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Link Posted: 7/1/2019 3:07:37 AM EDT
[#1]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

zero gas.  is your gas tube seated correctly in the GB?  i.e. roll pin through the gas tube, not in front of gas tube.  gas tube upside down?  if adj GB, maybe it's shipped "closed"?
View Quote
I will shoot some compressed air thru the gas tube. Need to do that before I determine it not to be user error.
Link Posted: 7/1/2019 7:19:53 PM EDT
[#2]
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Quoted:
I really like my LUTH-AR stock
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I like mine too, but I need to redo the Loctite. The knobs keep coming loose.
Link Posted: 7/1/2019 9:27:23 PM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I like mine too, but I need to redo the Loctite. The knobs keep coming loose.
View Quote
Vibra-Tite VC Series threadlockers are designed to be adjusted, removed, and reused. They utilize a blend of acrylic resins in a solvent base, which are applied to fasteners and dried first, then installed into mating part.

The primary difference between all these products is the solvent carrier. VC-3 is Methyl Ethyl Ketone, VC-4 is Ethyl Acetate, VC-5 is Methyl Propyl Ketone, and VC-6 is Dimethyl Carbonate. Each of these solvents reacts differently when in contact with specific plastics. If you have a metal fastener; whether installed into a mating metal or plastic part, we recommend VC-3. Apply VC-3 to the metal fastener then allow it to fully dry. The MEK solvent should have evaporated leaving behind an inert polymer which will not react with other materials. You can then install the metal fastener into the plastic mating part.

However if you plan to use these threadlockers directly on a plastic part, please consult the following table as a reference and be sure to TEST FIRST before using in production.
Link Posted: 7/3/2019 12:20:32 AM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Vibra-Tite VC Series threadlockers are designed to be adjusted, removed, and reused. They utilize a blend of acrylic resins in a solvent base, which are applied to fasteners and dried first, then installed into mating part.

The primary difference between all these products is the solvent carrier. VC-3 is Methyl Ethyl Ketone, VC-4 is Ethyl Acetate, VC-5 is Methyl Propyl Ketone, and VC-6 is Dimethyl Carbonate. Each of these solvents reacts differently when in contact with specific plastics. If you have a metal fastener; whether installed into a mating metal or plastic part, we recommend VC-3. Apply VC-3 to the metal fastener then allow it to fully dry. The MEK solvent should have evaporated leaving behind an inert polymer which will not react with other materials. You can then install the metal fastener into the plastic mating part.

However if you plan to use these threadlockers directly on a plastic part, please consult the following table as a reference and be sure to TEST FIRST before using in production.
View Quote
Eh, I have a bottle of Rocksett.
Link Posted: 7/3/2019 5:23:13 AM EDT
[#5]
Got my 20" 6.5 Creedmoor done with the exception of optics and mount. Looking for recommendations for a unimount with a 20 MOA cant. Thanks in advance.
Link Posted: 7/3/2019 5:25:38 AM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Got my 20" 6.5 Creedmoor done with the exception of optics and mount. Looking for recommendations for a unimount with a 20 MOA cant. Thanks in advance.
View Quote
LaRue
Link Posted: 7/3/2019 10:39:53 AM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Got my 20" 6.5 Creedmoor done with the exception of optics and mount. Looking for recommendations for a unimount with a 20 MOA cant. Thanks in advance.
View Quote
I went with a Badger on my AR-10.
https://www.badgerordnance.com/unimounts/30-mm-1-piece-unimount-ultra-high-1-4-high-4-65-long.html
Link Posted: 7/3/2019 8:41:12 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Got my 20" 6.5 Creedmoor done with the exception of optics and mount. Looking for recommendations for a unimount with a 20 MOA cant. Thanks in advance.
View Quote
Warne MSR.

