User Panel
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zero gas. is your gas tube seated correctly in the GB? i.e. roll pin through the gas tube, not in front of gas tube. gas tube upside down? if adj GB, maybe it's shipped "closed"? View Quote |
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Quoted: I like mine too, but I need to redo the Loctite. The knobs keep coming loose. View Quote The primary difference between all these products is the solvent carrier. VC-3 is Methyl Ethyl Ketone, VC-4 is Ethyl Acetate, VC-5 is Methyl Propyl Ketone, and VC-6 is Dimethyl Carbonate. Each of these solvents reacts differently when in contact with specific plastics. If you have a metal fastener; whether installed into a mating metal or plastic part, we recommend VC-3. Apply VC-3 to the metal fastener then allow it to fully dry. The MEK solvent should have evaporated leaving behind an inert polymer which will not react with other materials. You can then install the metal fastener into the plastic mating part. However if you plan to use these threadlockers directly on a plastic part, please consult the following table as a reference and be sure to TEST FIRST before using in production. |
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Vibra-Tite VC Series threadlockers are designed to be adjusted, removed, and reused. They utilize a blend of acrylic resins in a solvent base, which are applied to fasteners and dried first, then installed into mating part. The primary difference between all these products is the solvent carrier. VC-3 is Methyl Ethyl Ketone, VC-4 is Ethyl Acetate, VC-5 is Methyl Propyl Ketone, and VC-6 is Dimethyl Carbonate. Each of these solvents reacts differently when in contact with specific plastics. If you have a metal fastener; whether installed into a mating metal or plastic part, we recommend VC-3. Apply VC-3 to the metal fastener then allow it to fully dry. The MEK solvent should have evaporated leaving behind an inert polymer which will not react with other materials. You can then install the metal fastener into the plastic mating part. However if you plan to use these threadlockers directly on a plastic part, please consult the following table as a reference and be sure to TEST FIRST before using in production. View Quote |
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Got my 20" 6.5 Creedmoor done with the exception of optics and mount. Looking for recommendations for a unimount with a 20 MOA cant. Thanks in advance.
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Got my 20" 6.5 Creedmoor done with the exception of optics and mount. Looking for recommendations for a unimount with a 20 MOA cant. Thanks in advance. View Quote https://www.badgerordnance.com/unimounts/30-mm-1-piece-unimount-ultra-high-1-4-high-4-65-long.html |
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Got my 20" 6.5 Creedmoor done with the exception of optics and mount. Looking for recommendations for a unimount with a 20 MOA cant. Thanks in advance. View Quote |
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Anyone know where all the m5e1 fde builder sets have gone? Was hoping for a 4th of July sale but it seems like there’s really none left or priced high.
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You missed the July 4th sales, a little late now I think. Aero had a 15% off sale for everything on their site for a few days but it's over now.
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Finally got her together. Had a defective gas tube at first and @SLRRifleworks sent me a replacement which arrived in a day.
Now flawless function. Love it. Attached File |
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These are the parts I picked up during the July 4th sales. https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ee64/jbrackjr/0/a23b12f5-9e6e-4296-b420-6e726743fdb3-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds Partial assembly, barrel needs to be dimpled and sandblasted. Then painted. https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ee64/jbrackjr/0/09a51905-c4f5-47fc-9dd0-0a8d68c0a66b-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds It is strange how the light reflects on the endplate and castle nut differently than on the QD socket and bottom rail that were painted with cerakote fde. Looks better in person. View Quote https://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=579 SLR Rifleworks AR 15 Gas Block Dimpling Jig |
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These are the parts I picked up during the July 4th sales. https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ee64/jbrackjr/0/a23b12f5-9e6e-4296-b420-6e726743fdb3-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds Partial assembly, barrel needs to be dimpled and sandblasted. Then painted. https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ee64/jbrackjr/0/09a51905-c4f5-47fc-9dd0-0a8d68c0a66b-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds It is strange how the light reflects on the endplate and castle nut differently than on the QD socket and bottom rail that were painted with cerakote fde. Looks better in person. View Quote |
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http://imgur.com/gallery/iq3133Ohttp://imgur.com/gallery/iq3133O My M5E1. Can't decide to keep the 16" barrel to go 18" or 20" View Quote Looks good. As to barrel length, leave it and build another Also click edit and copy this link below into your post https://i.imgur.com/NW5LrNN_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium @CMCctx |
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https://i.imgur.com/NW5LrNN_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium Looks good. As to barrel length, leave it and build another Also click edit and copy this link below into your post https://i.imgur.com/NW5LrNN_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/472704/Screenshot_20190720-123235_Chrome-1023637.jpg @CMCctx View Quote |
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No change. Never posted pics before so I'm not sure what I'm doing incorrectly. Been creeping on this thread since last August and finished mine but never joined in! View Quote |
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Can someone please confirm the pivot & take-down pin diameters and lengths for the Aero Precision M5's...
