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Posted: 6/17/2007 12:03:18 PM EDT
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I hear they get wobbly after a while. I'm ordering one tomorrow (should have ordered a long time ago), and always hear only bad about them (uncomfortable, gets wobbly, blah blah). I guess, do they come loose, and what can I do if the stock does become loose? Thanks, Tyler |
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Nothing really. You can reweld the trunnion holes and have them drilled out again, but that's about it...basically rebuild the rear half of the receiver. Once they become wobbly, they tend to stay that way. You can tighten the nut that holds the stock assembly in place, but that's a temporary fix that doesn't really solve anything. For what it's worth, I have a mid-80's Polytech with 10k+ rounds down the tube that's still pretty tight. I also have a Polish underfolder with less than 2k that's already showing some play. Just depends on how precise the trunnion holes were drilled that day. |
They are worth it if you already have a fixed stock AK and just want something different. Or if you just like the "cool" factor of an underfolder. Most of us will never use them for their intended purpose (compact rifles for easy ingress/egress from vehicles or paratroopers) so it just comes down to whether or not you want one. I like my underfolders for what they are and I'll always have a couple in my collection, but they are just range toys to me. My sidefolders and fixed stock AK's are much more practical weapons due to the durability and ergonomics, IMO. |
| Sidefolders add quite a bit of cost, as I can't find a normal side folder (not a wire one) anywhere, and I don't feel like installing it myself. Basically my choices are whatever's on atlantic's website. And the only ones I like are the Lancaster Polish Underfolder, and Lancaster AKM. |
I'm not talking about accuracy, it would just bother me to have a wobble in my stock while shooting. This is more comfort than anything I guess, i've only handled a yugo underfolder. Nobody even mentioned accuracy 
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My only current AK is an underfolder, and I built it myself, so the wobble is considerable.  However, when you have it tight against your shoulder, it will naturally be tight against one extreme or the other (up or down). There is no side-to-side wobble, and shooting it is very comfortable. |
It doesn't help that they look so frickin cool...yay more flip flopping  I have to decide by tomorrow, I need help  How far is the wobble? Is it just a little bit or is it really noticeable? I'm guessing this is going to be a rifle of higher quality, so...Last edit...I have flip flopped myself back onto the underfolder side...thank you everybody...good night 
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No one ever said the wobble affected accuracy. My wobbly Polish underfolder shoots just as well as my solid Chicom. It's just slightly annoying to hear/feel the stock move up and down when it's locked in either position. Right now, my loose rifle has about 3/8" of play up/down when locked. It's still very solid from side-to-side. Shoots just fine, though. |
That last stuff...I have no idea what that means. |
I believe it was Townsend Whelen who wrote that, "Only accurate rifles are interesting." As a general proposition I would tend to agree with him, until I bought an AR15 and shot an AK. Few things are more frustrating than a firearm that cannot be made to function. minute of angle (MOA) |
 That's a stamped receiver that's been drilled for the underfolding trunnion. See the big hole with the indents at the top and bottom? That's where the folding mechanism rotates. The locking pins in the stock fit in those indentions. Those indents get larger over time from the force of recoil and general use. This is what causes the wobble. To fix the wobble, you'd need to weld that big hole closed, then drill it out again. |
That sounds hard
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Not for a good welder. However, you'd likely run into issues with the heat treating and that issue alone is enough for me to just buy a new receiver if the problem became too bad. Receivers are cheaper than paying a good welder. 
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So if you're building your own (I know the OP isn't), it would be a good idea to harden that area the same as you do the hammer/trigger pin holes. That should slow down wear on home builds. |
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It's purely dependent on how much you use the rifle and how well it was built. Hypothetically, lets say a particular rifle will begin to loosen up after 5k rounds. In your case, that would take about 5yrs. In my case, it would take less than a year. In both cases, the round count would be about the same. |
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The Polish parts are top notch. You won't find a better European underfolder on a stamped receiver. The wobble issue is related to the receiver, not the parts kit. If the builder uses a good quality, properly hardened receiver and cuts the pin indents correctly, then you'll be fine and it will take a long time for a wobble to develop. However, It only takes a minute amount of error in that process to create a wobble. Once the indents begin to enlarge, the wear occurs much faster since there is more movement and more force being applied to the pins. This is my Polish rifle. It's not easy to see, but the stock doesn't sit flush against the bottom handguard. When the rifle hangs from the sling, there is about 3/8" of space between the buttplate and the handguard. It just flops up/down a bit. I'll try to get better pics tomorrow to show what I'm describing. It's still a great rifle and I wouldn't sell it for twice the amount I paid for the kit/parts/build. 
