My 1960s vintage Puma White Hunter knife has become too expensive to use in the field.  In fact, I >>found<< my Puma White Hunter lying on the ground while out for a walk in the fields in the late 60s.

Requirements:

Budget: somewhere between $100 and $200 dollars.  The lower, the better, but read on, please.  I'm NOT made of money, and this will hopefully be a one-time purchase.  Mfr Warranty a big plus.  

Must be useful, in the field, as a general-purpose knife, including skinning/dressing game.  Don't need a machete, nor need a dagger.

I will likely have either a decent Swiss Army Knife, or a decent Multitool; perhaps both.

High quality, hopefully moderate cost; buying a gently used knife is fine, as I can sharpen blades, and hopefully replace damaged/worn scabbards.

Much prefer synthetic scabbards to leather scabbards.  Buying an add-on syn and/or kydex scabbard is a possiblility for the right knife.

Weight and bulk considerations taken into account, I believe I'll want a blade of about 6" or so, but open to suggestion.   A guard on the handle that prevents the hand from slipping and contacting the blade is a requirement.  I have very nice hatchets and saws for other work.  I don't plan on "batoning" such a knife, but such might be necessary in an emergency.

I'm aware of the trade-off between rust-resistant and carbon steel blades.  Ideally the blade should be extremely durable and capable of being sharpened to a "decent" edge using small sharpening tools while in the field.  I have very nice sharpening tools back home.

I'm also aware of blade metal/thickness/configuration as regards overall weight.  Like most people, I'd prefer the lighter knife to the heavier one, all other things being equal.  That's a very demanding request.

FWIW, some of the high-end Mora knves look interesting.

I know I'll get a zillion different suggestions.  Preference given to owners of multiple different knives meeting my requirements, and their personal comparisons.

It is also useful to get intel about knives/mfrs to avoid.

ETA: Choice made; Puma SGB Buffalo Hunter from Amazon for $80.

You are limiting yourself as the optimum skinner is not the same as what you want for making tent stakes, etc.  Nor is it good for caping the head.

Look at the offerings by Knives of Alaska.

So, given the range of you budget it sounds like your looking for a higher end knife vs just using a basic buck knife which make excellent hunting blades for processing game.  Not a huge fan of Buck blades for general bushcraft or camping use.  

The first blade that comes to my mind is a Fallkniven F1.  I have two, got both on the used market, but even new is at the upper end of your budget.

I have a small fleet of Mora blades and will always recommend them if you only want to spend a few bucks.  The basic 511 will get most done, for those that need doing in the outdoors/ camping/ etc but the carbon steel scandi grind is not the best for processing game as it dulls faster than say the harder stainless that Buck use on their hunting specific blades.

My current go to specific game processing and hunting blade is a Havalon Piranta and I can't recommend them enough for specifically processing game.  With that said it is a specific use knife for that specific purpose, so I usually toss a Mora or SAK in my pack to pair with it.

I can take some pictures of what I have, have used, and recommend if you like?

I should have added to OP that I will likely have either a decent Swiss Army Knife, or a decent Multitool.

Thanks for reminding me of my omission!

TYVM for specific and helpful comments.  No need for pix, as such can be found on the web, and less hassle for you.

I added the statement to OP that I would likely be carrying a "Decent" SAK and/or a "Decent" multitool.  I have come to appreciate the user-configurability of some SOG Multitools.  Quality of SOG multitools seems to be at least "Good", and the ability of the user to replace a damaged blade (on-site) and to exchange the damaged blade via the mfr for a new one is valuable, IMHO.   Good stuff.  

I have many different Moras, some fairly "High-end".  I have a Cold Steel SRK which would seem to serve my purposes, If I'm not mistaken.
Not so sure it is as good a "skinning" knife is the Puma White Hunter, which seems designed as being a very stout and effective "Field Knife"

Your opinion?

Old Timer Deer Slayer. I have had mine for 40 years with no problems. It holds an edge well.

Links to currently available version appreciated.  It's understood that modern versions of your "elderly" knife might significantly vary from modern versionn of your knife.

I have knives and tools whose "modern" counterparts are not equal to their older counterparts.