My DPMS LR-308 prints show a dimension of (diameter) .275"/.276" +/- .0015" for the pin diameters. The lower (frame) pin hole diameters are listed at .278" according to my prints... The pivot pin length is listed as 1.640" and take-down pin is listed at .1.222" . We have two brand new Aero Precsion M5 Uppers w/ High Profile Rails at the shop and want to confirm correct pin set dimensions...The package says .2795" pin diameter but that's not a true DPMS/SR-25 pattern for the 308 platform... They may have to go on EE if we can't get the upper and the DPMS lowers to marry properly... Thanks in advance. |
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these are what I use in one of my aero m5's
http://ar15xtreme.com/store/product/aero-308-pattern-extended-front-rear-tdps-detents-and-springs/ |
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Can someone please confirm the pivot & take-down pin diameters and lengths for the Aero Precision M5's... My DPMS LR-308 prints show a dimension of (diameter) .275"/.276" +/- .0015" for the pin diameters. The lower (frame) pin hole diameters are listed at .278" according to my prints... The pivot pin length is listed as 1.640" and take-down pin is listed at .1.222" . We have two brand new Aero Precsion M5 Uppers w/ High Profile Rails at the shop and want to confirm correct pin set dimensions...The package says .2795" pin diameter but that's not a true DPMS/SR-25 pattern for the 308 platform... They may have to go on EE if we can't get the upper and the DPMS lowers to marry properly... Thanks in advance. View Quote I don't have a set of calipers but I'll figure out a way to at least closely measure mine. |
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Can someone please confirm the pivot & take-down pin diameters and lengths for the Aero Precision M5's... My DPMS LR-308 prints show a dimension of (diameter) .275"/.276" +/- .0015" for the pin diameters. The lower (frame) pin hole diameters are listed at .278" according to my prints... The pivot pin length is listed as 1.640" and take-down pin is listed at .1.222" . We have two brand new Aero Precsion M5 Uppers w/ High Profile Rails at the shop and want to confirm correct pin set dimensions...The package says .2795" pin diameter but that's not a true DPMS/SR-25 pattern for the 308 platform... They may have to go on EE if we can't get the upper and the DPMS lowers to marry properly... Thanks in advance. View Quote pivot pin: dia: .276" UHL: 1.590" TD pin: dia: .276" UHL: 1.070" my limited experience with trying to mate a DPMS lower with an Aero M5 upper is that they don't fit. the problem is the radius of curvature at the buffer tube upright is different on the two. prevents the upper from being able to close fully on the DPMS lower, unless you take a file to it and remove some aluminum, easiest to remove it from the lower, but then you have a DPMS lower that will henceforth only mate nicely with Aero uppers. If you try to put a DPMS upper on this now modified DPMS lower, you'll have an unsightly gap in the area where you had to remove material. YMMV. |
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@Dr69r pivot pin: dia: .276" UHL: 1.590" TD pin: dia: .276" UHL: 1.070" my limited experience with trying to mate a DPMS lower with an Aero M5 upper is that they don't fit. the problem is the radius of curvature at the buffer tube upright is different on the two. prevents the upper from being able to close fully on the DPMS lower, unless you take a file to it and remove some aluminum, easiest to remove it from the lower, but then you have a DPMS lower that will henceforth only mate nicely with Aero uppers. If you try to put a DPMS upper on this now modified DPMS lower, you'll have an unsightly gap in the area where you had to remove material. YMMV. View Quote I will test fit the upper and lower mating surfaces with buffer tube attached to see what its looks like. I will report back on any fitment issues if any...thanks again. |
