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Posted: 3/12/2024 6:59:14 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nikdfish: I did a revised version of the battery cap https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240312_195802331_PORTRAITb_jpg-3157221.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240312_200219485_PORTRAITb_jpg-3157222.JPG I went back & redid the F360 model so major elements are parameterized. I can plug in numbers for battery dimensions, gauge dimensions, switch hole diameter and desired circuit count and generate a model automatically that reflects those settings. The model above used about 100grams of material & was a 2.5hr print on the Max3. That is flipping awesome! |
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Posted: 3/12/2024 7:37:30 PM EDT
[#2]
Thanks!
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OH, USA
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Posted: 3/12/2024 8:10:28 PM EDT
[#3]
Springtime, and I need to hang my 160-10M dipole again.
Then get a line up in the front trees for a 60-30-17-12M loaded fan dipole. Need to get further along on my new operating desk. Local truckers figured out I know how to fix CBs so I've set up a temporary spot on the finished portion and am cranking stuff out. |
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Posted: 3/12/2024 10:08:38 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Shootindave]
[#4]
Working on something other than my roll up J pole for the monthly 2m simplex net. I am way north of everyone else, so beaming south is gunna help.
A buddy that is a painter gave me a 12' painters pole that the tip broke off of. Of course painted it tactical colors, because it was covered in other paint already and gross looking. Making a tape measure yagi. Adding tape on it because the damn thing already cut me once.  Attached File Attached FileStill figuring out how I want to terminate the coax....... I thought I had an extra bit of coax with BNC on it but it disappeared. |
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Posted: 3/13/2024 2:45:07 PM EDT
[#5]
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Posted: 3/13/2024 2:50:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: DarkLordVader]
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Shootindave: Ghetto tapetenna tuned right at the local simplex frequency https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/123862/IMG_5108_jpeg-3158042.JPG If you are fortunate enough to wake up in the rubble the morning after the apocalypse (typical Saturday morning back in college) you'll wish you had some more trashtenna experience. My ghetto VHF 2 elem yagi  Attached File |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 3/13/2024 2:51:59 PM EDT
[#7]
I just cut the three remaining branches that were in the way of me hoisting my 160-10M fan dipole up to its full height. Need to throw an anchor line at its east end then raise and secure.
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Posted: 3/13/2024 2:54:31 PM EDT
[#8]
 Attached FileMight redo the U bolt support for the painters pole. I didnt have a smaller one on hand to fit the PVC diameter well. |
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Posted: 3/13/2024 7:44:17 PM EDT
[#9]
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Posted: 3/14/2024 5:22:26 PM EDT
[#10]
Just received this yesterday.
 Attached FileNothing else included. Missing the power cord, microphone, any documentation, crystals, and the lamps knob. But otherwise in great shape. Peeked inside and it's pretty clean, and I got it from a guy on Ebay who's cleaning out his ham shack (about 40 other radios he's selling), so I'm assuming it's in good shape internally. Our club has a 6m AM net every Sunday; can't want to get on it using this rig! Anybody know of a parts source besides Ebay? |
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Posted: 3/14/2024 5:26:20 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By limaxray: Just received this yesterday. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/30315/20240313_181541v2_jpg-3158965.JPG Nothing else included. Missing the power cord, microphone, any documentation, crystals, and the lamps knob. But otherwise in great shape. Peeked inside and it's pretty clean, and I got it from a guy on Ebay who's cleaning out his ham shack (about 40 other radios he's selling), so I'm assuming it's in good shape internally. Our club has a 6m AM net every Sunday; can't want to get on it using this rig! Anybody know of a parts source besides Ebay? That looks super cool. There are some old radio heads on a local email reflector. If you want me to cross post I can. Just let me know. |
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Posted: 3/15/2024 2:18:30 AM EDT
[#12]
I bought one of the inovato boxes to use in the shack. The latest windows update really slowed down the old laptop I was using in the shack. I am getting tired of microsoft "improving" my computers with shit I didn't ask for. This should be an adventure. I am also considering installing Andy's Ham Radio Linux on an old laptop. Link Looks pretty painless, and it can't run any worse than it does now.
