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Posted: 8/31/2008 9:41:44 AM EDT
| I'm in the market for a small air compressor for cleaning and applying finishes. Also some small shop tools/tire inflation. Any recommendations/advice? Thanks! |
| I bought at Home Depot on sale a small 100 psi compressor that came with a nail gun. Use the compressor all the time for blowing out solvents, cleaning off the press and found the nail gun to be more useful than I had thought. Because it has a small tank (doesn't take up much room under my bench) the compressor tends to go on after short time cleaning. Considering another compressor with larger tank or adding another tank for more volume for the compressed air. Be sure to add a water filter to the output. |
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I'd ask in the EE/WTB section. In my experience you'll get much value buying a used Binks ("low-boys" are nice), Bostitch, Ridgid, Chicago Pneumatic, Honda, DeVilbiss, Campbell Hausfeld, Hitachi, or DeWalt (in that order. JMO). If it was owned by someone who took care of it (like an old man who used it non-commercially), all the better. You probably already know this, but avoid Chinese shit like the plague! I'm speaking from bitter experience.  I've used air compressors for four decades (contractor, machinist, printer, etc... Somehow, everything I do seems to involve compressors  ). I've fallen for the price of Chinese crap four or five times now, and was sorry every single time (NEVER go into Harbor Freight or HOBO's drunk!). When they pop a ring or break, you're screwed; you're not likely to find parts anywhere.Also, the world is getting more complicated. Compressors and things like nail-guns have advanced a lot in the last ten years! Stuff that used to demand a lot of CFM (again, like nail-guns) have become much more efficient. So have compressors. You used to have to worry about buying the largest possible tank, but that's no longer true. Hell, a lot of modern air tools / compressors don't even need or have air tanks. In a way, the no-tank compressors (& Chi-Com imports) are good news for you. You can buy a great, used, high quality compressor cheaper than ever before.  Oh,... if you're going to do painting, invest in a dryer!  |
I finally got off my ass and purchased a small compressor for my shop.   www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=9189092 |
That is the only draw back so far, to the compressor I purchased above........... that lil’ sucker is loud!  When I brought it home and plugged it in for the first time, Frau Quib came running from the house out through the garage and into my shop. She thought I had finally done myself in! 
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If your compressor pump isn't oil-free and you plan on airbrushing you will need a filter bank containing a water separator, a coalescing oil filter, and maybe an airflow regulator. I don't paint but air compressors are a part of my trade. For maintenance: Routinely inspect air filter, keep it clean and replace when it gets scummy. Drain the tank when you are finished with the compressor, this will remove moisture/condensate from the receiver. For oil lubricated pumps, ND-30 is what you use. Stay away from pumps with oversized flywheels that pump up fast. These are known as 'cheaters' and basically they are revved up to give you air faster, at the expense of the pump's service life. If you want a commercial grade air compressor, look up Champion Air Compressors. A 5hp reciprocating pump is all you will ever need. |
Here's the deal on air compressors: 1. Always buy more compressor than you think you'll need now. I bought a little pancake compressor for $169. I was just going to use it to blow out guns, fill tires, etc. Then I decided I wanted to run tools. Wrong! Sold it to a bud for $100, bought a Campbell Hausfeld 26 gallon portable. Biggest 110v portable you can buy. Now I can run impact, ratchet, air hammer, etc. Even so, when I use it for grinding or drilling, it still has to catch up (right about the time I'm ready to take a break). For continuous duty tools you really need a big stationary unit. 2. Direct drive compressors are LOUD and run hotter, and they wear out much faster than cast iron belt drive oil lubricated units. Direct drive turn at 3450 rpm. Mine's the latter, turns about 900 rpm. It sure is quieter and at the rate I use it, my kids will inherit it. 3. Watch for cheapo Chinese stuff. Stick with C-H, Ingersoll Rand, etc. which I believe are still Made In USA (my CH was). 4. Horsepower ratings mean nothing. That "5 HP" unit that runs off a 15 amp 110 circuit? 1.5 HP max. Compressor mfrs. ALWAYS lie about horsepower. It's not physically possible to get more than 1.5 hp out of a 110 volt wall outlet. (15 amps X 117 volts =1700 watts gross; one HP is 746 watts). 5. Look for CFM ratings at 90 PSI. Even these are inflated--std. is something like 50 degrees Farenheit and 25% humidity. The corner of my garage where mine sits (Houston) is 110 degrees and 75% humidity. 6. If at all possible, run a new circuit for your compressor--a 20 amp breaker dedicated to the compressor. |
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I didn't say the champion was wired 110v. I said it was a commercial grade unit. The motor is rated 5 horsepower, the pump is just a pump. These are 240v 30amp motors and the pump generates about 17 SCFM at around 175 psi. BTW Ingersoll Rand compressors are garbage. www.gardnerdenverproducts.com/index.aspx?id=2732 edited to add: I've shitcanned several I/R pumps with less than 2 years of service. I've replaced many champion pumps as well...but those typically last 20-40 years when properly maintained. And thats with them running everday. |
I’m familiar with what makes a good quality compressor. As you can see from my tools of the trade pictured below, I own an air tool or two. But seeing how I’m not running an aircraft sheet metal shop out of my garage, the compressor I have pictured above suits me just fine.   |
I can smell Marvel Magic Mystery Oil. 