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Quoted: I will shoot some compressed air thru the gas tube. Need to do that before I determine it not to be user error. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: I will shoot some compressed air thru the gas tube. Need to do that before I determine it not to be user error. I have a couple of shims from .025" up to .035" thicknesses I use for a spacer between the block and shoulder to verify, usually I find the gap to be around .030". I found this post from RLR350 yrs ago, it's solid advice for set screw style blocks Quoted:Determining if you need a gap for the missing hand guard cap is pretty easy to do without tools. First, the hole in the gas block is bigger than the gas port so you have some room for a little error. To determine if you need an extra space between the shoulder and the gas block, put the gas block on, spin it upside down and center the set screw hole over the gas port. This will reveal whether a gap is needed and if so, how much. |
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@Dr69r pivot pin: dia: .276" UHL: 1.590" TD pin: dia: .276" UHL: 1.070" my limited experience with trying to mate a DPMS lower with an Aero M5 upper is that they don't fit. the problem is the radius of curvature at the buffer tube upright is different on the two. prevents the upper from being able to close fully on the DPMS lower, unless you take a file to it and remove some aluminum, easiest to remove it from the lower, but then you have a DPMS lower that will henceforth only mate nicely with Aero uppers. If you try to put a DPMS upper on this now modified DPMS lower, you'll have an unsightly gap in the area where you had to remove material. YMMV. View Quote take-down pins... @ rpotL98, your were correct in that the fit was very tight and required tapping the rear take-down pin in with the back of a screwdriver or small mallet. There was a small gap (about .012"/.015" or so) between the lower buffer tower radii where you can see three rub marks on both lower and upper once fitted and then separated. Also test fit a DPMS LR-308 upper to the Noreen lower and fitment went very well overall, there was a very small gap (about .002"/.003") in the buffer tower area and no rub marks at all, where the Aero M5 upper had a variation in dimensions and had those light rub marks on the mating surfaces...There was very little play (about .001"/.002") between the DPMS upper and Noreen forged lower... What we forgot to check was rail height differences when we ordered the LW free float rails (hand-guards) the DPMS upper was a low profile (.162" at the tang) and the Aero M5 was a high profile rail height (.210" at the tang). Rookie mistake, but will have to source some low cost (preferably USA made) LW low pro hand-guards to match the Aero M5 rail height... Thanks again @rpotL98 for your help. |
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Quoted: A can of compressed air for cleaning a keyboard is great for this, I stick the little plastic tube in the gas tube after I have plugged the chamber end to verify I have good air flow. But I also dimple every barrel now to eliminate this. I have a couple of shims from .025" up to .035" thicknesses I use for a spacer between the block and shoulder to verify, usually I find the gap to be around .030". I found this post from RLR350 yrs ago, it's solid advice for set screw style blocks View Quote |
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Attached File
Attached File I just ordered everything to complete my lower. I *finally* finished the parts list. Lower: Giessele / Aero LPK Radian Talon Safety Larue MBT Knights SR25 Bolt Catch Larue 762 Buffer Tube CTR w/ Larue RISR Limbsaver Gel buttpad for CTR Larue POD Accushot Monopod JP Captive buffer system 762 carbine HK G28 battlegrip RAL8000 Upper:(I only have the receiver and the URX) URX4 13.5 Criterion 16" Rifle Gas Surefire Socom Brake SLR Rifleworks .750 Sentry Melonite Gas Tube Strike polymer dust cover Unknown: Optic... what is the current favorite? I'm going with a giessele or Scalar mount. |
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https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/284035/g28_png-1040427.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/284035/g28-2_png-1040428.JPG I just ordered everything to complete my lower. I *finally* finished the parts list. Lower: Giessele / Aero LPK Radian Talon Safety Larue MBT Knights SR25 Bolt Catch Larue 762 Buffer Tube CTR w/ Larue RISR Limbsaver Gel buttpad for CTR Larue POD Accushot Monopod JP Captive buffer system 762 carbine HK G28 battlegrip RAL8000 Upper:(I only have the receiver and the URX) URX4 13.5 Criterion 16" Rifle Gas Surefire Socom Brake SLR Rifleworks .750 Sentry Melonite Gas Tube Strike polymer dust cover Unknown: Optic... what is the current favorite? I'm going with a giessele or Scalar mount. View Quote |
