I am looking at getting a die set to reload for a magazine fed 308 AR10 for precision shooting. I will be using once fired brass from the same gun that I’m loading for. I want to be able to load Tipped Match grade bullets.

I’m not interested in crimping at all.

Any recommendations us are appreciated.

Midway has RCBS Dies on sale. Hard to go wrong with RCBS.

I support this statement

Forster dies.  Lee FCD.  Do it.

I have standard $30 RCBS dies that produce sub moa ammo in 308. Hard to go wrong there

However I also like to load different bullet weights and types, which for that you might consider a micrometer seating die to easily adjust seating depth without tinkering with your die.

You may end up with a cheaper plinking bullet, an expensive precision bullet, and a hunting bullet for example. The physical shape of each may be different, and a single setup of your die may not work best for each bullet. The micrometer let's you adjust accordingly for each bullet.

Might not be an issue for you, maybe it is

.308 brass varies widely and cannot be mixed when loading.

Military surplus 7.62x51mm requires a 2.0 grain reduction in powder charges because of reduced internal capacity.

I would suggest standard Match King bullets over the tipped variety in an auto loader.

Forster and Redding make the best seating dies. I never crimp, instead I make sure I have exactly .003" of neck tension on my resized brass.

You can adjust neck tension by polishing expander balls to achieve your desired end result. They are inexpensive and easily modified.

Varget
VihtaVuori N150
RE-15
IMR-4895
H4895
IMR-4064
203-B

Are all top performers in .308.

RCBS makes great dies and has great customer service.  I had great results with 4064, Varget and RL-15, with the last two being the best of all the powders that I tried.

I've used Pacific (Hornady), Lee and RCBS dies to load for my M1A, the FAL and the M14S.  No issues with any of them.

The last few years I've used the RCBS X dies.  Supposed to improve case life/number of loadings by not causing the case to "grow" during resizing.

No crimp is needed.

I am looking at a Redding Premium 2 piece die set # RED-66155

You are right about other loads but main goal is the accuracy stuff.

Can you tell me your thoughts on this die set as one is a full length sizing die while the other is a micrometer seating die.

It’s 92.08$ on Amazon I believe. Thanks ahead.

Hornady 2018 catalogue, page 106 >>>

How much reloading have you done for bottleneck cases?

Will these be your first .308, or your first bottleneck rifle reloads in general?

Do you have case gages or experience with getting your shoulder datum length for headspace?

To minimize the brass wear on one hand, and balance with semi-auto function reliability on the other hand... it would be good to get some practical experience under the guidance of a mentor if these are your first in general.

If you have some experience and are just looking for recommendations on dies with crimp versus no crimp, I can't think of a seater die that would be a problem. Every one of them is capable of crimping or not crimping, just depending on adjustment choices. However...

Higher performance seaters usually have spring loaded sliding guides that help with in-line seating that reduces runout. The higher end seaters from brands like Redding and Forster come to mind.

Many designs will also offer micrometer adjustments for a higher price as well. Very simple designs don't have the moving guides or micrometers and are capable of decent ammo.

So your real choice is if you desire a fancy seater, not really having much to do with crimping or no crimping.

The shape of the seater shouldn't be a problem with the ogive when we are into higher end seaters. None of them will touch the tips of polymer tipped bullet designs or even OTM designs.

Sizing dies are another whole discussion. Basic dies versus bushing dies is just a starting point.

There are even collet sizing dies and body only dies, as well as tighter "small base" die options for minimum body diameter when semi-autos get picky.

You asked specifically about starting out in .308 and crimping, did you also consider the sizing die issues?

I have in last year or so started reloading so I guess I’m still green.

I’ve reloaded for my 8.5” 300 Blackout and for my 5.56 Centurion MK12 clone.

A lot of trial and error but eventually worked up several great loads for both rifles.

I’ve done a lot of research and using this forum for advice and support.

I only have Lee ultimate die set for both caliber listed above. Case gauge for both and a Synclair case trimmer.

I learned not to crimp on either caliber above.

I’m using a Lee Classic press. Very simple and budget friendly for me at least.

The brass in using if from a case of 500 Federal Gold  Sierra MK 168gr. The case is stamped FC.

I only have one 308 AR so I’m reloading for the same rifle it was originally fired in.

Just an FYI -  see THIS THREAD for an interesting discussion re: Federal 308 brass.  Start reading at post #12 where the OP says "Thanks everyone. I'm using once fired Federal brass btw."

OP, the type and brand of dies you have for 300 BO and 5.56 would be okay for .308 too if that is what you were wondering.

The TMK bullets don't act any different in the dies than an OTM or MatchKing bullet would.

