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Posted: 8/17/2013 6:22:58 PM EDT
I have another question for the group. I have not picked up a jig yet for my 80% lower yet, but Braceman is finished and sending it to JT for anodizing finish. It got me to thinking about lower parts groups.

Does anyone have a suggestion where I can find a parkerized in manganese phosphate lower parts group for an M-16A1 model 603? I believe it can't have the line on the back side of the selector, but other wise is the same as an A2. Some of the kits out there are a high gloss black that won't work. Searching the web For seller sites does not yield a lot of details on finish or markings of their kits. I figured this team must already have a source figured out through trial and error.

As always, thanks for the help.
Link Posted: 8/17/2013 6:28:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/17/2013 6:37:08 PM EDT by gordog]
DPMS is Good to Go!, No the color wont be correct, but, you could do the Naval Jelly trick to get the steel parts a nice grey. The Mag button will either have to be Cerecoted, Molyresined, Anodized, or you could just buy one already done up on the Equipment Exchange. I know Boywonder has some.
Link Posted: 8/17/2013 7:02:28 PM EDT
Sarco has no-tic selectors but they are black and full auto so you would need to mod them but no big deal
Link Posted: 8/17/2013 7:05:14 PM EDT
Bare with me because I am new to the resto game, but what is the navy jelly trick?
Link Posted: 8/17/2013 7:41:33 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By 5437:
Bare with me because I am new to the resto game, but what is the navy jelly trick?
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It changes the color of the parkerized parts from black to gray. I did it last week and it turned out great except the mag release body and take down pins they seemed to be blued as apossed to parked.
Link Posted: 8/17/2013 7:54:21 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Sandusky:

It changes the color of the parkerized parts from black to gray. I did it last week and it turned out great except the mag release body and take down pins they seemed to be blued as apossed to parked.
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Originally Posted By Sandusky:
Originally Posted By 5437:
Bare with me because I am new to the resto game, but what is the navy jelly trick?

It changes the color of the parkerized parts from black to gray. I did it last week and it turned out great except the mag release body and take down pins they seemed to be blued as apossed to parked.


Is it a simple as dipping the parked parts in navy jelly and rinsing them off?
Link Posted: 8/17/2013 8:23:03 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By 5437:


Is it a simple as dipping the parked parts in navy jelly and rinsing them off?
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Originally Posted By 5437:
Originally Posted By Sandusky:
Originally Posted By 5437:
Bare with me because I am new to the resto game, but what is the navy jelly trick?

It changes the color of the parkerized parts from black to gray. I did it last week and it turned out great except the mag release body and take down pins they seemed to be blued as apossed to parked.


Is it a simple as dipping the parked parts in navy jelly and rinsing them off?


Pretty much. I've been lucky enough to find grey parts by digging through parts kits, so I haven't tried this.

As best I can remember the process was: Clean the parts thoroughly to remove all oil residue. A film of oil left behind will result in a splotchy uneven finish. Dip in NJ, use a soft bristle toothbrush to scrub parts. Rinse in hot water to remove NJ, then re-oil to prevent rusting.
Link Posted: 8/18/2013 5:22:13 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By Sandusky:

It changes the color of the parkerized parts from black to gray. I did it last week and it turned out great except the mag release body and take down pins they seemed to be blued as apossed to parked.
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Originally Posted By Sandusky:
Originally Posted By 5437:
Bare with me because I am new to the resto game, but what is the navy jelly trick?

It changes the color of the parkerized parts from black to gray. I did it last week and it turned out great except the mag release body and take down pins they seemed to be blued as apossed to parked.


"except the mag release body"...............you're not talking about the magazine release button are you?............the button isn't parkerized...........it is aluminum and thus is anodized.
Link Posted: 8/18/2013 6:15:40 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By Stoner25mkiv:


"except the mag release body"...............you're not talking about the magazine release button are you?............the button isn't parkerized...........it is aluminum and thus is anodized.
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Originally Posted By Stoner25mkiv:
Originally Posted By Sandusky:
Originally Posted By 5437:
Bare with me because I am new to the resto game, but what is the navy jelly trick?

It changes the color of the parkerized parts from black to gray. I did it last week and it turned out great except the mag release body and take down pins they seemed to be blued as apossed to parked.


"except the mag release body"...............you're not talking about the magazine release button are you?............the button isn't parkerized...........it is aluminum and thus is anodized.


