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6ARC Barrels/Uppers (Page 1 of 4)
Posted: 11/20/2024 8:50:52 AM EDT
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Was thinking of putting together a 6ARC build. Any suggestions on a high quality barrel? Thinking of going 18". |
I bought all this equipment. What do you mean that the dead AREN'T coming back to life?
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Originally Posted By Mister_H: I built one with a Proof Research SS and a JP bolt. I have been very impressed with how accurate this barrel is. Which bolt is required for the 6ARC? |
I bought all this equipment. What do you mean that the dead AREN'T coming back to life?
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I’ve got a few more but I’ve got the most rounds with a Proof, Noveske, and Beer City Bullets. I think overall I’d lean proof but the BCB is actually a superb barrel (not sure who actually cuts their barrels but they’re not cheap) and the Noveske is a solid shooter even if not as good as the other two. It’s just hard to beat Proof, especially in 6arc. Edit: oh and while I’ve not shot one in 6arc I’ve had nothing but great experience with Craddock and they’ll sell you a very nice RTR button rifle’d 6arc barrel for like $350, or you can go all out with a Bartlein cut for, well, not cheap. |
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Originally Posted By metalsaber: The only other place I was considering was vseven. Think they were former noveske workers. I actually snagged one of their 6arc barrels. I just didn’t mention it as I haven’t gotten around to even shooting it, let alone tuning it. Looking forward to it though I hear nothing but good things. |
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Originally Posted By doty_soty: Edit: oh and while I’ve not shot one in 6arc I’ve had nothing but great experience with Craddock and they’ll sell you a very nice RTR button rifle’d 6arc barrel for like $350, or you can go all out with a Bartlein cut for, well, not cheap. The Craddock Bartlein 6arc barrels shoot! I have limited experience with the proof 6arc’s, but the Craddock barrel outshoots my buddy’s Proof 6arc consistently with me pulling the trigger. |
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Originally Posted By SuperJlarge: The Craddock Bartlein 6arc barrels shoot! I have limited experience with the proof 6arc's, but the Craddock barrel outshoots my buddy's Proof 6arc consistently with me pulling the trigger. |
I bought all this equipment. What do you mean that the dead AREN'T coming back to life?
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Originally Posted By SuperJlarge: The Craddock Bartlein 6arc barrels shoot! I have limited experience with the proof 6arc’s, but the Craddock barrel outshoots my buddy’s Proof 6arc consistently with me pulling the trigger. Hard to beat a Bartlein. But if you’re looking for a readily available 6 ARC barrel that is going to be chambered and gassed correctly, the Proof with a JP bolt is the easy button. |
| My 21" Odin works was fine, just very chunky, wound up ordering an 18" lightweight barrel from X-Caliber during one of their sales, and it has been an absolute hammer, and much better for general use or hunting. Got a 12.5" KAK very recently, killed a few deer with it last weekend, but haven't really benched it, I doubt it can equal the X-Caliber, but it was half the price and really just meant for woods hunting. |
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Sons of Liberty Gun Works Premium Barrels are laser beams. Plus, they will replace your barrel for free if you shoot it out. |
Scepticism is an exercise, not a life; it is a discipline fit to purify the mind of prejudice and render it all the more apt, when the time comes, to believe and to act wisely. -- George Santayana
Never mistake a clear view for a short distance.
Never mistake a clear view for a short distance.
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Originally Posted By SuperJlarge: The Craddock Bartlein 6arc barrels shoot! I have limited experience with the proof 6arc’s, but the Craddock barrel outshoots my buddy’s Proof 6arc consistently with me pulling the trigger. Originally Posted By SuperJlarge: Originally Posted By doty_soty: Edit: oh and while I’ve not shot one in 6arc I’ve had nothing but great experience with Craddock and they’ll sell you a very nice RTR button rifle’d 6arc barrel for like $350, or you can go all out with a Bartlein cut for, well, not cheap. The Craddock Bartlein 6arc barrels shoot! I have limited experience with the proof 6arc’s, but the Craddock barrel outshoots my buddy’s Proof 6arc consistently with me pulling the trigger. I will second this. I had Craddock turn a 20” 6Arc Bartlien for me. It shoot just about everything fantastic. I plan to shoot some groups this weekend at 600. If the wind doesn’t get too squirrely I expect good to great groups. If you want to save some $ take a look at their ready to rock barrels. I am going to get one for a 223 build next. |
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I have been onboard with the 6ARC since you could get them, I have one of the first guns offered to the public since it's inception. Two of the best barrels offered for them is Preferred Barrels Blanks... a subsidiarity of Match Grade Machine. And Oden Works made by McGowan barrels, both are high quality barrel manufactures. You will not be disappointed with them for the price spent to acquire. They are both top notch barrels, right up their with the best of the best. |
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Originally Posted By Dino11: I have been onboard with the 6ARC since you could get them, I have one of the first guns offered to the public since it's inception. Two of the best barrels offered for them is Preferred Barrels Blanks... a subsidiarity of Match Grade Machine. And Oden Works made by McGowan barrels, both are high quality barrel manufactures. You will not be disappointed with them for the price spent to acquire. They are both top notch barrels, right up their with the best of the best. I had no idea McGowen made the Odin barrels. That's pretty cool. |
Scepticism is an exercise, not a life; it is a discipline fit to purify the mind of prejudice and render it all the more apt, when the time comes, to believe and to act wisely. -- George Santayana
Never mistake a clear view for a short distance.
