There are different types of oil lights and different types of fuels.

There are lanterns, lamps, torches, round wick, flat wick, and mantle.  Fuels there's liquid paraffin, lamp oil, kerosene, and mineral spirits.  

Lanterns

In a nutshell what separates lamps from lanterns is the lantern is more rugged, designed to be carried if needed, and more windproof than lamps.  Their glass globes are either held in place mechanically From a survival standpoint especially a long-term one where battery consumption is an issue, they have a major advantage over lamps in that they can be used outdoors more effectively.  

There are three basic lantern types, Railroad Lantern, Yacht Lamp (really a lantern), and French lantern.  All three lantern types depending on what you buy can be quite decorative for home use especially the Yacht Lamp and French Lantern.  The Yacht lamps are typically designed for the most fuel efficiency but both French and Yacht can also have wall mounts which is not only handy but looks quite decorative in the home.

Hurricane Lantern

Yacht Lamp

French Lantern


These are the most typical configurations but there are dozens of others.  The four sided hanging electric lights you see on poles in peoples yards is another example of French Lantern.  Yacht lamps can be much larger with even a round globe going from round wick to flat wick.  Railroad style, can also be very decorate.  I like the black trimmed in brass myself.

The basic works of a Lantern is really quite simple and drawing lines on who makes the best can be quite difficult.  Like buying a tent if you watch the features, even cheap lantern can last you a lifetime.  I personally avoid the chrome plated or brass inexpensive ones.  Depending on what fuel you use, typically the lighter ones like liquid paraffin or mineral oil, they will leak unless noted on the bottom for that fuel.  The painted models hold up much better.  All the yacht lamps and most of the French lanterns with flat hats as pictured are designed for the thinner fuels.  There's a reason for that, they are intended for indoor use and/or confined spaces like on a boat where fumes are really not desirable.  

By far the best lanterns available (going to be a trend here in this thread) are antique American made.  They are built like a tank.  These can be found reasonably priced enough at yard sales, flea markets, and for more money in antique stores.  Of the railroad type lanterns and new, the top of the line is Dietz.  Dietz is made overseas but to have the same interchangeable parts as the Dietz antiques but there is a definite quality difference.  Of the yacht lamps, my pick is Weems and Plath.  They simply have a solid reputation for quality and a favorite of boaters.  Of the French styles, I don't have a preference but will mention these can be quite expensive the more decorative you go.

Lamps

What separates lamps from lanterns for the most part is metal vs glass with the lamps being predominate glass.  There are two basic types of lanterns flat wick and mantle.  

The flat wick is a very durable method that the wick infrequently used will last a lifetime.  Its limitation is the more light you want the bigger the wick so the bigger the lamp to handle the flame size.  The mantle types are designed to put out maximum light by maximizing the capillary wicking effect.   They are tremendous lights but you give up a lot of reliability to how they are used, the fuel used, and how delicate the wick is.  

Flat wick (metal without globe)


Mantle type (metal without globe)


I choosing a lamp, you have the same concerns in metal as the Lantern, however most lamps are glass so even cheap ones will last a lifetime.  Where you really get into the money is making them decorative.  Colored glass bottoms and adding decorate globes is an amazing price adder.  

Since I do not use these day in or day out, my preference once again is as my ancestors a flat wick design.  By far the best out there are the antique Alladins, hands down.  The flat wick puts out good enough light. I don't need to try to simulate an electric lightbulb.  Their fuel consumption rate if good and the wicks can be had from more one source by simply matching up the size.  You can even share wick sizes with railroad lanterns.  

Of the current production flat wick lantern, I'm afraid they about all are imported, however Leman's like Dietz carries a line of lanterns that are designed around the original antique lamps of old from companies like Consolidated etc.  Still I have some cheap glass ones too and can't knock their functionality.  The antique copies are simply way more decorative.  

If maximum output is your thing then the only way to go is the mantle and the brand is Aladdin.  I don't recommend these for the emergency only users since they are not as user friendly, expensive, use more fuel, and one should probably stock up on the wicks.  Still they put out an amazing light amount.  These are very popular with Alladins target market the Amish who do not use electric lights and want to match their intensity as closely as possible.  These people use these lamps daily and have it down to an art.  

In all of the lamp types and brands, let me stress, you pay money for how decorative they are.  That is simply the market.  They can all be fitted/sized for hardware and globes.  Those globes can cost way more than the lamp especially the colored glass or hand painted ones.  You can save a lot of money here by shopping around enough to buy another lamp.  