Occasionally a simple seater has a plug that needs to be changed to accommodate the bullets you like, but most rifle seaters are going to be okay with TMK bullets.

If you wanted the next level up, consider the Redding or Forster seater with the micrometer adjustment and that sliding guide I mentioned earlier. They will improve your runout and they make hitting the seating depth easier.

https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/395095/forster-ultra-micrometer-seater-die

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/200390/redding-competition-seater-die

And just like the above Hornady dies, most of these are available in complete sets as well as individual dies.

OP, most any quality set of dies will do you, but consider the better dies as far as for your precision stuff...Even though I have a normal set of RCBS dies for this caliber I  still use 5 dies for my precision loads... Don't have to but I find it is easier to concentrate on separating each step to one single operation..So here are the 5 dies I use for my precision loads...

Attached File


From the left to the right..
1) RCBS HD universal de-primer die
2) Redding competition shoulder bump die
3) Redding competition bushing neck die
4) Sinclair mandrel die
5) Forrester Competition Seating die

So my process is I de-prime brass,  anneal, then tumble in soap and SS pins, then I bump the shoulders back, then I size the necks down to .306", then I trim case length, then I anneal again and then they go thru a tumbler with corncob and nu-finish..last they go over the mandrel to finalize the neck  and then prime..once primed they are charged with powder and bullets seated, then over a concentricity gauge and ready to shoot...

I ended up ordering thi from Amazon.
“.Redding Premium Series 2-Die Set 308 Winchester.”

For starters I wanna try to use up a box ?? of General Dynamics 147gr bullets I already have.

As far as the FC brass having issues with primer pockets and primers not seating tight goes....is it possible to just clean the pockets without deforming them in the process so the new primer will have a tight press in fit?

I want to try to use what I have on hand for beginning. I have the FC brass once fired from same gun I’m reloading for. ( POF Revolution).
I have 8lbs of TAC and 1 pound of Varget.

Any recommendations on which powder is best and any advice on load data for the above? I will start low and work up.

My "least common denominator" 308 load is:
150 grain SMK
45.7 grains of Varget
Federal "FC 308 WIN" cases trimmed to 2.005"
- (neck OD before seating = 0.335" to 0.336" / Neck OD after seating = 0.3375")
Federal GM210M primers
COAL = 2.79x"
MV = 2,766 out of my R700, 20" bbl, 1:12 twist and 2,794 out of my B-14, 20' bbl, 1:10 twist

Reloder15 is my preferred powder, but it's been hard to find locally.

Varget is a fan favorite

Some of the IMR powders get good reviews too. I think it's the 4064? I dunno I can't help all their numbers straight

Well as I started decapping my cases I have I’ve noticed that on the neck it’s two grooves I’m assuming is from the lugs. The scratches are deep enough that you can catch a fingernail on them.

Now that I’m looking for brass is there a better choice of headstamp? I have had great success with LC on my 223 & 300 Blackout loads but I am not sure what the best option is for 308 win.

I know this is now off topic and should be another read on this and I do apologize ahead.

GFL headstamp on some others cases I have access to.... any good and also is it a crimped primer? Thanks

these following setups will produce cloverleafs @ 100 yards

ranges tested in Illinois and Kentucky in varying temps and climates and weather

i have remington model 700 5-R 26" barrel 11.25" twist pre buyout.

i use rcbs X dies for 308

i use IMR-4895

CCI-large rifle primers

178 grain hornady amax bullets

remington peters brass - 41.1 grains

OFV-75 brass - 37.4 grains

Lithuanian GGG Brass - 39.0 grains

Ive used Lee's die for years , loaded a boat load for 308 for AR10, M1A , HK91,
Springfield Sar and a Cemete ..
fav load for my CMMG 308
42.0 IMR 4064 178 Amax LC cases at 2810 aol .

TS2

OP - I typically shoot Winchester brass in my 308.  They are good quality and reasonably priced.

GFL brass is Fiocchi.  I've loaded their 223 brass without issues.

OP, here's a decent source for LC cases. I've ordered and processed these for precision rounds to see how well an AR Def10 could shoot. The brass was in good shape and was able to process all with no cases needing to be culled out. Most had the same head stamp too.

Some tools you'll want to prep these for precision loading are:

RCBS 90387 TM Military Crimp Remover
RCBS #: 90378 pocket pocket uniformer
K&M Professional Flash Hole Uniformer Standard 0.080"

Seems like you already selected your die set.

I think just about any of the dies will give you what you’re looking for.  It's more about how well you set them up.  Spend some time learning how to do it properly and you'll be happy with the results.  Don’t depend on the dies to do all of the work for you.  Good luck.