This is my second almost identical build. The difference is that this build has the JP barrel and heat sink that beds it in the hand guard. The hand guard is a Noveske that I cut down to clear the adjustable gas block. I used it because it was a super tight fit that resulted in a solid bed for the barrel.
1. JP Rifles .223/5.56 Wylde 18" 1/8 twist Super Match barrel with blended compensator and heat sink bed
2. JP Rifles BCG with barrel matched titanium bolt
3. JP Rifles H encapsulated buffer
4. Rifle length buffer tube with JP Rifles spacer
5. Magpul PRS Gen 3 adjustable stock
6. Anderson Arms lower
7. VLTOR MUR upper
8. Noveske Gunfighter charging handle
9. Noveske Hand Guard
10. Elfman 3G match trigger set at 2.1 lbs pull
11. Hogue grip.
12. Atlas Bipod
13. Magpul Mono Pod
14. Schmidt & Bender 3.5x25 PMII MRAD Optics
15. Era-Tac 20 MOA 34mm 1.46" high optics Mount
16. JP Rifles 2 piece adjustable with detent gas block

I'll be taking it out to the range in the next couple of days and will post targets. If the bedding works like I think it will then it should shoot well. If not.. well, if at first you don't succeed, try, try again.

Now that's a looker! 18" Wylde barrels with 1/8 twist seem to be the sweet spot these days. What kind of ammo do you plan on shooting to test accuracy? 77gr?

In for results.

I'll run some cheap stuff through it just to get it broke in and then give it a good cleaning and run Hornady Black 75gr BTHP to get a base line.

Man that’s sweet. Especially that S&B sitting on top. I’ve got to ask though...why not the Valkyrie or at least Grendel. How far do you plan on shooting with this rig?

Did you use a JP Thermal Disapaitor in the Noveske NSR rail???

I was so worried about making contact with my gas block.

would a tight(touching) rail/barrel fit be effective as "bedding?"

I was under the impression the barrel should NOT be touching anything.

Please posts how this works. I never ordered a Thermal Dissapiator because it would contact the small NSR ID

I have a 6.5 Grendel and it shoots sub moa consistently. I thought about the .224 V but it's hard to find a decent barrel other than JP and they're not promising delivery until April. Once they get their production in order on the .224 V and we can get more feedback on them I will re-visit the possibility.

Yes, I did and I had to mill a couple of thousands off the edges to make it fit tight but not overly tight.

Technically, it's not bedded in the sense that handguard movement would effect accuracy. Everybody free floats to lower resonance and this experiment may prove to be a mistake. To be honest I didn't anticipate the hand guard clearance issues and when I found out that I had to use one of JP's handguards to fit correctly I sort of got pissed and said screw them. I mean seriously, they could have made the dissipater .050 smaller in diameter rather than make it larger than any light weight handguard available except theirs. If it doesn't work like I think then I'll cut it off and remove the dissipater. If I were to order another barrel like this I would not pay the extra money for the dissipater. The rifle is basically a single shot so heat is not an issue. I thought they looked cool under the handguard giving the rifle a little flare.

The upper I used was a 15" and I had to cut 3" off of it and then install the gas block leaving it exposed. You probably would not want to do that if this was a field gun but this gun goes to and from the range or events in a hard case and nobody uses it but me. It is not a hunting rifle, I have the 6.5G and a LR .308 for that.

I used Noveske rail as well. and JP guts

The gas block was able to fit. Mostly because Ben steered me to NOT use a JP GB. But a JP marked Syrac.

I dont like how the barrel gets very thin under the rail. Probably just for the thermal dissapiator.

I would have preferred a larger profile. But for such a thin profile. It still shoots like a laser.
I rarely shoot long strings anymore. More like a slow 5 shot group and it sits.

But I have before and POI was not noticeable. Shocking for such a small barrel

I would really be interested in how your setup goes. Please report back

Just got back from the range. I was just trying to determine if the quasi bedding was going to work. I ran 5 rounds through it and it was o.k. but I could definitely feel the vibration all the way to my cheek. It was just slightly uncomfortable and I don't like it. I didn't shoot any targets yet. I broke down and ordered the 2" hand guard with the 1.75" inside diameter from JP. I did consider using another Noveske handguard that I have and then machining the gas block down but it would still be a tight fit. I just did a quick search for .936 gas blocks and didn't really find what I wanted. The Syrac's seem to be the ticket but appear to be out of production now. I'm really fond of the 2 piece adjustable gas blocks. The two piece design makes gas port alignment a snap and the detent adjustment makes tuning it for a specific round with the least amount of gas really helps in the process of reducing felt recoil.

