I incorporated a front receiver hitch into my bumper I built, and adapted a Harborfreight Bed Hoist to work in any 2" receiver (could work in back too). You could also do the same thing easily w/the cable crank version here for a few more $$.
The hoist was on sale around $75, and used scrap tubing to adapt it. It has a removable pin to turn the hoist arm any which way, as well as lock in in about 6 positions (could be easily expanded w/a few more holes) so you can easily pull up to something and swivel the hook to the object to be picked up. It also extends with a pin (3 or 4 holes IIRC)
It stores very easily and fairly compact in the bed.

IMHO this simple investment could be quite useful in shtf situations (use your imaginations about everything heavy to pick up/move etc) Not to mention I'm a Disabled Vet and a "hands on" guy and frequently need to do things to "multiply" my abilities w/o calling friends over to help all the time... this fits the bill just fine


Thought ya'll'd like to see some pics...

Compressor is a military 4 cyl gas version est weight (via grunt test) around 450lbs or so. Sure beats the hoohoo out of draggin it out by hand across rough ground. I was able to easily place it against the wall on the right in the pic next to the other compressor.

more pics of BOV..

Here's one from a few months ago. It's an ongoing project lol w/LOTS of "built in's" planned.

I like your bumper. Is it home built?

Are you taking lots of pictures of this "on going" project? You know how much everybody likes pictures here.

Thanks, yes it is. It has an import 10,000 electric winch, two hella 550's (splayed at an angle for wide beam light) and a receiver hitch. The main section of the bumper is made from a blank for a school bus bumper and all 3/16" . the underlying support member that the winch sits on is 6" channel iron and a 2" angle with two legs, each made from two 1/4" wall square tube. It's attached via the 4 frame horns on the 2500hd and "very" solid, however I can get the outer bumper off in about 15 min to service anything under it easily. The angled tubing stinger is designed to (hopefully lol) divert any potential tall road kill toward the bottom side of the truck and away from the windshield.





I've got a few pics, but I've got "Project ADD" and I don't tend to finish one part before I start on another, so there won't be a traditional build thread until it's done.

Plans/ongoing projects:
Solar
2 storage, 1 starting battery
on board air
on board water
on board welder
multiple inverters
sleeping/storage deck
rock sliders (dumping the westin step bars)
rear bumper to match front w/spare holding 4 jerry cans
light bar for roof rack w/2 hella 550's and 2 Dick Cepek super off roaders (I"ll have almost 1000w of light facing forward lol)
roof rack incorporates independently switch side/rear task lights
lots of coms
12v and 110v inside cab and bed, 12v and air at front bumper, 12v/air/water at rear
+ lots more

and then I'll start the trailer...

I'm working on the solar mount right now (taking a break to type this) and may have pics up w/in the next couple days of that part.

I like it! I will have to check out the hoists and make something up for the hitch on my truck as well.

FlatlinesUp, thank you for the post and pics.  You have a really nice ride and have some neat ideas for it.

39

Thanks for posting this!
I have been researching lifts out to do something similar.

I have a 1.5 ton Mil trailer I want to put one on..........but like
what you did here and might have to stuff a mount onto the
front of my Deuce......

I think you are right, I think these could be uber handy in a variety of
situations. You could easily move fuel drums, gen sets, all sorts of
things easily by yourself. Let us know how it works out and any thoughts or
comments you have please!!

Can you post a pic of how you mounted it onto your bumper??

Thanks gun (and others)!
It was a simple adaptation on the hoist. I just fully welded a 2" square tube (I made it long enough to reach the end of my receiver for extra support) to the bottom of the flat plate that's already on the hoist. Once it's welded, slide it in the receiver and mark where to drill your cross hole for the receiver hitch pin and you're pretty much done except for paint.
It's mounted in the front via my front receiver hitch in the winch bumper.

FWIW: HF also has CHEAP weldable 2" female receiver tube that you could get and weld to your trailer to be able to move the hoist from front/back of truck to the trailer or wherever you wanted to put a receiver tube. If you put it by the tongue of the trailer, or reinforced up around the front/top rail (on one side or the other), you could pick stuff up on the ground and swing it around into your trailer.


I'll try to get some more pics for you folks tomorrow

Those Harbor Freight hoists are tough!  A friend of mine loaded a completely full chest freezer with one with nothing more than two straps and some very careful work.  It has lifted engine blocks, transmissions, rear ends, and the list goes on.  After seeing what you did, I think I might have to invest in one.  Good work!

Very Slick

I think I will do something similar. I would attach it to the hitch for stability, but I would probably have it on a stand on the side so it would be easier to use for actually loading stuff in the truck. Maybe a swing out on a bearing. Put a foot on it to take the side load.

tag, cause its that cool

Here's some more pics that were requested.

