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11/20/2019 5:07:11 PM
Posted: 10/22/2006 1:48:45 PM EST
Ok, it is my first build and first park try, I built a SS tank and tried the home brew and it worked fine on all the mags I did but the ak with the tapco bent flat has problems , the barrel and all other parts are fine but the tapco flat and revets are a lighter gray color, any way to fix this? I would assume the flat and rivets are a softer metal and that is why they are lighter . Is this why all of them get painted , I really like the park look . thanks
Link Posted: 10/22/2006 7:54:18 PM EST
Honestly,

I like to park and then hit it with Duracoat. That is the best combination in my book.
Link Posted: 10/23/2006 1:56:24 AM EST
So you have the same problem? do you paint the whole gun or just the receiver? what color goes best if you only paint the receiver? thanks for any help .
Link Posted: 10/23/2006 4:31:31 AM EST
Is there any sort of galvanizing or corrosion treatment on the flat?
Link Posted: 10/23/2006 4:58:27 AM EST

Originally Posted By LoginName:
Is there any sort of galvanizing or corrosion treatment on the flat?



AFAIK, tapco and akb only swipe the flats with oil before packaging.
Link Posted: 10/23/2006 5:03:38 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/23/2006 5:05:38 AM EST by LonghunterCO]
Most tapco flats are saturated in oil. If you skimped on the degreasing stage this could cause the flat to not take as well. We have had, at the CO build parties, some guys bead blast vs sand blast as a pre-park prep. Those receivers seen to come out more gray (not enough surface area for the park to bite?). All that said, and I know that this will not be of much comfort, with everything done right, some just come out more gray that others. To assure a uniform finish you have to go with a over spray of, molly, dura, or paint.

This is my latest one it is a couple shaded lighter and the one before it.
Link Posted: 10/23/2006 8:00:22 AM EST
height=8
Originally Posted By LonghunterCO:
Most tapco flats are saturated in oil. If you skimped on the degreasing stage this could cause the flat to not take as well. We have had, at the CO build parties, some guys bead blast vs sand blast as a pre-park prep. Those receivers seen to come out more gray (not enough surface area for the park to bite?). All that said, and I know that this will not be of much comfort, with everything done right, some just come out more gray that others. To assure a uniform finish you have to go with a over spray of, molly, dura, or paint.

This is my latest one it is a couple shaded lighter and the one before it.
i99.photobucket.com/albums/l318/Longhunter-CO/AIMS47finished.jpg



Thats how mine looks, I called tapco today and they said I was the first one ever called, yea right!! . I used brake clean then the auto orange degreaser/hot water and then just plain hot water then in the park tank. let me know if you have a tapco flat that came out like the rest of the gun and how you did it . thanks a bunch
Link Posted: 10/23/2006 9:53:37 AM EST

Originally Posted By bigbird1:

Originally Posted By LonghunterCO:
Most tapco flats are saturated in oil. If you skimped on the degreasing stage this could cause the flat to not take as well. We have had, at the CO build parties, some guys bead blast vs sand blast as a pre-park prep. Those receivers seen to come out more gray (not enough surface area for the park to bite?). All that said, and I know that this will not be of much comfort, with everything done right, some just come out more gray that others. To assure a uniform finish you have to go with a over spray of, molly, dura, or paint.

This is my latest one it is a couple shaded lighter and the one before it.
i99.photobucket.com/albums/l318/Longhunter-CO/AIMS47finished.jpg



Thats how mine looks, I called tapco today and they said I was the first one ever called, yea right!! . I used brake clean then the auto orange degreaser/hot water and then just plain hot water then in the park tank. let me know if you have a tapco flat that came out like the rest of the gun and how you did it . thanks a bunch



Were these very light but done in mang. solution? If so, I have the same problem to the extent that I threw out my homebrew solution because I thought I messed up. They originally came out dark, but the dark wipes off to leave a light grey in my case.
Link Posted: 10/23/2006 12:16:54 PM EST
height=8
Originally Posted By Morning_Wood:


Were these very light but done in mang. solution? If so, I have the same problem to the extent that I threw out my homebrew solution because I thought I messed up. They originally came out dark, but the dark wipes off to leave a light grey in my case.