Never mistake a clear view for a short distance.
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Why not the Noveske? The headspaced bolt is or was a JP DLC coated even stated it in the description when I bought my 18" but I don't believe it does now. That being I own all 3 6MM ARC Noveske Barrels and while I'm not a paper shooter nor do I shoot quarters a mile they are damn fine shooting and accurate barrels............. I also have a CLE 15.1" 6MM ARC that I've yet to even fire as it's built and package for a damn pin/weld that just hasn't happened yet...... ETA: Big Tex still list's the bolt as JP DLC Coated Upper Receiver • Noveske Gen 4 precision machined billet receiver from 7075-T6 aluminum w/extended feed ramps • Hardcoat type III anodizing, then Armor Black Cerakote ceramic coating for superior finish longevity • Black nitride Noveske marked forward assist • Noveske Marked Geissele Super Badass ambidextrous charging handle • Featuring anti-rotation interface with handguard • Phosphate coated bolt carrier, full auto compatible, chrome lined carrier bore and key • Properly staked grade 8 American made gas key bolts • DLC Coated JP Enterprises 6mm ARC/6.5 Grendel EnhancedBolt™ made from SAE 9310 heat treated steel |
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I just bought a Krieger 10 twist which will be chambered for 6 ARC in an AR-15. JP bolt and barrel extension. Seekins Precision IMRT-3 upper. |
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| I also just went with the 18” noveske barrel with gas block, gas tube and head spaced bolt. Even picked up their BCG completion kit. Installed it in a Areo M4e1 upper with a 15 inch Geissele mk16 rail and a Dead Air flash hider to run my supressor. I haven’t shot it yet but my only regret is I wish I had gone with the Geissele mk18 rail in 16 inch length. Other than that I love the way this turned out. |
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Originally Posted By bigjoe7757: I also just went with the 18” noveske barrel with gas block, gas tube and head spaced bolt. Even picked up their BCG completion kit. Installed it in a Areo M4e1 upper with a 15 inch Geissele mk16 rail and a Dead Air flash hider to run my supressor. I haven’t shot it yet but my only regret is I wish I had gone with the Geissele mk18 rail in 16 inch length. Other than that I love the way this turned out. Those Mk18 ARCAs are great. It gets to where I’m tempted to buy them on sight when I see a good deal on one, even if I don’t have a build in mind lol The CMT option is nice as well, as is the VLTOR. I still prefer the Geissele. |
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Originally Posted By Mister_H: https://i.imgur.com/fr5CmRT.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/4TooBpk.jpeg The 16” Proof shoots pretty good for a gas gun lol. I’ve got to put more rounds through my 6arc with its 18” Proof barrel. My 18” 6.5 Grendel Proof barrel can put five rounds into one big ragged hole though. For such a picky cartridge, Proof nailed it with that one, and what rounds I have through my 6arc show it to be similar. |
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Originally Posted By doty_soty: I’ve got to put more rounds through my 6arc with its 18” Proof barrel. My 18” 6.5 Grendel Proof barrel can put five rounds into one big ragged hole though. For such a picky cartridge, Proof nailed it with that one, and what rounds I have through my 6arc show it to be similar. Originally Posted By doty_soty: Originally Posted By Mister_H: https://i.imgur.com/fr5CmRT.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/4TooBpk.jpeg The 16” Proof shoots pretty good for a gas gun lol. I’ve got to put more rounds through my 6arc with its 18” Proof barrel. My 18” 6.5 Grendel Proof barrel can put five rounds into one big ragged hole though. For such a picky cartridge, Proof nailed it with that one, and what rounds I have through my 6arc show it to be similar. Is yours carbon fiber wrapped or stainless? This is my first proof barrel and it’s a stainless, makes me want to drop the extra money on a carbon fiber barrel for a lightweight hunting build. |
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Originally Posted By Mister_H: Is yours carbon fiber wrapped or stainless? This is my first proof barrel and it’s a stainless, makes me want to drop the extra money on a carbon fiber barrel for a lightweight hunting build. Originally Posted By Mister_H: Originally Posted By doty_soty: Originally Posted By Mister_H: https://i.imgur.com/fr5CmRT.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/4TooBpk.jpeg The 16” Proof shoots pretty good for a gas gun lol. I’ve got to put more rounds through my 6arc with its 18” Proof barrel. My 18” 6.5 Grendel Proof barrel can put five rounds into one big ragged hole though. For such a picky cartridge, Proof nailed it with that one, and what rounds I have through my 6arc show it to be similar. Is yours carbon fiber wrapped or stainless? This is my first proof barrel and it’s a stainless, makes me want to drop the extra money on a carbon fiber barrel for a lightweight hunting build. All of mine (one 6arc, 1 6.5G, and 1 5.56) are their stainless. At least at the moment. I say that because I’ve had a CF 20” 6.5G in a receiver letting the bedding cure while its handguard is off getting cerakoted. Here next week I’ll have it put back together and off to the range. I bet it shoots nice but I doubt it outperforms the stainless. I think their SS is their best attempt at an accurate barrel, but their CF is their best attempt at an accurate barrel that’s lightweight, as in I bet that’s a compromise. But I haven’t shot it yet so I’m talking out of my ass. I will say, if I need an accurate barrel, I’ll consider a Proof SS to be a peer of those expensive custom spun jobs, and about as high end as you can get off the rack. |
