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Posted: 4/23/2010 1:07:27 AM EDT
[#1]
Originally Posted By hilljb:
Holy. Freaking. Crap. So yeah, lessons learned on my first try: 1. Get a damn heat gun. Doing the oven thing when you mess up or want to make small modifications SUCKS. Great for the first pressing, but not great if you want to do some fine molding or refitting. 2. Dremel tool: PITA. Get a table saw or something that can actually cut a straight line. 3. Measure twice, cut once. Nuff said. 4. The little cheap rivet driver they sell on knifekits is totally fine for driving rivets, don't waste money on the dies or press unless you really plan on cranking out tons of stuff, cause it took me no time at all and all my rivets look fine with the cheapo rivet tapper thing. 5. .080 Kydex is THICK. I couldn't imagine working with .090. That's about all i learned. I'll post a pic when I get some time. +10 |
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Posted: 4/23/2010 5:23:45 AM EDT
[#2]
Originally Posted By hilljb:
Holy. Freaking. Crap. So yeah, lessons learned on my first try: 1. Get a damn heat gun. Doing the oven thing when you mess up or want to make small modifications SUCKS. Great for the first pressing, but not great if you want to do some fine molding or refitting. 2. Dremel tool: PITA. Get a table saw or something that can actually cut a straight line. 3. Measure twice, cut once. Nuff said. 4. The little cheap rivet driver they sell on knifekits is totally fine for driving rivets, don't waste money on the dies or press unless you really plan on cranking out tons of stuff, cause it took me no time at all and all my rivets look fine with the cheapo rivet tapper thing. 5. .080 Kydex is THICK. I couldn't imagine working with .090. That's about all i learned. I'll post a pic when I get some time. 1. Yeah, I came to the same conclusion. 5. I actually ordered one sheet of each 0.06, 0.08, and 0.093. 0.093 isn't actually much more difficult to work with, and isn't noticably thicker when you're talking about holding a 1.2" thick handgun. |
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VA, USA
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Posted: 4/23/2010 7:56:56 AM EDT
[#3]
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I need a bandsaw and a belt sander! |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 4/23/2010 9:50:40 AM EDT
[#4]
What are the best type of screw fasteners to use for belt clips and where is a good place to order them?
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Posted: 4/23/2010 12:57:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Markypie]
[#5]
My first holster for my .45 with Streamlight TLR1:
I used some way too heavy Kydex for this. |
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USA
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Posted: 4/24/2010 5:13:36 PM EDT
[#6]
Here's a Magazine holder for pocket carry. I made it with a scrap leftover from my holster project.
So far with $9 worth of kydex I've made 2 gun holsters and a magazine holster, and I still have scraps left. This magazine holster took maybe 30 minutes total 
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Posted: 4/25/2010 8:21:19 PM EDT
[#7]
Originally Posted By readyornot:
Here's a Magazine holder for pocket carry. I made it with a scrap leftover from my holster project. So far with $9 worth of kydex I've made 2 gun holsters and a magazine holster, and I still have scraps left. This magazine holster took maybe 30 minutes total http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm66/mnelson78/magholster.jpg That is a great idea! I've been thinking about doing much the same for when I pocket carry my spare Kahr mag as well. |
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Posted: 4/26/2010 6:30:11 AM EDT
[#8]
I'm trying to build basically a High Noon Holster's Split Decision, except out of kydex because the real thing just collapses as soon as you take out the gun. I'm trying to do a kydex shell for the gun, and then a leather strap to attach the belt clip. The kydex molding I can do easily with a heat gun, but any suggestion on how to attach a leather strap the the kydex? I was thinking of a rivet next to the front of the slide (where the High Noon version would stitch the belt clip strap to the leather), but I'm not a fan of having a metal rivent against the gun.
