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Link Posted: 12/28/2016 11:17:41 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/28/2016 11:20:15 PM EST by FREEFALLE7]
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Originally Posted By K1rodeoboater:

Nope but it's an interesting evolution/spin off from the Modulus jig.
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Originally Posted By K1rodeoboater:
Originally Posted By j3_:
Anyone tried one of these jigs yet?   http://www.5dtactical.com/

Nope but it's an interesting evolution/spin off from the Modulus jig.
I got a 5D tactical jig for Christmas, I haven't used it yet but it seems like the best made/easiest jig to use.

Best thing is with all your tools etc you can be under $500 for the entire setup.

Next month I will make my first 80% AR lower and will have a good write up with pics etc.
Link Posted: 12/28/2016 11:40:53 PM EST
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Originally Posted By DaveP1:


I have been reading up on their new digital read outs and they look like they are pretty good for the money, I am also looking at my option to install and app on a old Android tablet I have and then have all three on one tablet.

It will be fun, I think the building part is as fun as the finishing part, my wife hates that I like to tinker!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&&campId=5337559805&customId=ix9vuemyi100zk8a00e15;campId=5337559805&toolId=10001&customId=iwl9g9z17g00zk8a00004&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F142023107663%3F_trksid%3Dp2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Those look like an improvement over the older style. Nice.



Link Posted: 12/29/2016 1:58:59 AM EST
Link Posted: 12/30/2016 12:25:29 AM EST
[Last Edit: 12/30/2016 12:27:37 AM EST by 5DTactical]
Link Posted: 12/30/2016 1:31:28 AM EST
Using your jig, how much of a bridge can you leave in the lower between the rear takedown pin & the safety?
Link Posted: 12/31/2016 1:09:02 AM EST
Link Posted: 12/31/2016 1:48:52 AM EST
Cheers.
Link Posted: 12/31/2016 11:20:51 AM EST
[Last Edit: 1/2/2017 1:31:36 PM EST by K1rodeoboater]
Some other things you might want to have around for doing 80% lowers....

A set of needle files this is a cheap set that works well.  If you get that set do yourself a favor and pull the handles off and re-glue them to the files.

A brass punch and hammer set is a good thing to have I have this wheeler set.  It's a mediocre set but it gets the job done for most things.  The punches are meh quality but it's a nice compact set.

a 1/8" drill bit is also good to have in case your selector doesn't have a positive (I.E. the detent holds it solidly in the fire and safe positions) feel to it.  Use that to open up the detent hole and you'll suddenly have a much more positive selector.  

ETA:  Also you may want to have a tap and tap wrench to cut more pistol grip threads.  I've got several lowers that needed a few more threads cut to get the pistol grip to lock up properly.  If you thread them all the way through you can use a set screw as an overtravel adjustment.  Additionally you can get a tap to thread the rear takedown detent channel (you have to cut off about 1/8" of the spring) so you can swap from a carbine to a fixed rifle stock, or even omit the endplate.  
Link Posted: 12/31/2016 1:55:26 PM EST
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Originally Posted By 5DTactical:

Are you referring to this? If so, with our jig you would achieve that by starting off using the #2 Guide Pins (medium length) which will only engage the #2 portion of fire control group pocket guide (see below), excluding the rear shelf. You'd start off using the #1 Depth Guide either way.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/455713/searweb-117218.jpg

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/455713/308-jig-top-min-117219.jpg
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I can say from experience, there is no reason to remove the web between the takedown pocket and FCG pocket, I have 4 of them, I just said the hell with it and left it in and they work just fine.
Link Posted: 1/10/2017 9:37:57 PM EST
http://ar15mold.com/freedom-15-5-kit/
Link Posted: 1/11/2017 2:06:28 AM EST
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Originally Posted By TnMike:
http://ar15mold.com/freedom-15-5-kit/
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Oh boy another plastic lower conversation!

Link Posted: 1/11/2017 12:35:19 PM EST
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Originally Posted By DaveP1:


Oh boy another plastic lower conversation!

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Yeah
Link Posted: 1/11/2017 6:09:49 PM EST
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Originally Posted By DaveP1:


Oh boy another plastic lower conversation!

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Originally Posted By DaveP1:
Originally Posted By TnMike:  http://ar15mold.com/freedom-15-5-kit/


Oh boy another plastic lower conversation!



http://ar15mold.com/freedom-15-5-kit

Given you can pour a new lower for a few dollars more, it's not threadworthy when you break one.  
Link Posted: 1/11/2017 7:15:02 PM EST
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Originally Posted By backbencher:


http://ar15mold.com/freedom-15-5-kit

Given you can pour a new lower for a few dollars more, it's not threadworthy when you break one.  
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$10.00 for a block of aluminum and a few hours on the mill, I have a new lower.

