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9/23/2020 3:47:02 PM
Posted: 10/14/2008 8:51:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/14/2008 10:03:31 PM EDT by pokey074]
Some of you may have read my earlier thread here:
www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=64&t=110266

Finally got a replacement rifle after waiting three months and it has the exact same problem!!!  So my question is, how important is it that the right receiver rail be spot welded down the full length?  On my Vector 7.62 it is tack welded in what looks to be four spots.  How difficult would this be to fix locally by someone who knows how to weld?
Link Posted: 10/14/2008 9:09:14 PM EDT
what do you mean the exact same problem? In the original thread, the only real problem seems to be a canted FSB.  Do you have that again?


side rails are spot welded. not welded the full length.
Link Posted: 10/14/2008 9:14:45 PM EDT
Pics please.
Link Posted: 10/14/2008 9:21:16 PM EDT
Right rail has 7 spot welds and left rail has 6 spot welds on NDS and Global Trades 47 receiver.

Link Posted: 10/14/2008 10:02:57 PM EDT
Exact same problem:  front half of right receiver rail can be moved up and down with finger pressure.  In other words, only the back half is spot welded, the front half is free to flex up and down.  The rifle is still at my dealer.  If I decide to pick it up tomorrow, I'll try to get pics.  "Full length" weld is my mistake.  I know the rails are only spot welded.  If it's no biggie, then I'll gladly keep the rifle - it really is nice looking.  Anyone with a -74 clone that can check your right receiver rail?
Link Posted: 10/14/2008 10:31:10 PM EDT
74 receiver has 2 spot welds over the dimple and 4 in the rear.



You can see the spot welds on this Tantal receiver which are identical on any 74 receiver.
The rail should not move up and down.
Link Posted: 10/15/2008 5:02:57 AM EDT
There are no spot welds over the dimple then.
Link Posted: 10/15/2008 7:23:05 AM EDT
id send it back and have them spot weld and refinish for you since doing it yourself, though not difficult, will ruin the finish.
Link Posted: 10/15/2008 7:30:21 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Fields_Overseer:
id send it back and have them spot weld and refinish


+1

if the welds are missing, thats a problem.
Link Posted: 10/15/2008 8:45:33 AM EDT
Uh, did you guys read my previous thread?  It took them three months to get me a replacement.  I don't really feel like waiting another three months.
Link Posted: 10/15/2008 9:04:44 AM EDT
uh, then spot weld and refinish.
It's going to cost quite a bit if you dont have the tools and cant do it yourself.
Here's a tutorial and the tool you need
www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2005/souptonuts3/index.asp

One option is to post in your hometown forum and see if someone nearby has a modified spot welder for AK building that they would let you use for your two spot welds.

Another option would be to drill through the side if the receiver, but not through the rail, and MIG weld.  Either way, the receiver is going to need to be refinished afterwards.


I would get the original manufacturer to make it right.  Three months isnt that long.
Link Posted: 10/15/2008 12:15:20 PM EDT
So how difficult would it be to find a welding shop that could do two spot welds?
Link Posted: 10/15/2008 1:05:28 PM EDT
the issue is finding one with a spot welder that will fit inside the receiver properly to make the welds.  I highly doubt any shops will modify their spot welder for this task.
Link Posted: 10/15/2008 3:53:07 PM EDT
I don't think it has to be spot welded, a mig welder might be able to it. They're perfect for sheet steel. I don't think it would be a that expensive for a local welder to fix it. I don't own a stamped AK so I can't see how difficult it is or how much of a bead can hold the rail without getting in the way of the bolt. A good welder shouldn't have a problem. Have it welded and send them the bill, Doubtful they'll pay it but it's worth a shot. Hope this helps?
Link Posted: 10/15/2008 4:25:30 PM EDT

Originally Posted By pokey074:
So how difficult would it be to find a welding shop that could do two spot welds?


There is possibility that the surfaces of the rail and receiver that contact each other are parkerized.
Surfaces to be joined by resistance welding have to be clean, not oxidized, parkerized or painted.

Return the rifle to the manufacturer.

Link Posted: 10/15/2008 4:58:17 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/15/2008 4:59:14 PM EDT by dntama]
Who made the receiver ? or was it made from a flat.
Link Posted: 10/15/2008 6:49:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/15/2008 6:50:35 PM EDT by pokey074]
Thanks for the suggestions.  I may end up having to return it.  Again.

Oh, and it was an AUSA receiver.

But still wondering, exactly how critical is it to have the front two spot welds done?  I know the bolt rides on these rails, but being in the bolt carrier, I wonder what could happen if I just leave it.
Link Posted: 10/15/2008 8:01:07 PM EDT
The dimple and magazine cut-out area is the weakest part of the receiver.
During fire the receiver flexes.
The  rail also acts as the reinforcement in that particular area.
Rail on 7.62  receiver is welded in 3 spots above the dimple due to the more powerful cartridge.
For riding or guiding the bolt, one weld or none would suffice.

Link Posted: 10/15/2008 10:02:43 PM EDT
I don't know for sure but if you leave it during fireing the rail would proly bend and lock up the bolt.
Link Posted: 10/16/2008 4:59:01 PM EDT
Manufacturer has been contacted and is supposed to be scheduling a pickup and issuing a refund.
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