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Posted: 11/1/2009 9:54:17 AM EST
[Last Edit: 11/1/2009 10:12:54 AM EST by MrLongbaugh]
To start with: Yes, I read the "Trigger/Fire Control Groups tested and evaluated - the "BEST" trigger for you???" post.
My question is, are the module triggers suitable for serious use or are they only for competition/light use rifles? Are they sensitive to dirt, dust, mud, and being submerged?

Background: I am muilding a POF SBR and am trying to decide on trigger. I took a RRA National Match trigger equiped rifle through both basic and advanced SWAT school. No problems. I am not worried about light trigger pull, rifle is on safe unless engaging a threat and finger is off trigger until it is time to stop the threat. I would prefer approximately 4 pounds.

My tenative choice for a Module trigger is the Timney 4# AR10 (for positive primer ignition).

If you have input, please don't telll me to use/avoid a trigger wothout explanation. Also, please expand upon how you came up with information; do you have personal experience, know a specific incident, or are you just stating an opinion because you have one?

Thanks in advance
Link Posted: 11/1/2009 10:51:13 AM EST
Had a Timney. Sold it. What I found is.

The mounting pins were not good enough. The trigger pins walked out on me.
You must use KNS pins to be able to trust it.

They are good for pull and reset but I sometimes used mine in a .22 conversion
and the dirty .22 grit would get under the module block and I would have to take it all the way out to clean it.

What a PITA. In the end I wanted something STHF proof and becuase of all this plus the propriatary springs this was not it.

I would get a Giselle or a Bill Springfield worked one.
Link Posted: 11/1/2009 11:18:34 AM EST
[Last Edit: 11/1/2009 11:19:49 AM EST by walli]
I would recommend to go with the Geissele SSA trigger. It is a drop-in trigger but not a trigger module.

The trigger was designed for serious use and not for competition.

I did not use mine hard enough yet, but so far I like it a lot: Very reliable (no problems at all) and very smooth with a clean break. The price is also reasonable.

If you really want or need a drop in module I would have a look at the Wilson Combat trigger. I have no personal experience with this one.
This trigger is also very new but the reviews seems to be very good so far.
Link Posted: 11/1/2009 1:34:06 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/1/2009 1:35:20 PM EST by MrLongbaugh]
That's great information so far. Crowdlg, thanks, I was worried about tham being finicky with reference to crud, but did the trigger malfunction or change in feel, or was it jaust a cleaning issue. If the residue was under the trigger unit, I would think that might actually help perfom the same funtion as the screws...tighten it against the pins. I was leaning away from the module units when I started this, but I would like as much info as possible. I have a friend that is sold on his timney, but he has less rounds through his gun lifetime than I put the week before I screwed up my arm. I intend to get a 22lr conversion as well, so that is certainly a factor.

Thanks for all the info so far.

Does anyone have experience with the Alexander Arms trigger and does it use standard springs etc.?
Link Posted: 11/1/2009 2:14:13 PM EST
The Timney did not malfuction except for the trigger pins coming out.

The crud did go under the block and inside it. It did feel somewhat rougher.

When shooting regular .223/5.56 ammo it was fine but after 2 range trips of .22 ( maybe 400rds) I needed to clean it.
Thats when the it became trouble.

Other AR's I just spray out the lower with brake clean and then let dry. A few drops of CLP and work it in and it's fine.

With the Timney I had to take off the grip and safety lever,Loosen the 2 allen screws in the module and then remove.
Then you have to take apart the module and clean and lube and put it all back. After 2 times of doing that it was not worth it to me.

If you shot just .223/5.56 only and had KNS pins it would be ok.
Still the issue or springs and not being able to get parts in a SHTF situation bothered me.
The Giselle uses standard springs and drops in like any other trigger so that gets my vote.
Also I don't like a 2 stage for a fighting rifle and the Giselle is single.
Link Posted: 11/1/2009 2:32:21 PM EST
I have recently aquired a Wilson combat TR-TTU single stage trigger and have been very impressed so far. Very crisp and light but does not feel like a match trigger.

I have 2 other Wilson weapons a Elite Profesional 1911 and a 14" Border patrol 12 pump. Depended on these 2 for my life for 4 years on the TX Mexico border and 7 years as a gun shop manager in FL they never let me down.
Link Posted: 11/1/2009 5:47:56 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/1/2009 5:48:21 PM EST by Brahmzy]
Originally Posted By Nichonator:
I have recently aquired a Wilson combat TR-TTU single stage trigger and have been very impressed so far. Very crisp and light but does not feel like a match trigger.

