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Posted: 10/12/2005 12:26:38 PM EDT
Ok-I'm a New Yorker so I need to silver solder my romanian muzzlebrake to the FSB. I'd like to hear from someone who's actually done it -any advice, tips or reccommendations? Will the necessary heat permanently discolor the break or FSB. Thanks !
Link Posted: 10/12/2005 3:22:18 PM EDT
You need to clean both the end of the barrel and the break threads with some good degreaser like brake cleaner. Apply the 1200' silver solder to both surfaces to get even coverage. Screw the brake onto the barrel and mount the entire assembly horizontally to do the heating. You need a mapp torch with Oxy to get up to 1200' but the Oxy tank only lasts 20 min before it is empty. So to help with that use a propane torch on each side to get it close (it gets it real close). I monitor the temp with a digital thermometer. When it gets close and the temp is no longer rising, light up the mapp and get it the rest of the way. When it reaches close to 1200' the solder will wick into the joint like solder on a copper pipe. Shut everything off and wait about 1/2 hour for everyting to cool off. Then you are done except for finishing. You will probably have to wire brush and refinsh because 1200' is pretty darn hot!!!
Link Posted: 10/12/2005 3:22:21 PM EDT

Originally Posted By ACDer:
Will the necessary heat permanently discolor the break or FSB. Thanks !



To be legal, the silver solder melts around 1200 deg f. That pretty much does it for the paint and finish. Be sure to wrap the barrel with wet rags and put the heat on the break not the barrel.

I have tried both the silver solder paste and the wire/flux - the paste wins hands down.
Link Posted: 10/12/2005 3:25:28 PM EDT
That was real cozy in that booth Harley!!!
Link Posted: 10/12/2005 3:28:27 PM EDT
I used a MAPP torch and it got hot enough... I used the fusion paste from Brownells and it has the flux plus the solder... Clean the parts good, apply the paste, thread it together, and heat until it gets to a cherry red... As the break is heated you will eventually start to see the silver solder flowing out of the joint... hold the temp a little and you are good to go.

It is likely going to mess up the finish so do the silver solder before you paint anything.... You will also need to wire brush things to clean them up after you are done.
Link Posted: 10/13/2005 3:49:11 PM EDT

thanks guys-since I don't want to have to refinish the rifle or barrel, any issues with soldering the brake to the FSB before mounting the FSB on the barrel?

Thanks agian.
Link Posted: 10/13/2005 4:09:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/13/2005 4:11:13 PM EDT by Quarterbore]

Originally Posted By ACDer:
thanks guys-since I don't want to have to refinish the rifle or barrel, any issues with soldering the brake to the FSB before mounting the FSB on the barrel?

Thanks agian.



Perhaps I didn't understand? Is your barrel threaded or do you have a threaded front sight assembly? What is the gun?

If you have a threaded front sight assembly is it a Romanian unit with LH 22mm threads (Like we use on SAR-2 and SAR-3 to add AK_74 breaks to?)? If that is the case you may not need to silver solder anything or at least that was the way the old Federal interpretion of the crime bill read as that is not a threaded barrel and the break is not a FH... My worry then would be is what break are you using as most 22mm breaks are designed for a 22cal bullet and if you shoot a 0.311 bullet out that hole it might be real ugly if you know what I mean!

If your barrel is threaded and you are threading the break onto these threads then you need to do as we described above...

Can you describe what you are trying to do in more detail?
Link Posted: 10/14/2005 3:16:01 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/14/2005 3:19:00 AM EDT by ACDer]
I have the threaded 22mm romanian FSB and threaded Brake, romak 2 rifle, 5.45mm (1996 import). I know the ATF opinion on 22mm brakes-that they need not be permanently attached as there is no flash-hider in 22mm that fits the FSB.

However, I'm being hypercareful as NY State is not necessarily bound by ATF opinions. So I'd rather solder or weld the brake on pemanently. Since I'm replacing the old, non-threaded FSB with the threaded FSB/brake combo, I'm now wondering if there's any problem soldering the brake to FSB before mounting both on the barrel.
Link Posted: 10/14/2005 3:34:03 AM EDT

Originally Posted By ACDer:
I have the threaded 22mm romanian FSB and threaded Brake, romak 2 rifle, 5.45mm (1996 import). I know the ATF opinion on 22mm brakes-that they need not be permanently attached as there is no flash-hider in 22mm that fits the FSB.

However, I'm being hypercareful as NY State is not necessarily bound by ATF opinions. So I'd rather solder or weld the brake on pemanently. Since I'm replacing the old, non-threaded FSB with the threaded FSB/brake combo, I'm now wondering if there's any problem soldering the brake to FSB before mounting both on the barrel.



Well sorry then... pretty much ignore what I said....

First remove the original sight block and get the new one on... then drill it as necessary and make sure you have everything lined up. Then dry fit the parts...

I would be woried about that front sight block if these are cast... They are expensive and cast parts don't always like that much heat. A small blind pin might be easier and safer as with these two small parts you can send them to anybody without shipping the entire gun or barrel.

Sorry for the confusion, I thought you had a threaded barrel above until things finally clicked... Personally, I wouldn't bother and if you look there was a letter from the BATFE about these units being crime bill OK but darn has it been a long time since I had seen a copy.
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