Also, have any of you tried completely reshaping an existing kydex holster? I've got a C.T.A.C. designed for a S&W M&P 9c, but my M&P jams like crazy so I'd like to reshape the holster to fit a S&W 908. Thanks. |
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Posted: 4/26/2010 7:41:14 AM EDT
[#9]
Originally Posted By Iram:
I'm trying to build basically a High Noon Holster's Split Decision, except out of kydex because the real thing just collapses as soon as you take out the gun. I'm trying to do a kydex shell for the gun, and then a leather strap to attach the belt clip. The kydex molding I can do easily with a heat gun, but any suggestion on how to attach a leather strap the the kydex? I was thinking of a rivet next to the front of the slide (where the High Noon version would stitch the belt clip strap to the leather), but I'm not a fan of having a metal rivent against the gun. Also, have any of you tried completely reshaping an existing kydex holster? I've got a C.T.A.C. designed for a S&W M&P 9c, but my M&P jams like crazy so I'd like to reshape the holster to fit a S&W 908. Thanks. Let's tackle this issue separately –– have you taken this problem to the M&P forum? I have not known M&Ps to be jamomatics... in fact this is like someone saying a Glock jams all the time! /end threadjack –– hoping to help. 
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Posted: 4/26/2010 8:24:27 AM EDT
[#10]
Originally Posted By macman37:
Originally Posted By Iram:
I'm trying to build basically a High Noon Holster's Split Decision, except out of kydex because the real thing just collapses as soon as you take out the gun. I'm trying to do a kydex shell for the gun, and then a leather strap to attach the belt clip. The kydex molding I can do easily with a heat gun, but any suggestion on how to attach a leather strap the the kydex? I was thinking of a rivet next to the front of the slide (where the High Noon version would stitch the belt clip strap to the leather), but I'm not a fan of having a metal rivent against the gun. Also, have any of you tried completely reshaping an existing kydex holster? I've got a C.T.A.C. designed for a S&W M&P 9c, but my M&P jams like crazy so I'd like to reshape the holster to fit a S&W 908. Thanks. Let's tackle this issue separately –– have you taken this problem to the M&P forum? I have not known M&Ps to be jamomatics... in fact this is like someone saying a Glock jams all the time! /end threadjack –– hoping to help. Wasn't even trying to take on the M&P issue. Already hit their forum, already sent it back to S&W for a repair, gave up and I'm moving on. I probably just got a lemon. So, has anyone found a good way to attach leather to kydex, or try to reshape a ctac holster? No one seems to make good holsters for the S&W 908, so I'm thinking about turning my M&P holster into a 908 holster. |
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Posted: 4/26/2010 9:02:23 AM EDT
[Last Edit: AJ_Dual]
[#11]
Last weekend I finished the shoulder holster/PDW rig for my Kel-Tec Sub9 carbine. Blue Force Gear used to make one, but they discontinued it several years ago. So the only option is to now make your own. I wound up mating it to a spare Galati 1911 shoulder holster rig.
I just need to source a dual-pouch 30 round 9mm subgun mag holder for the left side, and figure out my best option for a belt tie-down. The first time I'd ever worked with Kydex and was impressed with how easy it was. 
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Posted: 4/26/2010 9:24:55 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Iram]
[#12]
Reshaping a CTAC was a lot easier than I was expecting. This went from a CTAC for a M&P9c to a CTAC for a S&W 908 in less than an hour's work.
Put the 908 into the holster, heated it up, pushed the 908 a little forward (it's longer the the M&P 9c) and adjusted it until it fit just right at the end. Lossened the tensions screws, and then went bit by bit down from the muzzle to the grips reshaping it. Initially went too tight on the ejection port and ended up with the gun becoming stuck, but a little heat and it went back to normal. Once it was all shaped, I tightened the tension screws, and it holds well but still can be quickly drawn. Pics incoming. EDIT: Before This is what the CTAC originally looked like, as molded by the pros. 
 (I removed the moleskin before molding)
 (Basically it's two sheets of kydex molded around one sheet, with some weird attachment on the outside that doesn't extend into the sight channel)
During  (how the 908 fit before remolding)
 (ejection port too deep; gun stuck)
After  (grabs the slide lock and safety for retention, also makes it hard to holster without engaging the safety first)
 (retention, with me grabbing a hot metal screw...ouch...)