No sent that off to John Thomas with the trigger guard to have it reanodized XM gray.
Link Posted: 8/18/2013 12:05:42 PM EDT
I ended up picking up a CMMG lower parts kit locally. The price was the same as I found online without shipping. The selector has a line cut in the back and I was wondering if lightly filing it down would work? Debating if I should play around or just send everything to JT to let him work on them. Still have not found a jig and bits...
Link Posted: 8/18/2013 12:59:28 PM EDT
If the "LINE" is light enough,,, ive filed down lots of them. Just try to keep your file running LEVEL. Ive had better success just holding the selector in hand and rotating it on top of a piece of sandpaper.
Link Posted: 8/18/2013 1:06:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/18/2013 1:07:51 PM EDT by Cal30M1]
I filed the tic off and then "weathered" it for my BFPU.

I didn't want to ruin one of Boywonder's no tick safeties.

ETA He types faster!
Link Posted: 8/19/2013 11:34:35 AM EDT
I have a couple of the selectors so I sanded one of the "Tick" lines off. It is much deeper then I had thought. Couple more questions. Is the trigger guard anodized or parked? I understand the mag release button is anodized and will need to be redone, but what about the trigger guard? Should the trigger it's self be black or dark gray?
Link Posted: 8/19/2013 11:52:19 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By 5437:
I have a couple of the selectors so I sanded one of the "Tick" lines off. It is much deeper then I had thought. Couple more questions. Is the trigger guard anodized or parked? I understand the mag release button is anodized and will need to be redone, but what about the trigger guard? Should the trigger it's self be black or dark gray?
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trigger guard is anodized.  selectors have different depths of ticks.  some is a very light line, others are a thick v notch.
Link Posted: 8/19/2013 9:26:34 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Banshee35:
Sarco has no-tic selectors but they are black and full auto so you would need to mod them but no big deal
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The pre-modded one I got from them is tic'd
Link Posted: 8/20/2013 5:28:28 AM EDT
Seems to me that if you were going to sand/file the tic mark off, that you could just as easily Tig the groove up and then sand/grind/file it back smooth. That way you wouldn't run the risk of having it below the plane of the receiver which would be a givaway of having been reworked.
Link Posted: 8/20/2013 6:02:03 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Stoner25mkiv:
Seems to me that if you were going to sand/file the tic mark off, that you could just as easily Tig the groove up and then sand/grind/file it back smooth. That way you wouldn't run the risk of having it below the plane of the receiver which would be a givaway of having been reworked.
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I don't have access to a Tig, just an old Mig. The lack of fine control on it would make a mess of the selector, but I had though of it. I also thought about a smear of JB weld, but I doubt that would take a park finish. If I knew more about what the correct part really were I would just buy them at this point, but I'm new to this, so I'm still learning.
Link Posted: 8/26/2013 10:23:13 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/26/2013 10:39:24 PM EDT by kosherbacon]
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Originally Posted By 5437:
I don't have access to a Tig, just an old Mig. The lack of fine control on it would make a mess of the selector, but I had though of it. I also thought about a smear of JB weld, but I doubt that would take a park finish. If I knew more about what the correct part really were I would just buy them at this point, but I'm new to this, so I'm still learning.
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http://i.imgur.com/azjYzg9.jpg

If you mix it dark, it comes off as "close enough" to parkered steel, color-wise. Here's my neutered auto selector from sarco after i put a thin layer of JB weld onto the surface with the tick mark. The visible portions have been naval-jelly'd. I might try dry brushing some metallic model paints later.

ETA:

It's a good thing I didn't decide to grind off the tick mark! It's already noticeably shorter than an average semi-auto switch, and was markedly recessed when inserted into a lower.

http://i.imgur.com/tbkGgzY.jpg
Link Posted: 8/27/2013 4:23:06 AM EDT
That is the selector I modified. I had not thought to compare it to a standard one. I'll check it later, but from the look of your pictures, it is a waste now...
Link Posted: 9/11/2013 7:49:43 PM EDT
After the tick was removed the modified auto selector is too short at this point. It's a bummer to because I had the lower engraved with the auto mark and it would have been fun to be able to put it in the auto position, even if it was just for show. I may order another one and try the JB weld trick. On the color, John Thomas did a great job on making it 1980 Colt gray/blue of the model 603. Matches the upper well. Does that mean the color right out of the box of the lower parts should be correct? No way gray is correct for this color lower. Any thoughts?
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