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Actually, I don’t remember what brand of oil I lubed my airtools with. Last time I filled up my oil bottle was 1999 while working GA in Germany. And I filled it up with what ever my employer was using for the shops equipment. Maybe it was the German equivalent of Marvel. The drunk that my boss was, it could have been Pilsner for all I know.
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Certain tool cfm requirements here. Why bigger compressors are better! Depending on what you're painting, you don't always need a lot of air. I used to do a bunch of airbrushing as a kid using an oiless (The wicked noisy ones) compressor feeding an empty freon tank. Never had an issue with moisture due to the low cfm requirements not condensing the moisture to any extent. A smaller unit like Quib (Thank you for the help btw) is good for cleaning, tires, non-commercial level nailer/roofer use. It will run tools like an impact gun or air ratchet, but the tank will have to be recharged at every few nuts/bolts. Don't bother buying a unit that comes with a tool kit if you're looking at it because it comes with an impact gun. JUNK! Only more expensive units from Blue Point, IR, etc will work, and then you won't have enough air. You won't find a good IG a Pep Boys, Advance, etc. |
I bought it mainly for small chores around the house. Airing up soccer balls, the tires on Frau Quibs Jetta, my truck tires, and last on my mind of course was for use on my rifles. I fully understand that it’s use is limited to small projects and never intended it for anything else. |
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I guess I shoulda clarified. I wasn't attacking your compressor, just trying to give him some sort of benchmark. I ended up with a 19cfm, 60 gal monster after having one like yours. But then, I do a lot of personal bike/truck/tractor work and needed AIR. Crazy thing is that it's biggest workout to date is the damn caulking tube cannon I linked to. he As for it's use on rifles, I just used mine to remove a ton of Hoppes loosened Wolf puke that was inside the bowels of my bolt. Much easier than mining with a Qtip. |
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I suspected this could be a pretty involved decision.hinking.gif Just to clarify, my primary purpose is for cleaning guns, blowing sand out of the kids toys, etc. Tire inflation, blow-up toys and balls for the kids is a close second. All the painting I will do will be on guns/gun parts, so I was thinking airbrush or small paintgun. I have an airless for spraying deck stain and such. The advice to buy more than I think I might need is very sound. I have found that to be true with just about every purchase I have ever made. I don't think I ever felt I should have gotten a smaller/cheaper gun/optic/tool/widget. But a benchmark, like "this is the MINIMUM in my experience" is kinda what I'm looking for. Thanks again everybody for chiming in. Oh, the only airtool I was planning on running is a nailer. I'm framing in the unfinished portion of my basement and can probably borrow a buddy's nailgun. I figure this might bump up the requirements some, but I am unsure how much. |
"Frau Quib, German equivalent of Marvel, Pilsner"? Hey, you weren't born in Munich too, were you?  My stationary compressor is an ancient 220/240v Ingersoll Rand V-twin, 8 HP on a vertical 60-gallon. I'm sure it'll outlast me. My portable is a peppy little 110/120v 5-HP Binks Low-Boy with dual 12 gallon tanks. Tough little bastard (fell off of two roofs so far .... that I know of) that can keep up with three 8 ~ 10-d nail guns non-stop. |
| Quib a plywood box with the pink insulation board glued inside works wonders when we are doing finish work with customers still in the home or we want to hear what each other is saying. Funny how it is never in the box when my wife needs to talk. She is a siant for dealing with me. |
| If you are going to do house painting I strongly suggest a good airless sprayer. I did the outside of my last house twice and painting under the eaves with the sprayer compared to doing it with a brush was a real time and muscle saver. Also, no splatter to irritate and concern the neighbors. With the airless you have the nozzle on a long hose so do not have to carry around the paint container. |
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For cleaning guns, make sure what ever compressor you get has a tank (which QUIB's does). I have one with out a tank at home and since it continues to run and vent, appears to generate moisture easier than a tank compressor. At the intermittent and low cfm I was using the old centrifugal moisture separators are marginal at best. Now days have a tank added and works fine (the shop has an air compressor that is little larger than me, along with the larger solvent tanks) |
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