AR Sponsor
Posted: 6/4/2015 10:49:54 PM EDT
| I am all done and the trigger does not function. The hammer locks in place, but the trigger will not release. Normally when cocked, the safety can slide in and out, but there is a small part of the trigger sticking up as if it's not cocked. I am at 1.52 inside the pocket now because I took a little extra off to try and fix the issue, didn't work. Any ideas? The rest of my tolerances are what they should be. |
|
Measure the distances between hole centers on both the jigset and the lower, and if they are the same, check those numbers against the schematics. Do this on BOTH sides.
If all of the numbers are good, disassemble the trigger group. Stick the pins in the holes in one side of the jig, then slide the parts onto the pins without springs. Do they work? If so, then put on the springs. Still work? If everything is good, reassemble and try again. |
|
Just saw your post about the hole in the wrong place.
If you're willing for it to look a little oddball, you can fill the hole with JB Weld, leaving a big bulge on the end of the hole that you see, then come back in a couple of days, drill a new hole and shave the bulge down flat. |
|
As some have suggested I would check the following:
Are your hammer, trigger, and dis-connector springs Installed correctly ? Check to see if your trigger is rubbing against your trigger slot and not going rearward enough to trip your hammer ... Check for grip screw protrusion Into your FCP possibly causing the Issue... There is at least the possibility of out of spec hammer/trigger hole locations causing the binding... If possible swap the trigger group parts with a different set (or a known good trigger group) to see if that helps, as It could be a out of spec trigger, hammer, or dis-connector causing the Issue... A drop-in trigger module may be used to solve this Issue if nothing else works for you... Good luck. |
|
I had a the same issue on one of my 80% awhile back. It turns out the front of the trigger was jammed up against the trigger hole in the bottom of the receiver. A few minutes with a rounded rat-tail file removed enough material for the trigger to move freely. The tigger hole has always given me issues for some reason.
I wouldn't go any deeper with your trigger pocket, there isn't a whole lot of room for error at the bottom. If you used a jig, I highly doubt that the hammer trigger and safety selector hole are off as long as you drilled the holes separately on each side, rather than going all the way through. |
|
Look, guys, it's really simple.
-OP tells us that he can install the fire control parts, and he can cock the hammer. He's also told us that he's 0.021" over on pocket depth. So pocket depth is not the issue. -Since sear engages the hammer, it's not an issue with the grip screw protruding, which holds the rear of the trigger up (trigger pulled position). This also tells us that the trigger slot is long enough, since that would cause the same condition as a protruding grip screw. -I am led to believe that the condition exists regardless of the selector, so not a selector or selector hole location issue. That leaves only two possibilities: 1, The fire control parts are way out of spec (unlikely), or 2, one of the two pin holes is not properly located. My money is on the OP finding that one or both of the holes are mislocated, and that the relationship between them is incorrect. On centers, the hammer pin hole should be 0.625" from the deck and 3.604" from the pivot pin hole. The trigger pin hole should be 0.939" from the deck, 4.447" from the pivot pin hole. IIRC, the tolerance is +/- 0.003" |
|
I had this issue, my jig had holes on only one side for drilling the trigger and hammer pin holes so the bit walked as I was drilling the hammer pin holes.
Look through the receiver holes and make sure that they aren't on an angle. If they are, you can JB weld them and redrill. |
|
Quoted:
Look, guys, it's really simple. -OP tells us that he can install the fire control parts, and he can cock the hammer. He's also told us that he's 0.021" over on pocket depth. So pocket depth is not the issue. -Since sear engages the hammer, it's not an issue with the grip screw protruding, which holds the rear of the trigger up (trigger pulled position). This also tells us that the trigger slot is long enough, since that would cause the same condition as a protruding grip screw. -I am led to believe that the condition exists regardless of the selector, so not a selector or selector hole location issue. That leaves only two possibilities: 1, The fire control parts are way out of spec (unlikely), or 2, one of the two pin holes is not properly located. My money is on the OP finding that one or both of the holes are mislocated, and that the relationship between them is incorrect. On centers, the hammer pin hole should be 0.625" from the deck and 3.604" from the pivot pin hole. The trigger pin hole should be 0.939" from the deck, 4.447" from the pivot pin hole. IIRC, the tolerance is +/- 0.003" I got the trigger to work for the most part by drilling the trigger pocket a little wider. It is supposed to be 0.680 wide and my big was only 0.6 wide. Still seems to have a tiny bit of an issue and I bet it is my hole locations. I will check them later. Thanks for the tips guys. |
|
Make sure when you push the hammer and trigger pin in you push them from the ejection side in.
I've had instances where I push them from the other direction and it'll push the trigger assembly over a hair towards the safety detent. When this happens it may cause the trigger to be obstructed by the safety itself but it's easy to tell because your trigger will barely budge. |
AR Sponsor