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Posted: 1/15/2021 4:27:04 PM EDT
[#1]
Nursery supply
It tractor supply type place |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 4:27:56 PM EDT
[#2]
I’d start looking at FarmTek.
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Posted: 1/15/2021 5:20:37 PM EDT
[#3]
For those who have BT an DT, your recommendation:
Economy rounded sides, 20' wide x 72' long; $4100 Premium straight sides, 20' wide x 96' long; $7100 I don't have enough flat land where the greenhouse is going to have wider than 20' unless I move a lot of dirt. Is the extra 24' and straight sides worth the extra $3k? Can almost get 2 of the economy houses for the price of one premium. Family of 5, but I want extra, but I also have a few thousand sq ft of traditional garden space. Leaning toward the 72' economy. |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 10:54:46 PM EDT
[#4]
 Attached FileHere’s a 16ft wide one, about 7ft tall in the center. This is about 100ft long, built from a kit to fit between two larger greenhouses. My college roommate and I put it together in two weekends about 25 years ago. You lose upright working space on the sides. You can increase that by buying some chain link fence galvanized pipe and raising your sidewall 3 to 4ft. I wouldn’t buy anymore pre-bent hoops myself. We bend our own with a hand crank bender and use chain link fence pipe. Pull out your high school geometry book, figure out your length and your bend, figure out of you need a sidewall, bolt it together with carriage bolts. Let me take you in another super cheap direction.  Attached FileThis was a shade area with metal poles, 2x4’s and shade cloth. It sucked, but it was a lease and we didn’t want to take the metal poles down. So that’s 2” thin wall PVC pipe. The joint is at very top (middle). I don’t remember the dimensions. I keep it in a notebook in my office. We put a 4 year rated sheet in poly on it in October and take it off in May and store it. Those greenhouses have been in use over 20 years. So measure your skid loader, width and height, figure out how big you need it and then make sure you can easily order a piece of plastic to fit it. Remember you need 8 to 12” of extra plastic on each side to lock it down. |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 11:43:48 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/166748/1B03880B-DEB3-41CB-AA4A-DED1BF4AEF45_jpe-1781140.JPG Here's a 16ft wide one, about 7ft tall in the center. This is about 100ft long, built from a kit to fit between two larger greenhouses. My college roommate and I put it together in two weekends about 25 years ago. You lose upright working space on the sides. You can increase that by buying some chain link fence galvanized pipe and raising your sidewall 3 to 4ft. I wouldn't buy anymore pre-bent hoops myself. We bend our own with a hand crank bender and use chain link fence pipe. Pull out your high school geometry book, figure out your length and your bend, figure out of you need a sidewall, bolt it together with carriage bolts. Let me take you in another super cheap direction. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/166748/9A0C0223-7EDA-44D4-A643-B5C984FCF25C_jpe-1781159.JPG This was a shade area with metal poles, 2x4's and shade cloth. It sucked, but it was a lease and we didn't want to take the metal poles down. So that's 2" thin wall PVC pipe. The joint is at very top (middle). I don't remember the dimensions. I keep it in a notebook in my office. We put a 4 year rated sheet in poly on it in October and take it off in May and store it. Those greenhouses have been in use over 20 years. So measure your skid loader, width and height, figure out how big you need it and then make sure you can easily order a piece of plastic to fit it. Remember you need 8 to 12" of extra plastic on each side to lock it down. 
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Posted: 1/15/2021 11:56:03 PM EDT
[#6]
Other design considerations:
This will be taking the Minnesota north wind all winter, and probably deal with a snow load, if at all possible. One goal is to get a very early jump on the season, when we have a lot of sun, but I'm not sure if I can properly capitalize on that sun if I don't start with the plastic already on. Is it possible to leave the plastic on? |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 12:24:28 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Pipe like this? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/165887/Screenshot_20210115-214217-1781249.png Yep. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 12:43:35 AM EDT
[#8]
I’d probably stay closer to a maximum of 20ft wide and use like 4ft spacing on the hoops.
This one is probably 34+ foot wide, I don’t use it anymore. We got 14” of snow in 2010, didn’t heat this house and couldn’t brush all the snow off fast enough and it collapsed in the middle of the night. It’s rare to get that much snow, so we just don’t build them for that kind of load. But it was an easy fix and we had it put back together in a couple of days.  Attached File |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 12:52:56 AM EDT
[#9]
For the record, we didn’t built that one. It was already built on a nursery we purchased. You’ll notice it wasn’t the plastic that failed. Use good poly, not the cheap stuff.
