63460 (Oct 2005), BF CLP is on the QPL for Type I (General CLP) AND Type II (EXTREME DESERT ENVIRONMENT) usage, while other CLPs are only Type I.

Wait, where is Slip 2000 CLP/Mil-x, militec-1, FP-10, etc... ?

Every thing I ever sprayed with wd40 rusted if i did not coat with a different oil or grease.  I think back to childhood days spraying wd40 on bike chains and wondering why they were rusted by moring.

CLP is a do all, works great at rust prevention will hold its own in anti wear and is a soso cleaner.

I carry it in my hunting and range bags for the simple reason it is a 3 in 1,

I rather use fp-10 for my uses. it does not prevent rust as well as bf,  it cleans  the same as bf  and I from what i have seen it a better lube than bf.

When I am going to detail clean a rifle I reach for Butches bore shine or SC extream clean. Butch is way better on copper removal. Hell hoppes is a better cleaner than any clp on the market.

Quoted: Quoted: I have never been impressed with CLP.  Personally I like hoppe's #9, and then use Remoil for a lube.  If you only use one gun oil/cleaning product, then you will always have more trouble with each of its functions, than if you use two different specific purpose.  Hoppes #9 for cleaning, remoil for lube.  Never failed me. Yeah, Break Free CLP is really overhyped. It's overhyped by the military and the government seeing how with the recent Amendment 7 of 63460 (Oct 2005), BF CLP is on the QPL for Type I (General CLP) AND Type II (EXTREME DESERT ENVIRONMENT) usage, while other CLPs are only Type I. Wait, where is Slip 2000 CLP/Mil-x, militec-1, FP-10, etc... ?

Slip2000 is not on it yet because it is still in the testing phase. Their website is updated regularly and Slip is still at Aberdean. Frm what tests have been done it has passed so far.

WD-40

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I have never been impressed with CLP.  Personally I like hoppe's #9, and then use Remoil for a lube.  If you only use one gun oil/cleaning product, then you will always have more trouble with each of its functions, than if you use two different specific purpose.  Hoppes #9 for cleaning, remoil for lube.  Never failed me. Yeah, Break Free CLP is really overhyped. It's overhyped by the military and the government seeing how with the recent Amendment 7 of 63460 (Oct 2005), BF CLP is on the QPL for Type I (General CLP) AND Type II (EXTREME DESERT ENVIRONMENT) usage, while other CLPs are only Type I. Wait, where is Slip 2000 CLP/Mil-x, militec-1, FP-10, etc... ? Slip2000 is not on it yet because it is still in the testing phase. Their website is updated regularly and Slip is still at Aberdean. Frm what tests have been done it has passed so far.

Slip 2000 General Purpose Gun Lube has been out for quite some time.
Their MIL-X looks promising but until they make it available to the general public, it's vaporware.

I know this post is old, but I cant believe ppl still think WD40 is a lube.

W= water, D= Displacement.  

WD-40 literally stands for Water Displacement, 40th attempt. That's the name straight out of the lab book used by the chemist who developed WD-40 back in 1953. The chemist, Norm Larsen, was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion—a task which is done by displacing water. Norm's persistence paid off when he perfected the formula on his 40th try.

The corrosion and rust protection ingredients remain adhered to the surface. External conditions may, of course, require additional applications of WD-40 for maximum protection.

WD-40 fulfills five basic functions:

CLEANS:  WD-40 gets under dirt, grime and grease to clean. It also dissolves adhesives, allowing easy removal of labels, tape and excess bonding material.
DISPLACES MOISTURE:  Because WD-40 displaces moisture, it quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits.
PENETRATES:  WD-40 loosens rust-to-metal bonds and frees stuck, frozen or rusted metal parts.
LUBRICATES:  WD-40's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and tenaciously held to all moving parts.
PROTECTS:  WD-40 protects metal surfaces with corrosion-resistant ingredients to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements.


When it says "Lubricate" just remember that its only a lube when its wet.  After it drys, (20 minutes or less) it is a hard sticky coating that BONDS the two parts together in an attempt to do what is was made for....stopping water.

NEVER USE WD40 on a firearm, there is no need for it.

Why does WD-40 dry up?  What's in that hydrocarbon mix that somehow makes it dry to a gummy residue when every other oil stays nice and juicy, hmmm, Militec, bonds "molecularly" to the steel?  Such tripe...