Fuel Types

All of the non-pressurized lanterns and lamps operate on the same principle of capillary action.  The fuel is brought up from the tank by capillary action (wicking) through the wick, the flame heats the fuel to a gas, then the gas is burned as a flame.  Needless to say if you follow this, the wicks are designed for a give capillary action depending on the fluids specific gravity (how heavy it is).  

In general the lighter fuels have less smell, soot, and noxious fumes.  The best of course is liquid paraffin which burns which is just a low temp wax.  Because both liquid paraffin and mineral oil are so light, you basically can not use them in any lamp/lantern with a flat wick size of over 7/8's of an inch width and maximize the output of the light without experiencing some flame flicker which adds to the soot and smell.  Still that being said, 7/8s wick is one big ass light.  The usual size is about 5/8s.  

Lamp oil is simply liquid paraffin add in some kerosene to get the specific gravity up.  This gives you a cleaner burn than pure kerosene but not as clean as liquid paraffin.  The goal here is emulate kerosene's capillary action as close as possible while limiting the fumes and soot.  Since mantle lamps use so much fuel so fast they are highly dependent on the capillary action of the wick system to work properly.  It is this type lamp oil is recommended and with Aladin specifically their lamp oil.  

Although most lanterns and lamps are designed around kerosene (mantle type the exception), I'm afraid its only advantage is cost.  It smells the most and puts out soot the most. Still if you can live with that it burns nice and even assuming its good quality kerosene.  The advantage here from a survival standpoint is if you are using kerosene as your backup heating method, then you have extra fuel for your lamps.

All of these fuels have an almost indefinite storage life, however the plastic containers do not.  They yellow and become brittle and the least bump your fuel will spill.  It takes a little looking but I highly recommend the old style painted or galvanized lamp oil cans for storage.  You can tell these because they have a screw type large center lid and a small spout for filling smaller dispensers or use with a funnel.  I have two of these one small half gallon that the spout is small enough to fill the lamps/lanterns and one larger 2 gallon to fill the first one.  The larger is brand new but I had to go antique to get the smaller one.  

I personally keep liquid paraffin, lamp oil, and since I use kerosene for my backup heat have 40 gallons of that.   If I have my druthers, I'd rather use liquid paraffin hands down to any other fuel.  Its simply that much better on fumes and soot.  

Oh well, I hope you all find this useful.  I'll leave maintenance things like wick cleaning and trimming for another post.  This ones pretty long.

TJ

Originally Posted By ColtRifle: I'd like to see pics of your lamps as well!!!!

Here's a nice basic one.....

Originally Posted By Feral: Originally Posted By ColtRifle: I'd like to see pics of your lamps as well!!!! Here's a nice basic one..... img.photobucket.com/albums/v40/FredFeral/lamp1.jpg

I hadn't thought of a paper shade approach.  We have a new colbalt blue bulleye lamp we've been looking for a globe for.  

We may do this until we find the right glass glove for the price.

Thx.

TJ

Originally Posted By MonkeyGrip: I use them in the house with kero, when the power's out.  I don't like the idea of Alladin lamps, 'cause the wicks are not robust and they can't be moved.  Ditto for glass or table flat wick lanterns, which are OK but in an emergency, it's nice to have something made for portablity, which the Dietz/Champion lantern is.  Works good in or out.  I've literally left them sitting outside (covered), filled with kero, for over a year and lit them up just fine.  I can read by them.   I buy clear kero buy the gallon, stored in a 15 gallon plastic drum, that I also use for my kero heater.   Another lantern I'd like to have is the Kosmos, which uses a wrapped around flat wick.  The flat wick provides reliabilty and easy of operation over mantle or pressure lanterns, while the wrap around wick design allows for more light, reportedly, enough light to read.

The Kosmos lamps are nice. I'd like to give one of them a try myself.

Alladins can be moved while running but I agree they lack the durability of a wick lamp.

Originally Posted By 2Evil4U: DEITZ lamps.

This.

I bought 2 years ago.  They work with Kerosene or lamp oil (which can be nice).

Originally Posted By Forest: Originally Posted By 2Evil4U: DEITZ lamps. This. I bought 2 years ago.  They work with Kerosene or lamp oil (which can be nice).

The smaller wick ones work great with liquid parafin as well.  

The Dietz Black original


This is one of my favorites.  Its a nice size with a good light but still attractive enough for display in the home.

I have the Jupiter which is monster one best suited for lamp oil or kerosene which I use just for outdoors.  Man, that thing is a tank and puts out some light.

This is my latest buy, the Milenium 2000.



This is a version that can be used either as a standard lamp or as a light cooker.  It is based on an old railroad design popular in the mid 20th peak railroad days by railroad men who like the northern factory workers who heated their pizza on steam wall heaters, heated their lunches over their lanterns.  

