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11/20/2019 5:07:11 PM
Posted: 5/17/2005 9:21:17 AM EST
[Last Edit: 5/22/2005 11:24:51 PM EST by kiyoar15man]
Anyone ever remove the muzzle break from the beowulf? I need to remove it so I can install a FF Handguard. I called Alexander Arms and they said it was permanetly attached with loctite and I could't remove it. They weren't very helpfull. I don't see any welds and there are 4 allen head screw around the break.

Link Posted: 5/17/2005 9:24:36 AM EST
Need pics.
Link Posted: 5/17/2005 9:40:19 AM EST
[Last Edit: 5/17/2005 9:41:12 AM EST by wulf50guy]
If it's installed at the factory like it is if you buy the after market kit, It's held on with loctite bonding agent.( I can't remember which one)
I think it can be removed but you will have to heat it (really hot), I suggest a high temp electric heat gun.
the bonder is in the set screw holes as well.
It's put on there to stay so,
You may can get it off or you may not, I don't know.
Alexander may do it differently.

What kind of rail/free float are you tryng to install?
Link Posted: 5/17/2005 9:42:49 AM EST
From Alexander Arms Web Site:


The muzzle brake reduces the felt recoil by approximately 50%. It can be fitted on new uppers/rifles or can be purchased as a kit to be fitted by your dealer. In order to protect the barrel, the muzzle brake is fitted via industrial strength adhesive and will withstand up to 16,000 lbs pull off force.

Link Posted: 5/22/2005 11:33:20 AM EST
[Last Edit: 5/22/2005 11:19:48 PM EST by kiyoar15man]
Link Posted: 5/22/2005 4:31:25 PM EST
[Last Edit: 5/22/2005 4:41:05 PM EST by wulf50guy]
One more time...
What make of Free float are you trying to install ?
I know the ones from Troy and ARMS ( SIR) all you have to do is cut the delta ring/spring/lock ring off.
IF you can't get it off there that may be your only choice.

ETA: Unless you pull the barrel and the tube will go over the gas block.
Never installed one like that.
So forgive me if I'm incorrect.
Link Posted: 5/22/2005 7:20:25 PM EST
i have tried removing the muzzle brake that i installed myself and it aint no walk in the park.

after getting heated up its a pain trying to get the setscrews out cause they have also softened and then they start to strip.

after the first one started to strip and pounding on the brake with no movement i stopped.

i plan on using the troy/samson freefloat on mine now
Link Posted: 5/22/2005 8:35:11 PM EST
"break" means to damage. "brake" means to slow down.

Muzzle BRAKE!!!
Link Posted: 5/23/2005 12:46:25 AM EST
Do a search for the member on here called trestles.
That's Bill, email him and he will answer you and and help you out.
Be patient It make take him a little bit.
But he will help you out and answer your questions.
Link Posted: 5/23/2005 10:44:33 AM EST
i doubt you will find a free float and locking ring that will work with that barrel nut you have.

why not give AA a call and see what he can offer. afterwards let us know what he says. i didnt bother to call him cause there was other design freefloats i could use without the added work so i gave up as soon as i saw that it was stripping.

the part that sucks the most is i just recently put on the brake myself before i decided to add a freefloat to it.
Link Posted: 5/23/2005 12:30:43 PM EST
I did call AA they said they make there own FF tube and don't know what other FF tube will fit the barrel nut.
I did see somewere else here were someone took off a brake that was pined on. He drilled the pins out and cut the brake with a dremel tool down the length of the brake. Just enough where he could pry it apart. I might have to go this route. Or I can take the hanguard off and have flutes cut in it so I can add rails to it.
I wanted one without the brake. But, I had no choise. I waited 5 months after ordering my upper. And when they got it with a brake I took it . Didn't want to wait another 5months.

Link Posted: 5/24/2005 3:23:33 AM EST
what you are refferring to is removal of a pinned brake or flash suppressor.

those are threaded on and then pinned in place so that removal is not easy. the aa brake is bonded to the barrel with the loctite and then the set screws just there for added hold. if you cut the brake the pieces cut will still be bonded to the barrel.

Link Posted: 5/24/2005 8:15:41 AM EST
What color was the loctite that you used? How did you heat the brake? You use a propane torch or a regular welding torch? So, the brake is not threaded right? I've had some experiance with the red loctite it is hard to break loose. But, if heated enough it will loosen. Is it the set screws you are having trouble with?
Link Posted: 5/25/2005 3:23:03 AM EST
the loctite is green.

its bonding agent and not thread locker.

i heated it with a mapp torch but didnt get it cherry red cause i didnt want to mess anything up.

the set screws become soft and dont unscrew and the loctite doesnt budge.

you could get someone to mill it off.

sell the upper and buy a different one.
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