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Posted: 1/16/2021 1:47:27 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yep. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Pipe like this? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/165887/Screenshot_20210115-214217-1781249.png Yep. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 3:59:37 AM EDT
[#11]
Good info from Joe mama. If it wasn’t mentioned get uv rated poly for covering. More money but lasts longer.
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Posted: 1/16/2021 10:55:18 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Is that diameter pipe sufficient for my mn needs? That 1-3/8 ought to be plenty for what you need unless you plan on hanging a couple hundred hanging baskets in there. My 16’ house is like 1” or 1-1/4”. Your hoop spacing is what’s going to improve your snow load. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:05:59 AM EDT
[#13]
https://www.amleo.com/ginegar-suncover-grow-film-4-yr-6-mil-clear-22-width/p/VP-SCOV22/
I don’t know if they sell to the general public, but they even custom cut stuff to size for me. But I was ordering like $8k worth at a time. You might have to stick to stock sizes. Store the leftover piece in a dark barn or garage and it will keep for a long time. Or sell it on Craigslist and get some of your money back. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:20:15 AM EDT
[#14]
In MN get a cathedral style hoop kit from Farmers Friend or Bootstrap Farmer. Have used both companies and pleased with both.
Cathedral will shed snow better, double wall plastic with inflation will work even better. Key will be positioning to block wind using natural wind blocks. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:54:55 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: In MN get a cathedral style hoop kit from Farmers Friend or Bootstrap Farmer. Have used both companies and pleased with both. Cathedral will shed snow better, double wall plastic with inflation will work even better. Key will be positioning to block wind using natural wind blocks. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 4:32:46 PM EDT
[#16]
get on the high tunnels for beginners group on fb, lors of good info.you may be able to get a grant to pay for it from the usda
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Posted: 1/16/2021 5:31:44 PM EDT
[#17]
morgan county seeds has a pretty good line of high tunnels and greenhouses.
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Posted: 1/16/2021 8:54:47 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/166748/1B03880B-DEB3-41CB-AA4A-DED1BF4AEF45_jpe-1781140.JPG So measure your skid loader, width and height, figure out how big you need it and then make sure you can easily order a piece of plastic to fit it. Remember you need 8 to 12” of extra plastic on each side to lock it down. This was my advice...build it so your skid loader can go in there. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 8:57:34 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: In MN get a cathedral style hoop kit from Farmers Friend or Bootstrap Farmer. Have used both companies and pleased with both. Cathedral will shed snow better, double wall plastic with inflation will work even better. Key will be positioning to block wind using natural wind blocks. I was going to say this...the gothic style will shed snow better and for you, that's a major consideration. I would not go with flat-sided greenhouses if you get much wind...especially winter wind. Curved surfaces deflect wind better, which of course you know. But the curved surface will reduce the strength you need in your materials for the greenhouse to withstand the wind. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 9:02:16 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/166748/1B03880B-DEB3-41CB-AA4A-DED1BF4AEF45_jpe-1781140.JPG Here’s a 16ft wide one, about 7ft tall in the center. This is about 100ft long, built from a kit to fit between two larger greenhouses. My college roommate and I put it together in two weekends about 25 years ago. You lose upright working space on the sides. You can increase that by buying some chain link fence galvanized pipe and raising your sidewall 3 to 4ft. I wouldn’t buy anymore pre-bent hoops myself. We bend our own with a hand crank bender and use chain link fence pipe. Pull out your high school geometry book, figure out your length and your bend, figure out of you need a sidewall, bolt it together with carriage bolts. Let me take you in another super cheap direction. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/166748/9A0C0223-7EDA-44D4-A643-B5C984FCF25C_jpe-1781159.JPG This was a shade area with metal poles, 2x4’s and shade cloth. It sucked, but it was a lease and we didn’t want to take the metal poles down. So that’s 2” thin wall PVC pipe. The joint is at very top (middle). I don’t remember the dimensions. I keep it in a notebook in my office. We put a 4 year rated sheet in poly on it in October and take it off in May and store it. Those greenhouses have been in use over 20 years. So measure your skid loader, width and height, figure out how big you need it and then make sure you can easily order a piece of plastic to fit it. Remember you need 8 to 12” of extra plastic on each side to lock it down. Do you use squirrel cage fans? And if so, how much you paying for one these days? Been too many years since I purchased. That air layer makes a huge difference in my opinion. Not sure whether the potential air barrier is important for OP. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 9:03:34 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’d probably stay closer to a maximum of 20ft wide and use like 4ft spacing on the hoops. This one is probably 34+ foot wide, I don’t use it anymore. We got 14” of snow in 2010, didn’t heat this house and couldn’t brush all the snow off fast enough and it collapsed in the middle of the night. It’s rare to get that much snow, so we just don’t build them for that kind of load. But it was an easy fix and we had it put back together in a couple of days. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/166748/F55782C2-C7E5-4722-91AF-9506E2407762_jpe-1781333.JPG Holy CRAP! 14" of snow where YOU are? That's a little scary. Did you save that crop? |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 9:56:19 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Do you use squirrel cage fans? And if so, how much you paying for one these days? Been too many years since I purchased. That air layer makes a huge difference in my opinion. Not sure whether the potential air barrier is important for OP. Some we do, some we don’t. eBay or Grainger, usually $80 -$120 ea |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 9:57:39 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Holy CRAP! 14" of snow where YOU are? That's a little scary. Did you save that crop? It was all sempervivum in that greenhouse. It didn’t matter how cold it got, we just needed to keep the rain and ice off them. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 10:28:01 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It was all sempervivum in that greenhouse. It didn’t matter how cold it got, we just needed to keep the rain and ice off them. 
