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Posted: 6/21/2017 8:56:56 AM EDT
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Does it make sense when you purchase a new rifle to do a total detailed cleaning before shooting? I know it's a good idea to to a basic cleaning but I'm talking about total stripped down. Not so much the lower but the whole upper. Including removing the extractor.
How often to people do complete detail cleanings? I know some run their guns filthy and just keep them wet. All opinions welcome. |
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It's a good idea.
Most new guns are coming with a sticky lube to protect it during shipping and that's not suitable for a shooting lube. Some new AR's have a noticeably sticky, tacky feel from this shipping lube. A classic case of problems is people buying a new Remington 870 Express and not bothering to read the manual OR give it a clean and using lube. They shoot cheap shells and the combination of the less well polished Express chamber, dirty ammo, steel case heads, and that sticky shipping lube all combine to cause failures to extract and eject. Of course, it's always the 870's fault. Removing the shipping lube and applying a using lube prevents problems, and allows a full in-depth inspection for factory defects, burrs, or foreign matter in hidden places. I've opened up many guns to find metal chips, wood chips and sawdust, and odd foreign material inside. I've also found some factory defects that needed the firearm to be immediately shipped back to the factory for correction. As an added benefit, the strip allows you to get thoroughly familiar with your new firearm. |
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I always strip and clean a gun when I first get it, new or used.
I do it because I like to know how it works, and how to strip it down. I also like to inspect and make sure nothing is worn, broken or defective. I clean my guns after each trip to the range. Depending on available time and how many rounds I do a quick clean and wipe down or a full strip down and deep clean. I am one of those freaks who likes to clean my stuff. I don't go overboard with white gloves or anything just like to keep them clean. |
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Lamented, you seem like you're a little conflicted on a lot of cleaning products... and I think you're overthinking this to the extreme.
Honestly there isn't any magic to this, go buy a can of regular Breakfree CLP, dissassmble and hose down the parts, brush them off with a toothbrush, wipe off with a rag, run a rod with a wet patch of clp or spray it right in the bore (it doesn't matter), use bore brush both ways (again doesn't matter as much as some believe just make sure it's all the way out before pulling back), follow with wet patch, then dry ones until you're not black anymore (some grey is fine...), and then lubricate again the parts needed to with CLP. (refer to the lubrication guides on the website here) This works with Ballistol or any other cleaner, lubricant, protectant you can find. Do it reguardless of new, used, dirty, wet, whatever. Also, periodically clean chamber with clp and chamber brush after cleaning the barrel and then swab the bore once more to get the rest of the clp out. If your gun doesn't work or rusts doing this, then you need a different gun. |
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My first AR was a Bushmaster. Immediately after buying it I just took it to the range and started shooting. It didn't fail or anything like that after about 200 rounds. Took it home and it cleaned off wonderfully.
Keep in mind this was a time when I didn't know about gun specific oils. When I cleaned it, I simply used motor oil and grease I had in the garage and a paper towel/screwdriver. It worked flawlessly but now I use gun specific items, oils, and grease. Now that I build rifles, I generally like to clean it and grease it properly. |
| If it was my gun, I'd do a complete, detailed cleaning before shooting it. Factory lube is more for protecting during shipping and handling. Usually some sticky thick stuff. I take all that off and replace with whatever my favorite gun oil is that day. I also like to put a touch of moly grease on the trigger and BCG. |
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