I have a 20 and a 0 MOA, and a few of my coworkers have them. Excellent mount, and reasonably-priced.
Link Posted: 7/4/2019 1:41:33 AM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Got my 20" 6.5 Creedmoor done with the exception of optics and mount. Looking for recommendations for a unimount with a 20 MOA cant. Thanks in advance.
View Quote
The fact is, there are quite a few good mounts out there these days. The ones mentioned above are good. And I've been pleased with my ADM mount, and the GG&G I picked up for my brother awhile back seems to be good as well.
Link Posted: 7/13/2019 6:20:08 PM EDT
[#10]
Anyone know where all the m5e1 fde builder sets have gone? Was hoping for a 4th of July sale but it seems like there’s really none left or priced high.
Link Posted: 7/13/2019 8:59:10 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Anyone know where all the m5e1 fde builder sets have gone? Was hoping for a 4th of July sale but it seems like there’s really none left or priced high.
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Bkfirearms is a go to spot.  Bet they have them
Link Posted: 7/14/2019 3:31:08 AM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Anyone know where all the m5e1 fde builder sets have gone? Was hoping for a 4th of July sale but it seems like there’s really none left or priced high.
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Umm..there available right now at aero site..just looked in stock..also aim surplus I think.
Link Posted: 7/15/2019 11:00:52 AM EDT
[#13]
You missed the July 4th sales, a little late now I think.  Aero had a 15% off sale for everything on their site for a few days but it's over now.
Link Posted: 7/15/2019 11:14:12 AM EDT
[#14]
These are the parts I picked up during the July 4th sales.



Partial assembly, barrel needs to be dimpled and sandblasted.  Then painted.



It is strange how the light reflects on the endplate and castle nut differently than on the QD socket and bottom rail that were painted with cerakote fde.  Looks better in person.
Link Posted: 7/18/2019 9:34:47 PM EDT
[#15]
Finally got her together. Had a defective gas tube at first and @SLRRifleworks sent me a replacement which arrived in a day.

Now flawless function. Love it.

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 7/19/2019 2:10:39 AM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
These are the parts I picked up during the July 4th sales.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ee64/jbrackjr/0/a23b12f5-9e6e-4296-b420-6e726743fdb3-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

Partial assembly, barrel needs to be dimpled and sandblasted.  Then painted.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ee64/jbrackjr/0/09a51905-c4f5-47fc-9dd0-0a8d68c0a66b-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

It is strange how the light reflects on the endplate and castle nut differently than on the QD socket and bottom rail that were painted with cerakote fde.  Looks better in person.
View Quote
Dimpled for the gas block? Just get a SLR dimpling jig. I bought one for my barrel and it works great.

https://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=579

SLR Rifleworks AR 15 Gas Block Dimpling Jig
Link Posted: 7/19/2019 5:06:13 AM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
These are the parts I picked up during the July 4th sales.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ee64/jbrackjr/0/a23b12f5-9e6e-4296-b420-6e726743fdb3-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

Partial assembly, barrel needs to be dimpled and sandblasted.  Then painted.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ee64/jbrackjr/0/09a51905-c4f5-47fc-9dd0-0a8d68c0a66b-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

It is strange how the light reflects on the endplate and castle nut differently than on the QD socket and bottom rail that were painted with cerakote fde.  Looks better in person.
View Quote
imgur.com
Link Posted: 7/20/2019 1:21:04 PM EDT
[#18]
My M5E1. Can't decide to keep the 16" barrel to go 18" or 20"
http://imgur.com/gallery/iq3133O
Link Posted: 7/20/2019 3:37:05 PM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
http://imgur.com/gallery/iq3133Ohttp://imgur.com/gallery/iq3133O

My M5E1. Can't decide to keep the 16" barrel to go 18" or 20"
View Quote

Looks good. As to barrel length, leave it and build another

Also click edit and copy this link below into your post

https://i.imgur.com/NW5LrNN_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium


@CMCctx
Link Posted: 7/20/2019 3:57:51 PM EDT
[#20]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

https://i.imgur.com/NW5LrNN_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium
Looks good. As to barrel length, leave it and build another

Also click edit and copy this link below into your post

https://i.imgur.com/NW5LrNN_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/472704/Screenshot_20190720-123235_Chrome-1023637.jpg

@CMCctx
View Quote
No change. Never posted pics before so I'm not sure what I'm doing incorrectly. Been creeping on this thread since last August and finished mine but never joined in!
Link Posted: 7/20/2019 4:42:01 PM EDT
[#21]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

No change. Never posted pics before so I'm not sure what I'm doing incorrectly. Been creeping on this thread since last August and finished mine but never joined in!
View Quote
You should see them now. Post count has something to do with the ability to post pics from an off site host. They ask established shitposters such as myself to approve the pics.
Link Posted: 7/20/2019 9:21:04 PM EDT
[#22]
Can someone please confirm the pivot & take-down pin diameters and lengths for the Aero Precision M5's...