From Mr. Kephart, who'd know much more about it than I

"Woodcraft and Camping"
"On the subject of hunting knives I am tempted to be diffuse. In my green and callow days (perhaps not yet over) I tried nearly everything in the knife line from a shoemaker's skiver to a machete, and I had knives made to order. The conventional hunting knife is, or was until quite recently, of the familiar dime-novel pattern invented by Colonel Bowie. Such a knife is too thick and clumsy to whittle with, much too thick for a good skinning knife, and too sharply pointed to cook and eat with. It is always tempered too hard. When put to the rough service for which it is supposed to be intended, as in cutting through the ossified false ribs of an old buck, it is an even bet that out will come a nick as big as a saw-tooth   and Sheridan forty miles from a grindstone! Such a knife is shaped expressly for stabbing, which is about the very last thing that a woodsman ever has occasion to do, our lamented grandmothers to the contrary notwithstanding."
A camper has use for a common-sense sheath-knife, sometimes for dressing big game, but oftener for such homely work as cutting sticks, slicing bacon, and frying "spuds." For such purposes a rather thin, broadpointed blade is required, and it need not be over four or five inches long. Nothing is gained by a longer blade, and it would be in one's way every time he sat down. Such a knife, bearing the marks of hard usage, lies before me. Its blade and handle are each 4 1/2 inches long, the blade being 1 inch wide, 1/8th inch thick on the back, broad pointed, and continued through the handle as a hasp and riveted to it. It is tempered hard enough to cut green hardwood sticks, but soft enough so that when it strikes a knot or bone it will, if anything, turn rather than nick; then a whetstone soon puts it in order. The Abyssinians have a saying, "If a sword bends, we can straighten it; but if it breaks, who can mend it? " So with a knife or hatchet.
The handle of this knife is of oval cross-section, long enough to give a good grip for the whole hand, and with no sharp edges to blister one's hand. It has a 1/4 inch knob behind the cutting edge as a guard, but there is no guard on the back, for it would be useless and in the way. The handle is of light but hard wood, 3/4 inch thick at the butt and tapering to 1/2 inch forward, so as to enter the sheath easily and grip it tightly. If it were heavy it would make the knife drop out when I stooped over. The sheath has a slit frog binding tightly on the belt, and keeping the knife well up on my side. This knife weighs only 4 ounces. It was made by a country blacksmith, and is one of the homeliest things I ever saw; but it has outlived in my affections the score of other knives that I have used in competition with it, and has done more work than all of them put together."


3V has outstanding toughness, good edge retention, but is only semi-stainless. Micarta is my favorite handle material for user knives. $50 over budget however it fits the bill including the guard. I do not have this exact knife (I have a smaller one I finished from a blade blank Kuraki made for me). I only see them in stock at Lamnia, which is in Finland, but they ship free and are well trusted.



https://www.lamnia.com/en/p/52734/knives/bark-river-kephart-3v

Sounds to me like you are "suggesting" a knife like the Cold Steel SRK, which I already own, or perhaps some of the "relatively" expensive "high-end" Moras, which I also own.

My fault for not mentioning my "other" owned knives in my OP, and appreciate your very informed comments.

FWIW, I have added micarta grips onto some semi-custom knives.  Mostly on account of innate Micarta durability, and partly on account of Micarta's scant cost.

The antler/bone grips on my ancient Puma White Hunter knife are excellent, natural grips; one is not likely to see natural antler/bone grips on modern Puma knives, except with a huge increase in price.

The metal handle on my Gerber Mk II "Survival Knife" is a drawback, IMHO.  It's a very well-made, and wicked-looking knife.  Many folks consider it "collectible" perhaps beyond its' innate value.  IMHO, the Applegate/Fairbairn dagger pictured above is superior, at less cost.  YMMV.

Thanks for your very valuable quotes and personal comments!

I use an Outdoor Edge Swing blade. Probably wouldn't buy another, I really don't use the swing part as I don't use the gutting blade. I'd be just as happy with one of their fixes blades. That handles the field dressing and skinning. Dexter Russell blades handle the deboning and final processing.

My opinion, worth what you paid for it..... You can get highly functional steel pretty reasonably priced if you don't need good names or fancy handles.

Edit: See you also want it to be a general field knive, I think a fixed blade outdoor Edge would work but they also make ones with interchangeable blades which might be more well rounded

Not so sure if the "swing-blade" feature.  Call me cautious of such implements.

It seems highly dependent on the pivot-point of such tools, and I'm not convinced about that aspect.  I retain an open mind, and thanks for the suggestion!

Agreed that quality items are dependent on the quality of their steel, and not on the BS wooden grips.