I love CLP.
I would never put WD40 on a weapon.

(good poll)

I am done with looking for a single solvent, cleaner and lube compound.  None of them do everything well.  Right now I use Butch's Bore Shine to clean and FP-10 (often applied with a Q-Tip) to lube.  All has been clear sailing since then.

Here's an easy to understand article about WD-40:
TheGunZone
Here is the WD-40 MSDS (hey, you might as well know what you're breathing and getting on your hands):
WD 40 MSDS

I have used WD40 on all kinds of stuff, and in my experience, for rust prevention, it must be reapplied every couple of weeks or so, more often if the item I'm trying to protect is in a wet area/climate.  It is not a good long term rust preventitive, it is an OK penetrating oil, and it does free up most sticking or gummy stuff.  It will eventually become a little gummy in a dry area/climate, but you can spray that off with a little shot of, you guessed it, WD 40!  It's not magic, nothing is, but it's pretty cheap at Costco in a box of three large aerosol cans.

My opinions are worth less than you paid for them, though.

Militec-1 is a great lube, but doesn't perform when it comes to rust protection.


just my experience with it.  Unfortunately, I've got a big bottle of it at home I bought from an FFL friend of mine.  A huge bottle...

everytime you change your oil in your car/truck add 1 fl oz of miltec per quart of engine oil. It what miltec is designed for.

what are peoples opinion with TW-25B?  I used a sample of it and thought it spreads well and actually not smelling like its killing brain cells..

But the more I look for it on the shelves/ internet, I see that its expensive ($6 for .75oz) and not very popular.

from the very first post it rated as the "least hyped" product

it is well worth the money. you do not need a lot of tw-25b for it to work.  I generally only use it on my M1A and my STI 40 cal.

Quoted: everytime you change your oil in your car/truck add 1 fl oz of miltec per quart of engine oil. It what miltec is designed for.

Hmmmm.  I, too, have TWO bottles of miltec-1 that I bot before finding out about MT1 here.  I guess that use is as good as any.  ;)

Quoted: what are peoples opinion with TW-25B?  I used a sample of it and thought it spreads well and actually not smelling like its killing brain cells.. But the more I look for it on the shelves/ internet, I see that its expensive ($6 for .75oz) and not very popular. from the very first post it rated as the "least hyped" product

I absolutely love the Mil-comm.There is no hype with the Mil-comm...or its advertising as far I can see.
Pretty straight foward product...although some might say its old technology,it works plain and simple.
Its by far the longest lasting and slickest lube I have used to date.
Cleaning basically involves wiping the fouling off with a cloth in most instances.Funk just does not stick to the parts treated with TW-25B.
As far as the price goes...a 1.5oz tube of tw-25B will last for months if applied per Mil-comm's recommendations on say pistols.Rifles use a bit more and I prefer the EP spray for that.The Mil-comm MC-2500 oil makes a excellent companion for the TW-25B.So get both.
I buy direct from Mil-comm,mainly due to tyhe fact the prices are much better and I like to buy in bulk(4oz. and larger containers).
Go to the Mil-comm site and check the price on say the 4oz. tube of Mil-comm TW-25B.
www.mil-comm.com/
The MC-3000 semi-fluid is killer too...so eye ball that as well.
Download the application instructions from the technical section for reference.There's a pdf for the M16 and the M9.The M9 instructions pretty much covers all pistols.
HTH

Quoted: Quoted: I voted Break Free.   I tried this stuff 15 years ago because it was supposed to be the best stuff out there.  I think I lubed one or two guns with it and stopped.   It evaporates way to quickly.   BF is less than 40% solids so most of what comes out of the bottle is solvent which goes into the air.  Most of the Teflon that is in the product will quickly fall out of suspension and settle at the bottom of the container (the Maryland AR15 site even advises to put a ball bearing in the container to mix the Teflon back in solvent, but once the Teflon clumps together, to late).  If you put enough on so that it won't evaporate in a couple of days it turns into sludge, and will collect EVERY piece of debris in the area. It is however a good protectant as shown by many tests on the web (though it is not the best). Compare this with modern chemicals like FP-10 (I live in a dessert and have no problems with evaporation, and is a good cleaner), Corrosion X (over 90% solids, polar bonds to metal, superior protectant), and Eezox (my personal favorite: dry film (its SUPPOSED to evaporate) , non-flammable, almost rust proof, heavier that water, total synthetic, and debris wipes right off).  There is no comparison You CLP guys can keep it. [Stepping off soap box]   The formulation of modern break free is not the same as the 80's version.

