Which trigger?
and if it is a two stage trigger, it needs the first stage creep to work correctly!!!!

The way that the two stage trigger works, is that the front and back trigger sear have to be set so no mater how the hammer comes down, or what postion the trigger is in, one of the two sears is going to retain the hammer.

Now on release of the trigger from the rearward pulled position, the hammer back sear releases from the back disco trigger, and the front trigger sear catches the hammer front sear instead.

Now as you are pulling the trigger for the light amount of creep, what sets the second stage is the rear hammer sear contacting the rear disco sear above the actual sear, to set the second stage wall.  If the disco is set correctly, then any trigger pull movement after you have reached the second stage wall, will release the hammer. Hence if the second stage/disco is set correctly, the second stage break should feel like you snapping a thin glass rod to release the hammer.



So when F makes contact to C to add the second stage trigger pull weight wall increase, it should be just before the point that A is about to clear the front hammer sear with any more trigger pull.  Hence the second stage wall, that tells that the hammer is going to be released with any further pull.


So there is no way to set a two stage trigger to single stage (hence take up all the first stage creep), since you end up loosing the second stage wall and end up with a vague when the trigger is going to release the hammer point instead.


As for the trigger pin, its the  hammer spring leg  in the trigger pins annular groove that should be retaining the pin in place, and if you are having problems with the pin, bank that you have either installed the hammer spring wrong on the hammer, or you do not have the hammer spring legs on top of the trigger pin instead.


On the hammer pin, they use a C type coil clip that will lock into the side groove of the hammer pin, that locks it into place with the hammer (instead of using a J type spring in the inside of the hammer, which the J spring would lock into the center annular groove of the pin instead).


As for the either the trigger or hammer pin spinning/rotating in the receiver pin channels, that is normal. Regarding the pin moving slightly left to right, normal again since is the pins side to side position is  locked to the trigger or hammer which can be loose side to side in the lower receiver void isntead (too much slop between the sides of the parts, and the channel void they are in).

Simply put here, there needs to be about .001" of lash between the trigger and hammer sides to the inner void walls of the receiver so the parts can move freely, but on some receivers if you are trying to go full NM on the parts and the inside of the receiver is slightly wider than normal for what is needed for the trigger and hammer widths, you may need to shim the trigger and hammer inside the void walls to stack up some of the slop.



And again, since is the pins that are locked into the FCG parts, if you are trying to center the pins to the sides of the receiver, this will determine the direction that you will be shimming the FCG parts withing the receiver channel void walls.  So again, the disco is adjusted into the back edge of the rear hammer sear above the sear itself to add the needed second stage wall point just before the two stage trigger just about to release the hammer instead.