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They're nice. Definitely nicer than some of the others out there. The one in Mike321's picture looks about typical as far as looks go. Most of them seem to be as nice inside as they are outside. At least the ones I've seen/shot. Good stuff. |
Thanks DRich. I didn't realize you had to do that. I guess it would be better to replace the receiver. |
LOL - yes, I know what MOA means. 
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Since we are dissecting the wobble problem in underfolders so thouroughly and I too soon will probably be the proud owner of a Polska UF let me ask a question. Heat treating the area sounds like a good idea but this could just be a design flaw. Something that is going to wear no matter what but life is full of trade offs. Length of life vs. compactness and "coolness" factor. Anyhow when the time comes that wobble it too bad could you do this instead of welding up the hole and redrilling or doing a rebuild? Take say a properly sized steel washer that covers a good bit of that hole and beyond. Mark off where the original opening should be (not the extra bits that have worn away). Drill out the washer with correct original hole specs. Heat treat the washer. JB Weld the washer in place on the inside of the receiver. Would that work or are the tolerances too tight within the receiver? Or is there a flaw in this plan I am not seeing. Yeah its WECSOG but it seems easier than either of the alternatives. And I am not sure how hard it is to remove something once it has been JB welded but if you have a means of doing that without damaging the receiver you could do it over and over again. Thoughts? Cheers, RWB64 |
Damn. Well I tried. I guess I have to stop getting my ideas from the Acme and Ajax companies.  I wasn't thinking about the rear trunion at all after seeing the picture of just the receiver. Anyway to do this on the OUTSIDE of the receiver and keep it hidden? Or would it stretch the folding stock apart too much? I can't say I am familiar with how the whole underfolder stock is attached.But I will be. Just closed a deal on a sweet looking Polish Underfolder that I will have paid off in the beginning of July. (Does new AK happy dance)    Excuse me now as I have to strap on my rocket propelled roller skates and get to the Post Office. LOL Cheers, RWB64 |
You know TGORSK08 your lucky I'm home sick today. I just called them and they said they would take care of it. But call anyways to make sure all of them say the same. |
 Actually the folding stock locks up in the rear trunnion through the horizontal small holes next to the big hole. Receiver holes are just access holes, however, they do work in conjunction with trunnion holes. Do not worry about the wobble, it is normal. A car develops steering wheel play, and you buy one, don't you? |
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Quote from Lancaster's site: www.lancasterarms.com/AK%20CLASSICS.htm If you have a choice of receiver, choose NodakSpud NDS-1P over Global Trades, or, Global Trades over Nodak NDS-3 "economy". Lancaster's description is ambiguous as far as NodakSpud receivers are concerned. You may expect premium NDS-1P, and end up with NDS-3. |
No, locking mechanism locks into the trunnion through the receiver holes. In case of 1.6 mm receiver, the trunnion has to be ground off .3 mm on each side to fit. |
7.62x39 AK's are not known for accuracy. I've shot quite a few of them (chinese, egyptian, romanian, bulgarian [which was milled] and polish) and I'd say an average group for them is probably in the 4 to 6 inch range at 100 yards. That being said, the polish one I have is on the tighter end of the spectrum, and another polish one I shot a while back was as well. If you want better accuracy in an AK, go with an AK74 (5.45x39). I have a bulgarian one that will hold groups inside of 2" at 100 yards with no particular effort from sandbags. I've heard other people say they've had better accuracy from the smaller rounds as well. YMMV. |
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