I’m not aware of a chassis that uses mini 30 mags so you might have to do some searching. If you are dead set on a chassis I’m thinking you’ll probably end up with an AR mag compatible version. I’d make sure and do my research that they will work with your gun.

Another Ruger American Ranch Superior Rifle Checking-in

7.62X39 Subs are AWESOME!

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RAR in 762x39 - First day out, First impressions.

I put a Nikon P-300 BLK 2-7x32 BDC Scope with SuperSub reticle for trial.  It’s mounted via ARMS 22 (low) throw rings (love these things)   Have previously used this on an SKS-D but been on the shelf for years.  The BDC reticle is for 300BLK ballistics and should more or less match 7.62x39, HOWEVER, I probably should have read up on the BDC aspects of this reticle.  I zeroed at 100yds and easily hit my marks at 100 and 200 (at 1st hash mark down) but couldn’t hit a thing at or beyond 300yds.  I’ve since read up and this reticle is meant to be zeroed at 200.  But this is another matter.

ACCURACY
Thus far I have NO complaints about accuracy and expect I can do better.  I grabbed some Barnaul FMJ as well as some Republic for the day.  I’m guessing the latter is the same Vympel marketed as Golden Tiger (looks identical).  They performed identically as far as I could tell.  There was virtually no distinction between the two regarding POI and group size.    I didn’t measure but I estimate all these groups mainly to be under 2” @ 100yds.  It will be interesting to see how the old corrosive milsurps performs (later).

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TRIGGER
I don’t know why but I was under the impression the RAR had a two-stage trigger –no.  Out of the box the trigger was unpleasant @  5lb, 6oz with a gritty creep just before break. I ran the adjustment screw in/out a few times playing at several adjustment points and got it down to 3lb,10z but no better. Nice clean break but still a slight grit before the break.  

ERGO
It’s a light handy rifle with moderate recoil and while the stock is really as cheesy as others have reported the form-factor / pistol grip is quite fine for my hand.  Wood in the same format would be nicer. I may or may not think about that later.  Frankly, I’m on the fence about even keeping this or perhaps contacting Ruger about the following.  I believe I mentioned I do have an RPR in .308.  That rifle’s action, while not exceptional, is very satisfactory/good.  Beyond this I have little to no experience with new, production rifles.  I mainly collect and shoot 20th century milsurps. After firing the RPR I can easily flip up the bolt handle with a couple fingers to cycle the next round with my eye barely leaving the scope’s site picture.  One of my PU Snipers is as nice and perhaps smoother (depending on ammo)

ACTION
The action is miserable!!!  Rough, chalky, dry feel with many bumps and obstacles to get the bolt forward and gturned to fire. A MAJOR effort to unbolt, draw back and cycle between rounds.  I literally have to take my left hand and hold the buttstock to cycle the action.  Much rough + kludge to force the bolt across the magazine and feed in the next round. The magazine drops easily when empty but I can sometimes, unintentionally force the bolt past the BHO follower feature.  Seating the magazine up takes a bit of force and I’m not always sure it’s seated because, either way, it seats loosely.  Several times I cycled nothing into the chamber realizing I needed to slam the magazine up into locked position.  Again it’s always loose.

CONCLUSION
In the end I could live with the ergonomics and trigger.  Shoots well, in fact, GREAT grouping for 7.62x39.  I would think about investing in a better stock/chassis and perhaps alternate scope selection, but I’m not sure I can get past the action as is.   It’s really awful.  Cheap, crappy feel, like a toy!  I know it’s not a top tier match gun but I find the RPR to be a pretty decent value for $1,200.  Again, I have little experience with new, outta-the-box firearms.  Was I expecting too much for a $450 bolt gun? Very unpleasant operating this thing.  Someone mentioned cycling a thousand times by hand to smooth out.  Not sure I’m up for that.  Should I be?  Any word on how to deal with this action?   I’m all ears.

The action will smooth up with some valve grinding compound. I did an action job on both my RPR’s and the RAP Grendel.

To lighten the trigger more you can replace the trigger return spring with a lighter one. They are sold on eBay and other places. Or simply remove it all together and the safety blade spring will reset the trigger. It should be a nice crisp less than 2lb trigger after that.