On a different subject, I've always been impressed by "some" SOG Multitools to have some degree of "impliment-changing" within the tool, and the User to have spare Impliments on-hand so as to instantly replace broken impliments, and send broken impliments back to mfr for warranty replacement.

I sure do like my SwissTools and other very high quality multitools from other mfrs.  OTOH, no multitool offers the User the opportunity to replace broken impliments (on-site) as do "some" of "some" SOG tools.

NOT a SOG fanboi by any means.  Just speaking my mind, and no commercial interest.

Spend $17 on This first.

I have a lot of knives and almost always grab a companion or pro s.

I have never put hands on or used a puma white hunter or cold steel srk so i wouldn't be any help there.

I see some other posters mentioned the kephart design, which I also like.  I have the low-end Ontario version of the kephart and haven't had the chance to use it much yet but really like the basic old school feel.  This Ontario has a very thin blade but is good for most camp chores probably game as well.  Pared with an axe or hatchet I am sure it would serve well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0853C6SPT?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I have plenty of other blades I like to use in the outdoors, one of my favorites is the old school Ontario Air Force Survival Knife, but it really isn't good at much other then I just like it.

With that said I still have a soft spot for basic Mora blades, and they end up being my go-to for camping more often than not.  The highest end Mora I have is the Mora Kansbol.  I also have a few of the old classic #1 & #2 which sadly have been discontinued.  I remember when I first learned what a Mora Clipper was well over a decade ago, still have that "OG" Mora in my blade box.

In my first post I recommended the Fallkniven F1, and when I think about it it's almost a high-end combination of all the blades I like and handles amazing.  Only problem for me is I tent to shy away from grabbing the high dollar blades and end up back to a Mora 511 as a jack of all trades.  

I recall well when Gerber knives were all high quality - it has been good to see them coming back around in that direction. I still have a Kitchen knife from the 80's with a metal handle that the coating has come off of in one spot.

I have used natural materials on all the ones I've finished. I was gifted a piece of a tooth that was harvested in the 1930's I used for the mini-Kep.


I guess though I will add I do see them as quite distinctly different. As far as the Mora, I have one of the nice ones and it is scandi ground and so is thick behind the edge. It is not very slicey like a Kep, and I'd not really want to process an animal with it but sure it could be done. Different belly and tip. The SRK is a clip point (I suppose, don't have one) that appears hollow ground and is I'm sure excellent and probably performs many tasks similarly well. Still, relatively different from a spear point flat ground Kep, and certainly a very different look and aesthetic. I totally get it if they aren't what you're going for, but Kepharts are there own sort of thing still.

I have a Mora Morakniv Garberg Full Tang Fixed Blade Knife with Carbon Steel Blade which "seems" to be suitable, but not so sure in comparison with "Hunting/Skinning" knife as compared with Puma White Hunter.

My Puma White Hunter, being of similar, 1960s vintage, looks like the one I found on the ground:https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-puma-white-hunter-6384-pre-64-rare-knife  

The reverse of the head of the Puma WH has a wide flat that is almost perfect for batoning.  The "narrow" portion of the reverse of the blade is not sharpened at all, although it seems to appear so in the pix.  The short section of saw teeth near base of blade is so fine that a Jeweler's file or a very sharp triangular stone is required to sharpen the teeth.   Full-tang, of couurse; I've seen variants without the expensive stag antler handles.

Interesting and unique looking knife. I don't think your going to get close to that style in your budget, but maybe some sort of skinner would work.

An "interesting and unique" knife is only the beginning of it.  I don't claim that Puma "White Hunter" is optimal knife for field use, but maybe close.

What I DO say is that old, serial-numbered Puma WH knife is too expensive for field use, hence this thread.  Same thing for serial-numbered Gerber Mk II "Survival Knife".

I got lucky in finding/buying some items long ago.  Well, maybe a little fore-thought, I was not Entirely stupid back then.

Asking modern-day advice on modern-day substitutes.

An "interesting and unique" knife is only the beginning of it.  I don't claim that Puma "White Hunter" is optimal knife for field use, but maybe close.

What I DO say is that old, serial-numbered Puma WH knife is too expensive for field use, hence this thread.  Same thing for serial-numbered Gerber Mk II "Survival Knife".

I got lucky in finding/buying some items long ago.  Well, maybe a little fore-thought, I was not Entirely stupid back then.