My DPMS LR-308 prints show a dimension of (diameter) .275"/.276" +/- .0015" for the pin diameters.
The lower (frame) pin hole diameters are listed at .278" according to my prints...
The pivot pin length is listed as 1.640" and take-down pin is listed at .1.222" .

We have two brand new Aero Precsion M5 Uppers w/ High Profile Rails at the shop and want to confirm
correct pin set dimensions...The package says .2795" pin diameter but that's not a true DPMS/SR-25
pattern for the 308 platform...

They may have to go on EE if we can't get the upper and the DPMS lowers to marry properly...

Thanks in advance.
Link Posted: 7/21/2019 11:34:27 AM EDT
[#23]
these are what I use in one of my aero m5's

http://ar15xtreme.com/store/product/aero-308-pattern-extended-front-rear-tdps-detents-and-springs/
Link Posted: 7/21/2019 2:07:08 PM EDT
[#24]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

You should see them now. Post count has something to do with the ability to post pics from an off site host. They ask established shitposters such as myself to approve the pics.
View Quote
Keeping the little man down! Well I'm done lurking so I think post count will rise now!
Link Posted: 7/21/2019 2:44:11 PM EDT
[#25]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
these are what I use in one of my aero m5's

http://ar15xtreme.com/store/product/aero-308-pattern-extended-front-rear-tdps-detents-and-springs/
View Quote
Thanks, can you confirm pin diameters ? Pin lengths seem fine.
Link Posted: 7/21/2019 3:12:47 PM EDT
[#26]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Can someone please confirm the pivot & take-down pin diameters and lengths for the Aero Precision M5's...

My DPMS LR-308 prints show a dimension of (diameter) .275"/.276" +/- .0015" for the pin diameters.
The lower (frame) pin hole diameters are listed at .278" according to my prints...
The pivot pin length is listed as 1.640" and take-down pin is listed at .1.222" .

We have two brand new Aero Precsion M5 Uppers w/ High Profile Rails at the shop and want to confirm
correct pin set dimensions...The package says .2795" pin diameter but that's not a true DPMS/SR-25
pattern for the 308 platform...

They may have to go on EE if we can't get the upper and the DPMS lowers to marry properly...

Thanks in advance.
View Quote
I can't say what the exact dimensions are, but when putting mine together I looked all around and kept hearing that it's best to just use Aero pins. Not that others won't work or be quality, I just wanted to make dang sure the first time worked.

I don't have a set of calipers but I'll figure out a way to at least closely measure mine.
Link Posted: 7/21/2019 6:01:22 PM EDT
[#27]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Can someone please confirm the pivot & take-down pin diameters and lengths for the Aero Precision M5's...

My DPMS LR-308 prints show a dimension of (diameter) .275"/.276" +/- .0015" for the pin diameters.
The lower (frame) pin hole diameters are listed at .278" according to my prints...
The pivot pin length is listed as 1.640" and take-down pin is listed at .1.222" .

We have two brand new Aero Precsion M5 Uppers w/ High Profile Rails at the shop and want to confirm
correct pin set dimensions...The package says .2795" pin diameter but that's not a true DPMS/SR-25
pattern for the 308 platform...

They may have to go on EE if we can't get the upper and the DPMS lowers to marry properly...

Thanks in advance.
View Quote
@Dr69r
pivot pin: dia: .276" UHL: 1.590"
TD pin: dia: .276" UHL: 1.070"

my limited experience with trying to mate a DPMS lower with an Aero M5 upper is that they don't fit.  the problem is the radius of curvature at the buffer tube upright is different on the two.  prevents the upper from being able to close fully on the DPMS lower, unless you take a file to it and remove some aluminum, easiest to remove it from the lower, but then you have a DPMS lower that will henceforth only mate nicely with Aero uppers.  If you try to put a DPMS upper on this now modified DPMS lower, you'll have an unsightly gap in the area where you had to remove material.

