Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login

Posted: 8/12/2007 9:32:52 PM EDT
Hi, I'm in the process of moving & had to sell my press (before I could get all my kits together). I'm considering the threaded rod technique for my current build but can't visualize where to secure the rod on the trunnion end (back of the receiver, trunnion?).

Anyone in the Portland/Vancouver area that can assist me w/the proper tools & coaching? TIA - Scott
Link Posted: 8/13/2007 5:10:18 AM EDT
Just put the bolt carrier in (without the bolt), and use it for that purpouse (with some washers of cource).
Link Posted: 8/13/2007 6:42:40 AM EDT
I use a piece of 1/4 inch allthread rod and two threaded rod connectors (long nuts), a slant brake with the slant cut off to make a muzzle nut, a scrap bolt carrier with the tab ground off the rear face, and a special "washer" I made from a piece of metal. Oh, and a few pennies between the muzzle and the nut. Just lube the trunnion and the barrel, set it up like in the pics and tighten the nuts. Careful that you don't contact the rear of your extractor. Put a washer between your muzzle end rod connector and your pennies or tightening the nut warps the pennies making them hard to get back off the rod. You can use your bolt carrier but you would have to notch your special washer to clear the tab.


Link Posted: 8/14/2007 8:40:05 AM EDT
I use the bolt carrier-minus the bolt. A couple of oversize nuts to give clearance for the safety tang that hangs over the back of the carrier.
I have barrelled 5 romy`s with this method and I have found that if you dress the barrell shank with emory cloth to remove any burrs,use wheel bearing grease with moly,and freeze the barrel in your freezer for about 3 hours prior to assembly the barrels go in with little drama.
One other thing that I have discovered is that if you tighten the bolts and the barrel stops going in,you can tap the front of the allthread(muzzle end) on a concrete slab and the barrel will go in another fraction of an inch allowing you to continue tightening without having to put unneccessary torque on the assembly.
I start tightening the nuts and continue tigtening as long as progress is being made,anytime the barrell stops sliding in I put a bit of torque on the nuts and tap the front of the assembly on the slab,continue tightening and tapping if neccessary until I`m almost at the "moment of truth" where the barrel pin hole is almost lined up.
When I`m within 1/16" of the hole lining up I tighten the bolts VERY slightly and tap VERY gently until the hole is lined up.
Hope this helps.....Bossman
Link Posted: 8/14/2007 10:14:57 AM EDT

Originally Posted By KK66:
Just put the bolt carrier in (without the bolt), and use it for that purpouse (with some washers of cource).


If you use anti-seize lube on the barrel it slides right in.

there are a few "critical" points using this method:

-just before the rear sight base comes in contact with the front trunnion, make sure everything is lined up

-just befor the piston comes in contact with the gas block, there is slop in the piston, just make sure the piston goes in the block and doesn't bind up.

I can't remember which occurs first, so be on your toes and go slowly.
Link Posted: 8/14/2007 7:16:26 PM EDT
YEP, what he said ^^^^^^^
Top Top