I still use the plastic original stock but replaced the magwell with the AR style one and use 7.62x39 AR mags. The action is a little rough but I cycle it fast and its not an issue. There are several YouTube vids of people sanding or polishing the bolt body and action race way to make it smoother.

Brass case Privi is shooting at or under MOA for me at 100yds.

I also have a CZ 527 and the action is smoother finished but it has a lot of slop cycling it. If I don't hold the bolt handle just right the bolt will bind up in the race way and jam. I have to cycle it with my thumb pushing on the rear of the cocking piece to work smoothly.

To be clear, I understand some lapping compound or JB Bore paste applied to the bolt lugs and worked over and over should accelerate aging/break-in/smoothing of that function of the action (turn and unturn of the bolt). And I’ll try that.  Still, pushing/dragging it across a loaded magazine is a clunky chore.

If I fall in love with this thing I may try trigger springs or even drop in a Timney.  I understand it is supposed to be 2-stage, however, their product description page does not say.

https://timneytriggers.com/replacement-trigger-for-the-ruger-american-centerfire/

I have this same rifle.  Yep, the bolt can be quirky.  I put an Anarchy Outdoors bolt handle on it and that helped tremendously.  These RAR's can't be beat for the price which is why I have 3 of them.

OP, there’s a 30+ page thread on the RAR in GD (of all places):

https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/Ruger-American-Ranch/5-2513605/&page=32

There’s discussion on the rough bolt, as well as the effort to operate the bolt.

I can speak from experience that the rifle benefits from simply operating the bolt repeatedly with an unloaded rifle.  As in watch a TV show and just cycle the bolt over and over.

That's a massive thread (read).  Scanned quite a bit.  Lots of praise for how great the accuracy and how lame the stock is with all manners of calibers and versions of their bolt guns.  Perhaps there is advice in there.  I'll have to park it and read through it all to discover how to smooth out the action.  No one really talks about that so far as I can find.  Anyway thanks for the link I will explore further.

So far I worked the bolt and lugs slathered in bore paste for what must have been hundreds of times.  Without magazine installed it does indeed seem improved, however, mag loaded wi snap-caps it still and awful action. pushing and pulling the bolt.  Turning bolt down and up with mag installed it still quite difficult.  I was wondering/thinking with the action in a chassis allowing for AR version Duramags or similar it could be better but that's a pretty expensive rabbit hole to run down as a test.  Anyone have any other ideas?  It just NOT a pleasant experience cycling.  In fact I'm pretty perturbed at how awful it is.

Okay I did my build off the RAP that used the ar15 magazine. This aids with the bolt lift with the magazine cut outs. Second I use AICS magazines that I polished up a bit with the dremil and polish paste. As for the cocking lug in the bolt I used the dremil jewel wheel to polish it up. Do not touch the pot metal firing pin lug. It’s too soft. You can get a lighter spring but for the 7.62x39 I don’t recommend it. An aftermarket tactical bolt will help some too. Like I stated before you have to like to tinker to get them up to speed. Another buddy got a fluted bolt online that helped his x39. The heavier tactical chassis help but I don’t suggest that for the x39. I would pour some accuglass or bartop resin in the factory stock to stiffen it up.

This guy has a simple but useful idea. But I don’t know how it will work with a bipod and cant flex.

Whelp,  I may be starting to develop and affinity for this little bargain rifle after all.  I’ve cycled JB Bore Paste many times and the action has smoothed out a bit.  Still a bit of a chore pushing/pulling over the magazine but this to shows signs of improvement.   I may file/sand mag feed lips as suggested, however, I have a confidence the action will improve with a different stock/chassis and use of standard AR type Duramags (or similar) for x39.  I’m going to go this route.  After todays outing, I’m pretty pleased with the results warranting going forward with the whole purpose of this folly.

I moved to a Harris bipod + rear bag and installed an old Pride & Fowler 4x BDC “rapid reticle” for 762x39.  Cystal clear glass and the BDC was effective  +/- out to 300 yds.  Couldn’t really make the 400yd steel this time out.



As a control from last time out to re-zero I ran a few mags of Republic ammo (forgot to take pics of groups but at or under 2”).  Next I ran some Yugo M67 and while the POI was essentially the same it was averaging 2+” groups.  