YMMV.
Link Posted: 7/21/2019 6:55:09 PM EDT
[#28]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
@Dr69r
pivot pin: dia: .276" UHL: 1.590"
TD pin: dia: .276" UHL: 1.070"

my limited experience with trying to mate a DPMS lower with an Aero M5 upper is that they don't fit.  the problem is the radius of curvature at the buffer tube upright is different on the two.  prevents the upper from being able to close fully on the DPMS lower, unless you take a file to it and remove some aluminum, easiest to remove it from the lower, but then you have a DPMS lower that will henceforth only mate nicely with Aero uppers.  If you try to put a DPMS upper on this now modified DPMS lower, you'll have an unsightly gap in the area where you had to remove material.

YMMV.
View Quote
Thank you rpol98,

I will test fit the upper and lower mating surfaces with buffer tube attached to see what its looks like.
I will report back on any fitment issues if any...thanks again.
Link Posted: 7/22/2019 10:32:27 AM EDT
[#29]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I will shoot some compressed air thru the gas tube. Need to do that before I determine it not to be user error.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I will shoot some compressed air thru the gas tube. Need to do that before I determine it not to be user error.
A can of compressed air for cleaning a keyboard is great for this, I stick the little plastic tube in the gas tube after I have plugged the chamber end to verify I have good air flow. But I also dimple every barrel now to eliminate this.

I have a couple of shims from .025" up to .035" thicknesses I use for a spacer between the block and shoulder to verify, usually I find the gap to be around .030".

I found this post from RLR350 yrs ago, it's solid advice for set screw style blocks

Quoted:Determining if you need a gap for the missing hand guard cap is pretty easy to do without tools. First, the hole in the gas block is bigger than the gas port so you have some room for a little error. To determine if you need an extra space between the shoulder and the gas block, put the gas block on, spin it upside down and center the set screw hole over the gas port. This will reveal whether a gap is needed and if so, how much.
Link Posted: 7/22/2019 11:30:15 AM EDT
[#30]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
@Dr69r
pivot pin: dia: .276" UHL: 1.590"
TD pin: dia: .276" UHL: 1.070"

my limited experience with trying to mate a DPMS lower with an Aero M5 upper is that they don't fit.  the problem is the radius of curvature at the buffer tube upright is different on the two.  prevents the upper from being able to close fully on the DPMS lower, unless you take a file to it and remove some aluminum, easiest to remove it from the lower, but then you have a DPMS lower that will henceforth only mate nicely with Aero uppers.  If you try to put a DPMS upper on this now modified DPMS lower, you'll have an unsightly gap in the area where you had to remove material.

YMMV.
View Quote
Fitment confirmed (albeit very tight) between the Aero M5 upper and a Noreen Forged 7075 AR-308 lower using standard length .275"/.276" diameter pivot and
take-down pins...

@ rpotL98, your were correct in that the fit was very tight and required tapping the rear take-down pin in with the back of a screwdriver or small mallet.
There was a small gap (about .012"/.015" or so) between the lower buffer tower radii where you can see three rub marks on both lower and upper once
fitted and then separated.

Also test fit a DPMS LR-308 upper to the Noreen lower and fitment went very well overall, there was a very small gap (about .002"/.003") in the buffer tower area
and no rub marks at all, where the Aero M5 upper had a variation in dimensions and had those light rub marks on the mating surfaces...There was very little
play (about .001"/.002") between the DPMS upper and Noreen forged lower...

What we forgot to check was rail height differences when we ordered the LW free float rails (hand-guards) the DPMS upper was a low profile (.162" at the tang) and
the Aero M5 was a high profile rail height (.210" at the tang). Rookie mistake, but will have to source some low cost (preferably USA made) LW low pro hand-guards
to match the Aero M5 rail height...

Thanks again @rpotL98 for your help.
Link Posted: 7/24/2019 2:16:10 AM EDT
[#31]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

A can of compressed air for cleaning a keyboard is great for this, I stick the little plastic tube in the gas tube after I have plugged the chamber end to verify I have good air flow. But I also dimple every barrel now to eliminate this.

I have a couple of shims from .025" up to .035" thicknesses I use for a spacer between the block and shoulder to verify, usually I find the gap to be around .030".