Asking modern-day advice on modern-day substitutes.

Thats defiantly going to be a hard style to find in a modern offering that isn't knock of junk.  I really like the look!

The only thing I have even close to that old school hunter knife style is an Old Timer 15OT Deerslayer 10.5in...  I would not rate it at as solid use field or camp knife, for me with that one its more about the style and I use it as I would a folder when it's on my belt.  It has a plastic handle feel vs solid polymer which is a bit of a turn off for me.

As of Sept 1st us NY civilians can't CCW anywhere legally (instant felon in every place which has been deemed sensitive) I will probably toss that Old Timer back on my belt.  I think it portrays more of a country boy hunter knife than an ontario SP2, or kabar, or ESEE style tacticool blade.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IE7QY6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Have you taken a look at a "tracker" style knife?  A higher end one might scratch your itch?  I have never tried a nice one.  I think my next blade will be a mid level quality tracker just because.  

Also where is @Rock6 in this thread?  I need some knife porn pics!

I'm spending way too much on a Luke Combs and Cody Johnson concert right now

Raf has some pretty broad requiredments...so have I, I'm still trying to fimd the right one



ROCK6

I've really grown to like my Cold Steel Roach Belly
Although I wouldn't consider it a general purpose knife, it's great for skinning, shaving wood, and really 90% of cutting tasks I've encountered.
Paired with a much larger blade for hacking (I keep one on my pack), the roach belly is a great little knife that you'll always have on you.

Hope that helps.

And the best part is it's like a $15 knife. Abuse the crap out of it and if/when it breaks get a new one!

Wow!

Nicest collection I've ever seen.

I normally don't like coated blades, but I picked up this KaBar Harpoon and have been quite impressed...

Harpoon

ROCK6

I just got 5 of these Cold Steel Pendleton Hunter Fixed Blade Knife with Sheaths, today and sharp as hell ans also use victorinox 3-1/4 paring knives. Have most of the replaceable blade knives that are great too.

@ROCK6, You're about 200% above the average person when it comes to gear.

The White hunter Is patterned After the old german army pilot survival/hunting knife. Cheap crappy copies are still available, Linder makes the "White horse" for 150$, but It Is 440a steel, i think you can buy Better for the price

Overall shape and size of your puma May Be similar to the spanish Cudeman Boina Verde Cadete, there are many variants, also with kydex sheath and micarta grips.

Popular solid field knives these days are the finnish Terava marketed by Varusteleka . They have a Scandinavian grind Blade however, not everyone likes It for animals processing. I think the jaakaripuukko 140 would be the One for you.

I chalk it up to a hobby that started around 10 years old and turned into a career...

Just some additional observations.

I see the definition as a belt knife. You don't want a half inch thick suvival knife, you want a field knife that will do the majority of cutting, skinning, camp chores, etc...and you will likely have an axe and/or a saw for the larger tasks.

I can't say for all manufactured knives, but I have had some custom knives that were less than 1/8" but extremely tough.

I like Scandi grinds, but not for a universal utility edge.

I have always liked higher carbon steel and as you mentioned there are advantages and disadvantages to various stainless steels.

Most of my blades for this purpose are drop point, or clip point. The Nessmuk style isn't a bad option either.

The sheath/carry sytem matters as does how you plan to carry it. This is what I would consider a belt knife, and I like them between 4 and 5 inch blades, but rarely blades over 6 inches on the belt. They get a little cumbersome and more often in the way for me if too long.

ROCK6

Check out some of the new offerings from ESEE.  They moved from survival to more hunting/bushcraft styles & nothing beats their no questions asked warranty.

I have an "Expat Libertariat" and fire tool from them.  Love their stuff but never ended up pulling the trigger on any of their regular blades.

I don't have any of their larger blades, but a couple of ESEE 4's, and a few ESEE 3's (a great belt EDC blade). What I like is the full flat grind and thinners blades, still tough, but excellent cutting tools. I don't care too much for coated blades (I do have an uncoated 1095 model), but it can be removed if it bothers you too much.

Good company, great warranty, and solid cutting tools with good sheath systems.  Some don't care for the large choil, but it's more a preference than major functional issue.

ROCK6

@raf


puma makes the SGB Hunter’s Friend knife that’s pretty good. It has a stag handle and would compliment your White Hunter pretty well.
I bought my son one several years ago for about $150 and it has served him well.


The sheath is leather though.