I have 2 other Wilson weapons a Elite Profesional 1911 and a 14" Border patrol 12 pump. Depended on these 2 for my life for 4 years on the TX Mexico border and 7 years as a gun shop manager in FL they never let me down.

I was just about to say, I have to say the 2 SS Wilson TTU's are by far the best cambat AR trigger I have ever felt.

NO creep, perfect crisp break and perfect reset. That's it. I see no room for improvement. I have felt most all of the other triggers. The 2 Timney's I have felt (owned one) both had some creep and were not as crisp as the Wilson.

I have felt the Geissele triggers, but I have no desire for a two stage.
Link Posted: 11/3/2009 1:43:50 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/3/2009 1:44:23 PM EST by crowdlg]
They do make Geissele's in single stage.
Link Posted: 11/3/2009 2:34:34 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/3/2009 2:36:45 PM EST by MrLongbaugh]
The more I learn, the confused I become.

First, between two stage and single stage. Is there a significant difference in durability. Geissele appear to make a full auto two stage which would indicate they are confident in durability.

Second, people seem to be happy with thier Wilson TTU triggers, but from what I can tell, it uses softer steel than either the JP or the Timney. I would think that would lead to reduced durability and life span.

Right now I am leaning towards the JP, they come in modular and standard and are single stage, they use s-7 steel on the hammer and A2 for the rest.
I am also interested in the Alexander Arms, mainly because it is a local (Virginia) manufacturer.
Does anyone have experience with JARD. It appears to be offered in a non adjustable setup so there are no screws to come loose.

This will be a work/training rifle, so I want it to be bomb proof, but I do not shy away from new design as long as it works. I don't use iron sights as my primary because they aren't as efficient even though they will last forever and not need batterries. I don't want to be the dead guy holding a rifle that will last forever.

Please keep giving your input and your reasoning.

Thanks to all who have given me input.
Link Posted: 11/3/2009 2:51:45 PM EST
This part here......

"This will be a work/training rifle, so I want it to be bomb proof"

Makes me say you should stick with and train on a good quality factory trigger.

After all that is what is issued to our own troops.
Link Posted: 11/3/2009 4:48:26 PM EST
I understand your point, and durability is the number one concern. However, there are improvements that "our own troops" don't see for a myriad of reasons: price, production capability, refusal of some bureaucrat to believe that a soldier needs a $$$ wing nut that the soldiers before him didn’t need. That goes back to my Iron sights reference. Competitors and civilians were using red dots on mass before the military. Hell, look at the stocks many are issued, there are better that are just as durable if not more so. Yes, red dots are more fragile and the batteries wear out, but I would rather replace certain items than fight with a handicap. When I first trained with a full auto m16 I pulled the trigger, then checked to see if the safety was still engaged, realized it wasn’t and pulled harder. The trigger did not bother me at all in drills. The problem was, I would not want to have to hit the T-zone offhand at 25 yards with that rifle; my rifle, no problem. It may well be that I just need to get a heavier, creepier trigger and get used to it. Maybe after a couple thousand rounds it would seem like second nature. That is the point of this thread and my original question. I am not adverse to the idea; I just want to make my decision with as much information as possible. I am hoping that there is a compromise. A trigger that lasts and is smooth and light enough to give good accuracy. I really appreciate that you are keeping me honest and that you challenge any leaning towards competition at the cost of durability. The truth is (although I hate to admit it) I love gadgets and gear. But, at least in Virginia, they don’t pay cops enough to buy more that one of anything, so I want to get it right the first time. I am continually reading reviews and threads around the net. As I do so, I refine my decision. I have recently been reading a lot of good things about accuracy speaks. I definitely put the most weight on opinions of people like yourself who have tried items and found them lacking. I also started the trigger search hoping for a smoother trigger, but being grounded by the fact that I have read a couple of places that the esteemed Pat Rogers says stick with a factory trigger. Is a RRA two stage a “factory trigger”?

Thank you all and please keep feeding me your personal experiences, especially if you have a trigger that has lasted 15,000 rounds without issue, or if you have one that failed (and why it failed).

p.s. just in case you were wondering crowdlg, the BATFE does not think “Zombies” is an appropriate response to question 4i when applying to make a SBR. At least my reviewer didn’t. Gonna send it back and hope for a different reviewer.
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