Is this the same as the old 3 in 1 gun oil. i cant find moly grease anywhere. could you please help the confused.......

Moly Grease

ETA: I've never used it as a weapons lube, so I can't comment on it.

What are you planning on using it for.  The only "moly grease" that I know of associated with ARs is the special grease you use on the upper receiver threads when you install a barrel.  I get that from Sky Geek.  Or rather "got" that, since a 14oz tube should last me until the sun burns out...  This is the "right" grease, meeting MIL-SPECs for the M16 series weapons, and I think it's THE way to go for barrel nuts.

Try it on your action....

It will turn everything it touched black...Everything.

It will hours of cleaning to get rid of it.

KyARGuy

In the assembly section for lower receivers some say to put some moly grease for the pins on the trigger and hammer

The USMC TM says to use Moly Grease on the barrel nut to prevent GALLING of the threads.

One of the ingredients is Molybdenum disulfide, which is a high pressure additive that embeds itself into the metal and helps to prevent damage on metal to metal contact.

You can find it at any autoparts store, usually "Disc Brake Wheel Bearing Grease", if there is NOT Moly in the name, look at the fine print in the label, if it has its, it will usually say so in the fine print on the label.  Also at the auto parts store, Assembly lube usually has moly in it as well.  As well, appearance of the grease, moly grease often looks black/grey like it has graphite mixed in it, but NOT always.

Do a search on Spark Plugs in Aluminum Cylinder Heads, you'll see that galling is common problem of the aluminum heads.  Now think about it, the environment for the barrel nut and spark plug in aluminum head is pretty similar.  Galling is the surface of the metal getting chewed up and chunk ripped out of the surface, steel aluminum threads together with some heat create differential metal corrosion that sticks them together and the softer aluminum threads can be destroyed while taking them apart.

You'll see lots of people post to use just any old lube/grease for the threads, I've seen lots of old mechanics swear you can use anything on spark plugs, even Vaseline, as long as you use some sort of good lube it will prevent the threads from seizing and galling. I'd think the safest course of action would be to use Moly Grease like in the TM or Anti-Seize which is designed to prevent galling on spark plugs, and people have used on AR's reporting it worked fine.

My son and I have a surplus Mauser, a cleaning guide we downloaded off the internet suggested lubing up the firing pin and spring with Moly Grease, which we did, liberally with the thick wheel bearing moly grease in the above picture.  The action was a little sticky the first couple of trigger pulls but it  quickly settled down into smooth operation in that 70 year old rifle.

Besides putting it on barrel nut threads, I also use it for lubricant on my bolt carrier.  It seems to resist drying out from heat much better than regular lubricating oil.

Use Tetra on your pins...after you have polished them.....also on the detents , etc.....

You can get it in Wally-world.Go to the automotive section and buy a grease-gun tube of "moly" grease, about 5-6 bucks.Should have enough for a lifetime...

Automotive moly grease has graphite in it-every single brand I've been able to research.  You do NOT want graphite between a steel barrel nut and an aluminum upper receiver.  No, I can't show you evidence of what it does, but the action is called "dissimilar metals galvanic corrosion."  Graphite makes a damn fine electrolyte to make galvanic corrosion go that much faster.  For a few bucks more, AeroShell 33MS, which is MIL-SPEC and has no graphite, is worth it to me.

Sometimes you can get chain lube with moly in it. It comes in a spray can.

I have some Valvoline Multi-Purpose Grease (disc brake, wheel bearings, steeering linkage, chassis, suspensions, unversal joints). Is this okay? Not your typical white grease.

Bushmaster also sells a little 1 oz jar, about 3/4 of the way down this page:

http://www.bushmaster.com/products.asp?cat=16

Has anyone ever not used grease at all or the "wrong" type?

I'm curious as to how much actual shooting it would take (# of mag dumps?) to get it to tear it up.

I've always pretty much been of the opinion if you can afford to shoot something to destruction, you can probably afford to replace whatever part you need.

