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Page AK-47 » AK Discussions
AK Sponsor: palmetto
Posted: 7/22/2013 4:24:47 PM EDT
Hi everybody,

I know there's a million threads about this out there, but I haven't quite found the answer to what I'm looking for. I contacted a gunsmith out here about getting the barrel on my SAR-1 threaded and was given an estimate around $120+. He said that you can't put a 14x1 LH thread on the rifle because there isn't enough meat on the barrel and it would have to be 24 RH. He also recommended replacing the FSB altogether and replacing it with one that has the threading attached. Is this true? I see that CNC Warrior has threading kits for 7.62 14x1 LH, so I would be temped to believe that said kit would work on my rifle.

Also; would I need to move the FSB back on the rifle if I were to use the CNC Warrior kit? If I do need to do this, what is the likelihood that I could -F- it up and end up with a canted FSB?

Apparently once upon a time there was a how to guide on AK barrel threading posted by Lxpony, but I couldn't find it. Anybody have a link to that or a similar article?
Link Posted: 7/22/2013 5:26:59 PM EDT
[#1]
I have used the kit from CNC to do it on a Maadi.
Turned out great.
Did it without removing the front sight block although it might have ben better if it was so that it could be threaded further back.
If You knock out the 2 pins they will go back in the same place and the front sight will be just as straight as it was before.
Link Posted: 7/22/2013 5:46:45 PM EDT
[#2]
Your smith is FOS. I've threaded 3 SAR-1s. As long as your barrel is .550+ you're all set. Also your FSB already has a spring loaded detent hole in it . Some say that SAR and MAK barrels were turned down but I've yet to see 1, they just werent threaded (that I've seen).

Knock out the forward most pin on your FSB with a straight punch (NOT A NAIL PUNCH!!, ask me how I know ). This pin can be knocked out from either side, it is not tapered contrary to what some say (like an AR pin). Thread the barrel using a thread alignment tool (TAT) and proper die. Use plenty of lube, I used transmission fluid which contains sulfur (better for cutting so I've been told).  Somebody here probably has 1 you can borrow or rent (I used to have 1 that I'd let you borrow but sold the set up). Thread the barrel till it touches the FSB, insert detent spring and pin and reinsert the FSB pin (the FSB pin is what holds the detent spring and pin in place).

Done.

Takes about 10 minutes start to finish.
Link Posted: 7/22/2013 7:18:59 PM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Your smith is FOS. I've threaded 3 SAR-1s. As long as your barrel is .550+ you're all set. Also your FSB already has a spring loaded detent hole in it . Some say that SAR and MAK barrels were turned down but I've yet to see 1, they just werent threaded (that I've seen).

Knock out the forward most pin on your FSB with a straight punch (NOT A NAIL PUNCH!!, ask me how I know ). This pin can be knocked out from either side, it is not tapered contrary to what some say (like an AR pin). Thread the barrel using a thread alignment tool (TAT) and proper die. Use plenty of lube, I used transmission fluid which contains sulfur (better for cutting so I've been told).  Somebody here probably has 1 you can borrow or rent (I used to have 1 that I'd let you borrow but sold the set up). Thread the barrel till it touches the FSB, insert detent spring and pin and reinsert the FSB pin (the FSB pin is what holds the detent spring and pin in place).

Done.

Takes about 10 minutes start to finish.
View Quote


Thank you for the informative post.  
Link Posted: 7/22/2013 7:44:41 PM EDT
[#4]
I've done about 5 SAR-1's I used to own and each one of them was threaded 14x1LH threads.  Put a caliper on the muzzle of your barrel and see what diameter it is.

M14X1LH Die for 0.551" to 0.571" o.d. barrels
Link Posted: 7/22/2013 7:53:39 PM EDT
[#5]
I've done 4 or 5 SAR1s.  Never had a problem with 14 mm thread.  Threading and installing the detnet should not take longer than an hour, shorter after you do it a time or two.
Link Posted: 7/22/2013 8:17:25 PM EDT
[#6]
I've seen barrels that came with the threads turned off, but I can't recall specifically which ones it was at this point.

Like they said though, as long as you have enough diameter left you can thread it.  If not, that limits your options without going SBR.
Link Posted: 7/22/2013 9:05:34 PM EDT
[#7]
You guys are awesome. My guess is that this guy just doesn't know any better, or worse he's more used to people that are easily separated from their money. Do threading tools end up on the EE often? $55 won't exactly break the bank, but it is a bit much to spend on something that I might not ever use again.
Link Posted: 7/22/2013 9:13:41 PM EDT
[#8]
As long as your barrel is .550+ you're all set. Also your FSB already has a spring loaded detent hole in it . Some say that SAR and MAK barrels were turned down but I've yet to see 1, they just werent threaded (that I've seen).
View Quote

I had a romak 3 that was turned down with a muzzlenut welded on which was had a smooth inner diameter.
The SAR-1 on the other hand was good to go. I bought a detent and spring from Kvar and the Die and boreguide from Midway and did it myself.
Link Posted: 7/22/2013 9:17:04 PM EDT
[#9]
I have the detent and spring already and I'm good to go. Just need to thread this baby.
Link Posted: 7/22/2013 9:49:13 PM EDT
[#10]
http://www.cncwarrior.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=22464
http://www.cncwarrior.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=22961
You'll need some cutting fluid, die stock, mallet and a punch to remove the front sight pin as part of the detent installation process.
If you are unsure how to do it go over to youtube and search for videos on AK barrel threading. Just make sure to measure your barrel diameter to make sure it wasn't one of the turned down barrels because when they turned them down they literally cut off the original 14x1 lh threads because of import restrictions.
Link Posted: 7/23/2013 2:30:27 AM EDT
[#11]
I don't see any machining around the barrel that would suggest that threading had been cut off, but I'll go out and pick up a caliper tomorrow to be sure. If anybody would happen to have the equipment that I require and would be willing to rent out to me, please let me know.