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Posted: 1/17/2021 11:06:58 AM EDT
[#25]
For putting my bobcat in there, with permanent raised beds, what general purposes would it serve?
It can be done, but I would need a 5 foot wide center walkway. |
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Posted: 1/17/2021 12:56:13 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: For putting my bobcat in there, with permanent raised beds, what general purposes would it serve? It can be done, but I would need a 5 foot wide center walkway. I will say, having worked with a ton of high tunnel producers, raised beds suck. to have to do everything manually, they limit your irrigation and crop rotation options, they are expensive to install, hard to change out soil it, hard to till, limit your growing hight for trellised things.and they will be harder to keep warm in cold weather. |
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Posted: 1/17/2021 1:04:31 PM EDT
[#27]
I am in N Idaho and completed a 14'x20' greenhouse earlier in the fall to house my chickens and ducks over the winter. I bought the 1 3/8” top rails mentioned above and I used bending jigs and hardware that I picked up from Johnny Seeds. I had a couple videos up up the build process, but I closed my YouTube Channel and the videos came down.
I will edit this and upload a few pics of the build that are on my phone. I just went through a huge windstorm up here and the greenhouse did not budge. It is not wide enough for the snow load to be a problem as it sheds it regularly.  Attached File Attached File Attached FileThe plastic I used was a 6 mil 20x100’ reinforced plastic that I picked up locally for about $200. The total build cost was well under a $1000 but I did pick up the jigs and hardware several year before I actually built it. |
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Posted: 1/17/2021 2:08:22 PM EDT
[#28]
Regarding using galvanized pipe:
I ran a wholesale fencing supply for 20 years. The fence industry uses pipe OD for their reference. All of the normal fencing pipe is structural pipe, not water pipe. Sometimes water pipe is used in fencing, such as schedule 40 posts for wood fencing or on heavy industrial chain link. What you want is structural pipe because schedule 40 pipe while thicker, does not have the ability to flex and return to straight. It holds straight for a long time and then bends permanently. 1-3/8" OD galvanized fence pipe is available in these wall thickness : .035, .047, .055, .065, .072-.080, .090, and thicker up to a schedule 40 thickness that I forget. The normal length is 10"6", 21' and sometimes 24'. One of the ends will normally be swedged (not swaged) so that they can be connected together by sliding one into the other a few inches. I had a guy who build greenhouses all over the country. I sold him a ton of 1-3/8" OD galvanized tube x .065 wall thickness x 21' long and 24' long. If I was going to build a greenhouse, that is what I would start with. YMMV |
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Posted: 1/17/2021 5:59:16 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I will say, having worked with a ton of high tunnel producers, raised beds suck. to have to do everything manually, they limit your irrigation and crop rotation options, they are expensive to install, Koo hard to change out soil it, hard to till, limit your growing hight for trellised things.and they will be harder to keep warm in cold weather. Could always start with no raised beds, add some later if I want to. |
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Posted: 1/18/2021 3:54:44 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Hmm, lots of food for thought. Could always start with no raised beds, add some later if I want to. I have some friends who are commercial producers here, all "sustainable"--most completely organic, but not 100 percent. They don't use raised beds because their greenhouses/high tunnels become less flexible as tools/growing space for them. And they use a tractor in their greenhouses when they can. (Can't always, and I think in the high tunnel, they cannot. I need to ask them about this. Will buy veggies this weekend, so will try to remember.) Now I think it depends on what you want, but my thinking was...if you grow in the ground you could use that teeny skid steer to haul in amendments and such. and you could use your little tractor to till if necessary. The one thing you get with that equipment, though, is compaction. I personally don't think a five-foot aisle in there is too bad, because you need at least three feet to work comfortably with a wheelbarrow, but this is a philosophy/personal choice/situational choice for your particular setup.. Of course you give up something to get the other thing, and it may be that once your beds are established, you won't really need to change out soil, and with raised beds, you will have zero compaction. IF YOU GET DISEASE that needs a soil switchout, then you've got a lot of work. And when you add amendments (compost, etc) you will be doing quite a bit of hand work. But maybe not so much that the skid steer makes sense for you, given what you will lose by using it. |
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Posted: 1/18/2021 4:40:20 PM EDT
[#31]
That little skiddy is so darn handy for little areas like that. If giving myself a 5' center aisle lets me use the skiddy instead of more work by hand, that sounds like a smart move if the whole unit is wide enough to not loose too much.
