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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 11/25/2003 12:12:29 AM EST
I'm ready to upgrade my trigger. I want single stage for target/plinking/varmint control.I've narrowed it donw to JP or JARD. Any opinions/advantages of one vs. the other? Thanks.
Link Posted: 11/26/2003 7:08:50 AM EST
[Last Edit: 11/26/2003 7:13:48 AM EST by Russ4777]
I have no experience with the Jard, but have built 2 rifles with the complete JP single-stage fire control system, including their anti-walk pins. I am completely satisfied with the performance. There is very, very little takeup (this is adjustable, but don't recommend getting too little sear engagement, not safe), pull is 3 lb 1 oz, break is clean, overtravel is adjustable. It is not a drop-in system but easy to get set-up. The instructions provided with the system are very easy to follow. Some simple hand tools are necessary to disassemble/assemble the components. You may need to file the back of the trigger to get the proper selector engagement. Not a big deal. I would recommend you either use JP's pins or get some slighty oversize pins from someone like [url]http://www.kagerind.com/Kager_Static_Home/S-gun_sights/s-gun_sights2.htm[/url]. The absence of "slop" in the trigger and hammer means reliable, repeatable break. For two-stage systems, I believe that the Jewell system can't be beat. Some people on this board whine about adjustment setscrews that may loosen up, but if the parts are completely degreased and properly LocTite'd during setup and assembly you will not have a problem. Good triggers require the ability to adjust them properly during installation. This mandates moveable setscrews to achieve final settings. That's a fact of life. The manufacturing tolerances in the wide variety of lowers being made these days make a true drop-in trigger system that REALLY performs well (very precise) an impossible thing to design and build.
Link Posted: 11/26/2003 5:34:58 PM EST
I like both. The JARD can be set up lighter, but you have to play with it to get all hints of creep out. I have two set up to break at 16 oz. with NO creep, no overtravel, and INSTANT reset. If you favor a 3 lb. trigger, I'd probably go with the JP simply because it tends to be a little more friendly to set up without creep.
Link Posted: 11/28/2003 7:41:02 AM EST
If you need below three pounds = JARD If you don't want any screws = Accuracy speaks JP light hammer spring will sometimes fail on hard primers if used with the bobbed hammer.
Link Posted: 12/7/2003 2:44:39 AM EST
Agree with Cking. With the lighter spring, I had some FTF with XM193, the primers are harder. Not a problem, just put in the stronger spring. JP installation video makes it easy to assemble.
Link Posted: 12/9/2003 5:20:44 PM EST
I've got the JP spring kit which, when installed in my Bushy, yielded a 4.2 lb trigger pull (Lyman gage) versus the 8.8 lb stock configuration. Also had FTF with both the Federal and Win military ammo. Sorry, but I can't live with that. Reinstalled the stock springs, but I'm still looking for a light trigger that's RELIABLE with the mil spec ammo.
Link Posted: 12/10/2003 4:41:42 AM EST
racecar58, try putting the JP trigger spring back in but leave the hammer spring stock. Should lower the pull some but still pop primers at full force. And take a look at [url=http://www.sargenthome.com/15_Minute_AR_Trigger_Job.htm]AFreeMan's 15-minute trigger job[/url] if you haven't yet. FWIW, I never had any trouble using the JP springs with their trigger and hammer. Pull around 2-2.5lb and 100% reilable with Q3131/Q3131A. But I never tried the Fed. XM193.
Link Posted: 12/10/2003 9:40:15 AM EST
JP's speed hammer is really needed with the light spring. Even with the JP hammer, a stock hammer spring is more reliable with mil primers. My JP is set up that way and breaks clean at 3.5# with TOTAL reliability on hard primers.
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