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Originally Posted By ALASKANFIRE: Lots of people going with the JP bolt is that the go to for Grendel/Arc? What makes it better? It’s definitely the go-to, at least until/if Geissele releases theirs. I dunno why though, except it’s ‘better’. I actually shoot a good deal on 6.5 bolts and haven’t had one break, but I do have a lot of rifles to divvy up that round count too. I’ve only ever shot factory rounds though, and a part of me wonders if these bolt breakage issues is exacerbated by handloaders running hot ammo. |
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Originally Posted By doty_soty: It’s definitely the go-to, at least until/if Geissele releases theirs. I dunno why though, except it’s ‘better’. I actually shoot a good deal on 6.5 bolts and haven’t had one break, but I do have a lot of rifles to divvy up that round count too. I’ve only ever shot factory rounds though, and a part of me wonders if these bolt breakage issues is exacerbated by handloaders running hot ammo. Originally Posted By doty_soty: Originally Posted By ALASKANFIRE: Lots of people going with the JP bolt is that the go to for Grendel/Arc? What makes it better? It’s definitely the go-to, at least until/if Geissele releases theirs. I dunno why though, except it’s ‘better’. I actually shoot a good deal on 6.5 bolts and haven’t had one break, but I do have a lot of rifles to divvy up that round count too. I’ve only ever shot factory rounds though, and a part of me wonders if these bolt breakage issues is exacerbated by handloaders running hot ammo. I think a lot of it is that we've learned how to make them better and have some better materials so they last longer. I absolutely remember guys breaking 7.62z39 bolts and there were also some early Grendel and similar wildcat guys having some issues. You can only push so hard before you need to go with something bigger and stronger. JP has always made good stuff. I've sold a bit of it but it's too spendy for cheap bastards like me. They also do what I consider to be weird profiles/configurations on their barrels so you have to like what they offer. |
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Originally Posted By ALASKANFIRE: I think a lot of it is that we've learned how to make them better and have some better materials so they last longer. I absolutely remember guys breaking 7.62z39 bolts and there were also some early Grendel and similar wildcat guys having some issues. You can only push so hard before you need to go with something bigger and stronger. JP has always made good stuff. I've sold a bit of it but it's too spendy for cheap bastards like me. They also do what I consider to be weird profiles/configurations on their barrels so you have to like what they offer. Originally Posted By ALASKANFIRE: Originally Posted By doty_soty: Originally Posted By ALASKANFIRE: Lots of people going with the JP bolt is that the go to for Grendel/Arc? What makes it better? It’s definitely the go-to, at least until/if Geissele releases theirs. I dunno why though, except it’s ‘better’. I actually shoot a good deal on 6.5 bolts and haven’t had one break, but I do have a lot of rifles to divvy up that round count too. I’ve only ever shot factory rounds though, and a part of me wonders if these bolt breakage issues is exacerbated by handloaders running hot ammo. I think a lot of it is that we've learned how to make them better and have some better materials so they last longer. I absolutely remember guys breaking 7.62z39 bolts and there were also some early Grendel and similar wildcat guys having some issues. You can only push so hard before you need to go with something bigger and stronger. JP has always made good stuff. I've sold a bit of it but it's too spendy for cheap bastards like me. They also do what I consider to be weird profiles/configurations on their barrels so you have to like what they offer. Their barrels are definitely odd. I lucked into one for a song, a Grendel actually. It took a bit to get it tuned up but it ended up being an absurdly well shooting barrel. I don’t care for the weird profile (I know they’re narrow under the handguard for the cooling fins or whatever), but I can’t argue with the results. I wouldn’t seek one out, but I’ve been very happy with mine, partly because I got it for $170 
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Originally Posted By doty_soty: All of mine (one 6arc, 1 6.5G, and 1 5.56) are their stainless. At least at the moment. I say that because I’ve had a CF 20” 6.5G in a receiver letting the bedding cure while its handguard is off getting cerakoted. Here next week I’ll have it put back together and off to the range. I bet it shoots nice but I doubt it outperforms the stainless. I think their SS is their best attempt at an accurate barrel, but their CF is their best attempt at an accurate barrel that’s lightweight, as in I bet that’s a compromise. But I haven’t shot it yet so I’m talking out of my ass. I will say, if I need an accurate barrel, I’ll consider a Proof SS to be a peer of those expensive custom spun jobs, and about as high end as you can get off the rack. Let me know how that CF barrel does. I’ve been impressed with this 16” SS tube, I’d definitely try another one. |
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Originally Posted By Mister_H: https://i.imgur.com/fr5CmRT.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/4TooBpk.jpeg The 16” Proof shoots pretty good for a gas gun lol. I have a carbon one in the mail. Hope it shoots as well as yours! I bought a toolcraft BCG and am going to get the JP bolt. So I’ll have a spare toolcraft bolt for whatever reason. What buffer system are you using? |