The big surprise was some fairly old Russian “tin” ammo I broke open after many years.  Sub 1.5” groups although the POI was down and to the left of the Republic and M67.  Not that I’ll be able to find it again but can anyone identify this tin of ammo any further?  Case head says SADU /  07 / 7.62

I handled a few 527s back when they were being made and i can say the size and ergonomics felt perfect. The ballanced great and just felt perfect. To me they felt only slightly bigger than a good 22lr bolt action. I wish i had one. I do have a CZ452 that i had cut and threaded at 16 5 that wears a Zeiss 3-9. Great little gun. Somthing so nice about a rifle that is all steel and wood.

SADU is Romanian. I should have known that from some 54r I have.  Begs the question, dating back from 2007 - corrosive?

Whoa man. Thought I'd share the love.  $440 base price AND a $100 rebate from Ruger . Pretty screamin deal if anyone following is interested . . . .

https://grabagun.com/ruger-american-ranch-7-62x39-fde-16.html?trk_msg=7P9D7IG6VTTKBCM0VHHBAUHGC0&trk_contact=UOF3E0G1OE79941HDL1KLC0DO4&trk_sid=NCLFQG7KT44IE7PHJRJDJK9PF4&trk_link=NDCJQD49H8TKP5FUCF3F2V94DC&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=Ruger+American+Ranch+Rifle+Flat+Dark+Earth+7.62x39+16.1%26quot%3B+Barrel+5-Rounds+%28title%29&utm_campaign=Blast+-+Behavioral+Banner

It definitely feeds smoother from plastic mags. I swapped magwells to the AR style one from Ruger and use poly mags most often. Also has much more common mag options and cheaper.

2A Sales and Supplies in Jessup , MD has a CZ527M in 7.62x39 used with 1” CZ rings for $799. Passing it along if anyone is looking. Thats a decent price these days. I already have one or I’d have bought it already. Not sure but I don’t think they’d have any issue shipping it to another FFL. I’ve bought CZ stuff from them before and they’re always solid folks.

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Here’s mine. Theyre excellent rifles for the money…even if they are more expensive than RAR’s.

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Whelp after a couple weeks of running several applications and cycle-sessions of valve lapping compound the action does feel smoother except when cycling the mag with snap-caps.  By itself with lithium grease and CLP it does feel much smoother but still a clunky, rough action over the magazine and still a tough turn when unlocking the bolt.  No perceived improvement there.   I certainly don’t think I can/should go any further cycling with lapping compound. I’ve probably gone 1,000 cycles (pulling the trigger half the time).  The inside action and bolt shows plenty of wear from artificial aging in this way.

Anyway,  today I came really close to ordering the “MTD LSS-XL Gen2 Chassis”.  But at $530, plus a butt stock, plus pistol grip and I believe I still need a conversion bottom-metal to accommodate AR mags,  meh, I just found it tough to justify all that expense for this little $430 rifle.  So, I just ordered a Boyds “AT-ONE Thumbhole” in Pepper (kinda grey and white laminate).  For $300 it’s a straighter pistol grip with pretty cool push-button mechanisms for instant comb height an LOP adjustment.  And the variant includes the hardware to accommodate AR/762x39 mags.  So, $343.84 (tax/shipped) + $91.87 for 5) 10rd 762x39 AR DuraMags (tax/shipped) and I’m in business for less that the base MTD chassis alone.  Hoping the action is improved with this stock and mags (no matter).   Added bonus:  No BHO feature on the DuraMags.

Will post pics when all together.

7.62x39 is an awesome caliber for a bolt gun. As mentioned, the three main options were CZ, Ruger, and Howa. I own two of them.

In my opinion, the CZ 527 is one of the finest bolt guns ever produced. They are accurate, compact, and more refined like most CZ offerings. They also were a great price before they were discontinued for the chunkier, more expensive, and less reliable 600.

I was unable to find a CZ, so I bought a RAR in 7.62x39. Its a solid rifle with a good trigger, threaded barrel, and shockingly accurate with cheap x39 ammo. Compared to the CZ, the finish was less refined, the build is more chunky, and the stock is horrible.

A year later I got super lucky and found a CZ 527 for an amazing price. It still had the factory grease inside, and I don't believe it was every fired. The finish is amazing, and the iron sights are awesome. Its accurate, and the set trigger is amazing. I like the ruger, but I love the CZ.

