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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 6/12/2003 5:33:54 AM EST
I've got a pistol I want to refinish. I found these two on brownells.com. Has anyone tried them and what results did you get? Is their something better? I don't want tradional blueing.
Link Posted: 6/12/2003 5:56:57 AM EST
Check out [url]http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/[/url] Steve has great do-it-yourself projects for ARs, Mausers, and MNs, and has refinished some Mausers with spray on/bake on finishes. Also check out [url]http://pub86.ezboard.com/fmilitaryfirearmrestorationcornerfrm1[/url] Do a search on those finsihes, etc...a lot of good info there. Many folks have used the ones you mentioned, as well as the bake-on lacquers. I think they all work pretty well, just use good spray nozzels, keep them cleaned out, and have a few extras on hand. When they clog, it's hard to get an even coat. And it will stink up your house when you "bake" it in the oven from what I hear. --Otter
Link Posted: 6/12/2003 5:57:59 AM EST
I've tried both GUNKOTE (flat black) and Norell's Moly Resin (Semi-gloss black) on a FAL and AK-74 I built. I had better results with the gunkote. It seemed a little thicker and more resistant to peeling or chipping. I'll admit that my application conditions were not ideal, but were above average. Surface prep and keeping the parts warm while applying the finish are keys to success. Some people swear by Norrells moly resin. I do think i would be a better coating for maybe doing AR uppers and lowers (aluminum), but I am no expert. I'd go with the gunkote. Order gunkote direct here[url]http://www.kgcoatings.com/[/url] you get more for your money. Here's a good link for moly resin[url]http://www.funsupply.com/firearms/finish.html[/url] I also ordered a $9.95 air brush from harbor freight to apply the coating. It was kind of a POS but got me by, YMMV
Link Posted: 6/13/2003 6:15:40 AM EST
I used Brownells bake on teflon/moly to refinish a Sig P226. Turned out great, just pay attention to all of the little steps to prep the parts.
Link Posted: 6/13/2003 7:52:44 AM EST
i am about to refinish my springfield XD in norrells moly resin. it was a toss up between that and gun kote. ill let you know how it turns out and post some pics. -Spaceman
Link Posted: 6/13/2003 8:14:22 AM EST
[Last Edit: 6/13/2003 8:16:22 AM EST by cnatra]
I've got GunKote on my stainless 24" HB AR (barrel & gas block only) [img]http://photos.ar15.com/ImageGallery/IG_LoadImage.asp?iImageUnq=3426[/img] I like it a lot. I doubt this barrel will be subject to the wear & tear a pistol will receive though. [url]http://metalcraft-ar15.com/accessories.htm[/url] [blue]GUN KOTE Was originally developed as a protective finish for use on military weapons. It is durable, and has excellent impact resistance. Is not as easily worn off as chemically blacked treatments (Black Oxide). Should cause no problems in close tolerance fits (coating thickness is .0004). Is non-reflective Will not attract dirt or dust, and resists most oils and solovents. Protects against corrosion, (passed 1000 hr 5% salt spray tests) Is heat dissapating to help keep parts cool.[/blue] quote from above site
Link Posted: 6/13/2003 8:42:01 AM EST
FWIW, my gunsmith uses GUN-KOTE, and as soon as he gets a bigger oven he's to GUN-KOTE my '06 Rem 700, which is too long for his present oven. I have seen numerous parts and shorter barrels and they look great. BTW, [b]ya CANNOT use your wife's oven[/b], as after being used for parts, rifles or pistol the GUN-KOTE fumes stay in oven for years, no cleaning it out, so make certain ya have a dedicated oven to use.
Link Posted: 6/15/2003 2:46:30 PM EST
I used the Norrel's product on a bunch of magazines a decade ago. They have held up well, a little chipping around the mag catch portion of the mag. They were sprayed with a bull-shit el-cheapo air brush. Here lately I've been sold on Lauer Custom and the coating they sell. I've had 4 twenty rounders refinished by them and they are awsome! I'm saving up to buy a HVLP gun for my compressor and then I'm gonna go crazy./
Link Posted: 6/16/2003 12:19:12 PM EST
I call BS on the fumes in the Oven statement. I use my oven to cure gunkote and the fumes and smell DO NOT stay in the oven. There is no adverse affect of using your oven to bake the gun....the smell is gone out of the house in an hour or so.