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Originally Posted By GZ1: I have a carbon one in the mail. Hope it shoots as well as yours! I bought a toolcraft BCG and am going to get the JP bolt. So I’ll have a spare toolcraft bolt for whatever reason. What buffer system are you using? Originally Posted By GZ1: Originally Posted By Mister_H: https://i.imgur.com/fr5CmRT.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/4TooBpk.jpeg The 16” Proof shoots pretty good for a gas gun lol. I have a carbon one in the mail. Hope it shoots as well as yours! I bought a toolcraft BCG and am going to get the JP bolt. So I’ll have a spare toolcraft bolt for whatever reason. What buffer system are you using? I’m just running an H1 buffer with a HUXWRX suppressor. |
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Originally Posted By Mister_H: Let me know how that CF barrel does. I’ve been impressed with this 16” SS tube, I’d definitely try another one. Originally Posted By Mister_H: Originally Posted By doty_soty: All of mine (one 6arc, 1 6.5G, and 1 5.56) are their stainless. At least at the moment. I say that because I’ve had a CF 20” 6.5G in a receiver letting the bedding cure while its handguard is off getting cerakoted. Here next week I’ll have it put back together and off to the range. I bet it shoots nice but I doubt it outperforms the stainless. I think their SS is their best attempt at an accurate barrel, but their CF is their best attempt at an accurate barrel that’s lightweight, as in I bet that’s a compromise. But I haven’t shot it yet so I’m talking out of my ass. I will say, if I need an accurate barrel, I’ll consider a Proof SS to be a peer of those expensive custom spun jobs, and about as high end as you can get off the rack. Let me know how that CF barrel does. I’ve been impressed with this 16” SS tube, I’d definitely try another one. I’ve been tuning it the past few days. Usually I true the receiver face, bed the barrel/receiver, and crank the barrel nut on @ 50. Then I’ll go up and down on the barrel nut torque to find what it likes. FWIW, this one ended up liking 60ft/lb most. Usually lighter barrels need more, and usually Grendel needs more, so that’s about where I figured. I guess I say that to say I’m a bit more involved than most, but I do tend to get pretty good results, especially considering I still haven’t gotten into handloading. Anyway, the results are in and it’s shooting back to back sub-MOA 5-shot groups with AAC 123 Black Tips (what I’ve been using for hunting). Really closer to .75-.8 MOA. Both groups had 2-3 rounds in the same hole. It still doesn’t shoot quite as good as the stainless, but considering the weight savings I’m very happy with it. A better shooter could probably eke out some more, and all I’m using is a Caldwell bag front rest and a rice filled sock for a squeeze bag. Especially if one handloaded I’m sure this thing could get down closer to 1/2 MOA, and I don’t say that lightly. |
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So, I sold a 300 BLK upper and I’m looking to get into a 6ARC. Whats the absolute best money doesn’t matter 6ARC barrel out there? Or even upper. If G offered their 6ARC upper for $1600, I’d probably be a buyer. If Craddock wasn’t 4-6 months out I’d consider them… I’m looking for 12.5-14.5” barrel. So, who else should I consider? |
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Originally Posted By lilMAC25: So, I sold a 300 BLK upper and I’m looking to get into a 6ARC. Whats the absolute best money doesn’t matter 6ARC barrel out there? Or even upper. If G offered their 6ARC upper for $1600, I’d probably be a buyer. If Craddock wasn’t 4-6 months out I’d consider them… I’m looking for 12.5-14.5” barrel. So, who else should I consider? Craddock cut Bartlein (later) Proof Stainless (now) Craddock RTR (now) In that order. In your position I’d get a RTR now to cut your teeth, order the custom Bartlein, and sell the RTR when it ships. But specifically in 12.5 I’ll say Beer City Bullets has been awesome. I’ve not heard of them and thought the name was goofy, but it’s been an awesome barrel. Gassed well and has been at or under MOA with factory Hornady. I’ve been happy with mine. |
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Originally Posted By doty_soty: Craddock cut Bartlein (later) Proof Stainless (now) Craddock RTR (now) In that order. In your position I’d get a RTR now to cut your teeth, order the custom Bartlein, and sell the RTR when it ships. But specifically in 12.5 I’ll say Beer City Bullets has been awesome. I’ve not heard of them and thought the name was goofy, but it’s been an awesome barrel. Gassed well and has been at or under MOA with factory Hornady. I’ve been happy with mine. Originally Posted By doty_soty: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: So, I sold a 300 BLK upper and I’m looking to get into a 6ARC. Whats the absolute best money doesn’t matter 6ARC barrel out there? Or even upper. If G offered their 6ARC upper for $1600, I’d probably be a buyer. If Craddock wasn’t 4-6 months out I’d consider them… I’m looking for 12.5-14.5” barrel. So, who else should I consider? Craddock cut Bartlein (later) Proof Stainless (now) Craddock RTR (now) In that order. In your position I’d get a RTR now to cut your teeth, order the custom Bartlein, and sell the RTR when it ships. But specifically in 12.5 I’ll say Beer City Bullets has been awesome. I’ve not heard of them and thought the name was goofy, but it’s been an awesome barrel. Gassed well and has been at or under MOA with factory Hornady. I’ve been happy with mine. Leaning RTR for now. What stripped upper? Just BCM or similar? |