Ive held a couple Howa, but never shot one is x79. Being able to buy them as just a barreled assembly is tempting.

To Summarize: Id take the ruger over the CZ any day. When I finally pony up for a suppressor I'll have to get it threaded, but I'll enjoy irons sights until then. Admittedly, I'm a sucker for the refinement and form factor that CZ is known for. If your primary concern is a cheap rifle with a great trigger, accuracy, and threaded barrel; go for the ruger. If you want something a little more premium, try to find a CZ 527. You will not be disappointed.

Side note: I just purchased an MDT chassis for the ruger. We'll see if ditching the cheapy stock will change my overall enjoyment while shooting it. I can some try to provide photos and a follow-up review if you all are interested.

Here's the semi finished result. Bit heavier than the Ruger plasti-stock but faaaar more attractive and ergonomic in my view. Cycling with snap caps with AR mags feels much better on the bench. Still can't do an index finger release of the bolt. Considering how much cycling I did with lapping compound I imagine it's more of a high tension bolt-spring issue that I probably should not mess with (open to suggestions here). It definitely has significant fitment issues to which Boyds has responded :

"Hello, I would get some fine grit sandpaper and lightly sand and clean up the inletting of the stock, remove any wood burrs / slivers. If the barrel is making contact after cleaning up the inletting sand on the left side of the stock, where the action sits down in at. There may be something there that is shifting the action over and then resulting in the barrel coming back to the left.

You can also try baby powder on the barreled action, if there is a high spot, the powder will rub off on it and you can gently sand it down. When tightening the front action screw to 25-35 inch pounds you can also gently pull the barrel to the right. If that doesn't work, please let us know"


I haven't sent these pics yet nor have I attempted sanding. Seems like considerable mis-fitment requiring quite a bit of sanding (in my opinion) that should be closer to free float out of the box than this. I'm gonna tweak/mess with it this weekend. Might get it to the range Sunday.

You can tape the barrel up and get it centered then bed the action and save a lot of sanding. That’s why Boyd’s recommends bedding the action. It does look a whole lot better in my book. Savage is offering Boyd’s stocks on some of their models.

Well, my little saga continues if anyone is interested and/or may learn from those that come before them (or just want to bag on me).

Cleaning up the inside of the stock with a bit of aggressive sanding and medium grit did sort out the alignment of the barrel in the action.  Now, on to what’s peculiar.  I discovered that when I hand tighten the action snug into the stock the bolt moves freely.  When I crank it down to about 30lbs, as Boyds recommends, the bolt will not clear the magwell and stops short of being able to close.  I added a couple #10 washers to the front action screw and that solved it BUT I should have added washers to the rear (duh) action and trigger guard screws b/c after a couple install removals the plastic magwell cracked and broke at the trigger guard.  Okay, that’s on me.  







They graciously sent a replacement free of charge advising me to go ahead and use the washers to space the magwell away to clear the bolt at full install torque.  Not sure if that’s going to be a solution.  Having Duramag issues as well:  Two of five (on the left) only accept 9 rounds and the other three show the noses tilting up.  Also, every once in a while, some rounds got ridden over by the bolt forcing me to hold the mag up during charging (caused by washers?).  I contacted them and their VP of Sales was prompt and concerned asking if I would disassemble and take pics.  Never could figure out how to get that floorplate off.  





After a few emails back n forth he went dark on me (maybe something way more important came up in his life).   GunMagWarehouse took them back for a refund and I have since ordered a pair each of ASC and of D&H Tactical ten rounders as testing alternates.  I also round some thinner brass washers.  We’ll see how these do.  If the bolt continues to ride over rounds, then it’s pretty clear to conclude that the Boyds stock in relation to the magwell and magazine fitment is out of spec.

Ruger American all the way

Yes, that happened.

I have the Ruger ranch in 7.62x39. Its not as smooth of an action as my Savage in 300 blackout which is slicker than owl shit. Rugers ranch rifle action is like rubbing two rocks together. Thats my only complaint. Other than that, I have a large volume Griffin Armament Sportsman supressor on it and a Primary arms 3x prism optic. I sighted it in at 50y and it hits again at 200y. Its my favorite bolt action to shoot. So simple and I use pallets of soviet ammo as guest furniture so theres plenty of shooting when you load up a few of the higher capacity mini-30 mags.