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Quoted: I assume you have not shot the 16” criterion yet? Curious what you think of it or why you chose it. I am torn between this and Faxon match fluted and also torn between 16 and 18. Not trying to build a light weight rifle but I also don’t want a pig. View Quote Several reasons: I wanted rifle gas - obviously this platform is sensitive to gas Rifle is good for all your run of the mill reasons you've seen before. I wanted a "short" range 762. There is very little difference between 16" and 18" when you are shooting out to 800m. So I opted for the handier length Criterion has pretty good reputation. Its not an extreme match barrel, but I expect pretty good results from the M118LR chambered piece. |
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Quoted: I have not fired a 16" 762 gun yet unfortunately. Several reasons: I wanted rifle gas - obviously this platform is sensitive to gas Rifle is good for all your run of the mill reasons you've seen before. I wanted a "short" range 762. There is very little difference between 16" and 18" when you are shooting out to 800m. So I opted for the handier length Criterion has pretty good reputation. Its not an extreme match barrel, but I expect pretty good results from the M118LR chambered piece. View Quote that the 308 Win caliber version may not be as accurate at medium to long rage as the 6.5 CM version... Good luck |
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This has probably been answered but I can't seem to get the search to kick back results.
Today I bought an assembled M5 16in upper from Aero and a Toolcraft BCG. Is checking the headspace suggested in this situation? |
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This has probably been answered but I can't seem to get the search to kick back results. Today I bought an assembled M5 16in upper from Aero and a Toolcraft BCG. Is checking the headspace suggested in this situation? View Quote The bolts and barrels for "LR308" "SR25" "M110" are getting better, people are reporting less issues. Checking the headspace is cheap insurance though. |
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This has probably been answered but I can't seem to get the search to kick back results. Today I bought an assembled M5 16in upper from Aero and a Toolcraft BCG. Is checking the headspace suggested in this situation? View Quote |
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Quoted: Headspace is between the bolt and the barrel extension. What barrel did you end up with? The bolts and barrels for "LR308" "SR25" "M110" are getting better, people are reporting less issues. Checking the headspace is cheap insurance though. View Quote Attached File Quoted:
just be advised, if your bolt carrier isn't beveled at the back of the fat part, then you need to pay extra-special attention to not be overgassed, and if you're running a carbine buffer tube, be sure to match up the right buffer tube depth to the right buffer, e.g. 7.0" inside buffer tube depth goes with the 2.5" OAL buffer, recommend 5.3oz buffer (e.g. KAK). also, I'd recommend the Slash/HeavyBuffer 308 carbine spring as a starting point if you have no other basis. otherwise you really increase the risk of your bolt carrier impacting the buffer tube upright, very little room for error with the unbeveled carrier, potentially resulting in a very disappointing build experience. just my 2 cents from observation. beveled: https://i.imgur.com/SE5sylF.jpg not beveled: https://i.imgur.com/utgjdfN.jpg View Quote The lower, LPK, Receiver extension, spring and buffer are all Aero Precision M5 parts, the only thing not Aero is the BCG and the Radeon charging handle. This is the one I bought, same as you posted above, but you can also see that BA sells them in their AR10s. Like I said, hopefully it all works out, I thought I had put in enough research. Attached File Attached File |
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Changed out the stock from a fixed A2 to carbine. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/77537/20190809_144325_jpg-1048506.JPG View Quote I'm getting there: Attached File |
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UPDATE: I installed an adjustable gas block today and after getting it tuned in the problem went away.