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Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Leaning RTR for now. What stripped upper? Just BCM or similar? Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Originally Posted By doty_soty: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: So, I sold a 300 BLK upper and I’m looking to get into a 6ARC. Whats the absolute best money doesn’t matter 6ARC barrel out there? Or even upper. If G offered their 6ARC upper for $1600, I’d probably be a buyer. If Craddock wasn’t 4-6 months out I’d consider them… I’m looking for 12.5-14.5” barrel. So, who else should I consider? Craddock cut Bartlein (later) Proof Stainless (now) Craddock RTR (now) In that order. In your position I’d get a RTR now to cut your teeth, order the custom Bartlein, and sell the RTR when it ships. But specifically in 12.5 I’ll say Beer City Bullets has been awesome. I’ve not heard of them and thought the name was goofy, but it’s been an awesome barrel. Gassed well and has been at or under MOA with factory Hornady. I’ve been happy with mine. Leaning RTR for now. What stripped upper? Just BCM or similar? The BCM is nice for a thermal fit, but I wish you could true the receiver face. I guess you can, like they make a special diameter tool for thermal fit ones, but rarely do you see them. I also saw B Kings makes a thermal fit one that I’m about to give a go on a 12.5 Proof. Dunno why it wouldn’t work the same, it was tight as shit when I installed it. Tighter than the BCMs usually are. I’ve actually had a BCM thermal fit that I could slot in with just firm hand pressure. That B Kings took a ton of heat, some grease, and a ton of taps with a rubber mallet. If I don’t go thermal fit I true&glue. A little loctite 609 or 620 and lightly hitting the receiver face makes for a much more unitized barrel/receiver fit. I’m not sure which does more, but I do consider either approach worthwhile. I’ve not gotten a RTR in 6arc, well actually I’ve not gotten a Craddock in 6arc in general. But I have plenty of both in other cartridges. Offhand an 18” 5.56, 14.5 5.56, 10” 300BLK, 14.5 300BLK, and a 13.9 6.5G. All are shooting well after a bit of effort and I do intend on buying more. I had an issue with a 13.9 Grendel of theirs, I guess they had a bad run of them or something, and they were super helpful in remedying the issue. |
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Originally Posted By doty_soty: The BCM is nice for a thermal fit, but I wish you could true the receiver face. I guess you can, like they make a special diameter tool for thermal fit ones, but rarely do you see them. I also saw B Kings makes a thermal fit one that I’m about to give a go on a 12.5 Proof. Dunno why it wouldn’t work the same, it was tight as shit when I installed it. Tighter than the BCMs usually are. I’ve actually had a BCM thermal fit that I could slot in with just firm hand pressure. That B Kings took a ton of heat, some grease, and a ton of taps with a rubber mallet. If I don’t go thermal fit I true&glue. A little loctite 609 or 620 and lightly hitting the receiver face makes for a much more unitized barrel/receiver fit. I’m not sure which does more, but I do consider either approach worthwhile. I’ve not gotten a RTR in 6arc, well actually I’ve not gotten a Craddock in 6arc in general. But I have plenty of both in other cartridges. Offhand an 18” 5.56, 14.5 5.56, 10” 300BLK, 14.5 300BLK, and a 13.9 6.5G. All are shooting well after a bit of effort and I do intend on buying more. I had an issue with a 13.9 Grendel of theirs, I guess they had a bad run of them or something, and they were super helpful in remedying the issue. Originally Posted By doty_soty: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Originally Posted By doty_soty: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: So, I sold a 300 BLK upper and I’m looking to get into a 6ARC. Whats the absolute best money doesn’t matter 6ARC barrel out there? Or even upper. If G offered their 6ARC upper for $1600, I’d probably be a buyer. If Craddock wasn’t 4-6 months out I’d consider them… I’m looking for 12.5-14.5” barrel. So, who else should I consider? Craddock cut Bartlein (later) Proof Stainless (now) Craddock RTR (now) In that order. In your position I’d get a RTR now to cut your teeth, order the custom Bartlein, and sell the RTR when it ships. But specifically in 12.5 I’ll say Beer City Bullets has been awesome. I’ve not heard of them and thought the name was goofy, but it’s been an awesome barrel. Gassed well and has been at or under MOA with factory Hornady. I’ve been happy with mine. Leaning RTR for now. What stripped upper? Just BCM or similar? The BCM is nice for a thermal fit, but I wish you could true the receiver face. I guess you can, like they make a special diameter tool for thermal fit ones, but rarely do you see them. I also saw B Kings makes a thermal fit one that I’m about to give a go on a 12.5 Proof. Dunno why it wouldn’t work the same, it was tight as shit when I installed it. Tighter than the BCMs usually are. I’ve actually had a BCM thermal fit that I could slot in with just firm hand pressure. That B Kings took a ton of heat, some grease, and a ton of taps with a rubber mallet. If I don’t go thermal fit I true&glue. A little loctite 609 or 620 and lightly hitting the receiver face makes for a much more unitized barrel/receiver fit. I’m not sure which does more, but I do consider either approach worthwhile. I’ve not gotten a RTR in 6arc, well actually I’ve not gotten a Craddock in 6arc in general. But I have plenty of both in other cartridges. Offhand an 18” 5.56, 14.5 5.56, 10” 300BLK, 14.5 300BLK, and a 13.9 6.5G. All are shooting well after a bit of effort and I do intend on buying more. I had an issue with a 13.9 Grendel of theirs, I guess they had a bad run of them or something, and they were super helpful in remedying the issue. B kings? I’ll probably just send a stripped upper for Craddock to barrel. OTOH, maybe I’ll wait until I sell the Bergara HMR 6.5Cr I just traded for, pool that $$ and a couple other bits I intend to sell and get a G$ rifle. Expensive though. A built upper is more my style, but I’m sure I could build an AR upper (need to get a clamshell vise block, but otherwise) I think I got the stuff. |
