I am totally rebuilding my bold and when I removed the extractor pin it was easy but when I started on the ejecter pin thats when the problems started. I first followed the directions by putting it in a vise, used the proper punch made for removing it "this punch is for the ar15" it bent then broke. Then I tried other punches and ground down nails and finally got it out. Now the fun really starts I put the new spring in then the ejecter with the notch turned in then the new pin. The new pin was worse going in then the old one was coming out, I got it a third of the way and it broke,so I used the rest of it and put it in from the other side. After an hour I had it back in the ejecter was out even with the bolt face I pushed it in and it stayed in. After ten minutes of saying a few choice words I tried to push out the new pin with the old one and it broke. So my question is would heating it help remove the pin or free the ejecter or what do yall suggest? Thanks Autogunner.

I would stay away from heating the pins, are you applying pressure to the ejector when removing and installing the roll pin? I would lightly chamfer the holes on both sides after the retaining pin is removed.
Robert

www.rbprecision.com

Yes I am appling presure both when I took it out and when I went back together with it. What about lubeing it before installing, I had it dry as a bone but I didn't want it to come out? Thanks Autogunner.

While using a tool especially designed for "bolt" dis-assembly is the easiest way to work on your bolt. Most of us don't have one.

The only bolt work I ever done was to "potty train" a couple of mine......, this involves clipping the spring to have the ejected rounds land in a small pile, for easy retrieval after firing.

See pic:
[img]http://www.ar15.com/content/parts/bolt.gif[/img]

Here are some tips:

1. Complete removal of the ejector pin, (4) is not necessary, as when pushed far enough out the bottom of the bolt, both spring (6) and pin (4) will come out.

2. As without the dis-assembly tool, ya need 3 hands, suggest ya have a friend handy to help.

3. Use a spent round (the brass) and place into the bolt to compress the ejector, this will remove pressure from the pin (4), making it easier for your friend to tap the pin far enough out the bottom to release both spring and pin.

4. Notch on ejector faces out, toward the true "left" side of bolt, when re-installing spring and ejector, flip the bolt over and while again using a spent case, hold ejector in and have friend tap pin back into place.

Hope this is some help,
Mike

I've got the same problem, only I haven't went as far as you have.

I wanted to check out the ejector and spring, since I was having an occasional failure to eject.

Using the Brownells tool that allow you to depress the ejector in, I've worked on driving out the ejector rollpin with a 1/16" punch (broken), nails (bent), and a jeweler's screwdriver (bent).

I actually looks like one side has went in some and STOPPED, while the other hasn't budge.

I was tempted to drill it out, until I read your thread about putting a new pin in.

I'll probably just leave the *$%&$ in.


Chris