 (other side, this time not gabbing a hot metal screw)
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Posted: 4/26/2010 5:48:30 PM EDT
[#13]
Originally Posted By AJ_Dual:
Last weekend I finished the shoulder holster/PDW rig for my Kel-Tec Sub9 carbine. Blue Force Gear used to make one, but they discontinued it several years ago. So the only option is to now make your own. I wound up mating it to a spare Galati 1911 shoulder holster rig. I just need to source a dual-pouch 30 round 9mm subgun mag holder for the left side, and figure out my best option for a belt tie-down. The first time I'd ever worked with Kydex and was impressed with how easy it was. That is absolutely badass! Dont' they make those that will take Glock Mags? I'm thinking 2 or 3 Glock 18 33 rounders on the other side and you would have a low-profile bullet hose that would be perfect for urban movement. |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 4/26/2010 9:18:10 PM EDT
[#14]
Here is my homemade holster for my new-to-me Kimber compact. I bought the clips from comp-tac.
Its molded to fit on my hip, comfortable for all day carry, easy to re-holster.... It was done completely with hand tool and the kitchen oven....no power tools. I made it in one evening watching TV....it did make a mess on the couch though! |
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Posted: 4/27/2010 8:56:31 AM EDT
[#15]
Originally Posted By Markypie:
Originally Posted By AJ_Dual:
Last weekend I finished the shoulder holster/PDW rig for my Kel-Tec Sub9 carbine. Blue Force Gear used to make one, but they discontinued it several years ago. So the only option is to now make your own. I wound up mating it to a spare Galati 1911 shoulder holster rig. I just need to source a dual-pouch 30 round 9mm subgun mag holder for the left side, and figure out my best option for a belt tie-down. The first time I'd ever worked with Kydex and was impressed with how easy it was. That is absolutely badass! Dont' they make those that will take Glock Mags? I'm thinking 2 or 3 Glock 18 33 rounders on the other side and you would have a low-profile bullet hose that would be perfect for urban movement. Yes, they make them (the newer Sub2000 now) that use Glock magazines. Mine is the original Kel-Tec which is a S&W 5900 compatible magazine, for which you can also get 30-round mags for. I can keep 30 rounds in/on the carbine, 15 loaded, and 15 in the spare carrrier, and then another 60 rounds in two 30's on the other side. It would be perfect for when things are too dangerous for just a handgun, but things aren't SHTF-enough you're able to openly carry a rifle. Now I don't know exactly what that would be, but it's nice to know you have the option.
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Posted: 4/27/2010 2:49:25 PM EDT
[#16]
Originally Posted By hilljb: http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac100/hill2jb/a04d31a2.jpg" target="_blank">http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac100/hill2jb/a04d31a2.jpg http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac100/hill2jb/5e6764e6.jpg" target="_blank">http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac100/hill2jb/5e6764e6.jpg I need a bandsaw and a belt sander! I had good luck with some $5 harbor freight sheet metal snips, and then I flattened/finished the edges with 220 grit placed on a flat surface. Worked great, and I like the matte edges. Those would be nice tools, though. |
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Posted: 4/27/2010 4:24:37 PM EDT
[#17]
Here is a pretty cool mounting system. It lets you mount at a few different angles:
http://www.blade-tech.com/Large-Tek-Lok-w-hardware-pr-841.html |
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VA, USA
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Posted: 4/27/2010 4:48:28 PM EDT
[#18]
Originally Posted By AR4U:
Originally Posted By hilljb:
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac100/hill2jb/a04d31a2.jpg" target="_blank">http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac100/hill2jb/a04d31a2.jpg http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac100/hill2jb/5e6764e6.jpg" target="_blank">http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac100/hill2jb/5e6764e6.jpg I need a bandsaw and a belt sander! I had good luck with some $5 harbor freight sheet metal snips, and then I flattened/finished the edges with 220 grit placed on a flat surface. Worked great, and I like the matte edges. Those would be nice tools, though. Roger. I got some of those metal snips today... WOW. Wish I had those the first time I tried Kydex! They cut (no pun intended) my time in half. Got a heat gun too. |
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Posted: 4/29/2010 10:11:38 AM EDT
[#19]
I need to toss up pics of my "homemade press" and the ACOG cover I made....
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Posted: 4/29/2010 10:34:40 AM EDT
[#20]
Originally Posted By MOS2111:
I need to toss up pics of my "homemade press" and the ACOG cover I made.... Yes please! |
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Posted: 5/1/2010 2:08:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: topknot]
[#21]
Finally got around to making my first Kydex IWB holster (or Kydex anything for that matter). Since I don't have one yet for my Glock 23, figured it was a good guinea pig for the experiment.