I found this post from RLR350 yrs ago, it's solid advice for set screw style blocks
View Quote
There was an obstruction in gas tube. Should've ran air through it before putting it together like I usually do. SLR sent a new gas tube real quick and now it's running great.
Link Posted: 8/1/2019 8:32:33 PM EDT
[#32]
Aero M5 pistol I built.

Link Posted: 8/3/2019 2:34:14 AM EDT
[#33]
Attachment Attached File

Attachment Attached File


I just ordered everything to complete my lower. I *finally* finished the parts list.

Lower:
Giessele / Aero LPK
Radian Talon Safety
Larue MBT
Knights SR25 Bolt Catch
Larue 762 Buffer Tube
CTR w/ Larue RISR
Limbsaver Gel buttpad for CTR
Larue POD
Accushot Monopod
JP Captive buffer system 762 carbine
HK G28 battlegrip RAL8000

Upper:(I only have the receiver and the URX)
URX4 13.5
Criterion 16" Rifle Gas
Surefire Socom Brake
SLR Rifleworks .750 Sentry
Melonite Gas Tube
Strike polymer dust cover

Unknown: Optic... what is the current favorite?

I'm going with a giessele or Scalar mount.
Link Posted: 8/7/2019 1:59:30 AM EDT
[#34]
The journey begins with a $97 bolt catch...

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 8/7/2019 11:36:42 AM EDT
[#35]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/284035/g28_png-1040427.JPG
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/284035/g28-2_png-1040428.JPG

I just ordered everything to complete my lower. I *finally* finished the parts list.

Lower:
Giessele / Aero LPK
Radian Talon Safety
Larue MBT
Knights SR25 Bolt Catch
Larue 762 Buffer Tube
CTR w/ Larue RISR
Limbsaver Gel buttpad for CTR
Larue POD
Accushot Monopod
JP Captive buffer system 762 carbine
HK G28 battlegrip RAL8000

Upper:(I only have the receiver and the URX)
URX4 13.5
Criterion 16" Rifle Gas
Surefire Socom Brake
SLR Rifleworks .750 Sentry
Melonite Gas Tube
Strike polymer dust cover

Unknown: Optic... what is the current favorite?

I'm going with a giessele or Scalar mount.
View Quote
I assume you have not shot the 16” criterion yet? Curious what you think of it or why you chose it. I am torn between this and Faxon match fluted and also torn between 16 and 18. Not trying to build a light weight rifle but I also don’t want a pig.
Link Posted: 8/7/2019 1:29:48 PM EDT
[#36]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I assume you have not shot the 16” criterion yet? Curious what you think of it or why you chose it. I am torn between this and Faxon match fluted and also torn between 16 and 18. Not trying to build a light weight rifle but I also don’t want a pig.
View Quote
I have not fired a 16" 762 gun yet unfortunately.

Several reasons:

I wanted rifle gas - obviously this platform is sensitive to gas Rifle is good for all your run of the mill reasons you've seen before.

I wanted a "short" range 762. There is very little difference between 16" and 18" when you are shooting out to 800m. So I opted for the handier length

Criterion has pretty good reputation. Its not an extreme match barrel, but I expect pretty good results from the M118LR chambered piece.
Link Posted: 8/7/2019 5:46:01 PM EDT
[#37]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I have not fired a 16" 762 gun yet unfortunately.

Several reasons:

I wanted rifle gas - obviously this platform is sensitive to gas Rifle is good for all your run of the mill reasons you've seen before.

I wanted a "short" range 762. There is very little difference between 16" and 18" when you are shooting out to 800m. So I opted for the handier length

Criterion has pretty good reputation. Its not an extreme match barrel, but I expect pretty good results from the M118LR chambered piece.
View Quote
Our Criterion 6.5 CM Fluted 22" Bbl. is sub MOA with most good factory loads, expect similar results with your Criterion barrel...Keep in mind
that the 308 Win caliber version may not be as accurate at medium to long rage as the 6.5 CM version...

Good luck
Link Posted: 8/8/2019 1:20:19 AM EDT
[#38]
This has probably been answered but I can't seem to get the search to kick back results.

Today I bought an assembled M5 16in upper from Aero and a Toolcraft BCG.