Crane in storage position. I put the handle inside the top arm:



Closeup of 2" square tube welded to crane base (full welded every surface that touched):



Closeup of front receiver hitch in winch bumper. I flush mounted it and it's easy to reach under the bumper to place the receiver cross pin:



Crane swings 180* (really 360*, but my truck kinda gets in the way lol):



Crane extends past the side of the truck a good bit (est 18-24" or so):



Crane elevates to 7'6" (on my front bumper at this receiver height, measured at the top of the lift arm):



It doesn't have to go in front btw:



Keep in mind:

even if you're not a fabricator/tool guy, you can "build" one of these by buying 2" square tube approx 14-18" long (maybe found at lowes/homedepot), and take the base and the square tube to a muffler shop to weld for you. Easy/done. (or you can use it as yet another excuse as to why you need a welder and learn how to weld)

The crane is rated at 1000lbs (in the non extended position). Extended is approx 4-500lbs IIRC. The "flex" you see (esp when loaded), or "why does it lean to one side or the other?" is due to the slack between the receiver socket and the receiver. It could be adjusted/tightened once inserted by putting an adjusting nut/bolt on the bottom or side of the receiver (doesn't really bother me, as it functions correctly and is still just as strong)

Receiver hitch tongue weight capacity:
Class II : 350lbs
Class III: 500lbs
Class IV: 1200lbs
Your factory receiver will have a sticker/stamp/booklet that exp. the rating.

What that means: you're not supposed to overload the receiver w/weight and the crane makes it easy to "overload" the receiver esp w/the leverage it applies due to the load being farther from the receiver.
BUT: that being said, the ratings are for hauling/accelerating/stopping trailers at speed. IMHO driving slowly across the yard extends these numbers a bit.
Just watch what you pick up as you're picking it up and use your damn head ( I get SO tired of liberal "safety warnings" ) Use at your own risk (esp if you're drinking etc etc etc)

I'd be glad to answer any other q's if there are any, and I feel it's a pretty damn good addition considering the price and it's capabilities.

Is the roof rack home made or a factory and who build's it.

It's a Kargo Master brand that I modified. I got if off craigslist for a good deal, but it was for a raised camper shell truck, so I cut/lowered it 3", and cut/slugged/narrowed it 2". I added the 1" square tube as reinforcement and the expanded metal deck (have worked off it cutting trees etc) on the rear portion as well. It's currently off the truck as I'm doing more work to it (pics/post later)

FWIW the Kargo Masters sell for around $7-800 new, and HF has a "look a like" version for around $250 , but I don't know the quality so ymmv

nice setup, we had somthing like this back at the farm. we had a setup on the side though so we could put spare chain/hooks ect ect on it( becuase I guarentee as soon as you walk away from a fully functional piece of equipment on that farm peices would walk away unless they were tied down).

Thank you VERY much for taking the time to do those additional pictures.
That was exactly what I was looking for! Looks great.

I have been thinking about doing something similar recently, but was still researching out
options.

Then I saw you post and it was exactly what I was looking for. I think I can fabricate a mount
that will attach one of these nicely onto my Deuce and my trailers. It will be most useful
indeed!

Thanks again!!

(Oh and I love your fabrication work......wish I lived down the road from you!!)

Thats an awesome idea!



..if you ever get in a real pinch you could flip the whole thing upside down and use it like a jack, too.

nice welds btw.  cool setup

that is cool , well done .



things like that get stored in the back of my head for later , if needed .



thanks.

john

very cool

I really like your RIG! Nice mods, I really like your bumper.

Thanks for your service.

SCOREeeeeee for FlatlinesUp

If you bought a receiver extension could you use it with your tailgate down and spin it around to place stuff in the back of the truck?

Grove

That's what I wan thinking, but it would help if the hoist sat higher, or if the main pipe thingy (or whatever you want to call it) was taller.



 

When I build my rear bumper I plan on putting a receiver socket off to one side (or both) as well as the center.

The hoist could be easily adapted for height etc and if I were to use an extension, I'd prob make a drop down leg (prob adjustable) to support under the hoist



*Thanks for the no archive sir

any updates?

I have the same exact hoist on the back corner of my UNIMOG.
A friend bought a trailer and it was on it... he didn't want it there, so I scored a FREEBIE!

It has been invaluable lifting heavy things into the bed of the truck.

For example:  A spare Micheline XL 15.5/80R-20 tire weighs 320Lbs WITHOUT THE RIM! (another 150Lbs!)
It's just about impossible to get it on the truck without the hoist.