After carefully reading all the posts and links above, I ordered a Puma SGB Buffalo Hunter from Amazon for $80.

It seems to meet my requirements, what with German-made, decent quality components, although "assembled" at some inderterminate place.

Scabbard seems to be questionable, and perhaps I can practice making a Kydex knife scabbard for it.  I would never subject any sort of fine/collectible knife to a the finish-damage a kydex scabbard will inflict. This relatively inexpensive knife is ripe for a kydex scabbard.  FWIW, I generally pour some Pecard's oil inside most leather sheaths.  I once found the factory-bought leather sheath for my "found on the ground" Puma White Hunter actually accellerating corrosion on the well-oiled blade.  Word to the wise...

Many thanks to all for kind and informative suggestions; it was hard to make a choice, given many excellent suggested knives.

I am guilty of buying a knock of ESEE 3 from Amazon, and It's kind of a decent blade.    I liked the first one I tried so much I got a spare since it was only $25.

They are no longer available but here is the link:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K7M0S6Q/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good choice!  Go with what works for you and what you know.  One thing that makes knife suggestions tough is we all have different opinions, applications, and situations.

TYVM for kind comments.  As said, my choice was made difficult by valuable suggestions made by many posters.

If I have made a mistake, it's all on me.  

While not exotic or rare the Buck 192 is an amazing hunting knife.

Attached File

SCRAPYARD KNIVES WS-1020

I bought one of these a couple of years ago when they first came out. It has been an excellent skinning knife.



Also a great companion for a hawk

When ROCK6 makes a comment, I listen very closely.   Every Damn Time. He has the benefit of having used most camping devices, in many different environments, far more than most of us will do.

I use an ESEE 4in stainless for dressing out game, you name it.  Stays sharp, I've dressed out two deer back to back with no issues.  A little hard to sharpen with a Lansky, but it's worth it.

Oh man those are nice knives. I'm thinking I need to add the P Abedul  to the collection

I see 3 Randalls in there, (or knives with a heavy Randall influence )  -4th and 14th from the left on top and 4th from the right on bottom i think ----------    im old school so the buck stops there for me

I also like that damn Luke Combs --- whoda' thunk a fat boy could be a music star?    -   I dig it

I used a Cold Steel SRK for years until I got a DH Russell Canadian Belt Knife as part of some trade (not for the SRK, I still have that).  Odd looking knife but darned if it didn't quickly become the knife I carried most in the woods.  It handles pretty much everything I need it to surprisingly well.  I keep Moras in my bags and I think there are two in my truck right now.  The SRK is on my Batbelt.

I would say it's more about stumbling through life making expensive mistakes and often learning lessons through very effective pain and suffering. If I make an recommendation, it's because my dumbass took on average 8.7 attempts to figure it out

ROCK6

My favorite skinner is the smaller version, Sharp finger.  Back when I trapped and skinned beaver, it held an edge much longer than the rest of my knives.  One of the hardest things on knives is skinning a beaver, cut every inch off and fat is like ball bearings to a knive.

I'm a member of the same club, but you can take some comfort in knowing that those who choose to listen to your comments might wind up making a better choice than otherwise.

I'll show you my box of knives that were going to be perfect for some task or that I had to have for one reason or another if you show my yours.    I've actually been doing some work paring down that collection (and a bunch of other gear) and have gotten rid of quite a few; I could probably still open my own small outdoor gear booth.  

Same...

I have cleaned/skinned a lot of deer and a few hogs with my Mora Companion.  My brother in law who likes knives I gave him one for Christmas several years ago. He has 4 or 5 of them now.  He cleans a lot of dear every year and does taxidermy on the side and he uses a Mora now most of the time.  If I wanted something a little more I would look at
Esee 3 or 4

Buck fixed blade with S30v or S35vn steel

Scrapyard knives (they are hard to come by sometime but are worth every dime). Can be found in the $100 range if you look around.

Knives of Alaska- they have several models that are under $130 and are nearly bullet proof.  Plus they come from my home town and used to be in small store front next to our only gun store on Main Street.

Perhaps not a coincidence but I've been investigating best ways/systems for sharpening knives and other tools.

See Here  

New Puma knife is a little bit shorter, and a little thinner than White Hunter knife. Similar blade configuration.  Time will tell.  

Many thanks to folks who provided valuable comments; you all made it a tough decison, and good on you all!

Like I said, if I made a mistake, it's on me.