I don't use steel in my AR's and I don't use Plastic to make lowers.
Link Posted: 1/11/2017 10:58:27 PM EST
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Originally Posted By DaveP1:


$10.00 for a block of aluminum and a few hours on the mill, I have a new lower.

I don't use steel in my AR's and I don't use Plastic to make lowers.
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Originally Posted By DaveP1:
Originally Posted By backbencher:  http://ar15mold.com/freedom-15-5-kit

Given you can pour a new lower for a few dollars more, it's not threadworthy when you break one.  


$10.00 for a block of aluminum and a few hours on the mill, I have a new lower.

I don't use steel in my AR's and I don't use Plastic to make lowers.


I'd love to have a mill I could do 0% lowers on.  We're just now sketching out a shop I could fit one in.

Have you posted any of your 0% builds?  I want to pour a coke can lower someday.

With the Fruity Ghost lowers & the AR15Mold.com mold, you can create a gun in a space that does not have room for a mill - such as a vehicle going down the road.
Link Posted: 1/12/2017 9:14:05 AM EST
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Originally Posted By backbencher:


I'd love to have a mill I could do 0% lowers on.  We're just now sketching out a shop I could fit one in.

Have you posted any of your 0% builds?  I want to pour a coke can lower someday.

With the Fruity Ghost lowers & the AR15Mold.com mold, you can create a gun in a space that does not have room for a mill - such as a vehicle going down the road.
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I normally don't post many pictures of what I do, no reason to, most lowers are just that, lowers.

There have been a couple of pictures posted by others that have done 0% lowers in the past.

I just see no reason to buy plastic lowers right now, they are more expensive than the aluminum lowers, we are in our hey day right now, the next 4 years is going to be easy compared to what we have had for the last 20+ years.
Link Posted: 1/12/2017 5:32:48 PM EST
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Originally Posted By DaveP1:  I normally don't post many pictures of what I do, no reason to, most lowers are just that, lowers.

There have been a couple of pictures posted by others that have done 0% lowers in the past.

I just see no reason to buy plastic lowers right now, they are more expensive than the aluminum lowers, we are in our hey day right now, the next 4 years is going to be easy compared to what we have had for the last 20+ years.
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AR15mold.com & Fruity Ghost aren't about buying plastic lowers or even 80% plastic lowers - they're about casting plastic lowers for a few $ of 2-part plastic mix.  Yes, they'll crack - but they are so cheap to be disposable.  Roll that off your tongue for a minute - a disposable lower...
Link Posted: 1/12/2017 9:29:44 PM EST
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Originally Posted By backbencher:


AR15mold.com & Fruity Ghost aren't about buying plastic lowers or even 80% plastic lowers - they're about casting plastic lowers for a few $ of 2-part plastic mix.  Yes, they'll crack - but they are so cheap to be disposable.  Roll that off your tongue for a minute - a disposable lower...
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With no serial number or names on my machined lowers, they are pretty much disposable as well
Link Posted: 1/17/2017 2:08:49 AM EST
[Last Edit: 1/17/2017 2:27:47 AM EST by FREEFALLE7]
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Originally Posted By DaveP1:


With no serial number or names on my machined lowers, they are pretty much disposable as well
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Originally Posted By DaveP1:
Originally Posted By backbencher:


AR15mold.com & Fruity Ghost aren't about buying plastic lowers or even 80% plastic lowers - they're about casting plastic lowers for a few $ of 2-part plastic mix.  Yes, they'll crack - but they are so cheap to be disposable.  Roll that off your tongue for a minute - a disposable lower...


With no serial number or names on my machined lowers, they are pretty much disposable as well
Yep I just finished this lower in a hour and 45 mins and a hour later had it assembled on a upper shooting.

The 5D Tactical jig makes it easy.

Yea I will pass on the plastic, with mine it doesn't have to sit overnight to harden the plastic etc.

Link Posted: 1/29/2017 8:23:45 PM EST
Second lower completed using the 5D jig and a Dewalt DPW611 router. It took just over a hour.

Link Posted: 2/15/2017 1:09:30 AM EST
[Last Edit: 2/16/2017 1:29:53 AM EST by XxSLASHERxX]
Link Posted: 2/15/2017 9:59:25 AM EST
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Originally Posted By skankhunt42:  Just got this 80% polly lower kit, and this seems to be a really good product for the price. ($50+shipping)  Any suggestions on any known performance issues, or milling differences between the polly and aluminum lowers?  Thought it was worth a try

http://www.gunbroker.com/item/621587754

Any help would be appreciated!
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Reported for BFL infringement.

