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Posted: 8/25/2003 7:03:57 PM EDT
that's the question. I took my new sar2 out to the range today and experienced several misfires. The primers looked sufficiently dented but it didn't fire. After experiencing about 10 of these after firing 120rds or so, I put all the misfired ones in the mag and they all went off. So to me this is saying that the primers are too hard, the firing pin too short or the hammer spring is too week....
help! thanks, Chris ps, here's a pic  edited to fix pic, I'm tired |
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Posted: 8/25/2003 7:18:27 PM EDT
[#1]
Hmmm.... strange. What type of ammo were you using and? Also, is it the stock trigger? I experienced a similar problem after a modified my SAR1's trigger myself, but never with the slap-happy original config.
Here's the pic in a hotlink: users.ntplx.net/~cduarte/sar2.jpg |
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Posted: 8/25/2003 7:35:29 PM EDT
[#2]
the ammo is barnaul FMJ. the rifle is completely stock, including the trigger. BTW the trigger is pretty good for a bullet hose, it's long and kind of creepy but isn't too heavy. I did experience the infamous ak trigger slap once or twice, the rest of the time it was fine.
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Posted: 8/25/2003 7:43:26 PM EDT
[#3]
Well then that's just odd. Barnual is considered to be the best of the generic Russian 5.45, and with no mods to your gun I can't imagine why it would ever fail to fire on the first try. Maybe someone else will have some ideas, because I'm out already.
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Posted: 8/26/2003 3:24:37 AM EDT
[#4]
i will not blame the ammunition at this time.
you may simply have a firing pin passage that is fouled, gummed up or has some brass blown into it. i would recommend you remove the bolt and soak it in acetone...shaking it back and forth under the acetone. blow it out with compressed air. repeat. do you have the capability of measuring your firing pin maximum protrusion dimension? |
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Posted: 8/26/2003 3:45:30 AM EDT
[#5]
thanks for the tip, I'll get some acetone and clean the bolt, but what bothers me is that the firing pin seems pretty loose. I'll get out my trusty Starrett calipers and make an attempt to measure the protrusion, any idea what it should be? I don't have a depth mic so that's the best I can do. btw, how hard is it to disassemble and reassemble the bolt?
fyi, this is a brand new rifle, I just took it out of the box on saturday. |
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Posted: 8/26/2003 4:00:04 AM EDT
[#6]
I had the same problem with my Krink.
What was happeneing was the bolt was not going all the way forward, and when i pulled the trigger the bolt would unfree itself from whatever was snagging it and slide the rest of the way. I was getting weakly indented primers, and unfired rounds. I fixed it by pouring a ton of break free into the receiver and lubing the rifle heavy. Im hoping since this is a new rifle that it will break in and the problem will go away. The next time you go to the range, make sure the bolt is all the way forward on every round. |
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Posted: 8/26/2003 1:47:27 PM EDT
[#7]
ok, I just measured the firing ping protrusion and it measured as follows:
with pin all the forward .076" with back of pin flush with rear of bolt .067" the firing pin is loose in the bolt, is it long enough? I did soak it in acetone and hit it with compressed air and it appears to be clean. I probably won't be able to shoot it until friday. I just noticed that the back of the firing pin is peened over slightly, is this a problem? |
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Posted: 8/27/2003 6:09:11 AM EDT
[#8]
I had the same problem with my new Bulgy 74. As with EX, the problem turned out to be the bolt not going all the way into battery. How to tell if this is the case: Dry-fire the weapon a whole lot. You will come to know what it is "supposed" to sound like. If, when you get a dud during live firing, you hear an extra "cachink" when the hammer drops but the gun does not fire, that was the bolt being pushed into battery by the hammer.
My fix, unlike EX's, was to thow away the god@#$%^&*((()ed fu!!!!@#$%^&*ing bolt carrier buffer. Luck, SD |
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Posted: 8/27/2003 6:31:42 AM EDT
[#9]
Don't you dare tell me you ordered the gun from AIM! |
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Posted: 8/27/2003 9:28:14 AM EDT
[#10]
I'll tell you whatever I want  I bought the rifle from a local gunshop, I don't know where they got it from. I'm not really worried about it, it'll be easily fixed. |
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Posted: 8/27/2003 4:23:50 PM EDT
[#11]
i never heard the correct protrusion length for a 5.45, but the ar15 (per bushmaster gauge) is .028" minimum to .036" maximum.
if i read your measurements correctly (.076" minus .067"), you have only .009" showing above the bolt face with the pin fully extended. that doesn't sound like nearly enough! can you recheck your measurements? |
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Posted: 8/27/2003 4:48:32 PM EDT
[#12]
the depth from the rim of the bolt to the edge of the firing pin hole is .1145" The measurement from the rim of the bolt to the tip of the fully extended firing pin is .0470". Thus the protrusion is .0645". The other measurement I was talking about was the firing pin protrusion with the back of the firing ping flush with the back of the bolt. I guess that's meaningless.
BTW, after several hours soaking in acetone, the pin seems looser. I'll try it out on friday and see if it improves. Another observation is that the firing pin seems to be much lighter than an ar15/m16 firing pin. |
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Posted: 8/28/2003 3:44:53 AM EDT
[#13]
Thus the protrusion is .0645".
that's better! the dimension needed is from the bolt face (where the case rim/face seats against the bolt) over the extended firing pin tip (that contacts the primer). The other measurement I was talking about was the firing pin protrusion with the back of the firing ping flush with the back of the bolt. I guess that's meaningless. yes, meaningless to this discussion as long as sufficient firing pin length hangs out the rear of the bolt stem to enable a positive hammer contact/strike. BTW, after several hours soaking in acetone, the pin seems looser. I'll try it out on friday and see if it improves. Another observation is that the firing pin seems to be much lighter than an ar15/m16 firing pin. compressed air helps loosen and displace any crude that has accumulated in the firing pin passageway. the ak firing pin is smaller and lighter than the ar firing pin. inertia firing pins, by their nature, must be low in mass in order to minimize slam fires. |
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Posted: 8/29/2003 12:27:29 PM EDT
[#14]
I took the rifle to the range today and experienced misfires again, but not as many. I also had two blown primers, which is not fun. I called the shop I bought it at and they said it was most likely ammo, but they wouldn't do anything to fix it. They said to contact Century for any warranty work. I called century, and got an rma. Should I bother with this, or should I find a competent ak gunsmith to fix the rifle. Has anyone had any experience dealing with century? Did they make good on their product?
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Posted: 8/29/2003 1:17:11 PM EDT
[#15]
I have never had that problem with any 5.45 ammo, but have you tried another ammo batch just in case?
Have you checked the hammer for signs of deformation? A little bit is, ahem, normal for the Century trigger set. So it is a matter of degree. |
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Posted: 8/29/2003 3:05:01 PM EDT
[#16]
My guess is that your firing pin is fine and you are having fire control group problems. Century FCG parts are the crappiest there are. Do not sell the gun, do not take it to a gunsmith who will charge you lots of money just to change out parts that you could change out yourself. My advice is, spend the money to buy a Red Star Arms FCG, or, if you don't want to spend that kind of cash, a US made FCG from KVAR. They come with new springs I believe, if not you should order a new hammer spring as well.
I have had Century do warranty work before, it takes them months and they are bitchy about it. They did a good job but my G3 clone was out of my hands for nearly half a year. Consider sending it back to Century a last resort. |
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