  Ham Radio & Linux - Andys Ham Radio Linux distribution for the desktop. |
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Posted: 3/15/2024 5:36:52 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Shootindave: Ghetto tapetenna tuned right at the local simplex frequency https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/123862/IMG_5108_jpeg-3158042.JPG It's funny, I built some roll-up j poles based on an ARFCOM thread back in 2011 and found them last week. Threw both of them on my Nano VNA-F yesterday and they were spot on the money. I had no clue just kind of followed the instructions on them and nailed it. Love my VNA's they make working on the antenna and tuning it so much easier. |
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Posted: 3/15/2024 9:29:19 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lorazepam: I bought one of the inovato boxes to use in the shack. The latest windows update really slowed down the old laptop I was using in the shack. I am getting tired of microsoft "improving" my computers with shit I didn't ask for. This should be an adventure. I am also considering installing Andy's Ham Radio Linux on an old laptop. Link Looks pretty painless, and it can't run any worse than it does now.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEd5uMoksa8 |
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Posted: 3/15/2024 10:01:46 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DarkLordVader: I think the latest Ubuntu/Mint would be better than a Ham Linux distro. Most of the HAM packages that I can think of: wsjtx, fldigi, gqrx, rtlsdr can be installed with a one liner 'apt install wsjtx'. Then you are getting a main-stream distro with more circulation, updates and security considerations. I don't know diddly or squat about linux, and this looks like a way to get started with it. |
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Posted: 3/15/2024 10:24:44 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Shootindave]
[#16]
Other than; sudo apt install xxxxxxxx, sudo apt update........
The only other thing I always need for a fresh Linux Mint machine is the command line to give my username comm access to the USB port. I always forget it and have to google. It would also be nice to remeber command prompt commands to view USB port info to see what is what. Honestly; a real simple, straight forward Linux thread would be nice. (Software engineers, read again SIMPLE lol) |
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Posted: 3/15/2024 11:02:41 AM EDT
[#17]
I would like to second the Linux thread. Start in crayon for the morons, and work from there. This video gives me confidence I can get this installed.
Ham Radio & Linux - Andys Ham Radio Linux distribution for the desktop. |
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Posted: 3/16/2024 3:47:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Shootindave]
[#18]
I spent an hour finding where the break on my coax was while truing to salvage as much as possible.
Not sure how it kinked so bad it broke and shorted out.  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/16/2024 3:52:09 PM EDT
[#19]
Also need to find an old 2 pin power cable for a Kenwood on the cheap. I see the ones on Ebay foe $30. This radio is barely worth $30.
Maybe find one at Hamvention.  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/16/2024 4:14:38 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Shootindave: Also need to find an old 2 pin power cable for a Kenwood on the cheap. I see the ones on Ebay foe $30. This radio is barely worth $30. Maybe find one at Hamvention. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/123862/IMG_5123_jpeg-3160724.JPG Can you get a measurement on the pin diameter? If you get lucky you could maybe build something with female bullet connectors. I see them in 3.5mm 3.9mm & 6.3mm. |
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Posted: 3/16/2024 8:41:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: nikdfish]
[#21]
Made some "handles" for the RT95/AT778UV radio format for uses other than mounted mobile. The same form factor gets used for VHF/UHF, GMRS & 10m versions.