I blasted the complete gun, strange everyting came out good but the receiver, with the home brew. it was also in the mag solution . I used two gal dist. water and seven shot cups full of the acid, MSD sheet says it is 40% . also used two and half shot cups of the black mang. powder. all the mags look great also the rest of parts are good ,
I still think it is the metal tapco used?
Link Posted: 10/23/2006 12:40:00 PM EST
The metal receiver is going to be much softer than the metal from the parts kit. While I have no idea what kind of metal the parts kit is made out of, I highly doubt its a high-carbon steel.
Link Posted: 10/23/2006 2:25:45 PM EST
This is a great forum, so many people reply, and even pictures, thanks , all you guys rock
Link Posted: 10/23/2006 2:51:46 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/23/2006 3:01:13 PM EST by LonghunterCO]

Originally Posted By bigbird1:
Thats how mine looks, I called tapco today and they said I was the first one ever called, yea right!! . I used brake clean then the auto orange degreaser/hot water and then just plain hot water then in the park tank. let me know if you have a tapco flat that came out like the rest of the gun and how you did it . thanks a bunch


Did you sand blast the weapon prior to parking?


Same procedure, as posted above with sand blasting.
Link Posted: 10/23/2006 3:08:15 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/23/2006 3:52:28 PM EST by bigbird1]
yes , just like you did it, in a blast cabinet , down to bare metal.
It almost looks like bare metal but it is light gray parked.
Link Posted: 10/23/2006 3:54:15 PM EST
other side
Link Posted: 10/23/2006 4:12:29 PM EST
I think yours looks good. If you are not happy with the final product I would go Norells semi-black.
Link Posted: 10/23/2006 4:34:04 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/23/2006 4:36:26 PM EST by bigbird1]

Originally Posted By LonghunterCO:
I think yours looks good. If you are not happy with the final product I would go Norells semi-black.


you're right, I should just shoot it and enjoy. oh wait , I still have to sign the papers on my mortgage, before I can pick up more ammo When will it end? was at Knob Creek Sat and it was up to 170.00 a case . Thanks guys for the help
Link Posted: 10/23/2006 4:58:01 PM EST

Originally Posted By bigbird1:

Originally Posted By LonghunterCO:
I think yours looks good. If you are not happy with the final product I would go Norells semi-black.


you're right, I should just shoot it and enjoy. oh wait , I still have to sign the papers on my mortgage, before I can pick up more ammo When will it end? was at Knob Creek Sat and it was up to 170.00 a case . Thanks guys for the help




Yours turned out way darker than mine ever did. But I hit mine with gunkote so all is well in the end.
Link Posted: 10/25/2006 3:49:30 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/25/2006 3:51:00 AM EST by Hammer in PA]
The best way to achive the overall black color is to bead blast, then rinse in water(to remove any bead material), then imerse the part in pre-black until the depth of black you want is achived (usually 1 to 3 minutes), then gently rinse with water this removes any loose pre-black solution), do not touch the part after the pre-black has been applied as it will wipe off easily. Then into the phosphate tank for about twenty minutes.

The reason for the difference in color is due to metal content. If all the metal you were phosphating was the same, the color would be the same. That is why you had one color for the barrel and another for the receiver. The pre-black mentioned above makes all the parts the same black color and is available from Brownell's as is the phosphate solution.

I have used it many times and have enjoyed excellent results.
Link Posted: 10/25/2006 2:33:56 PM EST

Originally Posted By Hammer in PA:
The best way to achive the overall black color is to bead blast, then rinse in water(to remove any bead material), then imerse the part in pre-black until the depth of black you want is achived (usually 1 to 3 minutes), then gently rinse with water this removes any loose pre-black solution), do not touch the part after the pre-black has been applied as it will wipe off easily. Then into the phosphate tank for about twenty minutes.