By the way, I'm a lefty.                 Still a few fit issue tweaks, and I need to buy some blue Loctite for the Chicago screws, but overall I'm quite pleased with it and it's very comfortable to wear. Got lots of ideas for the next one. ETA: Ended up heating up the kydex belt loop with the heat gun and folding it under the belt (creating a lip) so it grips when you draw. Also heated a couple of spots that were catching. Now draws smooth and this thing is as comfortable if not more so than many holsters I've paid $80+ for.  Taken in mirror. |
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Posted: 5/1/2010 4:25:27 PM EDT
[#22]
Nice job topknot. I need to try one for my G19. I've done kydex knife sheaths, but no kydex holsters.
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UT, USA
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Posted: 5/1/2010 5:33:46 PM EDT
[#23]
Not sure if this has been posted already, but here goes...
For finishing the edges, you might try a blowtorch. (Outdoors with a fire extinguisher handy!) I've used hand held propane torches to finish edges on clear acrylic with excellent results. Once you have the plastic shaped and sanded smooth, a VERY quick pass with a flame will "melt" the dull sanded edge and give it a glossy, polished appearance. Kydex is a lower temperature plastic than acrylic, so you'd need to work even more quickly. But, this could give some really nice looking finished edges. The risk is if you move the torch to slow, you will ruin your kydex. |
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Posted: 5/1/2010 5:50:06 PM EDT
[#24]
THAT looks great, topknot!
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Posted: 5/1/2010 8:36:14 PM EDT
[#25]
Thanks Bulldawg and Wilson! There are several things I'll do differently on the next one, but for the first go round, didn't think it was too bad.
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Posted: 5/3/2010 7:17:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Afterwork_Ninja]
[#26]
Are strips of .060 that I'm using for my holster stout enough for belt clips, or do I need thicker material ?
While we're at it, can I see a couple of pics of how belt loops are attached on an OWB holster? The only hardware I bought were the rivets for attaching two layers of .060. Am I going to need screws that go through the rivets to attach my clips or would it work to just rivet the clips to the back part of the holster? (by that I mean in the cavity where the gun goes, bout obviously not where the gun will scrape on the rivets.) Do the clips have to be mounted to all 3 layers of kydex to be sturdy enough? I hope that makes sense. |
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Posted: 5/3/2010 11:06:12 PM EDT
[#27]
I have no issues with .06 and prefer it now to .08. You can rivet 3 sheets instead of 2.
Here is some stuff I have made for friends and a pic of my press. You can see the learning curve on my mag holders.... 
And my ACOG cover.... 
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Posted: 5/6/2010 12:28:16 PM EDT
[#28]
Originally Posted By Bloencustoms: Not sure if this has been posted already, but here goes... For finishing the edges, you might try a blowtorch. (Outdoors with a fire extinguisher handy!) I've used hand held propane torches to finish edges on clear acrylic with excellent results. Once you have the plastic shaped and sanded smooth, a VERY quick pass with a flame will "melt" the dull sanded edge and give it a glossy, polished appearance. Kydex is a lower temperature plastic than acrylic, so you'd need to work even more quickly. But, this could give some really nice looking finished edges. The risk is if you move the torch to slow, you will ruin your kydex. You can help prevent trouble using wet paper towels or rags to protect the areas you don't want to heat. I do this when reshaping small areas with a heatgun. You may be better off using some solvent on a swab run around the edges; it will partially dissolve the plastic and leave a smooth finish. Acetone would probably be sufficient. |
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Posted: 5/6/2010 5:22:18 PM EDT
[#29]
Originally Posted By MOS2111: I have no issues with .06 and prefer it now to .08. You can rivet 3 sheets instead of 2. Here is some stuff I have made for friends and a pic of my press. You can see the learning curve on my mag holders.... http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j116/mos21112/IMG_3305.jpg http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j116/mos21112/IMG_3306.jpg http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j116/mos21112/IMG_3307.jpg http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j116/mos21112/IMG_3287.jpg http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j116/mos21112/IMG_3286.jpg http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j116/mos21112/IMG_3285.jpg http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j116/mos21112/IMG_3284.jpg And my ACOG cover.... http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j116/mos21112/IMG_3293.jpg http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j116/mos21112/IMG_3288.jpg What in the heck did you do to that poor rifle?  |
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Posted: 5/6/2010 6:40:24 PM EDT
[#30]
Originally Posted By Forgetfull:
What in the heck did you do to that poor rifle? Treated it like a combat weapon! 