You know guys.  We often think how well we have it these days but when you see stuff like this, I don't know about you all but it reminds me of all the damn cold sandwiches I have eaten day in and day out doing jobs away from kitchens and restaurants.  Let's see, cold winter day, cold baloney or hot beef stew?  These old guys were pretty darn sharp in my book.

Tj

Originally Posted By zukguy: Don't use Kero in the house it stinks bad.  Just buck up and buy the perafin with an Aladdin and you will be happy for many years to come, IMO they are the best lamp for inside the house hands down.

I think to a large extent "stinks bad" is relative to the sensitivity of one's nose.

Some folks just can't tolerate any hint of burning kero it seems, where others are more tolerant. Mrs. Feral was worried about that but quickly became accustomed to (what I consider) the slight kerosene odor that the lamps produce.

We oftentimes had 3, sometimes 4, lamps going at the same time in the depths of winter and find the odor quite tolerable. If you burn your lamps a lot, you'll find that kerosene is much more attractive financially. If we didn't use the lamps much, I'd just stock lamp oil but with high usage, I found that kerosene worked for us.

Here's a couple lamps on the mantle of the old house:

Originally Posted By ColtRifle: Originally Posted By Shooter7: I'm looking into buying one of these BriteLyt Petromax lanterns.  Any of you guys have one you can give a report on?  They purport to burn all fuels: "BriteLyt lanterns run on a variety of fuels.. kerosene, alcohol-based fuels, mineral spirits, citronella oil, gasoline, Biodiesel, diesel fuel, Coleman fuel, & almost every flammable fuel available on the market." www.britelyt.com/lanterns.htm www.britelyt.com/images/lantern004.jpg I'm interested in this one as well.  Anyone have one and can give us a review???

I don't own one but have played with them.

They are nice lights very similar to the Colemans.  The concept is the same however one needs to keep in mind that how that generator works really varies by the type of fuel you are using.  You're going to have a lot more cook off time on a slower burning fuel than a higher one, white gas/vs kerosene.  

Tj

Originally Posted By ColtRifle: Whew.  There is a lot of info on kerosene/oil lamps!!   I have and use a propane mantle type lantern during power outages and it works really well.  Maybe I'll just get a couple more.  They put out a ton of light and are very inexpensive to run.  They are a little noisy though.   They put out some heat but virtually no odor.   I also have the propane refill adapter to refill a 1lb tank from a 20 lb tank so the cost per tank is around $0.50 or so.

The problem with propane lights of any sort is they put out a massive amount of CO which is orderless and colorless.  

This may not be a problem during an outage in summer with all the windows open but a major health concern in winter with the windows closed.  Major like being buried major.  

Tj

Its simply a matter of the compounds involved and oxygen to carbon ratio as it relates to how it burns.  

Propane does burn very clean compared to say gasoline but its relative.  Gas cooks stoves for example seldom ever vented but then were never intended to run all the time and in well ventilated areas.  They were also designed to burn a blue flame which is very hot assisting in better combustion.  

Where gas lights become a problem is in tight very well insulated places.  When gas lights were at their peak in home uses, the typical home had 10-12 ft ceilings and plank and plaster walls with zero insulation.  Windows were single pane and the home typically with numerous chimney's for fire places which added to the ventilation. Modern homes on the other hand are almost like a ship its so air tight in comparison.  

Unvented gas stoves are designed to burn very hot thus a more complete combustion.  Its the same principle as a catalytic gas stove.  Gas lights like a Coleman lantern are to maximize light output not heat.  Their CO output is very high compared to their heat output.  

Heat is a real key here especially in winter.  Staying warm becomes a priority and cutting back on the ventilation a way to do that.  There's always the temptation to turn the lantern on low and sleep with it on in your bedroom.  

The problem with Carbon Monoxide is it attaches to the blood cell which doesn't see it as anything other than C02 its natural exchange gas but it doesn't exchange readily taking up to a month to drop the CO.  

Even though CO output in a light is low compared to say a unvented yellow flame stove like gas logs, the cumulative effect of CO poisoning used daily is very high in confined areas.  CO poisoning can be gradual it not always one night then you are dead.  

In a pinch I wouldn't think twice about using a propane lantern for a few hours here and there, as a primary light over time, no way.  I've spent too much time insulating my house and I know I won't be flushing the CO out but building it up in my body.