The reason for the difference in color is due to metal content. If all the metal you were phosphating was the same, the color would be the same. That is why you had one color for the barrel and another for the receiver. The pre-black mentioned above makes all the parts the same black color and is available from Brownell's as is the phosphate solution.

I have used it many times and have enjoyed excellent results.




OK , how does that work with just wanting to make the receiver darker. would I park the whole barrel and receiver and then blast just the receiver and then darken it and repark the entire thing. the barrel won't get any darker once it is done the first time. thanks for the informative reply hammer and everyone else, I love this hobby
Link Posted: 10/27/2006 5:11:24 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/27/2006 5:22:10 AM EST by Hammer in PA]
There are two (2) methods for finishing.

1. De-grease, blast the part to be phosphated, rinse in water, imerse in the pre-black, rise, imerse in phosphate solution (20 imn.), them imerse in boiling water.. For just the receiver I would remove it from the barrel assembly, de-grease. blast, pre-black, phosphate, then imerse in boiling water. After that I would re-install the barrel assembly being very careful not to damage the finish on the receiver.

Below is a shotgun that I did just parts using the pre-black. The gray receiver and barrel assembly were just phosphated (no pre-black).



2. De-grease, blast the entire barreled receiver assembly, rinse in water, imerse the barreled receiver in pre-black, rinse in water, imerse in the phospahte solution (20 min), rinse in boiling water. Do this to each metal part of the rifle (if you wish) so that all parts are the same finish.

Below is an Enfield that had most of the finish worn off (the rifling was beautiful), so I used method #2 and pre-blacked the complete rifle. Then added a new stock....it's like you have a new rifle.





As a warning, phosphate may weaken springs and cause them to break if phosphated. I routinely remove all springs prior to blasting and phosphating. The big problem is the AK's mag catch spring. I haven't phosphated an AK mag catch spring to see if this is true. Others have accomplished phosphating without any problems to the spring. I just added this to let you know that it can happen (it came with the phosphate instuctions I use from a long time ago).
Link Posted: 10/27/2006 5:09:32 PM EST
WOW , both guns look really good. It looks like you know what you are doing. I will get some pre-black on the way, it there any cheaper places to get it . looks like it is about 50.00 sound right? thanks
Link Posted: 10/27/2006 9:16:05 PM EST
I just looked on the Brownell's website and the price is $50.00...WOW!!! When I bought mine it was only $15-$20, but then it was a smaller bottle. I bet that quart bottle will make many gallons of pre-black solution.

I guess I'll have to pay that price once my bottles are empty. It is expensive but the results I've gotten are well worth it if your looking for a nice even black color.

As Brownell's says, you use it with "ZINC" phosphate (not manganese). I don't know what would happen if you used it with the manganese phosphate.
Link Posted: 10/28/2006 2:19:54 AM EST

Originally Posted By Hammer in PA:
I just looked on the Brownell's website and the price is $50.00...WOW!!! When I bought mine it was only $15-$20, but then it was a smaller bottle. I bet that quart bottle will make many gallons of pre-black solution.

I guess I'll have to pay that price once my bottles are empty. It is expensive but the results I've gotten are well worth it if your looking for a nice even black color.

As Brownell's says, you use it with "ZINC" phosphate (not manganese). I don't know what would happen if you used it with the manganese phosphate.



have you been using zinc, I have only used maganese type.
Link Posted: 10/29/2006 3:31:17 AM EST
Yes, I use the "zinc" (the solution is a greenish color). It gives a nice gray color if you don't use the pre-black. The manganese will give a darker gray, sometimes almost a charcoal gray, but different metals will be different colors of that charcoal gray. That's why I started using the pre-black with zinc, I didn't like the different shades of charcoal when using the manganese.
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