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Posted: 2/16/2012 6:32:17 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/16/2012 6:47:14 AM EDT by MrM1A1]
I have an old aluminum CAR stock on the way, I think it is a Bushy stock, as it has a small B on the left side. It has some blems, so I am planning on stripping it and refinishing it with some Krylon.

In order to replicate the vinyl acetate look, would I be better suited using semi-gloss, or gloss black? Any other recommendations as far as products to use to replicate the vinyl acetate look? Not looking to spend a bunch of $$, and want to be able to pick the product up at Home Depot, or the local hardware. Seems like Krylon would be fine, but if you guys have any other suggestion for something more durable, or more accurate finish wise, I'm all ears(or eyes).

Thanks for any help!!

ETA: the GAU 5/A/A that I'm using the stock for won't see a lot of use, maybe one or two trips to the range per year, so durability isn't really a huge issue, but still something to consider.
Link Posted: 2/16/2012 7:00:04 AM EDT
(tinat)
Link Posted: 2/16/2012 7:26:13 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/16/2012 7:27:28 AM EDT by shrikefan]
I think someone used that 'hammered' finish rustoleum with good results.

ETA - has anybody ever tried that spray on tool handle dip stuff?
Link Posted: 2/16/2012 8:04:22 AM EDT
Originally Posted By ar154all:
(tinat)


What?
Link Posted: 2/16/2012 8:07:29 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/16/2012 8:09:23 AM EDT by ar154all]
Originally Posted By MrM1A1:
Originally Posted By ar154all:
(tinat)


What?


this
is
not
a
tag



a post whoring tag

I marked this thread so it is easier to find later, because I would like to read others thoughts on your question. Oh, and I get a post count for doing so...
Link Posted: 2/16/2012 8:21:02 AM EDT
Powder coating, not vey expensive and very durable
Link Posted: 2/16/2012 9:14:34 AM EDT
If Krylon is the way you are going, both of my original Colts' match up really well to the gloss. Nothing flat or hammered would come close.
Link Posted: 2/16/2012 9:32:28 AM EDT
Originally Posted By ar154all:
Originally Posted By MrM1A1:
Originally Posted By ar154all:
(tinat)


What?


this
is
not
a
tag



a post whoring tag

I marked this thread so it is easier to find later, because I would like to read others thoughts on your question. Oh, and I get a post count for doing so...


ar154all, of course you know that post count doesn't amount to anything...I've seen very knowledgeable people with post counts under a hundred, while there are some with counts of several and even tens of thousands of posts, that didn't know jack...post count can be really


now as to the OP's question.....I've had very good results using multiple light coats of semi gloss black Aluma-Hyde II from Brownell's

here's a pic of an alloy Bushmaster stock I did several years ago, and the finish is holding up really well
Link Posted: 2/16/2012 9:54:00 AM EDT
Crackedcornish, that looks prett damn nice. One question, is your Bushy stock commercial or milspec?

I think I'm gonna try gloss black Krylon, if I'm not happy wih it I can strip it and get some Alumahyde. I like Alumahyde and have used it many times on tons of different projects, I would just like to try the $4 option before dumping $20 into a can from Brownells.
Link Posted: 2/16/2012 10:31:17 AM EDT
Originally Posted By MrM1A1:
Crackedcornish, that looks prett damn nice. One question, is your Bushy stock commercial or milspec?

I think I'm gonna try gloss black Krylon, if I'm not happy wih it I can strip it and get some Alumahyde. I like Alumahyde and have used it many times on tons of different projects, I would just like to try the $4 option before dumping $20 into a can from Brownells.


commercial.....came with a 2 pos. tube for $20 shipped from the EE a couple years back


originally it had a black krinkle finish, that while it wasn't bad, it wasn't correct looking either


I hear ya' on the price of Aluma-Hyde, but I use it a lot on my Jeep stuff, so it was what I had on hand at the time
Link Posted: 2/16/2012 11:50:46 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/16/2012 3:31:38 PM EDT by TexasRifleman]
Originally Posted By shrikefan:
ETA - has anybody ever tried that spray on tool handle dip stuff?


The thin coating needed doesn't stick very well.

