Howdy,

The fence along the back of my property is in need of repair/replacement. A couple of the posts are being pushed into the wash running the width of the yard. Other than that, erosion is of minimal concern.

The lot is rectangular, oriented east-west, with the wash running at a slight angle from north-south about a quarter of the way from the back property line.

How difficult and time-consuming is it to run my own fence? It's 168' straight across the back. I can mix concrete, use a post hole digger, etc...

If I can, and local code will allow it, I'd like to run the fence all the way back to the property line, which would bring the length of the run up to ~310'. This would involve going across the wash in two places. How would I be able to fence the wash itself to keep critters out and allow flood debris to pass through? The coyotes like to use it as their thoroughfare. As long as they're on the other side of the fence, they can do whatever the hell they please. That said, If I was able to run the fence all the way back, there are vacant lots to the back and sides that would allow the critters to go about their travels with a slight detour. I'm not particularly concerned about my dogs escaping, as they won't go anywhere unless I go with them.

Somethings are not worth doing yourself, this is one of them. Call the pros, I am sure they have did what you want to do 100 times.

I did a 240' run myself. Not terribly difficult - but that was over dead flat ground. No idea how you are going to fence a wash without creating a giant debris strainer.

I have hung cattle panels cut to fit the couture of the gully. I attach them under the normal fence like swing door. Most rain a debris will push thru it but animals go around. But if a yote wants to force it they could. Might work

I would run the fence over the wash and figure out something to hang below that. Any tips? The ground is otherwise almost entirely flat.



@mj1angier

Awesome. Have any pictures?

Running chainlink fencing is a breeze. 4" in the corners 2" every 10ft. Need stretcher bars on each corner with 3 stretcher clamps, Top Rail caps, 2" top rail, 3ea tie wire strips for each post. Optional is the reinforcement wire woven through top and bottom strand. A Fence Stretcher and come-a-long to stretch the fence.

When we ran fencing we only anchored the corners in concrete, the rest were pounded on with a post setter. Some will reinforce the corners with diagonal bar, it is up to you and more expensive. Some fencing companies will just dig the corner set the pipe, empty a bag of quick-crete and cover it with dirt
We made our own post setters but you get the idea If you do make your own try not to use rebar, it will eat up your hands:

Once you have the posts and rails set, drop the roll of fence, roll it out, add stretcher bar to one end and bolt into place with the clamps. Begin to lift the fence and loosely tie it as you lift to the top bar. You get to the corner approximate where the stretcher bar will be, insert it into the fence, hook stretcher and come-a-long and crank it tight.
The tighter the better but you do not want your corner post to bend. Now slip stretcher bar to the stretcher clamps and bolt it down.  During the stretch you will have to go along and unfasten the ties you used temporarily to hand the fence to the top bar as it moves past the posts and get hung up. Just re-tie as you go.

Once the fence is tight and clamped, untwist the top, unloop the bottom and unscrew the wire to separate the length of fencing to shorten. Save the waste as you can  use the opposite method if you need to stitch rolls together too.


Once the fence is hung, stretched and clamped tie the fence @ 3 places along the posts, every few feet on the top rail. It goes real fast. 1 person can hang fence but it really helps to have two, you also need an anchor point for the come-a-long, doesn't need much but you do need it. Wait to install the posts until after a good soaking rain. Hard ass ground is just that hard. Wet ground will allow the posts to slip in easy and quick, unless you hit rocks

Quick quiz: which is harder to climb tight fence or loose?

Loose. A fence with no topbar (just a reinforcement wire woven through the top) and fairly slack fencing swings and waves everywhere whereas a tight fence one can bounce right up and over, plus the rigidity aids in the climber as they try to access hand and foot holds while the topbar holds the climbers weight.

Chainlink fencing is easy to install.  Drive the posts and cut to length.  Special tools needed are post driver, pipe cutter, and a stretcher.

The ole "the moisture will find its way to the quik-crete" mantra!  I heard it plenty of times, and I guess it probably works OK.  I'd add the H2O myself though and mix it.

On the post drivers, when we make our's, we don't even weld "handles" on.  It's just a 2 1/2"ish OD pipe with one end capped.  Just holding onto the pipe when driving works great.

You folks are fucking great. Really doesn't seem like anything terribly complicated. Even a bogan like myself could handle it.

The concrete would definitely need water, and that hauling that from the spigot might be the most laborious task.

Remember to set the top of the footing a few inches below grade so you can cover with dirt and grow grass

No photos, it was at my old place. But this gives you the idea:
Attached File

Hah! You funny guy; I kill you last.

We get our yard sprayed for weeds; otherwise the invasive chamomile goes apeshit.



That helps a lot, actually. Gives me a starting point, anyway. I suppose I have a lot of latitude with such an apparatus, since it just needs to keep the critters out and let waterborne debris pass through.