+1

The modern BF CLP is practically unwashable. Just try it. My boresnakes treated with CLP practically repel water even when completely soaked in every surfactant I dumped into the bucket.

WD-40 is 40% kerosene, that's why it does such a good jod cleaning gunk and oil goo. And softening up plastic grips.
Not what my gun needs.

Go to the Mil-comm site and check the price on say the 4oz. tube of Mil-comm TW-25B. www.mil-comm.com/ The MC-3000 semi-fluid is killer too...so eye ball that as well. Download the application instructions from the technical section for reference.There's a pdf for the M16 and the M9.The M9 instructions pretty much covers all pistols. HTH

Thanks, the link on application really help this newbie here!

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I voted Break Free.   I tried this stuff 15 years ago because it was supposed to be the best stuff out there.  I think I lubed one or two guns with it and stopped.   It evaporates way to quickly.   BF is less than 40% solids so most of what comes out of the bottle is solvent which goes into the air.  Most of the Teflon that is in the product will quickly fall out of suspension and settle at the bottom of the container (the Maryland AR15 site even advises to put a ball bearing in the container to mix the Teflon back in solvent, but once the Teflon clumps together, to late).  If you put enough on so that it won't evaporate in a couple of days it turns into sludge, and will collect EVERY piece of debris in the area. It is however a good protectant as shown by many tests on the web (though it is not the best). Compare this with modern chemicals like FP-10 (I live in a dessert and have no problems with evaporation, and is a good cleaner), Corrosion X (over 90% solids, polar bonds to metal, superior protectant), and Eezox (my personal favorite: dry film (its SUPPOSED to evaporate) , non-flammable, almost rust proof, heavier that water, total synthetic, and debris wipes right off).  There is no comparison You CLP guys can keep it. [Stepping off soap box]   The formulation of modern break free is not the same as the 80's version. +1 The modern BF CLP is practically unwashable. Just try it. My boresnakes treated with CLP practically repel water even when completely soaked in every surfactant I dumped into the bucket.

If they have changed the formula, good for them.  They needed too.

As I stated in my first post: CLP is a very good corrosion protectant.  However, it has been shown over and over again that Eezox is simply the best protectant out there.  It also makes the actions on my guns feel like they are on bearings.  No liquid based product has come close.  And because all surfaces of the gun are coated with a solid, lubricating barrier, there is nothing for the dirt to stick too, making cleanup a snap.

I'll still stick with Eezox.  Eezox FAQ
                                          Eezox Gun Care

Quoted: However, it has been shown over and over again that Eezox is simply the best protectant out there.  It also makes the actions on my guns feel like they are on bearings.  No liquid based product has come close.  And because all surfaces of the gun are coated with a solid, lubricating barrier, there is nothing for the dirt to stick too, making cleanup a snap. I'll still stick with Eezox.

After using everything under the sun I've been using EEZOX for the last , oh about 6 years exclusively and it is everything it's advertised as.  Great stuff!  Smells decent too!

I don't know how members "rate" a particular lubricant.  Many lubrication producing firms provide results of extensive testing of their products and have a theory about firearms lubrication theory.  One conclusion that I cannot dispute is that one must clean and lubricate a firearm/s.  I have used most every major lubricant known and available.  I did some degree of research and spoken with many firearms cleaning/lubricant product manufacturers.  I gained much insight into the major points made on the basis of company testing, troop evaulations and overall use in the field.  One particluar event that I cannot overlook was an icident in the past.  This occured when I did happen get sick inhaling one particular brand of gun lubricant while being exposed to the vapors for many hours of exposure in a police station during my employment as a tactical team member.  I required hospitalization and this particluar product was mixed with a volitle cleaning solvent intending to create a "CLP" when bottled and happened to evaporate fairly fast.  The lubricant was changed in the early 1990s and is a bit more enviornmental safe or so I am told.  Rust prevention is best accomplished by a specific product designed specifically for that particular purpose.  I do use CorrosionX for long term rust prevention and this product is expressly designed for such.  The only product I use exclusively for firearms lubrication (AR15 no exception) is in fact FP10.  I have talked to the designer of FP10 extensively and reviewed the information that his company put forth.  I have tested FP10 on many firearms with stunning results on retarding wear, improving lubricity and overall friendly enviromental qualities.  FP10 won hands down.  I believe I used well over a dozen firearms products and found FP10 came out ahead.  Everyone has a particluar opinion on the subject of gun cleaning and weapons lubrication.  I know my firearms are well protected when lubricated by FP10.  The lack of wear on my 1911 barrel hood is a very stark example of how effective FP10 really is.  The fact that FP10 has never affected me physically is a good example of FP10 mild smelling and well designed firearms product.  CarrierKey  