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Originally Posted By lilMAC25: B kings? I’ll probably just send a stripped upper for Craddock to barrel. OTOH, maybe I’ll wait until I sell the Bergara HMR 6.5Cr I just traded for, pool that $$ and a couple other bits I intend to sell and get a G$ rifle. Expensive though. A built upper is more my style, but I’m sure I could build an AR upper (need to get a clamshell vise block, but otherwise) I think I got the stuff. Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Originally Posted By doty_soty: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Originally Posted By doty_soty: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: So, I sold a 300 BLK upper and I’m looking to get into a 6ARC. Whats the absolute best money doesn’t matter 6ARC barrel out there? Or even upper. If G offered their 6ARC upper for $1600, I’d probably be a buyer. If Craddock wasn’t 4-6 months out I’d consider them… I’m looking for 12.5-14.5” barrel. So, who else should I consider? Craddock cut Bartlein (later) Proof Stainless (now) Craddock RTR (now) In that order. In your position I’d get a RTR now to cut your teeth, order the custom Bartlein, and sell the RTR when it ships. But specifically in 12.5 I’ll say Beer City Bullets has been awesome. I’ve not heard of them and thought the name was goofy, but it’s been an awesome barrel. Gassed well and has been at or under MOA with factory Hornady. I’ve been happy with mine. Leaning RTR for now. What stripped upper? Just BCM or similar? The BCM is nice for a thermal fit, but I wish you could true the receiver face. I guess you can, like they make a special diameter tool for thermal fit ones, but rarely do you see them. I also saw B Kings makes a thermal fit one that I’m about to give a go on a 12.5 Proof. Dunno why it wouldn’t work the same, it was tight as shit when I installed it. Tighter than the BCMs usually are. I’ve actually had a BCM thermal fit that I could slot in with just firm hand pressure. That B Kings took a ton of heat, some grease, and a ton of taps with a rubber mallet. If I don’t go thermal fit I true&glue. A little loctite 609 or 620 and lightly hitting the receiver face makes for a much more unitized barrel/receiver fit. I’m not sure which does more, but I do consider either approach worthwhile. I’ve not gotten a RTR in 6arc, well actually I’ve not gotten a Craddock in 6arc in general. But I have plenty of both in other cartridges. Offhand an 18” 5.56, 14.5 5.56, 10” 300BLK, 14.5 300BLK, and a 13.9 6.5G. All are shooting well after a bit of effort and I do intend on buying more. I had an issue with a 13.9 Grendel of theirs, I guess they had a bad run of them or something, and they were super helpful in remedying the issue. B kings? I’ll probably just send a stripped upper for Craddock to barrel. OTOH, maybe I’ll wait until I sell the Bergara HMR 6.5Cr I just traded for, pool that $$ and a couple other bits I intend to sell and get a G$ rifle. Expensive though. A built upper is more my style, but I’m sure I could build an AR upper (need to get a clamshell vise block, but otherwise) I think I got the stuff. Building is addicting and it’s tremendously useful to be able to take them apart and put them back together when things break or when you’re tweaking things. But if you start building don’t get a clamshell, get an action rod. The clamshell imparts a ton of force around the barrel pin etc and can bust a barrel if you’re not careful, and eventually you will. An action rod locks into the bolt teeth of the barrel and isolates the barrel on anything that needs torqued (muzzle device especially). |
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Originally Posted By doty_soty: Building is addicting and it’s tremendously useful to be able to take them apart and put them back together when things break or when you’re tweaking things. But if you start building don’t get a clamshell, get an action rod. The clamshell imparts a ton of force around the barrel pin etc and can bust a barrel if you’re not careful, and eventually you will. An action rod locks into the bolt teeth of the barrel and isolates the barrel on anything that needs torqued (muzzle device especially). Originally Posted By doty_soty: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Originally Posted By doty_soty: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Originally Posted By doty_soty: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: So, I sold a 300 BLK upper and I’m looking to get into a 6ARC. Whats the absolute best money doesn’t matter 6ARC barrel out there? Or even upper. If G offered their 6ARC upper for $1600, I’d probably be a buyer. If Craddock wasn’t 4-6 months out I’d consider them… I’m looking for 12.5-14.5” barrel. So, who else should I consider? Craddock cut Bartlein (later) Proof Stainless (now) Craddock RTR (now) In that order. In your position I’d get a RTR now to cut your teeth, order the custom Bartlein, and sell the RTR when