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9/19/2017 7:27:10 PM
Posted: 5/12/2003 9:10:34 AM EDT
I finally got a chance to go to the range with my new OLY 16" SUM upper. I cleaned and cleaned and cleaned with patches and solvents only (no brushing per OLY advice) and FINALLY got it spotless before going. I could not buhLEEVE the time and effort it took to get it clean.

Anyway, while doing barrel break in of cleaning after each shot, I had to do the following, using Break Free CLP:
Run a wet patch-2 or 3 times
Run a bronze brush - 8-10 times
Run patches (tight fitting/good quality) 5-10 times back and forth.

I had to run anywhere from 6 to 10 patches to get a clean one. This was every time after one shot. This was obviously very time consuming and I am not done with the first 20 shots yet.

Is this pretty normal? Any recommendations on doing anything differently or trying some other product or just keep at it?

Link Posted: 5/12/2003 9:31:53 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/12/2003 9:32:58 AM EDT by mr_wilson]
IMO, CLP is not gonna clean your bore, ya should use a bore cleaner like Hoppes #9 or my choice Sweets 7.62 as a bore cleaner. This is why it took so long to get the bore clean. As to break-in, IF this is a chrome chambered and chrome-lined barrel breakin is not necessary, but I use the same method for all my rifles. Shoot 10-20 rounds and clean throughly, shoot 40-50 rounds and clean throughly, from then on, I clean when done with the shooting session no matter the round count. Mike PS - w/ the Sweets, which is/can be harmful if left in bore for extended periods, ya should rinse it out throughly, I use a clean carb cleaner like the SuperTech 2000 sold by Walmart for this rinsing, BTW this works well for blowing the carbon outta the gas-tube too. If I'm going right back to shooting, I don't lube the bore, if I'm done shooting for the day, I lube the bore w/ a CLP soaked patch and run 2 or 3 dry patches to remove the excess.
Link Posted: 5/12/2003 9:35:51 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/12/2003 9:36:20 AM EDT by Markbo]
Thanks Mr. Wilson. That is the first time anyone has recommended Hoppe's. You must be an oldtimer too. The barrel is an SUM - stainless ultra match .223. I used Hoppe's trying to clean it initially and just went over and over it. I switched to CLP and it came clean fairly soon thereafter. I don't have any Sweet's, but I do have some Butch's bore shine. Will that work on the next break in trip or should I shop for some sweet's locally?
Link Posted: 5/12/2003 10:37:59 AM EDT
Hoppes #9 should be dead and buried by now.. :) It does nothing to clean copper out of a barrel. There are far superior bore cleaners on the market. If you want something that will take out some copper then try shooters choice, or hoppes benchrest formula. I use shooters choice on occasion, but.. my main bore cleaner now is MPro7. It works great at removing everything but the copper, for that I use sweets.
Link Posted: 5/12/2003 10:47:03 AM EDT
Dude I use hoppes #9. It works great.
Link Posted: 5/12/2003 10:54:17 AM EDT
hehe.. yeah, you may use it.. but, it's far from great.. :) Plus, at 17 or whatever young age you are.. you don't have lot's of time pushing it through your bore.. :)
Link Posted: 5/12/2003 11:07:20 AM EDT
For break-in, I use butch's bore shine. You need a copper remover (ammonia) for break-in, based on the theory of breaking in a barrel. I just swab it real good with butch's, then bronze brush a few strokes, then push a few dry patches out. That's it. It doesn't have to come out spotless for break-in, IMHO... just the majority of the copper fouling should come out in preparation for the next shot. #9 and CLP aint gonna do a whole lot for breaking in a barrel, without a ton of scrubbing.
Link Posted: 5/13/2003 4:13:52 AM EDT
I used Hoppes #9. Run a brush, I use a plastic one for cleaning case necks, let it set for 15 minutes and then run a patch through. Now if there's green on it I always assumed that was copper fouling that the Hoppes disolved, hence the plastic, not bronze, brush. After about 4 iterations the "green" usualy diminishes and/or ceases. I used to use Shooter choice but felt it was a tad too harsh for match barrels. The key to using Hoppes is to let the chemicals do the work. Let it set 15 minutes before wipeing it out. I could be all full of shit, or somebody else could be too.
Link Posted: 5/13/2003 5:10:52 AM EDT
Only Hoppes benchrest formula has copper removing properties. Hoppes #9 does not dissolve copper whatsoever.
Link Posted: 5/13/2003 6:30:21 AM EDT
Well I know that I have some Bore Shine in the cabinet so I will try that next trip out. If that is not working any better than the CLP I will try to find some Sweet's locally. I believe the Mpro7 and shooters choice are mail order only options. I'll follow up and let you guys know what I find after this weekend (I hope!)
Link Posted: 5/14/2003 6:59:25 AM EDT
Originally Posted By BuLLet: Only Hoppes benchrest formula has copper removing properties. Hoppes #9 does not dissolve copper whatsoever.
View Quote
Actually it's Hoppe's Nitro No. 9, Powder Solvent that I use and it does remove copper fouling.
Link Posted: 5/14/2003 9:31:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/14/2003 9:36:00 AM EDT by BuLLet]
Wow what a revaluation. I have no idea what Hoppes 'nitro' is, but, if it's anything like their benchrest formula I suppose it could dissolve copper as well. But, as I stated, Hoppes #9 has no copper removing properties whatsoever. I'm glad to hear that you're using something other then plain #9 to 'dissolve' copper, we can't have people running around with all these copper fouled barrels!
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