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Posted: 5/24/2022 9:20:30 PM EDT
So I have about 2+ acres of field grass that I cut with my finish mower attached to my JD 3032E It beats the heck out of me due to the bumps and whatnot. Have the tires at about the lowest pressure possible to help, but it's not enough. A bigger tractor/longer wheel base would probably help and that's an option I suppose.
Was thinking I could take the tiller and set it to cut down 1-2 inches to level things out a bit. Obviously it would wipe out the grass but nature being what it is, I'm sure it'll grow back eventually. Anybody have any experience in this area? |
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[#1]
Quoted: So I have about 2+ acres of field grass that I cut with my finish mower attached to my JD 3032E It beats the heck out of me due to the bumps and whatnot. Have the tires at about the lowest pressure possible to help, but it's not enough. A bigger tractor/longer wheel base would probably help and that's an option I suppose. Was thinking I could take the tiller and set it to cut down 1-2 inches to level things out a bit. Obviously it would wipe out the grass but nature being what it is, I'm sure it'll grow back eventually. Anybody have any experience in this area? View Quote I think probably your best option is a combination of the tiller for ruts and higher spots, and leveling with sand/soil for the lower spots. This is all a lot of work of course, but it will pay off with a smoother ride. Depending on the grass you have, WEEDS will more likely fill in, than grass. If you have Bermuda, no worries, the grass will fill quickly. If you have cool season grass like fescue, that won't happen. You'll need to sow a little seed in the bare spots your create. ETA: I see you are in Georgia according to your avatar. So you may have Bermuda. I don't know what they grow down there for field grass/pasture/hay. |
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[#2]
Thanks KWS!
Have some Zoysia but mostly weeds and whatever other type of grass that's here. It used to be pasture/cattle land. Every time I dig up or wipe out an area whatever it is that grows seems to come back. It's green so that's good enough for me. It's kind of rolling land and not especially flat. I'll take a picture tomorrow and post for reference. Maybe I'll try a section of it and see how it works before attacking the whole thing. |
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[#4]
I would think discing then harrowing would take care of most bumps without going to the extreme of grading it with a dozer (which would probably leave the smoothest finished product).
Does your tractor have a FEL? If so, do you mow with it on? I've never used a tractor that small, but on my bigger 5055, taking off the FEL while mowing really improves the ride in rough areas. |
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[#5]
My field was like this. I had a farmer friend rent it out fir the past few tears to get it tilled nice and im going to put it back into grass next year.
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[#6]
Quoted: I would think discing then harrowing would take care of most bumps without going to the extreme of grading it with a dozer (which would probably leave the smoothest finished product). Does your tractor have a FEL? If so, do you mow with it on? I've never used a tractor that small, but on my bigger 5055, taking off the FEL while mowing really improves the ride in rough areas. View Quote Thanks for all the tips/suggestions. No FEL. Just a mowing machine most of the time. I'm thinking about getting a bigger tractor this year though, for plowing and tilling a large portion of the field for a garden and using the smaller JD for mowing. A heavier tractor will come in handy for doing other work in the wooded areas of the property as well. Attached File Here's the field. Been cutting it for 32 years now. The ground is pretty darn hard. Most of the time I wait to cut until we have a heavy rain to soften the soil a bit Started out with a MF 235 and a 6' finish mower when I bought the place. That tractor was bigger and heavier, which is probably why I now notice all the bumps more so since I'm using the smaller JD. Attached File |
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[#7]
I've got the same problem but I've been looking at a land plane for my tractor. Thought about tilling it but the still need to level it.