I like pretty and shiny Sauers, Mausers, Krieghoffs, Blasers, Kricos, Heyms, and Sakos as much as anybody. But I LOVE an AR (or AK) with "character". A beat-up rifle with hours, and hours, and hours of fun on it is beautiful thing!
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Posted: 5/6/2010 8:44:01 PM EDT
[#31]
Originally Posted By Forgetfull:
Originally Posted By MOS2111:LOUDWORDS
What in the heck did you do to that poor rifle?
I built it, shot it, took it to a "real" class changed it, updated it for reliability, painted it, updated the optics again, used it, updated it and run it. I have had this rifle for about 6 years. It started as my gift to myself on return from deployment. It is now with out a doubt one hell of a go to rifle that will blend in ANYWHERE in my area. If you dislike my paint, you probably wouldn't like the maintenance and cleaning schedule. The only malfunctions in the last 3k I have had were related to the mags. Ps - that poor rifle and Acog get hits all day long prone with magazine support at 600 yards in a 20mph crosswind all day long with 55gn fmj. Its also about to go represent at the larure 3 gun...What does yours do? 
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Posted: 5/6/2010 10:57:10 PM EDT
[#32]
Originally Posted By Forgetfull:
Originally Posted By MOS2111:
SNIP What in the heck did you do to that poor rifle?
Its Beautiful  
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AL, USA
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Posted: 5/7/2010 9:17:18 AM EDT
[#33]
Originally Posted By MOS2111:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j116/mos21112/IMG_3306.jpg And my ACOG cover.... http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j116/mos21112/IMG_3293.jpg http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j116/mos21112/IMG_3288.jpg -1 for sock covering toes on the one picture with your foot in it 
+100000 for a nice looking "used" (as in everyday) rifle and nice original cover for the ACOG |
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USA
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Posted: 5/7/2010 3:44:11 PM EDT
[#34]
my first 2 attempts.
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Posted: 5/7/2010 5:28:33 PM EDT
[#35]
Im working on getting a small bandsaw to cut my kydex straight because a dremel sucks and I want my stuff to look good and perfessional.
Using This to heat your kydex >>>>> anything else so far. Heat gun is needed for adjustments and retention. .060 is good for holsters and Im trying to figure out what I want for belt loops. Anyone find .060 coyote brown kydex? |
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Posted: 5/7/2010 7:34:54 PM EDT
[#36]
I wouldn't go any less than .08 for belt loops.
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Posted: 5/7/2010 7:47:41 PM EDT
[#37]
Just curious about something.
The one Kydex sheath I made, I heated it up in the oven. Would this work also and or better? Puts out either 570F or 1000F - bought it for my hockey stick. 
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Posted: 5/7/2010 7:48:43 PM EDT
[#38]
Originally Posted By Rosco79:
my first 2 attempts. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/jrhack79/DSCN4878.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/jrhack79/DSCN4885.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/jrhack79/DSCN4886.jpg I would never know those were the first 2. Those are darn nice. |
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Posted: 5/7/2010 8:16:16 PM EDT
[#39]
Originally Posted By Backstop:
Just curious about something. The one Kydex sheath I made, I heated it up in the oven. Would this work also and or better? Puts out either 570F or 1000F - bought it for my hockey stick. http://www.acetoolonline.com/v/vspfiles/photos/MIL-8975-6-2T.jpg That should be perfect; it gives you a lot of control over exactly where you want more heat. I use a Milwaukee heat gun for inside corners on Kydex wall panels. (be careful - it'll burn the hell out of your hands fast if you're not wearing cloth gloves) |
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Posted: 5/7/2010 8:17:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Backstop]
[#40]
Thanks Wilson.