Having FTF with the new build, first step to fix adjustable gas block? Got all my parts in, assembled the rifle and out of 20-25 rounds fired I got 3 identical FTF using 2 different types of ammo. They all looked like this. The first ammo was SA milsurp and it was spitting brass at around 2 o'clock, the second ammo was Malaysian milsurp and it was throwing the brass at 4'Oclock as I said it happened using both ammo. Attached File Stock Aero precision upper Aero lower Aero LPK Aero M5 carbine receiver extension kit with M5 spring and M5 carbine buffer Raptor CH Toolcraft BCG Magpul Pmag Something else, I have to say I'm not impressed with the upper and the lower fit. There's a weird gap in the lower back where it looks like material is missing from either the upper or the lower, yeah I know it doesn't affect function it's just ugly. Attached File |
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Having FTF with the new build, first step to fix adjustable gas block? Got all my parts in, assembled the rifle and out of 20-25 rounds fired I got 3 identical FTF using 2 different types of ammo. They all looked like this. The first ammo was SA milsurp and it was spitting brass at around 2 o'clock, the second ammo was Malaysian milsurp and it was throwing the brass at 4'Oclock as I said it happened using both ammo. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/65327/20190812_172432_jpg-1052593.JPG Stock Aero precision upper Aero lower Aero LPK Aero M5 carbine receiver extension kit with M5 spring and M5 carbine buffer Raptor CH Toolcraft BCG Something else, I have to say I'm not impressed with the upper and the lower fit. There's a weird gap in the lower back where it looks like material is missing from either the upper or the lower, yeah I know it doesn't affect function it's just ugly. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/65327/20190812_163041_jpg-1052598.JPG View Quote |
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I started with a factory aero assembled lower on my build, first time shooting it, I could tell it was a little violent with the same d buffer and short tube.
Went and ordered the armature buffer tube kit , comes with A5 length tube, their std spring, and std h3 buffer.. Much better and my rainier ultramatch barrel is on the small side for gas hole size, so not gonna need a adj block n m Me. It runs regular 308 and Regular LC 762 ammo with ease. I Tried some wolf , it shoots, ejects but doesn’t lock the bolt back. But picks up,another round.. chalk it up to not enough gas/weaker load. On yours ,I’d recheck everything, gas block is aligned, cleaned and lubed up. Dry dire. Also how is the fit on the feedramps? Took a. Dremel and matched my upper to my barrel and a slight polish.. mine runs perfect on pmags and hexmags. |
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I started with a factory aero assembled lower on my build, first time shooting it, I could tell it was a little violent with the same d buffer and short tube. Went and ordered the armature buffer tube kit , comes with A5 length tube, their std spring, and std h3 buffer.. Much better and my rainier ultramatch barrel is on the small side for gas hole size, so not gonna need a adj block n m Me. It runs regular 308 and Regular LC 762 ammo with ease. I Tried some wolf , it shoots, ejects but doesn’t lock the bolt back. But picks up,another round.. chalk it up to not enough gas/weaker load. On yours ,I’d recheck everything, gas block is aligned, cleaned and lubed up. Dry dire. Also how is the fit on the feedramps? Took a. Dremel and matched my upper to my barrel and a slight polish.. mine runs perfect on pmags and hexmags. View Quote What am I looking for with the feed ramps? They looked fine to me when I bought it but maybe I'm not looking for the right issue. The more I'm thinking about it, this is a weird malfunction, it extracts the old brass, strips the new round off the magazine and ALMOST gets it completely into the chamber but it's like the bullet it hitting the top of the chamber and preventing it from going forward. All 3 times it happened it destroyed the cartridge, bent the case so I could pull the bullet out by hand. |
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