it ships. But specifically in 12.5 I’ll say Beer City Bullets has been awesome. I’ve not heard of them and thought the name was goofy, but it’s been an awesome barrel. Gassed well and has been at or under MOA with factory Hornady. I’ve been happy with mine. Leaning RTR for now. What stripped upper? Just BCM or similar? The BCM is nice for a thermal fit, but I wish you could true the receiver face. I guess you can, like they make a special diameter tool for thermal fit ones, but rarely do you see them. I also saw B Kings makes a thermal fit one that I’m about to give a go on a 12.5 Proof. Dunno why it wouldn’t work the same, it was tight as shit when I installed it. Tighter than the BCMs usually are. I’ve actually had a BCM thermal fit that I could slot in with just firm hand pressure. That B Kings took a ton of heat, some grease, and a ton of taps with a rubber mallet. If I don’t go thermal fit I true&glue. A little loctite 609 or 620 and lightly hitting the receiver face makes for a much more unitized barrel/receiver fit. I’m not sure which does more, but I do consider either approach worthwhile. I’ve not gotten a RTR in 6arc, well actually I’ve not gotten a Craddock in 6arc in general. But I have plenty of both in other cartridges. Offhand an 18” 5.56, 14.5 5.56, 10” 300BLK, 14.5 300BLK, and a 13.9 6.5G. All are shooting well after a bit of effort and I do intend on buying more. I had an issue with a 13.9 Grendel of theirs, I guess they had a bad run of them or something, and they were super helpful in remedying the issue. B kings? I’ll probably just send a stripped upper for Craddock to barrel. OTOH, maybe I’ll wait until I sell the Bergara HMR 6.5Cr I just traded for, pool that $$ and a couple other bits I intend to sell and get a G$ rifle. Expensive though. A built upper is more my style, but I’m sure I could build an AR upper (need to get a clamshell vise block, but otherwise) I think I got the stuff. Building is addicting and it’s tremendously useful to be able to take them apart and put them back together when things break or when you’re tweaking things. But if you start building don’t get a clamshell, get an action rod. The clamshell imparts a ton of force around the barrel pin etc and can bust a barrel if you’re not careful, and eventually you will. An action rod locks into the bolt teeth of the barrel and isolates the barrel on anything that needs torqued (muzzle device especially). I should buy a reaction rod anyways. Ive built every other part of an AR. Never did install the barrel or gas system. Just not sure about thermal fitting (I’m assuming you’re heating up an upper to make it expand to fit a barrel), or squaring an upper. For me, that’s probably better left to an experienced hand. |
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Originally Posted By lilMAC25: I should buy a reaction rod anyways. Ive built every other part of an AR. Never did install the barrel or gas system. Just not sure about thermal fitting (I’m assuming you’re heating up an upper to make it expand to fit a barrel), or squaring an upper. For me, that’s probably better left to an experienced hand. Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Originally Posted By doty_soty: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Originally Posted By doty_soty: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Originally Posted By doty_soty: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: So, I sold a 300 BLK upper and I’m looking to get into a 6ARC. Whats the absolute best money doesn’t matter 6ARC barrel out there? Or even upper. If G offered their 6ARC upper for $1600, I’d probably be a buyer. If Craddock wasn’t 4-6 months out I’d consider them… I’m looking for 12.5-14.5” barrel. So, who else should I consider? Craddock cut Bartlein (later) Proof Stainless (now) Craddock RTR (now) In that order. In your position I’d get a RTR now to cut your teeth, order the custom Bartlein, and sell the RTR when it ships. But specifically in 12.5 I’ll say Beer City Bullets has been awesome. I’ve not heard of them and thought the name was goofy, but it’s been an awesome barrel. Gassed well and has been at or under MOA with factory Hornady. I’ve been happy with mine. Leaning RTR for now. What stripped upper? Just BCM or similar? The BCM is nice for a thermal fit, but I wish you could true the receiver face. I guess you can, like they make a special diameter tool for thermal fit ones, but rarely do you see them. I also saw B Kings makes a thermal fit one that I’m about to give a go on a 12.5 Proof. Dunno why it wouldn’t work the same, it was tight as shit when I installed it. Tighter than the BCMs usually are. I’ve actually had a BCM thermal fit that I could slot in with just firm hand pressure. That B Kings took a ton of heat, some grease, and a ton of taps with a rubber mallet. If I don’t go thermal fit I true&glue. A little loctite 609 or 620 and lightly hitting the receiver face makes for a much more unitized barrel/receiver fit. I’m not sure which does more, but I do consider either approach worthwhile. I’ve not gotten a RTR in 6arc, well actually I’ve not gotten a Craddock in 6arc in general. But I have plenty of both in other cartridges. Offhand an 18” 5.56, 14.5 5.56, 10” 300BLK, 14.5 300BLK, and a 13.9 6.5G. All are shooting well after a bit of effort and I do intend on buying more. I had an issue with a 13.9 Grendel of theirs, I guess they had a bad run of them or something, and they were super helpful in remedying the issue. B kings? I’ll probably just send a stripped upper for Craddock to barrel. OTOH, maybe I’ll wait until I sell the Bergara HMR 6.5Cr I just traded for, pool that $$ and a couple other bits I intend to sell and get a G$ rifle. Expensive though. A built upper is more my style, but I’m sure I could build an AR upper (need to get a clamshell vise block, but otherwise) I think I got the stuff. Building is addicting and it’s tremendously useful to be able to take them apart and put them back together when things break or when you’re tweaking things. But if you start building don’t get a clamshell, get an action rod. The clamshell imparts a ton of force around the barrel pin etc and can bust a barrel if you’re not careful, and eventually you will. An action rod locks into the bolt teeth of the barrel and isolates the barrel on anything that needs torqued (muzzle device especially). I should buy a reaction rod anyways. Ive built every other part of an AR. Never did install the barrel or gas system. Just not sure about thermal fitting (I’m assuming you’re heating up an upper to make it expand to fit a barrel), or squaring an upper. For me, that’s probably better left to an experienced hand. Truing involves a tool and a drill, and some grit grease. Isn’t much to it. Coat the tool with the grit grease, slide it into the upper, and give it a spin. Not too much, just enough to form a complete ring of silver. On some uppers it’s unnecessary, but most are some degree of out-of-square. Makes for an uneven mating surface from the upper to barrel collar. I would agree that while it’s not involved, it took me a bit to work up to doing it. Now I do it on all of them. The thermal fit though, you should try the thermal fit. Nothing to it. They’re just very slightly undersized barrel extensions, enough that heating them expands them to being a slip-fit. Hit the upper with a heat gun (some people use a torch, but I’ve never had problems with just a heat gun). Then quickly slide the barrel in. When it cools, it’s in there nice and tight. It won’t make a night and day difference, but it almost has to help and lots of people won’t do anything else. On my receivers that aren’t thermal fit I bed them with Loctite 609. Dunno that it’s better or worse than thermal, they both do more or less the same thing. The loctite expands as it dries and fills in any micro gaps in the barrel extension and unitizes the barrel/receiver. It’s terribly common among precision shooters. I now do it on all my rifles, just because while they’re not all precision rifles, I enjoy having precise rifles in general. Between that and working my way up and down barrel torque, I’ve gotten most of my ARs down to MOA with just AAC ammo. I’m sure it’d do better with Black Hills/FGMM, but I’m too cheap to shoot it enough to have a good feel for it. Even my little 12.5 Criterion Core can keep it inside a 1” dot @ 100 with 75gr AAC BTs, but it took me a few weeks of playing around with it to get it there. If you’re intimidated by thermal fit, don’t be. It only takes a heat gun and it’ll help your rifle shoot to its potential. No use getting a thousand dollar barrel just to not help it out any way you can. If you need to rebarrel just heat it back up and tap it out with a wooden dowel and a mallet. |
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I’m pretty set on a Lilja Barrel right now. One company offers them (SixSigmaArms out of Minn). Called and had a long conversation. I believe I’m just gonna let them do the work of assembly. Price isn’t prohibitive at all and they’ll literally go as far as to fart around with barrel nut torque to improve accuracy (for the cost a box of the ammo). |
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Originally Posted By lilMAC25: I’m pretty set on a Lilja Barrel right now. One company offers them (SixSigmaArms out of Minn). Called and had a long conversation. I believe I’m just gonna let them do the work of assembly. Price isn’t prohibitive at all and they’ll literally go as far as to fart around with barrel nut torque to improve accuracy (for the cost a box of the ammo). I’ve got a Lilja from them in 6.5G. Their thin barrel profile in 16”. It took a bit of work but I got it down to MOA with AAC black tips, but with factory Hornady ELDMs it’ll put 4 of 5 into one hole. It took work to get there and it wasn’t terribly impressive at first to be honest, but I’m very happy with the end result. Given the thin barrel profile it is a straight shooter and I’d buy again. |
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Originally Posted By doty_soty: I’ve got a Lilja from them in 6.5G. Their thin barrel profile in 16”. It took a bit of work but I got it down to MOA with AAC black tips, but with factory Hornady ELDMs it’ll put 4 of 5 into one hole. It took work to get there and it wasn’t terribly impressive at first to be honest, but I’m very happy with the end result. Given the thin barrel profile it is a straight shooter and I’d buy again. Originally Posted By doty_soty: Originally Posted By lilMAC25: I’m pretty set on a Lilja Barrel right now. One company offers them (SixSigmaArms out of Minn). Called and had a long conversation. I believe I’m just gonna let them do the work of assembly. Price isn’t prohibitive at all and they’ll literally go as far as to fart around with barrel nut torque to improve accuracy (for the cost a box of the ammo). I’ve got a Lilja from them in 6.5G. Their thin barrel profile in 16”. It took a bit of work but I got it down to MOA with AAC black tips, but with factory Hornady ELDMs it’ll put 4 of 5 into one hole. It took work to get there and it wasn’t terribly impressive at first to be honest, but I’m very happy with the end result. Given the thin barrel profile it is a straight shooter and I’d buy again. Thank you for your time and information, sir! |
6ARC Barrels/Uppers (Page 1 of 4)
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