I've never used a bore guide before in my life.  Now it seems many places suggest it's use.  I remember I wrote in here before and I got kind of a mixed review, but really, I don't know exacly how it works.  I'm guessing it sticks in either the chamber or the muzzle and keeps you from dinging your cleaning rod against the rifling.  Would someone explain this a little better.  (also the ones with solvent ports ect??)  What are the advantages, and is there one I could use on a large variety of calibers?

Thanks
Gundraw

Bore guides (perhaps more correctly termed rod guides, since that’s what they guide) are inserted in the chamber end.

They minimize flexing by the rod.  They also help guide the rod into the bore.  This makes inserting the rod into the bore faster and easier, plus if you’re using – say - a patch on a jag, it keeps the patch from falling off.  It also prevents crud in the barrel from being pulled into the locking lugs.

While not much of an issue with AR’s since you can separate the upper and lower, a bore guide also prevents fluids from getting into the receiver area.

Solvent ports help you even further in avoiding getting solvents or oils all over the place.  They are less important in an AR than a bolt gun, since the latter may have a stock finish or an action bedding that can be damaged by these fluids.  Also, you want avoid getting fluids in the area of a bolt gun’s action or trigger mechanism.

There are some generic guides for bolt guns (I use a Stoney Point for bolt guns).  However, for an AR you really need one designed specifically for an AR.

I prefer a plastic rod guide to a metal one since the metal ones seem to get stuck in the chamber (for me, at least) and are hard to remove.  Admittedly, the Stoney Point has a metal barrel, but it has a plastic nose that goes into the chamber.

I very much like the Sinclair’s AR bore guide and add-on solvent port myself.  Both units are made of Delrin.  However, they stick out the rear of the receiver quite a bit and require a longer cleaning rod.  [url]www.sinclairintl.com/[/url]

Hey 199, my dewey rod guide that's made of metal gets stuck in the chamber every time I use it. I have to pull so hard on it that when it finally pulls out it dings up against the walls in the upper. Do you have any hints on getting these things out? It drives me nuts allways thinking my finish is scratched.

Thanks 556Cliff
 

[b]556Cliff[/b]

I also have the same accursed Dewey bore guide!!

Whenever I use it, I typically remove it with a wooden dowel rod maybe 8 inches or so in length and a light hammer.

I set the upper upside down, place the dowel rod at an angle with one end against the inside edge of the bore guide’s  1” diameter rear end piece (for want of a better term), and place the other end of the dowel rod somewhere near the upper’s front lug (where the pivot pin goes).  Tapping that end of the dowel rod with the hammer drives the bore guide out.

[b]Make sure you do not hit the upper with your hammer!![/b]

Because the dowel rod is angled, it may slip around a bit as you hit it.  This solution is awkward, but seems to work OK for me.  

Quit jamming the da-da-damn guide in the upper!

You have an o-ring that is locking up in the chamber.  Just push the quide in till it makes contact and just a touch more to seal.  Quit the full insertion stuff....and remember to lube the o-ring with what ever you're putting down the bore.....makes it easier to extract the guide.

My two AR-10 and one AR-15 quides used to drive me nuts.  Then I remembered what Dad said:  Son, you can't buy common sense at Sears&Roebuck..................so, I tried Wally World. [:D]

Dave S

Thanks guys,

I'll try what both of you said anything that would make that bore guide eazyer to pull out would be great.

The problem isn’t solely a matter of inserting the bore guide too firmly (though you certainly could cause it by doing that).

I’ve noticed that a metal bore guide tends to get stuck when doing an extensive cleaning job, but not when doing a quick cleaning job.

What seems to happen is that when you use a tight fitting patch, pushing it into the bore guide in turn pushes the bore guide forward and tends to wedge it into the chamber.  The more tight fitting patches you use, the worse the problem can become.

I guess you could minimize the problem by not using tight patches.

Or you could use a bore guide with a slightly larger inside diameter (to make it easier to push the tight patch through).  However, that allows more rod flexing.

The best solution, IMHO, is a plastic bore guide (though I am wondering how durable they are).