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Posted: 6/11/2006 12:52:12 PM EDT
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Thanks for all of your help guys. Still need to install US trigger group, but here it is anyway:   The finish is duplicolor 1500 degree engine paint, baked for 2 hours at 350 degrees. |
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Very nice! Your first build looks better than my first! You may know all this already, but here it goes anyways... If you use a drop in g2 FCG then it's easy to do a nice trigger job on it. All of my g2s had a fairly light, but creepy pull with no discernable place that it breaks. The trigger hook (or hooks with a double hook trigger) would let go before the disconnector would touch the back of the hammer. I just kept filing (and using my belt sander in the begining) the bottom of the pad on the disconnector where it bottoms out in the trigger bottom until the disconnector just touches the hammer before the trigger lets go of the hammer. When you pull through the first stage it will be light until the disconnector touches the back of the hammer. Then you are pulling the trigger against the force of the trigger return/hammer spring AND the additional resistance of the disconnector spring. The idea is to have any movement of the trigger past the first point of additional resistance (2nd stage) make the hammer drop. When you start take a notice of how much space you have between the disconnector and the hammer right before the hammer falls. Then after a little filing or grinding with a belt sander, etc put it back in and check that distance again. This will give you an idea of how much your grinding or filing has brought the disconnector in and how much more you have to take off. Just take it slow, especially when you get close to having it perfect. I take some fine sandpaper and polish the trigger bottom where the bottom of the disconnector hits the trigger before I start on the disconnector. This ensures that the finish doesn't wear off there which could possibly let the disconnector come a bit more forward than it did when you did your grinding/filing. I also take the fine sandpaper and polish the metal to metal contact points between the hook(s) on the trigger and the hammer. This removes the creep in the first stage. Once everything is perfect I lube the contact surfaces between the hammer and trigger hook(s). A nice trigger helps make tighter groups and by God it makes me happy. 
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Thanks guys, and thanks for the trigger info. Good stuff, will do. I guess I should have mentioned a little more details: Tools used: Pulley remover (pull barrel) Threaded rod (install barrel) spot welder propane torch Flat bending jig Big hammer 18" bolt cutters (barely worked, next time will use 24" for an underfolder) Hand drill Bench vise This build was a b@#$!. I bent the rails too low on this receiver, and then bent them back out with vice grips and re-bent them higher. Then I driled holes to mig weld the rails, and failed. So I welded up the holes and then spot welded. This was a standard flat from ak-parts.com so I had to drilled the underfolder holes by hand with a hand drill and a dremel. Let me tell you THAT took a long time with a dremel  . Then I bent one of the lower rails when i was trying to install the barrel. Bent it back ok. Sanded the crap out of it to remove mistake marks. Sanded everything with 400 grit and denatured alcohol to remove the remaining ink finish. Blued the bolt carrier. May try polishing it later but I think I like it blued. I was going to make this a jnk receiver but who knew it would come out so nice. I'm pretty happy with it. It looks darn good for a first build and the rediculous number of mistakes I made. Amazingly there is no cant of the sites or anything else. She's a beauty. |
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