Is checking the headspace suggested in this situation?
Link Posted: 8/8/2019 7:42:55 PM EDT
[#39]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
This has probably been answered but I can't seem to get the search to kick back results.

Today I bought an assembled M5 16in upper from Aero and a Toolcraft BCG.

Is checking the headspace suggested in this situation?
View Quote
Headspace is between the bolt and the barrel extension. What barrel did you end up with?

The bolts and barrels for "LR308" "SR25" "M110" are getting better, people are reporting less issues. Checking the headspace is cheap insurance though.
Link Posted: 8/8/2019 9:35:48 PM EDT
[#40]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Today I bought an assembled M5 16in upper from Aero and a Toolcraft BCG.
View Quote
just be advised, if your bolt carrier isn't beveled at the back of the fat part, then you need to pay extra-special attention to not be overgassed, and if you're running a carbine buffer tube, be sure to match up the right buffer tube depth to the right buffer, e.g. 7.0" inside buffer tube depth goes with the 2.5" OAL buffer, recommend 5.3oz buffer (e.g. KAK).  also, I'd recommend the Slash/HeavyBuffer 308 carbine spring ($15) as a starting point if you have no other basis.  otherwise you really increase the risk of your bolt carrier impacting the buffer tube upright, very little room for error with the unbeveled carrier, potentially resulting in a very disappointing build experience.  just my 2 cents from observation.

beveled:


not beveled:
Link Posted: 8/8/2019 10:02:05 PM EDT
[#41]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
This has probably been answered but I can't seem to get the search to kick back results.

Today I bought an assembled M5 16in upper from Aero and a Toolcraft BCG.

Is checking the headspace suggested in this situation?
View Quote
If you happen to be in Post Falls CDA up this way, I have some gauges you can borrow over in Spokane.
Link Posted: 8/8/2019 11:04:49 PM EDT
[#42]
Quoted:

Headspace is between the bolt and the barrel extension. What barrel did you end up with?

The bolts and barrels for "LR308" "SR25" "M110" are getting better, people are reporting less issues. Checking the headspace is cheap insurance though.
View Quote
I bought the Aero assembled upper with the 16in stainless barrel

Attachment Attached File


Quoted:

just be advised, if your bolt carrier isn't beveled at the back of the fat part, then you need to pay extra-special attention to not be overgassed, and if you're running a carbine buffer tube, be sure to match up the right buffer tube depth to the right buffer, e.g. 7.0" inside buffer tube depth goes with the 2.5" OAL buffer, recommend 5.3oz buffer (e.g. KAK).  also, I'd recommend the Slash/HeavyBuffer 308 carbine spring as a starting point if you have no other basis.  otherwise you really increase the risk of your bolt carrier impacting the buffer tube upright, very little room for error with the unbeveled carrier, potentially resulting in a very disappointing build experience.  just my 2 cents from observation.

beveled:
https://i.imgur.com/SE5sylF.jpg

not beveled:
https://i.imgur.com/utgjdfN.jpg
View Quote
Hmm I bought the toolcraft BCG that was recommended in this thread and the picture is non-beveled. What's interesting is it's the exact same profile as the one that Ballistic advantage sells on their site. Well, we'll see if it's okay.

The lower, LPK, Receiver extension, spring and buffer are all Aero Precision M5 parts, the only thing not Aero is the BCG and the Radeon charging handle.

This is the one I bought, same as you posted above, but you can also see that BA sells them in their AR10s. Like I said, hopefully it all works out, I thought I had put in enough research.
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Link Posted: 8/9/2019 8:20:23 PM EDT
[#43]
Changed out the stock from a fixed A2 to carbine.

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Link Posted: 8/10/2019 3:36:24 AM EDT
[#44]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Changed out the stock from a fixed A2 to carbine.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/77537/20190809_144325_jpg-1048506.JPG
View Quote
Looks awesome

I'm getting there:

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Link Posted: 8/12/2019 11:46:35 PM EDT
[#45]
UPDATE: I installed an adjustable gas block today and after getting it tuned in the problem went away.

Having FTF with the new build, first step to fix adjustable gas block?

Got all my parts in, assembled the rifle and out of 20-25 rounds fired I got 3 identical FTF using 2 different types of ammo. They all looked like this. The first ammo was SA milsurp and it was spitting brass at around 2 o'clock, the second ammo was Malaysian milsurp and it was throwing the brass at 4'Oclock as I said it happened using both ammo.