I use it on all my guns.  My dads department uses it on their AR's.

http://www.restockit.com/images/Product/medium/692-41160.jpg

Looks like Vaseline.  Works great and a little goes a long way.

More info:  Super Lube

They even make a nuclear grade incase you're really in the shit.....HERE

What about this stuff? I got a tube of it at bravocompany when I bought some PMags, haven't used it for anything yet. Any good?Anything I should NOT lube with it? Other than my own ass

That's good stuff. So is Tetra Gun Grease.



It doesn't take much of either and it does last if worked in and then wiped off on points needing lubrication.

Know any place where you can buy pure Molybdenum or Tungsten disulfide for cheap?

I have some of that labratory grade moly bullet lube stuff from NECO.
It has 0% graphite. Never used it on bullets but it kicks ass on most things you would want to grease.
Also had excellent results over the last twenty years with the Sandstrom 9A "Solid Film Lubricant"
Yah,,I Like Moly when its used correctly.

Order the real stuff from Bushmaster, Midway, etc.  and be done with it.  A little container will practically last forever...

I use this, Sta-lube extreme pressure assembly lube. Available at most auto parts stores.

$15 including shipping for more barrel nut grease than my grandchildren's children will need?  OH YEAH!

Guys are throwing up a bunch of different greases without any real regard to what is REQUIRED.

Like mentioned, there is a source for the actual military MilSpec Grease that the TM calls for.  This would be the safest grease to use for assembly, its been proven through heavy use by the military.

The TM references Moly Grease, I, and others, can tell you from experience, that aluminum mated to steel threads can be damaged/destroyed easily during assembly and disassembly, especially if they are exposed to heat and pressure, like the barrel nut is on an AR-15. THE Moly is the active ingredient that prevents the GALLING of the threads.

The idea here is NOT to lubricate to reduce friction, its part corrosion prevent, but mostly preventing galling of threads which will squeeze 99% of the grease out of them, its the hi-pressure additives that remains on the threads and protects against galling.  So just because you like a grease so much better for your BCG or pistol slide, doesn't mean its better suited for PREVENTING GALLING on the barrel nut threads.  If you ever have to loosen your barrel NUT, and you didn't use something to prevent galling, its very likely you can destroy the threads and have to replace the upper receiver and barrel nut (which can be a huge pain to get off the barrel).  Even if you don't think you'll ever take your barrel off, what if run into the crooked FSB issue and have to remove the barrel nut and shim.  Even if you just torqued down the barrel nut a few minutes ago, without the Moly to prevent galling, you could destroy the threads.  As well, there is the whole torque issue, torques are different between dry and wet threads and the grease you use will change the torque to clamping force as well.  

If you're NOT going to use the MilSpec Grease, I would "think" the next best thing would be a High Quality High Temperature Grease with Molybdenum Disulphide (MOLY) in it or Anti-Seize, which is specifically formulated to Prevent GALLING.

Yes, I know you will find posts with people saying they used this or that and it worked just fine, like I posted before, you'll see shade tree mechanics and pros tell you they used all sorts of different lubes on spark plugs and they worked fine as well.  BUT, which do you THINK would be smarter to use, a hi-quality product specifically formulated for your requirements OR any old substance that anecdotal testimony says it worked. At least pick a grease that will prevent GALLING of aluminum to steel threads, NOT your favorite grease.

Personally, I'm going to risk it and use my $4 dollar tub of Moly Disc Brake Wheel Bearing Grease from the local Auto Store, instead of spending all the money and hassle of ordering the MilSpec, I could turn out to be wrong, but I think from the info I gathered it should be a "reasonable" substitute.

An entrepreneur would get cheap little containers and divide all that grease up into 1/2 oz portions, then offer them for sale for $2 a unit.  Make a nice little profit.

So I'm new to the AR but I have this tube of TW25B grease. I'm not about to take apart my barrel; I don't have the tools or skillz. Aside from my nuts galling, what else (that is accessible), should I lube up with the grease that standard CLP won't take care of? Again, other than my own arse .