Holes top & bottom allow for stacking. Although the handles provide some clearance for the bottom mounted speaker, legs can be used for better angle on table top. Angled spacers can be used to add angle for an upper stacked radio. Attachment is via M5 screws.  Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File3/17/2024 ETA: placed files on Printables. https://www.printables.com/model/809072-radio-handles-rt95-at778uv |
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Posted: 3/16/2024 9:57:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Shootindave]
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nikdfish: Can you get a measurement on the pin diameter? If you get lucky you could maybe build something with female bullet connectors. I see them in 3.5mm 3.9mm & 6.3mm. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nikdfish: Originally Posted By Shootindave: Also need to find an old 2 pin power cable for a Kenwood on the cheap. I see the ones on Ebay foe $30. This radio is barely worth $30. Maybe find one at Hamvention. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/123862/IMG_5123_jpeg-3160724.JPG Can you get a measurement on the pin diameter? If you get lucky you could maybe build something with female bullet connectors. I see them in 3.5mm 3.9mm & 6.3mm. I will see if there is a way to get a measurement with my calipers. ------------- Made a couple prototypes today with scrap metal. The ground spike vertical mount is going to get a small magnet as well. More on that to come later. Also made a drive-over mast stand.  Attached FileEta; into the paint booth  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/17/2024 1:10:41 AM EDT
[#23]
@Colt653
The idea is to use a strong magnet to attach something like a tape measure. I think you said you had had some problems with continuity between the tape and lip?? This tape measure seems to be fine. Good contact between magnet, coax ground, lip and tape.  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 3/17/2024 1:43:30 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Shootindave: Also need to find an old 2 pin power cable for a Kenwood on the cheap. I see the ones on Ebay foe $30. This radio is barely worth $30. Maybe find one at Hamvention. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/123862/IMG_5123_jpeg-3160724.JPG Might find one here. |
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Posted: 3/17/2024 1:46:32 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Shootindave: @Colt653 The idea is to use a strong magnet to attach something like a tape measure. I think you said you had had some problems with continuity between the tape and lip?? This tape measure seems to be fine. Good contact between magnet, coax ground, lip and tape. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/123862/IMG_5131_jpeg-3161205.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/123862/IMG_5129_jpeg-3161206.JPG I sanded off some paint, and soldered wires to my counterpoise tapes. I got bright yellow 10m tapes at harbor freight for around 4 bucks each. |
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Posted: 3/17/2024 1:55:45 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Shootindave: I spent an hour finding where the break on my coax was while truing to salvage as much as possible. Not sure how it kinked so bad it broke and shorted out. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/123862/IMG_5122_jpeg-3160717.JPG What you needed there is something called a Time Domain Reflectometer. They're kinda scarce gizmos floating around as standalone units, but some of the antenna analyzers can do it. I have a Rig Expert that can do TDR when under computer control with their software. TDR gives you a display which is generally a graph of impedance per distance. So if you know the velocity factor of the cable, you'd know how many feet away from the meter is the problem with the cable which would show up as an impedance discontinuity. It's a really cool tool for troubleshooting. |
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Posted: 3/17/2024 9:42:25 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Shootindave: @Colt653 The idea is to use a strong magnet to attach something like a tape measure. I think you said you had had some problems with continuity between the tape and lip?? This tape measure seems to be fine. Good contact between magnet, coax ground, lip and tape. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/123862/IMG_5131_jpeg-3161205.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/123862/IMG_5129_jpeg-3161206.JPG @Shootindave Those tape measure lips are rivet'd loose by design. I hammered mine tight with a small hammer and anvil I also drilled holes in the yellow tape area and bolted them through the WRC legs. That worked well, but was a hassle to take apart. I ended up using automotive spade and ring connectors on them with a bit of wire. This made it easy to setup and takedown. the short green jumper wires stay attached to the base and tape measures 1000 words . . . .  
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Posted: 3/18/2024 10:15:29 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Mach]
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DarkLordVader: An awesome directional UHF antenna made from mostly junk laying around. Work quite well. I made a contact on a repeater 74 miles away from indoors through several walls. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/322769/UHF_Corner-sm_jpg-3146333.JPG back in my traveling days before most hotels had free wifi and most people with wifi left the wifi open I built an antenna just like that for 2.4 ghz and used apartment and house wifi from my hotel room, in minecraft |
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Posted: 3/18/2024 10:30:22 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Shootindave: Ground straps on the car day. All doors, hatch, hood, rear part of the exhaust. Antenna mounts tied in. Put the G90 back in and remounted the tarheel. Worked a couple POTA on 20M with good signal reports. I think I will need to attach the front section of the exhaust to get rid of the last of the ignition noise. Or maybe choke the coax and power cables. Need to figure out how to mount my speaker so it isnt a mess of wires everywhere. it is my opinion backed by nothing but experience, is that it isnt the amount of metal on the vehicle that is bonded but rather it is the surface area of the vehicle connected to antenna ground that is closest to the road. The reasoning being that the reason HF antennas work on vehicles is that the antenna ground is capacitively coupled to the earth ground . the larger the surface area of the vehicle side capacitor plate and the shorter the distance to the road / dirt the higher the efficiency of the coupling. the shorter the distance between 2 capacitor plates the stronger the electric field. The larger the plates the stronger the electric field. The stronger the electric field the more efficient ( less signal loss ) the connection to earth ground. So bonding the exhaust and the frame / unibody makes a big difference. Bonding the doors and the hood, not so much |
