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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 7/8/2003 2:17:05 PM EST
I've been considering getting a Firsh FF handguard for my Oly PCR16. Now I'm not a gun smith by any stretch of the imagination. But I'm pretty handy with my hands. Do I have this correct?
To install the FIRSH, all I have to do is tap out the roll pin on my gasblock, unscrew the 2 allen screws on the bottom side of the gas block, then slide it off the barrel? Then take a strap wrench and unscrew my aluminum FF handguard off. Then add a little Anti seize grease on the barrel nut and screw the FIRSH on, then re-install my gas block?

Let me know if this is correct. If so, I'll probably be going by the factory to pick it up this Friday. Thanks.
Link Posted: 7/8/2003 3:02:08 PM EST
There are detailed instructions here: http://www.triplebreakproducts.com/Olympic/how_to_install_FIRSH.htm It's easy if you have the right tools. Good luck. Steve.
Link Posted: 7/8/2003 3:19:28 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/8/2003 3:21:06 PM EST by VA-gunnut]
As long as Olymic made sure the threads on the barrel nut are the same between the Firsh and the FF tube. Edited to add: You shouldn't have to remove the gas tube from the front site block because it will slide out of the upper when you start to slide front site off the barrel.
Link Posted: 7/8/2003 4:35:51 PM EST
Yes.I called and checked and they confirmed that my PCR 16's current aluminum FF handguard uses the same nut as one used by the FIRSH.
Link Posted: 7/8/2003 7:51:05 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/8/2003 7:51:57 PM EST by Fenian]
Aristotle13, I'm interested in the FIRSH, but I haven't heard back from Triple Break yet...Oly says they're the only place to get 'em.
Link Posted: 7/8/2003 9:07:30 PM EST
Hey Fenian sounds like you're gonna try again?
Link Posted: 7/8/2003 10:15:47 PM EST
Any of the "two piece" handguards made at Oly should use the same handguard nut, FIRSH , free floaters , etc. They only make one type of handguard nut and are common to all the two piece systems made by them. They are made entirely in house, raw alum tubing for the free floaters and extruded tubing for the FIRSH. I used to run one of the CNC milling machines that produced the FIRSH units, I did the fluting and weaver rail slots. Lots of machine cuts on those things. Threading, over all length and clamping area slice cut were made before and after my machine. Fritze Out BTW-I highly rec some kind of anti seize compound on any of the units except the FIRSH because it has a clamping bolt.
Link Posted: 7/8/2003 11:51:24 PM EST
Hmmm., I have not seen an email or a phone message. Please contact us again and we would be glad to take care of you.
Link Posted: 7/8/2003 11:53:38 PM EST
Originally Posted By Fritze: BTW-I highly rec some kind of anti seize compound on any of the units except the FIRSH because it has a clamping bolt.
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As someone who has field experience, I strongly recommend blue Loctite (medium) to the clamping bolt. I have seen the bolt come loose with heavy use. Blue is easy enough to "crack" open if needed.
Link Posted: 7/9/2003 2:32:34 AM EST
Originally Posted By Fenian: Aristotle13, I'm interested in the FIRSH, but I haven't heard back from Triple Break yet...Oly says they're the only place to get 'em.
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I see that you are in VA, my dealer that is near Farmville is where I got mine. If you can't find someone online, IM me and I will give you the guys number.
Link Posted: 7/9/2003 5:09:12 AM EST
I have talked to a few people on this sight who also installed the FIRSH. I have one currently on my AR. The only problem I had was the lock down screw ended up at 9:00 (when looking down the muzzle) and the FIRSH had to be backed off. My barrel nut was tightened down to 72-76 lbs and the gas hole lined up, so there was no more turning the barrel nut. When I backed down the FIRSH I tightened the Lock down screw and added blue loctite. After a few round the FIRSH was coming loose. The lock down screw was still tight. This was the same problem a few other people had. I sent an IM to a few of them and a police officer who uses the FIRSH suggest RED Loctite on the out side of the barrel nut and a little in the FIRSH threads. After that I tightened it down and tightened down the locking screw with some loctite. I can't remember if I used Blue or Red on the locking screw. In any case both can be removed with a soldering iron held down to it. I place a vertical grip on the bottom rail and went off to the range. I took it out for a test run and found it very ridged. I went out and put 200 rds through it nonstop. The temp was 98 degrees and sunny. The rifle was left out in the sun all day and was so hot all you could touch was the vertical grip and the pistol grip. I never had a problem with it. I shot it all day long and nothing came loose. After 500rds the FIRSH was solid. Except a little never seize came out of the barrel nut. I took it home and everything was tight. After 500 rds it never lost zero. The sight I am using is a mepor 21 Reflex. The mount goes over to the FIRSH, but tightens down to the upper. The gap in between the FIRSH and the upper is only about a 1/4 inch, so it does line up very nicely. I have no problem suggesting this rail to anybody. It's a good solid system at a very fair price. It's with me every time I travel to my cabin for the weekend. I I contact triple break product and ordered a mid length. I changed my plans after I got a message that the front sight post I wanted was not going to be in for a month. I contacted them later that night and left a message and left them an E-mail. The next morning I called them as soon as they opened. I was assured they received my E-mail and message and they changed my order sent out a carbine length and fixed my billing and I received a e-mail back from Mark about the change and thanking me for my order.
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