Wondering what, if any, additives everyone uses in their diesel tractors? My buddy had a diesel truck and he used additives to provide extra lube for the injectors since they removed most of the sulphur from diesel. Does anyone recommend doing the same for their tractor? I have a Kubota L3901 and am wondering if I should occasionally run some algaecide through it and whether I should should just get in the habit of using a fuel additive?? If so, what does everyone recommend for tractors??

Ironically in a meeting with a refinery.

Will post in a bit.

I love this place!! No matter what info ya need, an expert (and 250 non-experts ) are only a forum post away. Awaiting your response. Thanks!!!

I use WalMart Super Tech 2 stroke oil in an old diesel Chevy I have, 1 pint to a full tank.

I know I got this idea from somewhere on the internet but I can't remember where.....

I run farm diesel (off road non-taxable) in my tractor.  But I don't have the DEF system on it.  Purrs like a kitten.

Hot Shot Secret EDT at every fill up, and Deisel Extreme once a year.   I run it in my Diesel truck, and my farm equipment.

https://www.hotshotsecret.com/shop/signature-series-fuel-pack/

Power Service.

Just don't use it on any modern diesel equipped with emissions equipment

I put two stroke outboard motor oil in mine, maybe a half pint to 10 gallons.

However, the only emissions system that is on it is a muffler and that muffler is 23 years old.

So, here's there deal.

Most brands, such as Power Service, Hot Shots, Howes, even my own brand, are simply that - Brands.   At most, we buy the base materials from someone else, slap them together, get an EPA license and call it a day.  At a minimum, we simply rebrand someone's existing product.

Those base materials, come from a very, very limited number of companies out there.  Afton Chemical, DOW, few others.

Majority of fuel additives, however, come from a few specific blenders.  Don't believe me? It's public knowledge.

All legal, diesel additives can be found here: EPA approved diesel fuel additives

So into fuel additives. You have a few different types of fuel additives:

1. Your 'normal' fuel additive - treats lubricity issues and probably brings up the cetane levels.
- Arguably with today's fuels, you rarely need to bring up Cetane levels but that's an entirely different conversation.
- Also normally has some R&O (rust and oxidation) inhibitors in it.

2. Your 'winter' Fuel additive -  Same as above, also adds cold flow improver.
-  Reduces gel point / cloud point in SOME diesel fuels, not all.

3.  Surfactant based fuel additives - These are kind of new / 'state of the art' ones, that were designed for post Tier 4 (emissions) engines.

- These fuel additives are very good at getting rid of water in fuel.  
- Also can have R&O properties, additional cetane, cold flow, etc.
-  Down side is, they can create carbon particles by getting scalded in common rail systems running too hot.  Thus, could lead to fuel filter issues.

So, in a small diesel engine, do I recommend fuel additives?  Yes. I recommend a fuel additive in everything.  All the fuel I sell, which will be heading towards 30+ million gallons of diesel fuel this year, will have additive in it.

But it's knowing your fuel.  Some fuels cannot take winter fuel additive - it's a waste of money. Why?  Honestly it's because this one refinery doesn't strip the wax out of their fuel. So it clouds up at literally around 3F.    Most fuel clouds up around -10f.   And there is no amount of fuel additive that will stop it from geling, the only choice is to cut it with kerosene.   But that's a rare exception.

Should you run biocide? Unless you have a known algae problem - No.  If you don't have a algae problem, biocides literally do nothing else.  They kill bacteria.

Key to stopping Algae?  Keep your tank full. Cycle your cans (or drums, or tanks) often.  Keep your fuel stored in a temp and humidity stable area, as well as sealed. (The metal jerry cans with the rubber gaskets are good.  Plastic jugs, with EPA 'friendly' tops - are bad. Go figure.)   If you have a bulk tank or drum, use a filter on it - 30 micron at least, 20 micron preferred.  If you have a bulk tank, make sure you have a filter on your air vent as well. Descant filter.

So, TL;DR

- Yes, run a fuel additive.
- Brand isn't super important when it comes to simply looking at Lubricity / Cetane in summer.
- Brand really isn't important looking at Winter flow either. Most cold flow improvers come from 1 company in Germany.
- If you have a water issue, we can talk about that later.

Anything 2003 or newer, that would generally be a bad idea.

It's generally a really bad idea, 2008 or newer.

Wow, thanks for sharing some of your expertise and taking the time to type all of that out. I appreciate it and will start running a general additive in ever tankful. I'll also be sure to keep the tank topped off as much as possible and look into switching out my cans with the metal jerry cans (I already have some for gas).

Thanks again!!!!

Off road fuel is dyed because it is exempt from a portion of the taxes. I don't think the actual fuel is significantly different

All fuel is 15ppm max, ULSD.

Good point, mine is 25 years old

I use Stanadyne Performance Formula.

I used to fill up with my off road diesel into my 7.3 and it ran much better than with the Exxon or Valero diesel.  I too worked at a refinery and there are different blends for most fuels including diesel.  I cannot run the off road diesel in my 6.7, there are warnings about using it but there is a blend difference of some type in diesels that I normally use.  My tractor runs with less HP and is noisier with store bought diesels.