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 6:02:47 AM EST
BTW, ya CANNOT use your wife's oven, as after being used for parts, rifles or pistol the GUN-KOTE fumes stay in oven for years, no cleaning it out, so make certain ya have a dedicated oven to use.[b] Ouote from mr_wilson: [/b] I call BS on the fumes in the Oven statement. I use my oven to cure gunkote and the fumes and smell DO NOT stay in the oven. There is no adverse affect of using your oven to bake the gun....the smell is gone out of the house in an hour or so. [b] Quote from dougjones32 [/b] OK which is it. I was going to use the wife's oven but this might change my mind. Who know's for sure????
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 7:32:56 AM EST
Check out the links I posted earlier re: these coatings and lingering smell. General consensus there says that the smell is REALLY bad for a few hours, and may linger for a few days (diminished), but will not permanently stay in the oven. --Otter
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 8:03:35 AM EST
Sorry if ya think it's BS, but my gunsmith told me it's in the GUNKOTE material/instructions, and I'll take his word for it, anyday, over folks I don't know....... Mike
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 8:30:17 AM EST
For what it's worth, I used the wife's oven on my two projects, with no Ill effects. Yea the house smelled for a couple hours afterwards, so I opened the windows, turned on the fan and had a few beers while it aired out. The next day the wife cooked a casserole in the same oven. Must not have tainted the oven, otherwise I'm sure I would have heard about it. YMMV P.S. the casserole didn't taste like Gunkote either.
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 8:43:38 AM EST
[Last Edit: 6/18/2003 9:04:59 AM EST by underdog75]
Ive got a buddy that does powdercoating,Kg guncoat,Duracoat,and others for a living....Ive had him do work for me with all 3 and would recommend Duracoat over Kg guncoat.Duracoat is more resistant to scratches and chemicals and IMHO does a MUCH nicer job.On the plus side duracoat doesnt need to be baked at as high of a temp, or for as long.My buddy tell me that duracoat doesnt need to be baked at all if youre willing to let it sit for a week or so...All my stuff has been baked so i cant comment on that..The only down side i can see is that duracoat is more $$$$$ and must be mixed more "closely"...Anyway hope this helps..........UNDERDOG [url]http://www.4matman.com/rsr/index1.html[/url] [img]HTTP://users.adelphia.net/~masine/mossberg.jpg[/img] mosserg590a1 in OD Duracoat... edited to add link
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 8:57:42 AM EST
I've used the teflon moly stuff that Brownells sells more than a few times in my kitchen oven on small parts and haven't had any lingering effects. Sure it stinks while you're doing it, but my frozen pizzas still taste the same.
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 8:59:42 AM EST
i just finished my XD. looks really nice. ill post pics in the handguns forum. the norrell resin didnt mess up my oven, ymmv. -Spaceman
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 5:08:58 PM EST
Spaceman Spiff, Why not post pics off this thread? It might not be exact, but it gives people who do a search a good idea of what their results will be.
Link Posted: 6/19/2003 10:59:47 AM EST
I've used Brownell's teflon moly and their Alumahyde, and Norrell's moly resin. Haven't used GunKote but saw a frame that Mac's did and it looked very good. My thoughts: Teflon moly is so thick it's hard to work with it. Plus it clogs up the spray can nozzle / airbrush pretty quickly in spite of your efforts to keep it clean. It wears OK though. I'd stay away from Alumahyde on moving parts. It galls up pretty bad, causing the parts to stick, it takes a week to cure, and is not very scratch resistant. It seems to be OK for cosmetic uses though. Norrell's resin is much thinner than teflon-moly, which means you go through it a little faster but it is easier to work with. Meaning it's easy to reach the desired level of coverage without getting runs and sags. Another plus is that you can mix and match colors with it, something you can't do with a spray can. As a result this is my current favorite finish. I've done a couple of pistols, several AR receivers, and a handful of various scope mounts and parts.
Link Posted: 6/19/2003 11:08:16 AM EST
I just got my Molly Resin shipment in and am going to give it a try on my AR 80% completed lower, which is completed now except for the finish. I feel good about all the praise this product is getting. I feel like I made a good choice.
Link Posted: 6/19/2003 11:10:03 AM EST
[Last Edit: 6/19/2003 11:11:20 AM EST by ken_mays]
Brownell's teflon moly: After a couple years: [img]http://grahamcracka.dns2go.com/sistema3.jpg[/img] Teflon-moly slide, Alumahyde II (OD) frame: [img]http://members.aol.com/kinduj/k40.jpg[/img] Norrell flat black: [img]http://grahamcracka.dns2go.com/Dsc00184.jpg[/img] Norrell flat black mixed with gray, and artificially weathered to match upper: [img]http://grahamcracka.dns2go.com/arlower2/mysp1_4.jpg[/img] Another AR, furniture painted with same Alumahyde II OD: [img]http://grahamcracka.dns2go.com/dissipator.jpg[/img]
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