If the dissipatior is only .05" to large, can you not turn it down carefully on the lathe? Or would it just bend the fins striking the cutting tool? I'd think so long as you went nice and slow you could? I don't have much experience with a lathe. (some but not a lot, never tried anything like that)

The dissipater is two piece so you'd have to do it on the barrel or a piece of round stock. I thought about cutting it down on my mill which would be easy but I want my gas block hidden under the hand guard too and I'd have to take a lot off it to make that work. The new handguard will be here tomorrow. JP is hitting on all cylinders now and getting product out now that SHOT is over. The challenge will be getting the old handguard off. I may have to cut it off with the mill or worst case, my 4-1/2" grinder with a cut off disc on it.

I milled 1/4" cut on both sides of the old handguard and it came off in two halves. I'm not putting the dissipater back on. I got the new handguard from JP and have to let it sit overnight so the Loctite can fully cure. That's no big deal since I had to order a 1-3/8 crows foot from MSC in order to torque the barrel nut. It is a different bird for sure but the way it works makes a lot more sense than other barrel nuts. I pre fitted everything and I actually like the way it looks better than I thought I would.

I waited overnight for the Loctite to setup hard and then made the wrench I needed to tighten the very proprietary barrel nut. It's a rather unique design that would take me several paragraphs to describe. You can make the wrench with a piece of 1/4" steel, a hacksaw and a 3/8" drill and a square file. I have a bandsaw and a mill so it was a much easier for me. The 1-3/8" crows foot will run you about 60.00 at MSC. I didn't find any auto parts stores that carried them.

So, the install was more involved than most and you do have to wait overnight for the Loctite to set. If you buy one of these it will become readily apparent that this is one part of the instructions that you would be wise to follow. For those of you the like Iron sights this is hand guard for you. You can adjust it so it is in perfect alignment with the barrel. If you need rail pieces, make sure you order them when you order the hand guard. This is not a M-Lok or Key Mod guard and it's round so you need the proprietary rail pieces.

When it arrived, I wasn't sure if I was going to like it but after I realized how well thought out it was and then put it in my hand I fell in love with it. Finally, a hand guard that fits my hand and feels very comfortable.

So the final cost on this rifle was right about 5000.00 more if you count all the stuff I bought and then changed my mind.. I do have enough to build another gun if I want though... LOL..

Took her out to the range and she functions beautifully. First 10 rounds of 55 gr .223 went to getting the gas block fine tuned. Typically if it will run with a 55 then it will be super reliable with a 62 or better. I use the JP adjustable GB's and as soon as it fully cycles for 10 rounds at least  with 55's I stop and do not add the extra 6 clicks for reliability because I never shoot less than 55's and 62 or heavier will increase gas pressure to a highly reliable state. After the first 10, I shot 10 more in rapid succession and then put it away. I brought it home and cleaned it and will take it out again to get it sighted in at 100 yards and give you some target pictures to look at.

I ran 40 rounds through it at 25 yards and then took it out to 100 yards. These are the last 3 rounds in the corner of the target which is less than the size of a dime. It's hard to tell that three rounds went through but I know I shot them.

Decided to order the ERA TAC Adjustable angle scope mount instead of using the 20 MOA mount that I have on it. The problem I have is that at 100 yards, I have to hold under the target by quite a bit because I run out of down elevation on the PMII. With the adjustable I'll be able to go from 0 to 70 with the mount and still have all the scope adjustment left. I'll be using SIG Elite Performance 77gr OTM which the ballistics show should shoot flat at 100 yards. That should give me a well zero'd rifle that can be reliably adjusted to other ammunition if their ballistics are reliable. * Used the word "should" here a lot * 495.00 for the mount which is why I didn't buy it the first time around.

I got the ERA-TAC adjustable but it's not cantilevered so my eye relief with that big scope isn't where I want it. I can order the handguard top rail from JP for 75.00 that would allow me to move it further forward but I'm probably going to put this scope on my .308 and put my Swarovski on this one. I ordered a JP non adjustable, flat, 34 mm cantilevered mount before I thought about swapping things up so I'm not really sure what I'll do. I'll know tomorrow when the JP gets here.

Don't try and bridge the gap if you can help it.  You want to keep the mount on the receiver.  Especially on a rifle built for precision shooting.

Glad you liked the JP handguard.  I've got one for an ar10 sitting in the parts bin.  Didn't provide enough clearance around the gas tube and I went with an SLR.

Agree, I didn't like the idea even though the JP handguard's mounting system is rock solid. Instead I got the JP 34mm cantilevered 1.47" high mount and then cut it down to fit the Schmidt and Bender PMII. I had to take .3750 off the front to make it work and it worked out perfect. Having a mill when you love precision rifles is such a huge asset. JP's stuff is often overbuilt so removing the first two screws of six and leaving all 6 in the rear will still keep the scope solid as a rock.