Attachment Attached File


Stock Aero precision upper
Aero lower
Aero LPK
Aero M5 carbine receiver extension kit with M5 spring and M5 carbine buffer
Raptor CH
Toolcraft BCG
Magpul Pmag

Something else, I have to say I'm not impressed with the upper and the lower fit. There's a weird gap in the lower back where it looks like material is missing from either the upper or the lower, yeah I know it doesn't affect function it's just ugly.

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 8/13/2019 12:58:46 AM EDT
[#46]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Having FTF with the new build, first step to fix adjustable gas block?

Got all my parts in, assembled the rifle and out of 20-25 rounds fired I got 3 identical FTF using 2 different types of ammo. They all looked like this. The first ammo was SA milsurp and it was spitting brass at around 2 o'clock, the second ammo was Malaysian milsurp and it was throwing the brass at 4'Oclock as I said it happened using both ammo.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/65327/20190812_172432_jpg-1052593.JPG

Stock Aero precision upper
Aero lower
Aero LPK
Aero M5 carbine receiver extension kit with M5 spring and M5 carbine buffer
Raptor CH
Toolcraft BCG

Something else, I have to say I'm not impressed with the upper and the lower fit. There's a weird gap in the lower back where it looks like material is missing from either the upper or the lower, yeah I know it doesn't affect function it's just ugly.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/65327/20190812_163041_jpg-1052598.JPG
View Quote
What mags? My M5E1 runs with PMAG's and Lancer LW7's, but I just tried my Larue mags and it was choke city.
Link Posted: 8/13/2019 3:23:31 AM EDT
[#47]
Oops

Double tap
Link Posted: 8/13/2019 3:24:34 AM EDT
[#48]
I started with a factory aero assembled lower on my build, first time shooting it, I could tell it was a little violent with the same d buffer and short tube.

Went and ordered the armature buffer tube kit , comes with A5 length tube, their std spring, and std h3 buffer..

Much better and my rainier ultramatch barrel is on the small side for gas hole size, so not gonna need a adj block n m Me.

It runs regular 308 and Regular LC  762 ammo with ease. I Tried some wolf , it shoots, ejects but doesn’t lock the bolt back. But picks up,another round.. chalk it up to not enough gas/weaker load.

On yours ,I’d recheck everything, gas block is aligned, cleaned and lubed up. Dry dire.

Also how is the fit on the feedramps?

Took a. Dremel and matched my upper to my barrel and a slight polish.. mine runs perfect on pmags and hexmags.
Link Posted: 8/13/2019 10:05:01 AM EDT
[#49]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

What mags? My M5E1 runs with PMAG's and Lancer LW7's, but I just tried my Larue mags and it was choke city.
View Quote
Pmags are all I have
Link Posted: 8/13/2019 10:41:48 AM EDT
[#50]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I started with a factory aero assembled lower on my build, first time shooting it, I could tell it was a little violent with the same d buffer and short tube.

Went and ordered the armature buffer tube kit , comes with A5 length tube, their std spring, and std h3 buffer..

Much better and my rainier ultramatch barrel is on the small side for gas hole size, so not gonna need a adj block n m Me.

It runs regular 308 and Regular LC  762 ammo with ease. I Tried some wolf , it shoots, ejects but doesn’t lock the bolt back. But picks up,another round.. chalk it up to not enough gas/weaker load.

On yours ,I’d recheck everything, gas block is aligned, cleaned and lubed up. Dry dire.

Also how is the fit on the feedramps?

Took a. Dremel and matched my upper to my barrel and a slight polish.. mine runs perfect on pmags and hexmags.
View Quote
I was planning on taking it apart later today to double check the gas block.

What am I looking for with the feed ramps? They looked fine to me when I bought it but maybe I'm not looking for the right issue.

The more I'm thinking about it, this is a weird malfunction, it extracts the old brass, strips the new round off the magazine and ALMOST gets it completely into the chamber but it's like the bullet it hitting the top of the chamber and preventing it from going forward. All 3 times it happened it destroyed the cartridge, bent the case so I could pull the bullet out by hand.
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