Tj

Originally Posted By ColtRifle: Originally Posted By TomJefferson: Its simply a matter of the compounds involved and oxygen to carbon ratio as it relates to how it burns.   Propane does burn very clean compared to say gasoline but its relative.  Gas cooks stoves for example seldom ever vented but then were never intended to run all the time and in well ventilated areas.  They were also designed to burn a blue flame which is very hot assisting in better combustion.   Where gas lights become a problem is in tight very well insulated places.  When gas lights were at their peak in home uses, the typical home had 10-12 ft ceilings and plank and plaster walls with zero insulation.  Windows were single pane and the home typically with numerous chimney's for fire places which added to the ventilation. Modern homes on the other hand are almost like a ship its so air tight in comparison.   Unvented gas stoves are designed to burn very hot thus a more complete combustion.  Its the same principle as a catalytic gas stove.  Gas lights like a Coleman lantern are to maximize light output not heat.  Their CO output is very high compared to their heat output.   Heat is a real key here especially in winter.  Staying warm becomes a priority and cutting back on the ventilation a way to do that.  There's always the temptation to turn the lantern on low and sleep with it on in your bedroom.   The problem with Carbon Monoxide is it attaches to the blood cell which doesn't see it as anything other than C02 its natural exchange gas but it doesn't exchange readily taking up to a month to drop the CO.   Even though CO output in a light is low compared to say a unvented yellow flame stove like gas logs, the cumulative effect of CO poisoning used daily is very high in confined areas.  CO poisoning can be gradual it not always one night then you are dead.   In a pinch I wouldn't think twice about using a propane lantern for a few hours here and there, as a primary light over time, no way.  I've spent too much time insulating my house and I know I won't be flushing the CO out but building it up in my body. Tj Well I did a little test.  I put my camping Coleman propane lantern inside my truck which was inside my garage with all the windows and doors closed.  I turned on the lantern inside the truck with a CO detector sitting on the dash, just above the top of the lantern (where it vents).  I left it running for 90 mins and checked on it about every 15 mins but did not open any doors to the truck.  The CO level in the truck never rose at all.  I then checked the detector by starting the engine and placing it near the tailpipe.  It registered CO and sounded at the tailpipe within about 20 seconds.   So, my conclusion is that the propane lantern does not produce a significant amount of CO.  The truck cab got really hot inside but no buildup of CO. Due to the burning propane, it got hot inside the cab and I could feel that the humidity level had risen.  There was no real odor though. I can't compare it to a kerosene/lamp oil lantern because I do not have one.  I would really be curious to see if it would raise the CO level in a confined space.  Maybe someone here could test it. I'll try to get with the FD and borrow their high tech CO detector to see if I can get tiny readings that my homeowner grade detector can't read.   Still, after this test, I'm pretty confident that propane lanterns (at least the one I own) does not produce a significant level of CO. I don't know if you have much experience with propane lanterns but they get HOT.  Don't know if that would burn off CO or not but they certainly DON'T burn cool!! You seem to feel that kerosene/lamp oil lamps are ok to use inside but propane is not.  I really don't understand that because there is NO way that kerosene/lamp oil produces LESS CO than propane.  I am certain that propane produces some CO but unlikely to produce more than liquid fuels.  Definately not the "massive" amount of CO that you feel that propane lanterns produce. One day when I build my dream house, I"m going to put in a few gas lights in places throughout the house and tapped into the house propane supply.  That would give me a light source during power outages without using the generator for lights.

Actually I have three of them, have for years, and been my preference for years over the liquid fuel Coleman.  

Its simply not a preference for an indoor light.  

Heck, I even lived in a house with gas lights too, but then I have also known many people to get CO poisoning from continued long exposure to non-vented gas flames for years too.  

I'll take one more stab at this for the readers since you have already made up your mind.

The normal CO in air is approximately 1 ppm.  That's parts per million the standard for measuring CO.  The average house can be about 5 ppm.  Add a properly vented or indoor rated gas device like a heater it jumps up to 15 ppm on average.  

Its generally considered exposure of 70 ppm to 100 ppm for a short period can be detrimental to your health, therefore the UL standard for CO detectors is 70-100 ppms.  The exhaust on a car is about 7,000 ppms.

If you look at your test parameters if I read that right, one would assume its safe to be in a closed car in garage with a Coleman lantern going.  

Generally prolonged exposure to CO at levels of below 30 ppm is considered safe from detrimental health concerns for all people.  Prolonged exposure of levels above 30 ppm but less than 70 ppm, it really depends on the person.  Oddly enough an average US Co detector would go off outside in Mexico city.  I'm pretty certain those who live there have grown pretty use to those levels of CO but most Americans will be feeling pretty crappy due to the air quality in short order.  