Looks like a straight cast of a modern aluminum lower w/ no additional reinforcement - more likely to break at the buffer tube boss.  Don't drop it, and I wouldn't use it for a .458" SOCOM upper or a 9x19mm blowback upper.
Link Posted: 2/19/2017 2:29:55 PM EST
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Originally Posted By DaveP1:


$10.00 for a block of aluminum and a few hours on the mill, I have a new lower.

I don't use steel in my AR's and I don't use Plastic to make lowers.
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Yea, I can't make a lower from a block, but I bought some Tactical Machining lowers for $29.

For AR lowers I decided to stay far away from plastic.
Link Posted: 4/30/2017 7:22:38 PM EST
Anyone know where to get any 80% A2 lowers that still have the trigger well flashing? My OCD is a little much. I prefer the Nodak 80% as they keep the flashing intact, but they don't sell and have no intentions of selling any A2 80%

William
Link Posted: 5/9/2017 8:32:53 AM EST
I was happy with https://80percentarms.com products.  

I'm wondering how compatible most of these jigs and lowers are with competitors, assuming the lower is similar billet shape.   The Modulus Arms are priced better and look identical.
Link Posted: 5/19/2017 11:23:02 PM EST
Who is everyone getting to Anodizing their completed lowers? Or doing it themself from Anodizing kits?
Link Posted: 5/19/2017 11:27:54 PM EST
I am thinking about buying a Anodizing kit from Caswell Plating and doing a bunch for myself.
Link Posted: 6/4/2017 9:37:19 AM EST
[Last Edit: 6/4/2017 9:42:30 AM EST by Dr69er]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 5DTactical:



Are you referring to this? If so, with our jig you would achieve that by starting off using the #2 Guide Pins (medium length) which will only engage the #2 portion of fire control group pocket guide (see below), excluding the rear shelf. You'd start off using the #1 Depth Guide either way.



https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/455713/searweb-117218.jpg

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/455713/308-jig-top-min-117219.jpg
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I actually suggest to people doing their own lower(s) to build them with the "bridge" as shown in your pics...Great
job by the way on your 5D jig design.
Link Posted: 6/4/2017 10:09:07 AM EST
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Originally Posted By Lawdog-1:
I am thinking about buying a Anodizing kit from Caswell Plating and doing a bunch for myself.
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a considerably cheaper way to do it with really good results is using a DuraCoat finish like many are doing right
now...

Link

For less than $50 it works well for most DIY needs...some places sell them for less...

Link to YT Video

Good luck.
Link Posted: 10/25/2017 8:58:24 PM EST
What ar15 router jigs are you guys using these days?  I have a 308 but need one for an ar15.  Looking at 5d and 80 arms easy jig 1.  Want a router based jig and tool kit.  Did not enjoy the drill press method.
Link Posted: 10/25/2017 9:16:48 PM EST
Link Posted: 1/3/2018 12:47:56 AM EST
Just received my 5D Tactical Jig today, can't wait to start stacking away lowers.
Link Posted: 1/3/2018 10:29:53 AM EST
I just finished up a couple of lowers using my 5D. I started using a Modulus jig. I should have gotten the 5D when I first started.
Link Posted: 1/7/2018 3:12:33 PM EST
5D here too
Link Posted: 3/14/2018 4:17:37 AM EST
Did my first 80 on a 5D jig over the weekend, and finished the lower last night.
As far as I am concerned, perfection.

I can't imagine doing this any other way.

Also a shout out to the pivot pin installation tool.
Link Posted: 3/14/2018 4:25:40 AM EST
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Originally Posted By Itgunner:
Has anyone used Daytona Tactical? If I am going to buy a lower I would prefer to buy the upper from the same people.
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Stay away from Daytona Tactical. My bud bought a 80% 308 lower from them and it was almost as useless as their customer service. I bought an AR-15 upper and they sent me the wrong one. Terrible customer service. Never again!!!!
Link Posted: 3/14/2018 9:04:49 AM EST
Ordered  a 5D Tactical Jig, website said 4 weeks to ship it, got it in 1 week.
Great service, beautiful jig.
Can't wait to use it.
Link Posted: 3/15/2018 6:24:37 PM EST
I have the 5d jig and bought some of the forged lowers from here. They are pretty nice looking.
Noreen 80's
Link Posted: 3/17/2018 11:34:04 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/17/2018 11:36:50 PM EST by cda97]
After stacking away a few lowers the past few months I finally set up an 80% lower in my 5D Tactical Jig and went to town.  It turned out well and damn does it make a huge mess, I cleaned up after every step. I haven't tried installing a lower parts kit yet but will have to take some pics soon.

