Just built my 1st upper and need to check headspace. To do this I have to strip the bolt thus removing the ejector. How the hell do I get it out???!!!! HELP!!!!!!

1. pull out firing pin retaining pin.
2.drop firing pin out
3. turn bolt cam and remove
4. pull bolt out
5. push ejector retaining pin out, and remove ejector. do not remove ejector spring from ejector. do not lose any of these small parts or you are S.O.L.

6. Like a good soldier, practice until you can field strip your weapon (yes, handguards removed) in 30 seconds and reassemble in 30 seconds. I used to be able to do it blindfolded, but haven't tried in a while. (yes, there were boring times in the barracks).



You scaring me here man, you want to check headspace (depot-level maintenance), but you don't know how to strip your bolt? Seems you've got the cart before the horse here. Good luck, be careful!

The ejector isn't the same as the extractor is it? What is the round spring loaded rod directly across from the extractor which is already removed.

You are right, the ejector is the small rod not the extractor. my bad. Let me consult tm9-1005-319-23.pdf and see what it says about removal of the ejector

If you have to remove the ejector you bought the wrong field gauge.  Military gauges don't require you to strip the bolt.

However when removing the ejector the best tip I've been given is to do it with your hands in a clear plastic bag.  That way when the ejector comes flying out it is caught by the bag.

What I have is a go and nogo guage. From what I read this is the safest method of checking headspace for sure. O.K. I have a plastic bag......now what?

click on "parts diagrams" to the left to see what the parts are called.  if by ejector you mean the bolt carrier assembly, and the spring you are talking about goes into the buttstock, than that is the recoil spring which reduces felt recoil.

[url]http://www.ar15.com/content/books/[/url]

Go there, and download the Maintenance Manual

Page 2-38.

You'll need a 1/16th punch and a mallet.

No this is the ejector on the bolt, I know what the buffer tube spring is.

tm9-1005-319-23 says you don't remove the ejector to check headspace. However, if you still want to do it, here is the procedure:

tm9-1005-319-23.pdf section 2-14 a.

*caution*
Be sure to sure to use vise protective grips.

Hold bolt body in vise and remove spring pin using 1/16 inch pin punch and hammer.

Remove punch, be sure to catch cartridge ejector and ejector spring to prevent loss.


Here's a link where you can download the manual in PDF form. The pictures would make it easier.
Find the TM 9-1005-319-23 once you get to the page and right-click on the link to the manual, then select "save target as" to save it to your desktop, it will be much faster than trying to open it. your will need Adobe Acrobat to view it.

you want this one: [bold]M16A2, M4, M4A1 Unit and Direct Support Maintenance Manual - TM 9-1005-319-23 [/bold]


[url] http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/[/url]

or [url]www.ar15.com/content/books/[/url] as Lumpy said.

Yes, when using an Army FIELD gage removal of the ejector is not required. The base of the Army gage is relieved to clear the extractor and ejector. This eliminates their added resistance when checking HS. The Army FIELD gage is a "least common denominator" gage. It's designed so any chimp can use it and have only a tiny chance of screwing up.

The military requires only FIELD gage checks bc the GO and NOGO dimesions were checked at the factory/depot.

Most GO and NOGO gages have extractor grooves and require the removal of the ext and eje prior to gaging. An experienced assembler does not need to remove the eje and ext (though doing so is "proper") to use the GO and NOGO bc he has learned how hard to close the bolt and what constitutes undue force. It is recommended that inexperienced assemblers remove the ext and eje prior to HSing. It is also recommeded that if the eje and ext are left installed that they be checked for full range of motion and their resistance checked for future reference. Sucks to ream a chamber deeper only to find out that the ejector doesn't fully telescope beneath the bolt face or that the extractor can't move fully out of the way of the incoming gage.

Fultom Armory and Brownells both sell a "bolt vise" that compresses the ejector and restrains it after the roll pin is removed. A highly recommended AR specific tool. Most times the roll pin can simply be driven out and the drift pin will catch the ejector.

Reassembly is where extra manipulation is required. Best trick I've seen (short of the bolt vise) is to start the roll pin into the bolt, then add the spring and ejector retained by a slave pin, then clip a spent case into the extractor and rock it against the ejector while driving in the roll pin.

To repeat, the military stresses use of the FIELD gage bc the GO dimension (most importantly) has already been checked. Barring parts swapping, or other non standard activity, HS does not get shorter, only longer hence the military checks to make sure that HS hasn't become "too (FIELD)long."

New builds must be checked with a GO gage and a FIELD gage at a minimum.

More [url=http://ar15.com/forums/announcement.html?b=3&f=66&id=186]here[/url]

And just what is the point. If you check your headspace and it's off you have no way of correcting it short of buying a new barrel.

It's just fine shoot it.

No, that isn't the only option. If the barrel is chromed then you can try swapping out bolts and rechecking the HS. There is enough tolerance on the HS dimension of the bolt to allow for a change of up to one HS gage.

If the barrel is not chromed then the HS is corrected like any other firearm.

Has it occurred to anyone to simply grind one edge of the HS guage to provide clearance for the ejector pin?

Works for me[:D]

Take a empty shell casing and place it in the bolt face to press the ejector down, then just simply use a punch to push out the retaining pin and the slowly let up on the ejector.  Just one question?  Most AR barrels come with the Barrel extension already on them and they are head spaced by the manufacturer.  I think you may be out thinking your self or over complicating matters.  I never worry about these things and I have assembled and moved barrels from upper to upper for years.  Good Luck.............[banghead]

Here's how I do it:

Clamp an empty case in a vise.

Leave the extractor on the bolt, hook the extractor on the empty case & swing the bolt to compress the ejector & spring.

Now you can drive out the pin & remove the ejector under control.