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[#8]
Quoted: Thanks for all the tips/suggestions. No FEL. Just a mowing machine most of the time. I'm thinking about getting a bigger tractor this year though, for plowing and tilling a large portion of the field for a garden and using the smaller JD for mowing. A heavier tractor will come in handy for doing other work in the wooded areas of the property as well. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/17185/JD_TRACTOR_jpg-2396542.JPG Here's the field. Been cutting it for 32 years now. The ground is pretty darn hard. Most of the time I wait to cut until we have a heavy rain to soften the soil a bit Started out with a MF 235 and a 6' finish mower when I bought the place. That tractor was bigger and heavier, which is probably why I now notice all the bumps more so since I'm using the smaller JD. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/17185/JD_FIELD_jpg-2396543.JPG View Quote Okay so a question cuz I don't completely understand your process. Why do you wait til it's softer to mow? Cuz...the softer it is, the more you are compacting the soil AND the more it will tend to make the ground uneven where the wheels go. So I think I'm not understanding completely. IDEALLY you would mow with something lighter and smaller (not narrower--just not a big tractor, which I think you are already planning to do) and not take the heavier equipment on that "lawn" area. (I know it's maybe not what you consider lawn, but you're mowing it as such). This will help the grass grow better, the soil be healthier, and help prevent more bumpiness. |
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[#9]
Quoted: Okay so a question cuz I don't completely understand your process. Why do you wait til it's softer to mow? Cuz...the softer it is, the more you are compacting the soil AND the more it will tend to make the ground uneven where the wheels go. So I think I'm not understanding completely. IDEALLY you would mow with something lighter and smaller (not narrower--just not a big tractor, which I think you are already planning to do) and not take the heavier equipment on that "lawn" area. (I know it's maybe not what you consider lawn, but you're mowing it as such). This will help the grass grow better, the soil be healthier, and help prevent more bumpiness. View Quote Points well made. I guess I never really thought I was compacting the soil and making it more uneven by mowing when its softer after a big rain storm, but I guess that makes sense. The reason I was mowing it that way was because the ride was smoother since the ground was saturated with water. Thanks for pointing that out. |
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[#10]
Quoted: Points well made. I guess I never really thought I was compacting the soil and making it more uneven by mowing when its softer after a big rain storm, but I guess that makes sense. The reason I was mowing it that way was because the ride was smoother since the ground was saturated with water. Thanks for pointing that out. View Quote No worries! Any chance you could go for a lighter machine? Maybe a big Zero Turn Mower or something? It's still a thousand pounds, but it's not FOUR thousand pounds...I have no idea what that tractor weighs. And listen.. When we do agriculture, nowadays, we compact the soil, then we dig it up. We compact it, we dig it up. That's not good for it, and there are ways to help it. But you have GRASS. You've been treating it sort of like ag land, and I know I'm calling your attention to that. What you have been doing is not wrong. But it might be causing some issues you wish to change. So only you know what you wish to do to make that land better. |
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[#11]
How about the big drums full of water that you pull behind...?
Yard rollers or some such |
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[#12]
We have always drug rough pastures with a railroad iron. We now use an aerator with a chain harrow to help smooth out pastures. Personally with out looking at the pasture I can’t give you the best practices to smooth it up. The problem with tillage is it brings up rocks. That need to be picked up. If it’s not rocky and modestly rough just running your brush hog low to ground will plan off the rough spots. It’s hard on the gear box and blades though. Setting your tiller high and dragging it works best in the spring if you burn it off. If you don’t burn it the grass clumps will ball when you drag it and make new bumps. We deal yearly with hog rooting and the pto tiller is our go to for small areas. And even then we have a depression that will later have to be delt with using a disk and a cultipacker or drag harrow.
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[#13]
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[#14]
Quoted: Harley rake is what you seek. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/86377/6BE0DAC7-684A-437E-89F6-B84E91D38889_jpe-2405819.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/86377/5471E982-35F5-42BF-9242-00ED6E1E8571_jpe-2405820.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/86377/FE6354A2-9A2D-488B-AC26-0A197064FD12_jpe-2405822.JPG View Quote I want one. Not cheap though. I thought I was done with implements. |
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[#15]
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[#16]
Quoted: Harley rake is what you seek. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/86377/6BE0DAC7-684A-437E-89F6-B84E91D38889_jpe-2405819.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/86377/5471E982-35F5-42BF-9242-00ED6E1E8571_jpe-2405820.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/86377/FE6354A2-9A2D-488B-AC26-0A197064FD12_jpe-2405822.JPG View Quote They are nice and wind row the rocks pretty good unless you hit a big buried one. Then it bounces off and shakes the whole machine. I’ve never used one on a larger pasture. |
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[#17]
Quoted: They are nice and wind row the rocks pretty good unless you hit a big buried one. Then it bounces off and shakes the whole machine. I've never used one on a larger pasture. View Quote Very handy for taking care of rocks. The buddy I borrow this one from bought it just for doing a 6 ish acre pasture he bought. It now looks better than some golf courses I've been on, even uses an old fairway mower with auto steer on it |
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[#19]
Quoted: I want one. Not cheap though. I thought I was done with implements. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Harley rake is what you seek. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/86377/6BE0DAC7-684A-437E-89F6-B84E91D38889_jpe-2405819.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/86377/5471E982-35F5-42BF-9242-00ED6E1E8571_jpe-2405820.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/86377/FE6354A2-9A2D-488B-AC26-0A197064FD12_jpe-2405822.JPG I want one. Not cheap though. I thought I was done with implements. Rent one....... |
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[#20]
A drag harrow as previously mentioned will help over time. It will scratch off the high spots and fill in the low ones while following the contour of your land. A harley rake is more invasive but the best option although there is a learning curve, and you will need to reseed after finishing. I would hit it a few times with a drag harrow. You can buy them cheap and it will be the widest implement your tractor can handle which means more consistent passes and it's honestly idiot proof. You could get a 10' or 12' chain style harrow and your tractor will handle it. It won't be an a one and done solution but if you use it repeatedly then over time it will help you knock down the high spots and fill in the low ones and pop up rocks if you have any.
