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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 11/10/2003 9:09:20 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/10/2003 9:11:10 PM EST by Searcherfortruth]
I have a Colt slab side preban lower, with the small pin holes. I have been waiting for 4 or 5 months now to get the right triger group for my upper, as I 1st got the wrong sized pin hole set. It came to me for the 3rd time today, & I just put it in. I had a hard time getting it all aligned & put back together, & when I finaly got it all put togeather with a smile on my face I tried the triger pull to see if it was a noticable difference. It was, & I'm glad.
Problem is, now my selector switch won't turn to safe. It only makes it part way, & stops. It also feels tight for the 1/2 distance to safe it will turn.
So now what? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance Searcher for truth.
Link Posted: 11/10/2003 10:13:55 PM EST
S4T, Assuming that you put the selector back together correctly, the AS trigger needs fitting. There is a description of the procedure in "The Complete Guide to AR-15 Accuracy" by Martin & Tillman. The top rear of the trigger needs to filed down to the point that the trigger doesn't bind the selector AND there is no trigger movement when the selector is on safe. Did AS include installation directions with the kit? A previous poster had problems with the AS trigger. Apparently it uses special pins to make up for the lack of a J spring in the hammer. Did your kit come with anti walk pins?
Link Posted: 11/11/2003 2:44:33 AM EST
[Last Edit: 11/11/2003 2:45:13 AM EST by Searcherfortruth]
It didn't come with any pins, but the Colt pins have 2 groves in then I would guess the grooves are for the springs to lock into, to avoid walking. I didn't read the directions very closely as I thought it was just to tell how to reasemble the parts. Sorry, I'll read them & see if they cover the filing of the trigger to fit properly. Searcher out
Link Posted: 11/11/2003 3:00:35 AM EST
[Last Edit: 11/11/2003 3:01:25 AM EST by Dano523]
You missed tweaks point, The hammer that comes with the kit does not use the J spring to catch the middle groove of the trigger pin. This means that you will need to get anti-walk pins to keep the hammer pin from walking out or the receiver.
Link Posted: 11/11/2003 3:34:54 AM EST
as i recall mine which i bought something like 2 years ago used the stock pins. BTW you are checking the safety operation with the hammer cocked right? If so you need to do some fitting as tweak suggested. You will need to file or stone off a small amount on the top of the "tail" that extends back from the trigger to engage the safety. you want to remove just enough to operate the safety. Afterwards there is a check you need to do to ensure that the disconnector is doing its thing. Did you not recieve any instructions with your trigger? If not you should call AS and ask them to send you a set, if so then you need to read them. Great trigger BTW.
Link Posted: 11/11/2003 12:50:23 PM EST
Originally Posted By curt: as i recall mine which i bought something like 2 years ago used the stock pins.
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We've heard differently here curt. The hammer shown in Martin and Tillman's book does not have a "J" spring in it. It's not a standard AR hammer at all. Was yours standard? They may have changed the design through the years.
Link Posted: 11/11/2003 3:34:27 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/11/2003 5:09:14 PM EST by gregw45]
Got my first & only AS trigger this year and it used the stock hammer/trigger pins (small). The hammer and disconnector are non-standard, stainless steel, but the J-spring was there. No walking pins on my lower.
Link Posted: 11/14/2003 3:35:03 AM EST
[Last Edit: 11/14/2003 3:36:06 AM EST by Searcherfortruth]
I took it to work with me last night, stoned it with my Lansky sharpening stones, & now it works. Didn't mean to waste anyones time, I should have read the instructions before I panicked over it not working right. Sorry.
Link Posted: 11/15/2003 6:33:55 AM EST
Heres something else for those doing an Accuray Speaks trigger job to watch out for. I had stoned down the back of the trigger where it meats the salector switch till it would turn , but it still seamed to stick just a tad, so last night I brought it to work with me again, & proceded to stone a little more off. It didn't seam to make a differanc, so while I was trying to figure out why, & looking closely as I could while flipping the selector from safe to fire, I noticed the back edge of the salector switch was scrapping on my Houge overmolded rubber grip. I am going to file a little of the switch to fix it, but I probably wouldn't have had to restone the trigger if I had noticed that 1st! The trigger is still fealing perfect according to the directions as to no movement when on safe.
Link Posted: 11/16/2003 8:04:50 PM EST
Originally Posted By Searcherfortruth: I noticed the back edge of the salector switch was scrapping on my Houge overmolded rubber grip.
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[slap] [wave] [ROFL2]
Link Posted: 11/17/2003 3:17:08 AM EST
Ok luagh it up tweak, but the black Houge didn't have that problem, but I had recently switched it for an OD Houge wich did cause a problem. See, it's Houges fault.[rolleyes]
Link Posted: 11/17/2003 8:58:24 PM EST
Originally Posted By Searcherfortruth: Houge Houges
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Ah, I see the problem. Your pistol grip is obviously a knockoff of the well known [url=http://www.hogueinc.com/getgrip/merchant.ihtml?pid=156&lastcatid=16&step=4]Hogue[/url] pistol grip. Sorta like those Rolexx watches I keep seeing for sale downtown. [:D] Changing out more than one major part at a time (FCG and PG in your case) is often cause for trouble. [nono]
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