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Posted: 3/18/2024 10:37:10 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mach: back in my traveling days before most hotels had free wifi and most people with wifi left the wifi open I built an antenna just like that for 2.4 ghz and used apartment and house wifi from my hotel room, in minecraft Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mach: Originally Posted By DarkLordVader: An awesome directional UHF antenna made from mostly junk laying around. Work quite well. I made a contact on a repeater 74 miles away from indoors through several walls. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/322769/UHF_Corner-sm_jpg-3146333.JPG Last power outage I had, I was using the phone hotspot for internet. I set the phone upside down (antenna is on the bottom in my phone) in a stand inside the reflector box and targeted my tower. I added 1-2 signal bars and had a significant gain from internet speed tests. |
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Posted: 3/18/2024 10:53:26 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mach: it is my opinion backed by nothing but experience, is that it isnt the amount of metal on the vehicle that is bonded but rather it is the surface area of the vehicle connected to antenna ground that is closest to the road. The reasoning being that the reason HF antennas work on vehicles is that the antenna ground is capacitively coupled to the earth ground . the larger the surface area of the vehicle side capacitor plate and the shorter the distance to the road / dirt the higher the efficiency of the coupling. the shorter the distance between 2 capacitor plates the stronger the electric field. The larger the plates the stronger the electric field. The stronger the electric field the more efficient ( less signal loss ) the connection to earth ground. So bonding the exhaust and the frame / unibody makes a big difference. Bonding the doors and the hood, not so much Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mach: Originally Posted By Shootindave: Ground straps on the car day. All doors, hatch, hood, rear part of the exhaust. Antenna mounts tied in. Put the G90 back in and remounted the tarheel. Worked a couple POTA on 20M with good signal reports. I think I will need to attach the front section of the exhaust to get rid of the last of the ignition noise. Or maybe choke the coax and power cables. Need to figure out how to mount my speaker so it isnt a mess of wires everywhere. it is my opinion backed by nothing but experience, is that it isnt the amount of metal on the vehicle that is bonded but rather it is the surface area of the vehicle connected to antenna ground that is closest to the road. The reasoning being that the reason HF antennas work on vehicles is that the antenna ground is capacitively coupled to the earth ground . the larger the surface area of the vehicle side capacitor plate and the shorter the distance to the road / dirt the higher the efficiency of the coupling. the shorter the distance between 2 capacitor plates the stronger the electric field. The larger the plates the stronger the electric field. The stronger the electric field the more efficient ( less signal loss ) the connection to earth ground. So bonding the exhaust and the frame / unibody makes a big difference. Bonding the doors and the hood, not so much I am trying to get rid of ignition noise on the radio at this point. |
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Posted: 3/18/2024 11:23:11 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Shootindave: I am trying to get rid of ignition noise on the radio at this point. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Shootindave: Originally Posted By Mach: Originally Posted By Shootindave: Ground straps on the car day. All doors, hatch, hood, rear part of the exhaust. Antenna mounts tied in. Put the G90 back in and remounted the tarheel. Worked a couple POTA on 20M with good signal reports. I think I will need to attach the front section of the exhaust to get rid of the last of the ignition noise. Or maybe choke the coax and power cables. Need to figure out how to mount my speaker so it isnt a mess of wires everywhere. it is my opinion backed by nothing but experience, is that it isnt the amount of metal on the vehicle that is bonded but rather it is the surface area of the vehicle connected to antenna ground that is closest to the road. The reasoning being that the reason HF antennas work on vehicles is that the antenna ground is capacitively coupled to the earth ground . the larger the surface area of the vehicle side capacitor plate and the shorter the distance to the road / dirt the higher the efficiency of the coupling. the shorter the distance between 2 capacitor plates the stronger the electric field. The larger the plates the stronger the electric field. The stronger the electric field the more efficient ( less signal loss ) the connection to earth ground. So bonding the exhaust and the frame / unibody makes a big difference. Bonding the doors and the hood, not so much I am trying to get rid of ignition noise on the radio at this point. I am interested in what works for that. I would also like to get rid of ignition noise |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 3/18/2024 2:00:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: AnalogKid]
[#33]
WRT the 2-pin power connector shown earlier in thread:
Universal Radio mic connectors Yes, they're still in business. Just got a knob for one of my JRC receivers (which I never figured I'd find) plus the latest copy of Shortwave Receivers - Past and Present. Call Barb up at their listed number and place your order. That damn book is going to co$t me dearly. |
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Posted: 3/18/2024 2:19:40 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mach: I am interested in what works for that. I would also like to get rid of ignition noise |
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Posted: 3/18/2024 5:38:18 PM EDT
[#35]
Building an enclosure with a DMR hotspot and Meshtastic radio to place behind the seat in my truck. I'll clean it up inside once I have everything together and working.
 Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 3/18/2024 10:23:05 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nikdfish: I did a revised version of the battery cap https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240312_195802331_PORTRAITb_jpg-3157221.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240312_200219485_PORTRAITb_jpg-3157222.JPG I went back & redid the F360 model so major elements are parameterized. I can plug in numbers for battery dimensions, gauge dimensions, switch hole diameter and desired circuit count and generate a model automatically that reflects those settings. The model above used about 100grams of material & was a 2.5hr print on the Max3. ETA: Put file & F360 source on Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/804277-enhanced-lifepo4-battery-cap That is really neat! I would try to incorporate a sleeve for a velcro strap to hold it in place, or one of those re-usable zip ties. Though I guess the servo tape is good since you aren't going to need to access anything inside often. Overall it's more compact than the one I built using a plastic ammo can. |
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Posted: 3/18/2024 10:32:12 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mach: back in my traveling days before most hotels had free wifi and most people with wifi left the wifi open I built an antenna just like that for 2.4 ghz and used apartment and house wifi from my hotel room, in minecraft I remember there was a whole "thing" around this called "Wardriving". |
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Posted: 3/19/2024 7:19:28 PM EDT
[Last Edit: nikdfish]
[#38]
Did another set of "handles", this time for an Anytone AT-5555N II all-mode 10m.
 Attached File Attached FileSTL's & F360 source on Printables. https://www.printables.com/model/811749-at-5555n-ii-handles Printed in ASA with 0.3mm layers and a 0.6mm nozzle, using about 120g of material. About 3 hours print time on the XMax3. |
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Posted: 3/20/2024 9:37:54 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nikdfish: Did another set of "handles", this time for an Anytone AT-5555N II all-mode 10m. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240319_225745416_PORTRAITB_jpg-3163896.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240319_225802035_PORTRAITB_jpg-3163897.JPG STL's & F360 source on Printables. https://www.printables.com/model/811749-at-5555n-ii-handles Printed in ASA with 0.3mm layers and a 0.6mm nozzle, using about 120g of material. About 3 hours print time on the XMax3. Those are super slick. I need a 3D printer! |
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Posted: 3/23/2024 5:27:13 PM EDT
[Last Edit: nikdfish]
[#40]
I've done a few Anderson PowerPole distribution boxes in the past, but none were what you would call "low profile" .
 Attached File Attached FileAfter seeing some discussion referencing low profile implementations, I thought I'd try to put something together. I took a different approach this time & did something modular. Basically a housing with slots & the slots can hold a PowerPole pair, a fuse holder, or a blank place holder. A slip lid holds the modules in place after assembly. I did both a single sided version & a double sided version. This is the Fusion 360 model, with 4 slots per side specified.  Attached FileHere's a single sided test print with unwired modules in place.  Attached Fileand with the lid in place  Attached FileLike the last few models, the model is parameterized so that a new model can be produced just by changing the value of the "circuit_n" parameter which controls the number of slots per side. Everything adjusts automatically to fit. Being modular, you can choose whether or not to include fuses, how many & where they get placed in relation to the powerpole pairs. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out so far. ETA pics of double wide 4 slot sample print  Attached File Attached FileETA Files now on Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/816564-anderson-powerpole-modular-flat-distribution-box |
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Posted: 3/23/2024 7:34:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: K9-Bob]
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 3one5: Building an enclosure with a DMR hotspot and Meshtastic radio to place behind the seat in my truck. I'll clean it up inside once I have everything together and working. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/13223/IMG_2097_jpeg-3162970.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/13223/IMG_2096_jpeg-3162971.JPG You have "real skills"...and your MMDVM Go-Box is very impressive, especially since you are digital radio newbie. Outstanding work!!!! 