Yeah, but that takes a resource I don't have.  "Time."  Picture 35mm film canisters and a gun for squeezing the grease out of that cartridge I bought...  $2 for 1/2 oz would be about 100% profit before paying for those little film canisters...

I used CVA anti seize stick, it is a high temp stick lube for breach plugs and choke tubes, am I ok with it on barrel nuts? It does not have Moly but graphite.

I use some stuff I got from Sentry Solutions.  Seems to work fine.

So am I ok with this stuff?

The TM calls for moly grease.  Graphite is not recommended between steel and aluminum surfaces.  What do you think?

I was at Wally-world the other day and decided to swing by the grease section- they had a tube of Moly Lithium grease- would this be ok to use on the barrel nut and upper receiver when installing a new barrel? From what I can tell it didn't have any graphite in it. Im assuming this would be safe?

Look up the MSDS online and see if it shows graphite, zinc, etc.

They don't have to put graphite on the label for it to have it.

So wait, are you saying graphite is not recommeded?

For a while I was using that DRI SLIDE stuff, doesn't that have graphite in it?

The "moly-lithium" that Wally World sells DOES have graphite in it.  Check the MSDS for it.  I went through a LOT of MSDSs before I finally caved and ordered AeroShell 33MS.

Right. Graphite can cause galvanization between the steel and aluminum.

Here's the MSDS for what I've been using:

PETROLEUM DISTILLATES
HYDROTREATED HEAVY 12-HYDROXYSTEARIC ACID
MOLYBDENUM DISULFIDE
LITHIUM HYDROXIDE MONOHYDRATE

Valvoline DuraBlend synthetic grease. Like $3.97 at AutoZone.

Works well enough. No zinc or graphite and doesn't seem like the other stuff, corrosion inhibitors, are going to hurt.

Good to know, I'm glad I stopped using that stuff.

i use permatex silver antisieze on  barrel nut and buffer tube and castle nut

Loctite Moly Paste

According to the MSDS, nothing but Moly and petroleum distillates.  No graphite in sight.

I've had an 8 oz can for over three years now, and honestly cannot picture finishing the contents before I die unless I contact with Colt to assemble rifles for them.

I've been putting Permatex Silver Anti-seize between aluminum and steel parts on motorcycles,cars and trucks for more years than I'd care to admit.                        I wouldn't hesitate to use it on an AR barrel nut.  

"PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
PermatexÒ Anti-Seize Lubricant is a heavy duty, high
temperature lubricant that prevents galling, seizing and
corrosion during assembly and assures easier disassembly.
Also reduces wear in heavy pressure applications. The
product contains a refined blend of aluminum, copper and
graphite lubricants that can be used on slow moving parts.
Meets or exceed the requirements of Military Specification Mil-
A-907E."

You are correct, the Super Tech Moly Lithium at Walmart does have graphite:

http://msds.walmartstores.com/cache/343515.pdf

After reading this post I opted to order the moly grease Bushmaster sells.  After two weeks and two emails (with no response) I called Bushmaster.  The person I spoke to informed me that the grease was on back order.  So I cancelled my order.  Later that day I got an email from Bushmaster responding to the email I had sent them a week ago about the status of my order.  They informed me that my order was cancelled.  Way to be on the ball.

So I then clicked on the link to Sky Geek that someone had posted.  Two days later I am holding a tube of grease that has more grease than I will ever need in my lifetime.  I guess I'll have to build a few more rifles so I'm not wasting any grease.

The MSDS for the above product does not list moly as an ingredient.  It does list graphite though.  Link

Here's the MSDS for the 33ms
http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GSAP_msds_00018916.PDF

Don't be a fag!  

I use drake assembly grease with moly in it.

napa sells a tub of Wheel Bearing Grease. It's pure molly... and it's cheap. One tub will last you forever.

I use anything.I'm pretty old fashioned that way.Bearing grease works good for assembly.But I have found that gun oil works for pretty much anything.

KG makes a full line of industrial and firearm moly lube products.

KG Moly products