A Clausing Milling Machine: about 600Lbs

A Winchester Gun Safe: ~1100Lbs
(1000Lbs is the rated maximum weight.  It was flexing a lot with that one!)

I put one of the SUPERWINCH 2000Lb ATV winch kits on it and it's wired to the Mog batteries.
That was a HUGE upgrade to the hoist.



I just made a plate to bolt the winch to and welded it on the top of the boom about 2 inches from the hinge/pivot.

I also bought some 2x2" square tube stock and made a longer boom for when I'm lifting lighter stuff
but need a longer reach to get it.

I loved this thread so much I added a mount to the front of my Deuce and
added the next step up in Harbor Freight truck cranes

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-ton-capacity-pickup-truck-crane-with-cable-winch-37555.html

works great and I have hauled 1,000 pound diesel gen sets with it. I can unload them from
the back of my F150.

Better still I can pop it off the Deuce and slap it into the standard receiver hitch on
my F150. Works great and is extremely handy.....

I will post pics if anyone is interested....

Consider me interested: PLEASE post!

That would be great for getting up fence post.
If I could only weld.

Same here

Would be greatly improved with the addition of a small snatch block so you could double line.

I have become a loyal follower of "the block", anytime a pull or pick involving line comes into play. Makes everything not only easier because of added pull strength but more controllable as well for the same reason.

Already planned as I have come to the same conclusion on my own.
It only makes sense to do this doesn't it.

Everything is better with a snatch block. Straight pull is fo suckas yo.

I fracking love it

Here's a video of my truck crane mounted on my M35A2
M35A2 Truck Crane


I had a piece of square tubing welded to the base and then a mount added to the post.
A reese hitch was mounted below the driver's side frame rail on the bumper.
You just slide it into the reese hitch and the upper mount locks into the driver's
side shackle mount. Pull the shackle off and then slide the pin back through to
lock it into place. Locking it into the shackle mount on top of the bumper/frame
eliminated any flex. I've lifted and moved 1,000 pound gen sets with it.

I can pop just the crane top off the post or pull two pins and pull everything off.
Plus it pops right into the hitch on the back of my F150........

Handy......now I just need to paint it CARC 383 green.......

I have a question about the air supply.  You said you had air in the front.  Compressor?  What tank?  How is it installed?

Check out LED light bars.
I have one on my rhino. Looks like daytime and draws less power than all of the factory lights put together.

Dude, where did you get that "over the shell"  cargo rack?  I NEED one.....been searching for one for the longest time now.....

Nice!

Gawddambit, B!  Why ain't I seen this til now?



 

Great ideas, thanks.

I did the same thing with a regular 2 ton engine hoist for moving stuff around the yard.  I put it in the back of my truck & use ratchet straps to tiedown loops in the front of my truck bed to take some of the load off the receiver hitch.  The heaviest thing I have moved with it yet is a complete engine/transmission/transfer case (454/TH400/NP208) and it didn't complain one bit.  It gets used all the time for moving stuff around the yard - work smarter, not harder!

Very nice setup!

Run a search on the original poster for his build thread on the truck if he did not already provide a link.



I am pretty sure he modified a rack but it has been a while since I read that thread.



If you get a rack that comes in pieces you can splice in some pieces to widen it to fit over the shell and you can make or buy the pieces that let it attach to the bed rail holes.  Just some flat steel coming out from under the shell from what I have seen around here.



Being able to weld helps in modifying this stuff but some of these racks do just bolt together so you could manage either way I think, or have a local welder weld it up for you once you have it all figured out.



If you run some searches it is not uncommon to modify these racks anyway and some folks on expedition portal had a thread on them as well from what I recall.  I think they set up the shell as sleeping quarters and the rack was for additional gear and what not.



Watch the load ratings on these racks, some seem awfully light even though I know full well some owners overload them.



I would spend the money for a good rack and if modifying said rack I would make sure I did so in a decent manner to maintain the load rating.

It's a KargoMaster brand rack (around $1k-1300), beware HF has one that looks very much like it and it's VERY light duty (ladders etc).

It originally attached via flat plates bolted/screwed to the bed tops, SWMBO drove under a parking deck and caved the bed corners, so when I straightened out the top rail, I surrounded the bed top with 2x3x 5/16" angle (fully down both sides and across the front) the original flat mounting plates were keyholed into the angle using a plasma, then full welded. Now it's mounted thru the shell, then the angle, then the bed in several different places w/bolts/lock nuts etc.
I also narrowed the rack 3" and lowered it 2" (it was orig for a hi-top shell), and I added 1" square tube and expanded metal as a working deck on top. I also have a small three panel solar frame built in too.

I wouldn't hesitate to carry 1k lbs on top if I needed.  I've had three full grown men working of the top at once (guess 700lbs)