And I gotta ask: what are "Kydex wall panels?" |
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Posted: 5/7/2010 8:29:55 PM EDT
[Last Edit: WILSON]
[#41]
Originally Posted By Backstop:
Thanks Wilson. And I gotta ask: what are "Kydex wall panels?" Nothing special, just 4' x 8' or 4' x 12' Kydex paneling. Hospitals use it a lot because it's pretty everything-proof, it's easy to keep clean, and they can afford $178 a sheet. Walmart is also starting to use more and more of the stuff in their bathrooms (cost efficient because they can clean graffiti off .. relatively easily). The only stuff I run across is .093" and .125" though... |
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Posted: 5/7/2010 8:54:10 PM EDT
[#42]
Man I love this thread, you guys have made some really nice holsters/knife sheaths. i think I'm gonna be getting some Kydex and supplies and see what I can work up.
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Posted: 5/7/2010 9:50:54 PM EDT
[#43]
Do it.
It's way easier to work with than you'd think. And odds are you'll make something functional on your very first try. Something esthetically pleasing? That may take awhile longer, but there's lots of leeway to try over and keep working it until you've got it where you want it. If you've worked with things that only give you one shot to "get it right" like concrete, tile/grout etc. non water based paints etc. this is easier. |
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Posted: 5/7/2010 10:26:52 PM EDT
[#44]
Originally Posted By AJ_Dual:
If you've worked with things that only give you one shot to "get it right" like concrete <sn> EEEEEEEK! Concrete is my arch-nemesis!
[runs away] |
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Posted: 5/8/2010 4:55:33 AM EDT
[#45]
Originally Posted By Backstop:
Just curious about something. The one Kydex sheath I made, I heated it up in the oven. Would this work also and or better? Puts out either 570F or 1000F - bought it for my hockey stick. http://www.acetoolonline.com/v/vspfiles/photos/MIL-8975-6-2T.jpg That would have worked much better. Being able to heat up and adjust just a small area (instead of heating the whole thing) makes a night and day difference. |
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Posted: 5/8/2010 11:02:10 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Backstop]
[#46]
Originally Posted By txharleyrider:
Man I love this thread, you guys have made some really nice holsters/knife sheaths. i think I'm gonna be getting some Kydex and supplies and see what I can work up. Just do it - seriously. Heck, must've been 4 yrs ago or more, I made a knife sheath. The first one was supposed to be the prototype, so the edges aren't perfect, the rivets aren't perfect, I tried to get fancy (protoytpe, remember?) and added a tension screw and found out later I didn't need it, etc. Darn thing works so well, I use it and never made another. Reality is, it is more secure and sturdier than the "Name Brand" (  ) one I bought (same knife).
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Posted: 5/8/2010 11:04:24 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Backstop]
[#47]
Originally Posted By WILSON:
Originally Posted By Backstop:
Thanks Wilson. And I gotta ask: what are "Kydex wall panels?" Nothing special, just 4' x 8' or 4' x 12' Kydex paneling. Hospitals use it a lot because it's pretty everything-proof, it's easy to keep clean, and they can afford $178 a sheet. Walmart is also starting to use more and more of the stuff in their bathrooms (cost efficient because they can clean graffiti off .. relatively easily). The only stuff I run across is .093" and .125" though... Interesting. Your first description was exact and perfect, but I just never imagined kydex being used to procect walls. |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 5/8/2010 7:32:53 PM EDT
[#48]
Kydex is used in many things. But did you know that you can also thermo form ABS. ABS has properties similar to KYDEX at a fraction of the cost. One of the main differences in KYDEX and ABS is that KYDEX when ignited will smolder (SP?) instead of flame up where as ABS will ignite. That is why Hospitals wall panales and airplane interior parts are made of KYDEX.
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Posted: 5/9/2010 1:12:17 PM EDT
[#49]
What do I need to mount my belt loops to my holster?
I bought the #6-6 rivets for the .060 Kydex, and I need to order some .080 for loops, but I don't see any chicago screws that fit through the #6-6 rivets. |
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Posted: 5/11/2010 5:09:13 PM EDT
[#50]
Originally Posted By Afterwork_Ninja:
What do I need to mount my belt loops to my holster? I bought the #6-6 rivets for the .060 Kydex, and I need to order some .080 for loops, but I don't see any chicago screws that fit through the #6-6 rivets. I would use Chicago screws or the like for the loops. Rivets are more of a permanent solution and they loops are more of a temporary solution. The loops will break, you will want to move them etc. I think you would regret riveting them. |
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