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Posted: 3/24/2024 6:33:33 PM EDT
[#42]
Making brackets to add 12m and 17m to the 6BTV. And a second 80M resonator with a wire to tune into 160M FT8
 Attached File |
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Posted: 3/26/2024 10:46:24 AM EDT
[Last Edit: nikdfish]
[#43]
Made a change to the source code for the modular Anderson PowerPole distribution box. Added the option to specify a stack count as well as a slot count. Still using the same modules & basic design.
4 slots stack=1  Attached File4 slots stack=2  Attached File4 slots stack=3  Attached FileI haven't published the source or samples yet, but I was thinking it might be handy for desk use. The single sided box could be used both as seen, with ports on the side, or rotated 90 degrees with ports on the top like the traditional versions. ETA - I posted the source & sample STL files on Printables. https://www.printables.com/model/835926-high-density-anderson-powerpole-distribution |
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Posted: 3/26/2024 3:45:59 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cordwood: What brand of vehicle? I have a ford and it is the fuel pump that whines. Try having the radio powered up with engine off and just turn the key until you hear the fuel pump kick on. Ford graciously hid the fuel pump inside a housing on the fuel tank, such that you have to uninstall the fuel tank in order to get access to the fuel pump. Option two is just live with it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cordwood: Originally Posted By Mach: I am interested in what works for that. I would also like to get rid of ignition noise Toyota Tundra. I only get the ignition noise when I accelerate. |
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Posted: 3/26/2024 6:40:55 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lorazepam: I bought one of the inovato boxes to use in the shack. The latest windows update really slowed down the old laptop I was using in the shack. I am getting tired of microsoft "improving" my computers with shit I didn't ask for. This should be an adventure. I am also considering installing Andy's Ham Radio Linux on an old laptop. Link Looks pretty painless, and it can't run any worse than it does now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEd5uMoksa8Cool! I loaded Andy's on my old ASUS X55 and it seems to run fine. I do quite a bit of ham stuff with an old desktop tower running Mint 21.1 and some randomly installed apps. I didn't discover ham-centric distros and install scripts until later in the game. |
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Posted: 3/26/2024 6:43:11 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nikdfish: Made some "handles" for the RT95/AT778UV radio format for uses other than mounted mobile. The same form factor gets used for VHF/UHF, GMRS & 10m versions. Holes top & bottom allow for stacking. Although the handles provide some clearance for the bottom mounted speaker, legs can be used for better angle on table top. Angled spacers can be used to add angle for an upper stacked radio. Attachment is via M5 screws. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240317_002953631_PORTRAITb_jpg-3160987.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240317_002840250_PORTRAITb_jpg-3160988.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240317_002813207_PORTRAITb_jpg-3160990.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240317_002740538_PORTRAITb_jpg-3160991.JPG 3/17/2024 ETA: placed files on Printables. https://www.printables.com/model/809072-radio-handles-rt95-at778uv I've got the Anytone version of that right beside me. Works like a champ. |
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Posted: 3/26/2024 6:54:20 PM EDT
[#47]
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Posted: 3/29/2024 4:45:21 PM EDT
[#48]
I just noticed my EFHW wire is down the morning. It snowed overnight so everything is a muddy mess, so it will have to wait a few days before I can investigate the cause. It could be wind, deer, chickens or vandals. Or maybe just a broken wire at the apex of the inverted V.
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Posted: 3/31/2024 8:08:14 PM EDT
[#49]
I have a G90 coming in shortly & have started laying out "handles"/table stand for it. It will replace the metal handles, attaching at the same screw locations. Besides adding an upward angle, it will provide a 120mm fan underneath and a connections box with fuse & anderson powerpole connectors as well as a 5A USB power supply (for RPi & display) and a Mini Tamiya connector for radio power. That's the intent, anyway. We'll see how it works out. Four main sections, left & right handles, fan mount and power box. The power box being based on the low profile anderson powerpole box I did a bit ago.
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Posted: 4/2/2024 4:49:25 PM EDT
[#50]
Nice cloudless sky and weather in the high 50's here so I set about fixing my EFHW.
It had come unclipped from the plastic S-carabiner on my telescoping flagpole support. I used a painters pole and a modified plastic fork to free the wire from a dead tree under the antenna pole. I haven't cut down the tree because I like the way it looks. I've actually got a bunch of photos of it. Anyhow the fork worked and the antenna is back up. I guess this qualifies as a "small" project.  Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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