You could come in with a 5' or 6' roller behind that to roll in the loose stuff and knock down the high spots. Look for one that is able to be filled with water. You could rent one pretty easily. This would be great to do after you have drug a harrow in a few different directions. I own a few farms, have 4 tractors from 30hp to 90hp and have run equipment for a finish grade company I had ownership in a while ago. I've reclaimed fields and put in yards for new construction in case you want to validate my opinion. -Grove |
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[#21]
Good points there Grove. I have a drag harrow and have used it a few times in the field. Rigged up an attach point on the back of my finish mower and towed it around with me at least a dozen times. Never really noticed much of a difference but maybe its time to try agian
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[#22]
Quoted: Good points there Grove. I have a drag harrow and have used it a few times in the field. Rigged up an attach point on the back of my finish mower and towed it around with me at least a dozen times. Never really noticed much of a difference but maybe its time to try agian View Quote A railroad iron works better if you rig it where the back kinda cuts the ground. You may have to put some old tires on top of your drag harrow to give it some weight. |
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[#23]
You can do it just fine with your tiller and a landscape rake, maybe a chain link fence drag to do the final slick up
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[#24]
OP, in Georgia best to do it in the winter when the ground is softer. Try harrow followed by a box blade. I went from mowing a ten acre orchard with a tractor to a big zero turn. Huge difference. Tractor beat me to death.
I’ve got a rough terrace I’m going to harrow and box blade this week. First time smoothed it pretty good. I can’t wait till winter. |
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[#25]
Thanks for all the tips Gents
I'll get after it this winter and see how she goes |
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[#26]
Quoted: Harley rake is what you seek. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/86377/6BE0DAC7-684A-437E-89F6-B84E91D38889_jpe-2405819.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/86377/5471E982-35F5-42BF-9242-00ED6E1E8571_jpe-2405820.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/86377/FE6354A2-9A2D-488B-AC26-0A197064FD12_jpe-2405822.JPG View Quote As far as having to reseed your yard/fields: according to this video, harley raking a yard doesn't necessarily require reseeding. He used a harley rake to level his fields and you can see after he was done that a lot of grass is still left. FWIW. ETA: What size harley rake did you use on your 2032R? Thanks, How To Level A Field With A Harley Rake |
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[#27]
Quoted: This is the solution that I'm looking at for my yard and acreage. Like the OP, I'm getting really tired of getting beat to death when I mow my 2-3 acres twice a week. As far as having to reseed your yard/fields: according to this video, harley raking a yard doesn't necessarily require reseeding. He used a harley rake to level his fields and you can see after he was done that a lot of grass is still left. FWIW. ETA: What size harley rake did you use on your 2032R? Thanks, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6B_cZ1EAqU View Quote @Merlin 6'. Had plenty of power for it. The only time I was a little short on power was trying to drag a lot of dirt uphill. |
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[#28]
Quoted: @Merlin 6'. Had plenty of power for it. The only time I was a little short on power was trying to drag a lot of dirt uphill. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: This is the solution that I'm looking at for my yard and acreage. Like the OP, I'm getting really tired of getting beat to death when I mow my 2-3 acres twice a week. As far as having to reseed your yard/fields: according to this video, harley raking a yard doesn't necessarily require reseeding. He used a harley rake to level his fields and you can see after he was done that a lot of grass is still left. FWIW. ETA: What size harley rake did you use on your 2032R? Thanks, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6B_cZ1EAqU @Merlin 6'. Had plenty of power for it. The only time I was a little short on power was trying to drag a lot of dirt uphill. Thanks, |
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[#29]
Quoted: Ok, good, my L4330 should have no trouble with one either. If I can get rid of the top 20% and fill in the bottom 20%, I'll be happy. Thanks, View Quote @Merlin I think it's the depth you set. Depending on the machine you are using to run the rake, there are different ways to control the depth (I have not done this with a tractor but I'm assuming the lift will allow this, if a tractor is what you are using.) So if you go deep, you're going to have to reseed everything, because you are basically tilling your entire lawn. You have to keep it really shallow, and pay attention to the depth as you go, to just get the high spots. If you do it that way, it is my opinion that you're still going to have to do some manual work with a rake or a leveling drag to get the high spots out. Because you're kind of using a dump truck to spread gravel on a small path, if that makes sense? So you're going to have high spots gone, but it's not going to have a lot of finesse. That's MY experience with a harley rake. Folks who use one a lot more may have better advice for just hitting "high spots" and not tearing up all the grass. I have not seen this done effectively. Edited to add: It sounds like with your 20/20 scenario you will be fine, but you have to set it more shallow than I have ever seen one used. |
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[#30]
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