It probably won't even work for a wall hanger or safe queen. Just handling it makes the rubber peel off. It needs to go on really thick to stay, and then it's not even and looks wrong for a stock.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Link Posted: 2/16/2012 12:09:59 PM EDT
Originally Posted By crackedcornish:

...post count can be really


CC, relax man

this thread is REALLY relevant to my interests..
Link Posted: 2/16/2012 12:36:31 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/16/2012 12:37:27 PM EDT by JeffCsr]
Don't laugh but I've used Rustoleum Matte Black and clear coated it with Min-wax Polyurethane Clear (Rattle can) and it holds up well.

I always had blacks rub off, that's what made me clear it with the Min-wax that I had laying around.
Link Posted: 2/16/2012 1:37:15 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/16/2012 1:38:21 PM EDT by Cdenmark]
I just recently got a tip here from someone who had tried the rubberized black bumper paint which should be available at most auto parts. Kinda remember it costing more than $5 a can but I happened to have a couple cans laying around that had to be over 10 yrs old, tried it and personally liked it better than Krylon Fusion which I also have plenty of. Never tried alumahyde on a stock to date. Only have one Colt aluminum and I'm not painting it. I used the rubberized paint on fiberlite stocks for the Colt aluminum stock look. Pics are with only first light coat. Ended up with three light coats and it feels kinda vinyl coated. Stuff works good for sling swivel coating too.

Link Posted: 2/16/2012 3:47:06 PM EDT
Used Rust-Oleum Engine enamel. It is gloss finish, 500 degree rated, and gas and oil resistant. It does scratch like any paint would but coats nice. I used a fiberlight stock to practice on.

Link Posted: 2/16/2012 5:31:32 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Trimdad:
Powder coating, not vey expensive and very durable


+ 1 For the powder coating
Link Posted: 2/16/2012 5:37:59 PM EDT
I've powder coated a few, but I think the Alumahyde looks more authentic. Wears better too...
Link Posted: 2/16/2012 6:23:08 PM EDT
I tried that Hammered finish on some old plastic stock bodies, it's ok but I doubt it's hold up to any kind of abuse.
Go with powder coat, the results are amazing.
Link Posted: 2/16/2012 6:31:07 PM EDT
How much would I be looking at spending for a gloss black powder coat roughly?
Link Posted: 2/17/2012 9:25:29 AM EDT
Originally Posted By ar154all:
Originally Posted By crackedcornish:

...post count can be really


CC, relax man

this thread is REALLY relevant to my interests..


please, don't take it the wrong way ...I'm just sayin, don't sweat the post count thing...OK
Link Posted: 2/17/2012 10:07:26 AM EDT
I called a shop, they told me between 16 to 25.00
To powder coat it, you would have to show it to them to get a accurate number
Link Posted: 2/17/2012 10:20:41 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Trimdad:
I called a shop, they told me between 16 to 25.00
To powder coat it, you would have to show it to them to get a accurate number


Hey thanks for the legwork! I might be leaning towards this option, did a little research, and it seems like it will be the best coating. Thanks again!
Link Posted: 2/17/2012 12:01:52 PM EDT
I got one done here in Utah and it cost me $20.00. I did however media blast it before I took it to the Powder Coater.
Link Posted: 2/17/2012 12:05:49 PM EDT
Great to see another Utah post! What was the name of the company that did the powder coat? I might use them in the future!
Link Posted: 2/17/2012 6:55:10 PM EDT
Creer Sheetmetal in Provo.
Link Posted: 2/17/2012 7:27:20 PM EDT
What is the easiest way to hold the pin that locks into the receiver extension so the nut can be removed to take off the latch? I have one that is super tight and I have no way to keep the pin from spinning.
Link Posted: 2/17/2012 7:33:38 PM EDT
Originally Posted By shrikefan:
What is the easiest way to hold the pin that locks into the receiver extension so the nut can be removed to take off the latch? I have one that is super tight and I have no way to keep the pin from spinning.


most have a slot on the plunger for a small flat heat screwdriver to hold it. another trick it to pull the latch and plunger down and let the stock almost come all the way off and release it. that way the plunger is resting on the highest point of the channel with the position holes. that gives it it something to snug against and more of the plunger exposed if you need to grab it with some needle nosed pliers etc...
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