Link Posted: 7/23/2013 5:13:20 AM EDT
[#12]
Buy the threading kit for $55-60 and resell it for $40-45 when your done.  Only cost you $10-20 in the end.
Link Posted: 7/23/2013 7:28:44 AM EDT
[#13]
used the CNC kit
Link Posted: 7/23/2013 8:19:11 AM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Buy the threading kit for $55-60 and resell it for $40-45 when your done.  Only cost you $10-20 in the end.
View Quote



This.  I've bought several of the kits and then sold them on the EE when I was done with them.  Then I'd end up buying another SAR-1 or SA85M used from someone and have to thread it.

Someone will always be looking for a kit as rifles show up that need threading.
Link Posted: 7/23/2013 2:34:32 PM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
I've bought several of the kits and then sold them on the EE when I was done with them.  Then I'd end up buying another SAR-1 or SA85M used from someone and have to thread it.

Someone will always be looking for a kit as rifles show up that need threading.
View Quote


Well I think I'll get one and possibly hang on to it for a while. I've always wanted a SA85M after all.... We'll see.
Link Posted: 7/23/2013 6:15:53 PM EDT
[#16]
I bought one awhile ago and I will never part with it. Too many times I've had to chase threads for a buddy or for one of my projects. It's just good insurance IMO.
Link Posted: 7/24/2013 6:52:55 AM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I've seen barrels that came with the threads turned off, but I can't recall specifically which ones it was at this point.

Like they said though, as long as you have enough diameter left you can thread it.  If not, that limits your options without going SBR.
View Quote


I have one, pretty sure it's the late 2003 models with the turned down threads.  My muzzle is right at .470, so it can't be threaded for anything really.

My plan is to have the front sight base barrel journal extended to fit a 74 FSB and run with the 24mm muzzle attachments.
Link Posted: 7/25/2013 6:54:04 AM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Your smith is FOS. I've threaded 3 SAR-1s. As long as your barrel is .550+ you're all set. Also your FSB already has a spring loaded detent hole in it . Some say that SAR and MAK barrels were turned down but I've yet to see 1, they just werent threaded (that I've seen).

Knock out the forward most pin on your FSB with a straight punch (NOT A NAIL PUNCH!!, ask me how I know ). This pin can be knocked out from either side, it is not tapered contrary to what some say (like an AR pin). Thread the barrel using a thread alignment tool (TAT) and proper die. Use plenty of lube, I used transmission fluid which contains sulfur (better for cutting so I've been told).  Somebody here probably has 1 you can borrow or rent (I used to have 1 that I'd let you borrow but sold the set up). Thread the barrel till it touches the FSB, insert detent spring and pin and reinsert the FSB pin (the FSB pin is what holds the detent spring and pin in place).

Done.

Takes about 10 minutes start to finish.
View Quote

I can vouch for this guy.  This is my SAR-1, his hippie shoes, and a field next to the NH Hometown shoot
Link Posted: 7/25/2013 8:23:48 AM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I can vouch for this guy.  This is my SAR-1, his hippie shoes, and a field next to the NH Hometown shoot
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/wesmerc/DSC05814.jpg
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Your smith is FOS. I've threaded 3 SAR-1s. As long as your barrel is .550+ you're all set. Also your FSB already has a spring loaded detent hole in it . Some say that SAR and MAK barrels were turned down but I've yet to see 1, they just werent threaded (that I've seen).

Knock out the forward most pin on your FSB with a straight punch (NOT A NAIL PUNCH!!, ask me how I know ). This pin can be knocked out from either side, it is not tapered contrary to what some say (like an AR pin). Thread the barrel using a thread alignment tool (TAT) and proper die. Use plenty of lube, I used transmission fluid which contains sulfur (better for cutting so I've been told).  Somebody here probably has 1 you can borrow or rent (I used to have 1 that I'd let you borrow but sold the set up). Thread the barrel till it touches the FSB, insert detent spring and pin and reinsert the FSB pin (the FSB pin is what holds the detent spring and pin in place).

Done.

Takes about 10 minutes start to finish.

I can vouch for this guy.  This is my SAR-1, his hippie shoes, and a field next to the NH Hometown shoot
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/wesmerc/DSC05814.jpg


Who you callin a hippie?



I forgot about yours so that makes 4. Apparently that was a $120+ job. Between yours, fixing the Arsenal trigger and the 2 GLOCKS I went through I should have made some cash that day. Oh well....

That's a good pic for the OP though. You can see the front pin knocked out on the FSB and the straight punch I used. Also the thing just below the punch is the thread alignment tool. I was about 1/2 way through threading the barrel and had backed the TAT out the back of the die, you can remove it after you have a few threads cut..
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