Quoted: I don't know how members "rate" a particular lubricant.  Many lubrication producing firms provide results of extensive testing of their products and have a theory about firearms lubrication theory.  One conclusion that I cannot dispute is that one must clean and lubricate a firearm/s.  I have used most every major lubricant known and available.  I did some degree of research and spoken with many firearms cleaning/lubricant product manufacturers.  I gained much insight into the major points made on the basis of company testing, troop evaulations and overall use in the field.  One particluar event that I cannot overlook was an icident in the past.  This occured when I did happen get sick inhaling one particular brand of gun lubricant while being exposed to the vapors for many hours of exposure in a police station during my employment as a tactical team member.  I required hospitalization and this particluar product was mixed with a volitle cleaning solvent intending to create a "CLP" when bottled and happened to evaporate fairly fast.  The lubricant was changed in the early 1990s and is a bit more enviornmental safe or so I am told.  Rust prevention is best accomplished by a specific product designed specifically for that particular purpose.  I do use CorrosionX for long term rust prevention and this product is expressly designed for such.  The only product I use exclusively for firearms lubrication (AR15 no exception) is in fact FP10.  I have talked to the designer of FP10 extensively and reviewed the information that his company put forth.  I have tested FP10 on many firearms with stunning results on retarding wear, improving lubricity and overall friendly enviromental qualities.  FP10 won hands down.  I believe I used well over a dozen firearms products and found FP10 came out ahead.  Everyone has a particluar opinion on the subject of gun cleaning and weapons lubrication.  I know my firearms are well protected when lubricated by FP10.  The lack of wear on my 1911 barrel hood is a very stark example of how effective FP10 really is.  The fact that FP10 has never affected me physically is a good example of FP10 mild smelling and well designed firearms product.  CarrierKey

After I saw 1st hand several times how poorly FP-10 did with preventing rust I stopped using it. I felt let down because I truly believed that FP-10 was the absolute best oil. I did a little more digging and found that FP-10 was just another massively hypped product like the next.

I've had better luck with Mobil 1 than I have had with Militec.

Quoted: After I saw 1st hand several times how poorly FP-10 did with preventing rust I stopped using it. I felt let down because I truly believed that FP-10 was the absolute best oil. I did a little more digging and found that FP-10 was just another massively hypped product like the next.

Agree 100%

Break Free CLP...

Cleaner - Not the best but does an ok job. One of the last things I would use for this.
Lubricant - Terrible lubricant - Attracts carbon - Carbon cakes on and can seize parts.
Protectant - Does a great job protecting from rust.

I use Mil-Tec on my bolts and areas of high carbon exposure. It seems to do a great job keeping the carbon off. It works better after repeat use. However Mil-Tec is a lubricant and does not claim to clean or prevent rust like some people were complaining about.  I have always used it only for lubrication and never expected any more out of it.

I use CLP for rust prevention only. Exterior of the rifle only. I will coat everything else and the bore if the rifle is going into storage more than a couple of weeks.

Hoppes 9 or any similar harsh smelling type solvents are good for cleaning bores followed by dry patches then CLP.

I just used blue wonder on a Mauser with a rusted bore. It came out mirror clean with exception of the massive pitting. I tried Hoppes 9 for hours with little rusult but the blue wonder did a great job in less than an hour of thourough cleaning. I would imagine it would work great on any bore that you haven't seen the chrome lining in awhile.

SC FP-10 - Just bought some yesterday. Sounds like I'll be testing it as a lubricant only to see if it repels carbon as good as Mil-Tec.