A HUGE PLUS 1 to 5D Tactical for making this process as painless as possible.

Edit:  Just wanted to add that trying to start the screws for the spacers in the router were a pain because of the fine thread pitch.  You have to make sure you start those screws just right and take your time.
Link Posted: 3/25/2018 2:40:43 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By PursuitSS:
B.A.T.F.E. has made it clear that ITAR MUST be paid if you are a Type 07 or a Class II.

It doesn't matter whether you export or not. I don't agree with the interpretation but BOTH B.A.T.F.E. & State Dept. agree that you must pay it.
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Not correct. BATFE has NO jurisidiction over ITAR. In fact, it got so pissy between BATFE and State that State issued this letter a few months before you posted:

Persons who do not actually manufacture ITAR-controlled firearms (including by engaging in the activities described below, which DDTC has found in specific cases to constitute
manufacturing) need not register with DDTC – even if they have an FFL from ATF
.

http://pmddtc.state.gov/compliance/Applicability%20of%20the%20ITAR%20Registratio­n%20Requirement%20to%20Firearms%20Manufacture­rs%20(Publish).pdf

Now relevance to this thread, an FFL making AR lowers is making ITAR-controlled firearms, except under very limited circumstances.
Link Posted: 3/25/2018 6:50:19 PM EST
Just because I am a FFL7/SOT 2 does not mean I have to pay ITAR, ITAR is determined by what I manufacture, we pay it because we do manufacture items that are Classified under ITAR, but if we didn't, we can just be a FFL7/SOT 2, the two are not inclusive.
Link Posted: 3/31/2018 12:33:39 PM EST
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Originally Posted By floridagt:
I have the 5d jig and bought some of the forged lowers from here. They are pretty nice looking.
Noreen 80's
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So how do they look and function? How did you finish them?
Link Posted: 5/10/2018 8:31:02 AM EST
When he said:
My .02....DON'T DO IT!!!! It's not worth the risk!
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did he mean don't build your own or don't sell it?
Link Posted: 5/10/2018 10:10:32 AM EST
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Originally Posted By arthury:
When he said:

did he mean don't build your own or don't sell it?
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Who?
Link Posted: 5/10/2018 8:06:53 PM EST
Link Posted: 6/21/2018 9:46:17 PM EST
[Last Edit: 6/23/2018 2:11:39 PM EST by PursuitSS]
EDIT:

I can find NOTHING pertaining to “80%” Lowers on the vendors web site you named, you are definitely in the wrong forum. My suggestion is to post your complaint in GD (General Discussion)

PursuitSS
Link Posted: 8/17/2018 11:36:35 AM EST
I completed 5 80% lowers using the Modulas jig about 3 years ago. The milling went perfect but I found the safety detent hole was off on 3 of them which made the safety lever not clock correctly.  I don’t have the name of the company that I bought them from with me at the moment but I’m reluctant to do business with them again.  I’m getting geared up to do it again and I have a couple of questions.  Who has the best quality 80% lowers?  Will a billet lower work/fit in my jig?
Link Posted: 8/17/2018 8:03:12 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By RenegadeX:  Not correct. BATFE has NO jurisidiction over ITAR. In fact, it got so pissy between BATFE and State that State issued this letter a few months before you posted:

Persons who do not actually manufacture ITAR-controlled firearms (including by engaging in the activities described below, which DDTC has found in specific cases to constitute
manufacturing) need not register with DDTC – even if they have an FFL from ATF
.

http://pmddtc.state.gov/compliance/Applicability%20of%20the%20ITAR%20Registratio­n%20Requirement%20to%20Firearms%20Manufacture­rs%20(Publish).pdf

Now relevance to this thread, an FFL making AR lowers is making ITAR-controlled firearms, except under very limited circumstances.
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What might those circumstances be?
Link Posted: 8/25/2018 8:48:23 PM EST
@5DTactical

Which ROUTER JIG PRO TOOL KIT do I need?

I have a Craftsmen Model 315.175040 router 25,000 RPM

Also, do I need the FULL-SIZE ROUTER PLATE?

How come you don't sell AR-15 80% LOWER - FORGED 7075-T6 Raw?

Thanks!
Link Posted: 8/27/2018 1:15:05 PM EST
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