Buying a pump isnt as simple as just buying a pump. You need to know your static water level, i.e. the level when the well isnt being drawn. This is your initial lift head. You then need to know your drawdown. This is the difference between your static level and your "producing" level, i.e. the level the water settles at when you are using the well.
From this information, you can look at a pump curve to determine your horsepower rating and flow rate. At that depth, it would not surprise me in the least for you to need a 1.5hp pump unless your water table is extremely shallow. Also, 10gpm refill rate does not mean 10gpm pump. Again, it would surprise me if you did not wind up with a 5gpm pump at that depth. Also, get a soft start 2 wire pump. They dont have the initial inrush and surge when they start. Makes them easier to power off a generator as they do not require the huge inrush of current to get the stack moving.
From there, you want the largest pressure tank you can possibly afford. This is not an area to spare expense, because doing so will cost you more in the long run. Cycles kill pumps, and that is a fact that well drillers take to the bank, which is why they always supply the smallest pressure tank possible. A submersible pump needs three things to ensure a long and healthy life: minimum, MINIMUM of 1 minute runtime (more is better), a shroud, and as few number of cycles as possible. With my new pressure tank set at 40/60, I get about 23 gallons of draw before the pump comes on. When it does, the pump runs for about 5 minutes to hit the pressure cutoff again. What this translates to is that my pump runs, on average, 5-6 times a day depending on usage. With your standard 5 gal draw pressure tank, that number ballons to 25-30 cycles a day.
As far as AC vs DC... It would be extremely hard IMO to pull this off with DC power just based on the items discussed. Not saying it couldnt be done, but its really going to depend on how deep your pockets are.