Its good to keep in mind that not everyone who experiences CO poisoning is going to die.  Other symptoms are headaches, lethargy, joint pain, and shortness of breath.  What it comes down to is 0-15 ppms a person should have zero symptoms from CO, over 70 ppms a person will most likely have or even die, and in the range of 30-70 ppms depending on who you are you may have symptoms but not considered fatal.  Usually its tired all the time but in some cases frequent  head aches.  

Indoor gas lights are most often compared to standard wire filament electric bulb, the household bulb.  They are typically held to 70 watts as an industry standard or about 900 lumen.  The Coleman lantern is just about twice that output at 1600 lumens.  When looking at CO output, one should look at fuel efficiency to get there as well.  Propane is about 93K btu and Kerosene is 135K btu per gallon.  When you consider a Coleman propane lantern can put out 1600 lumen compared to around an avg of 120 lumen for a typical capillary lantern/lamp besides a heck of light output difference its both a heck of a fuel consumption and potential for CO difference.

This is why Coleman does not rate any of its flame lanterns for indoor use.  The litigation potential is simply too high for their products.

This is also why I go out my way to find single burner Coleman lanterns rather than dual burner.   The dual burners, we tend to turn down due to how much light they put out and that contributes due to lower heat how much CO they put out.  

I hope you can see a CO detector can save your life but as a measure of prolonged exposure potential to CO poisoning one needs to measure ppms. Kind of think of it as a smoker is use to higher CO levels and non-smoker smoking the first time kind of thing.  

Some of the better CO detectors have rough indicators on them of CO levels.  I personally think it is well worth the extra cost for one can simply by glancing at them regularly tell if their CO levels are increasing.  The nearer that bar is to the red the higher the potential for prolonged exposure health issues.  

Tj

Honestly mainly LED lanterns/lamps.  I don't break out the fuel stuff of any sort for indoors  unless the power is going out for a long period of time or heck we just want them for mood.

Its just so easy to flip a button and we haven't had a really long outage here since 1993.

Outdoors now, I use truck camping the Coleman propane, hiking LED mini lanterns, and on my boat a combination of LED lighting and storm lantern.  I fill the storm lantern with citronella which works great for bugs the way the boat is laid out.  During winter we use a yacht lamp with liquid paraffin down below for both lighting and heat.  Closed up in a watertight boat cabin you really learn to appreciate liquid paraffin over lamp oil and especially kerosene.  Funky mouth in the morning is not fun.

The oil lamps we break out mainly in winter just to get some time on them and set a nice room atmosphere.  I do use these almost exclusively in my camper but don't spend as much time in that since we built the house and cabin.   I have a wall hanger in there which puts out plenty of light to see in the camper and heats it up a tad in winter.    

Tj

Originally Posted By wshbrngr: Yes, the lampshades are paper/parchment. I see that aladdin still sells all the parts including the shades. (One of the shades has a water stain on it. What do you expect, they have been sitting for about 33yrs or so. Its funny, one of the boxes has water damage but the lampshade is fine (Thats the one I opened at the store), the other box looked fine, but after I pulled everything out at home, I found the stain. The box also says the lampshades are white, but they have yellowed a bit due to age. The lamps themselves look pristene. I figure they are not overly collectible being aluminum, not brass. But my wife has fallen in love with them. Just reading things on the net, I got the impression that they burn through fuel fast and the mantles need to be replaced frequently. Not so? ETA: Would the aladdin lamp oil be better than kerosene?

Yes, that model is the newer globe style wick similar to a Coleman lantern.  They are higher out put than flat or round conventional wick so will burn fuel pretty fast.  The wicks are slightly more durable than a Coleman wick but not much.  The good part is as a house lamp they won't be moved around as much as an outdoor lantern.  keeping spare wicks around is a good idea.  

You gotta steal at that price btw.  Normally if you can find them in new condition they are $75 or more and funky used ones are going for around $40.  

Congrats.


Just to regress a little on gas lamps.  I have no problems with indoor gas lamps they are not however an outdoor Coleman lantern.  The problem with Coleman lanterns is their wick.  Once you get a hole in them and irregular burning you get CO.  Most indoor gas lamps are designed for wall mounting.  This is to prevent moving reducing the chance of wick damage. If you Google, Gas Light Wick, you will see those are are not flat which you have to tie off and then expand by hand but a self contained unit already inflated so to say, that's to prevent wick damage.  

Another type fuel lamp I neglected to mention is the alcohol lamp.  These like the liquid paraffin yacht lamp were popular with sailors.  These days when we talk about alcohol lamps we think of chemistry class and heating not light.  Anyway, even when popular they were piss poor lights.  Their advantage of course was common fuel with stoves and the cleanest burning fuel there is.  I didn't mention them because other than a heating lamp, I've never seen one in person and if I did I wouldn't want it.  

Tj