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10/20/2017 1:01:18 AM
9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 9/25/2005 11:42:52 AM EDT
If you purchase a kit that has matching parts, like a Yugo M92 for example. And you know the headspace is correct. Then you grind off the front rivets to remove the piece of the old receiver, and drill out the old rivets. At this point would it be acceptable to pound or press in the rivets against the barrel to assemble the lower? This don't sound like it would be advisable.. Builders please chime in with your advice. I don’t think this would be smart.
Link Posted: 9/25/2005 1:33:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/25/2005 1:33:52 PM EDT by Lakeguy]
I remember reading somewhere in this forum that bucking the 2 rivets with the barrel is a very bad idea. Makes sense to me. From what I have gathered you basically have to press the barrel out first. I am in the process of two builds right now. But I am going to do the buttonhead screw assembly method.
Link Posted: 9/25/2005 6:39:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/25/2005 6:44:25 PM EDT by Morning_Wood]
I don't think they will get tight enough, or at all bucking off the barrel. Barrel should come off. BTW just because you have a matching parts kit has nothing to do with this. It also does not mean headspace is correct. Granted, it probably is but a no-go guage is cheap insurance. I bought one and i'm the cheapest guy I know
Link Posted: 9/25/2005 9:46:31 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/26/2005 12:16:43 AM EDT
Hi Guys,

I'm a fellow Newbie and I have spent a LOT of time trying to figure out a way to rivet the 1st two trunion holes without removing the barrel.

It can't be done...Not CORRECTLY anyway. I am a lazy bastard sometimes and wwould far rather try and find a shortcut to a solution whenever I can. I looked...I grinded...I drilled...and then I looked some more. In the end, I yanked the barrel. I thought about drilling into the barrel just a little and using slightly longer rivets to secure the receiver (using the barrel as a bucking bar) and while this would work, it's still half assed. The AK barrel is THICK and it would take an serious mistake to overdrill the trunion holes. It can take a LITTLE drilling into it. But no drilling is better than ANY drilling.
Link Posted: 9/26/2005 2:35:56 AM EDT
just remove the barrel
even with just basic tools you can still do it in 10-15 min

everyone seems to think its less work if you dont remove the barrel
that just isnt true you have to lineup the drill perfect to drill out the old rivets
that alone takes as much if not more time then removing the barrel
if the barrel is out you only have to layout the holes in 1 side of your rec (left) then you can drill strait threw to the right
if the barrel is there you have to layout the right side also wich is a total bitch (theres nothan to stick tape to or measure from)

just my .02
Link Posted: 9/26/2005 5:31:38 AM EDT
Link Posted: 9/26/2005 6:21:01 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Gloftoe:

Originally Posted By socandyman:
just remove the barrel
even with just basic tools you can still do it in 10-15 min

everyone seems to think its less work if you dont remove the barrel
that just isnt true you have to lineup the drill perfect to drill out the old rivets
that alone takes as much if not more time then removing the barrel
if the barrel is out you only have to layout the holes in 1 side of your rec (left) then you can drill strait threw to the right
if the barrel is there you have to layout the right side also wich is a total bitch (theres nothan to stick tape to or measure from)

just my .02


How can you remove and install the barrel without a press? Then what about headspacing?



Removal: Pulley puller, a generic puller, hammer and punch
Install: Steel I-bar, all thread, freezer method, a hammer

The hardest part is thinking about doing it. If you've ever worked on a car or bike and pressed out or put in bearings or seals, it's the same concept. It's really not hard to get the barrel in and out. Headspacing is the same with every method--line up the barrel pin groove with the hole and check headspace. It should be spot-on. Then put the barrel pin back in.
Link Posted: 9/26/2005 8:04:44 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/26/2005 8:13:14 AM EDT by Morning_Wood]
I even pull the barrels on any screw builds I do. I don't have a press and don't need one. The pin can be knocked out with a hammer and punch. The barrel can be knocked out with a heavy hammer and properly sized bolt/coins. It is not that hard unless you let it overwhelm you into thinking you cant do it. Get a friend who isn't a goof-off and you can get it done in just a few minutes.

You don't have to spend big money to do this. That is the point isn't it? for me it is. Buy a 3 or 4 pound hammer, a punch sized almost as big as the pin diameter, a punch that will fit through the hole. Hole is .277 if memory serves. An open end wrench to fit RSB to adjust barrel position on re-install, some axle grease, anti sieze, or case resize lube to lube trunnion, a drill press while not a necessity, is very handy drilling trunnion holes, some drill bits. A dremel is handy, few other odds and ends, that's about it.
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 6:55:40 AM EDT
MW..

You knock the barrel out with a hammer? Geez.... Do you like freeze the barrel/trunion assy then torch the trunion THEN knock the barrel out, or just wail at the barrel cold?
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 7:42:09 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Atreides:
MW..

You knock the barrel out with a hammer? Geez.... Do you like freeze the barrel/trunion assy then torch the trunion THEN knock the barrel out, or just wail at the barrel cold?




Kroil and a $24 pulley puller from (#25190) Autozone is all you need.
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 8:10:19 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Lakeguy:
I remember reading somewhere in this forum that bucking the 2 rivets with the barrel is a very bad idea. Makes sense to me. From what I have gathered you basically have to press the barrel out first. I am in the process of two builds right now. But I am going to do the buttonhead screw assembly method.



I watched the AGI video on building AK's. They removed the barrel to knock out the rivets, installed the two rear rivets the normal way, then reinstalled the barrel and used it as a bucking bar for the front two rivets.

The rivets are soft enough that I can't believe they would hurt the barrel, my only concern would be how well they flattened/mushroomed on the inside. It would be interesting to rivet a front trunion this way, then remove the barrel and see just how well the riveting went.
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 11:26:56 AM EDT
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 11:43:53 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/27/2005 11:45:10 AM EDT by Spiff]
These part #'s are for generic pullers: 27011 and 27078. On Autozones web site.
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 1:11:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/27/2005 1:12:25 PM EDT by Lakeguy]
I pushed one barrel out today @ work on the 50 ton press. Piece of cake there.. When I got home I did my other parts kit barrel with a hammer and vice. Also relatively easy to do. I used a couple nickels and a 12" 3/8 extension. You can definately make due with a hammer and vice if you dont have a press or puller
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 1:16:19 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 1:52:44 PM EDT
This one reached all the rivets on my front trunion. I think it might be easier with a 24 inch pair.
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