I'm not sure I'd use my garden tractor in the greenhouse or not. I don't "till", but I plow/harrow, and I'd waste a lot of area in there making headlands, unless I make it where both ends open up completely, which I'd like to avoid. Tillers for my series tractor are very expensive, and I'd rather not invest in one. I theory I could get a small tiller for my skiddy, but I'm not sure I have the aux hydraulics to do it (low PSI, low flo). However, it is on my "to do" list to install a secondary hydraulic system just for the aux as I could run a blower, tiller, post digger, etc. Lots of stuff that I don't have the hydro power to do now. I was planning on all air flowing through there to run through even a rather course filter. Reason is to keep insects/seeds out. I would look into an electric tiller though. Electric so I don't have to breathe in all the fumes  .Would the double layer insulated poly be worth it for me since I live in MN? |
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Posted: 1/18/2021 11:53:11 PM EDT
[#32]
Anyone build a greenhouse with windows and a wood frame?I have a bunch of windows my buddy replaced and I’m going to change a few on my house. Would it work?
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Posted: 1/19/2021 10:53:34 AM EDT
[#33]
I have seen folks building raised beds to the size of an old window used on top of them.
It seems to work well if the side of the complete window is hinged so it can be moved out of the way as needed. Another nice thing is that you can raise and lower the window for airflow. |
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Posted: 1/19/2021 11:30:34 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Anyone build a greenhouse with windows and a wood frame?I have a bunch of windows my buddy replaced and I’m going to change a few on my house. Would it work? People do it all the time. Just figure out how many you need. I'd probably cover the roof and the bottom 3 ft with polycarbonate. Use the windows around all 4 sides. |
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Posted: 1/19/2021 11:31:10 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I am in N Idaho and completed a 14'x20' greenhouse earlier in the fall to house my chickens and ducks over the winter. I bought the 1 3/8” top rails mentioned above and I used bending jigs and hardware that I picked up from Johnny Seeds. I had a couple videos up up the build process, but I closed my YouTube Channel and the videos came down. I will edit this and upload a few pics of the build that are on my phone. I just went through a huge windstorm up here and the greenhouse did not budge. It is not wide enough for the snow load to be a problem as it sheds it regularly. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/384426/9803E456-1E5C-405C-9560-EE9F86E9FB42_jpe-1783450.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/384426/004B2E44-3D5C-41DB-BF30-9D69D67CF276_jpe-1783454.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/384426/961EF939-FBAE-434A-8B2C-FD0F64FDCE0E_jpe-1783456.JPG The plastic I used was a 6 mil 20x100’ reinforced plastic that I picked up locally for about $200. The total build cost was well under a $1000 but I did pick up the jigs and hardware several year before I actually built it. How do you like the chickshaw? Thinking about building one. |
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Posted: 1/19/2021 11:53:32 AM EDT
[#36]
I have a "trial" garden that's around 40' wide and about 75' long, can't say that I've done everything I want to do in it, still needs a ton of work to look like anything, but we put in a small vegetable plot in one corner, tulips across the front in the Spring, a few Texas hill country plants like Blackfoot daisy and a few shade plants in another corner, like inland sea oats, ajuga, etc.
It's fenced and we can take the fence down to get a tractor in there, but we don't unless we have to (3 years ago we had to remove a dead tree.) I bought a $200 walk behind tiller off Craiglist and that's pretty much the only thing that goes in there. I think anytime you impose restrictions on your plot, either by structure or fence or irrigation, there's just a certain amount of hand work that you're going to have to accept. In the grand scheme of things, a 24' x 60' high tunnel isn't completely unmanageable by hand. Whatever implements you can manage with a skid steer would be helpful, but I think there's always going to be a certain amount of handwork that you're going to need to accept. My parents spent many summer days out in a field in Texas with gardening hoes chopping weeds out of cotton fields in the 1950's and 60's. They survived. My mother will be 73 this year, she still get out there on her hands and knees working on her assorted gardens and flower beds. My grandmothers did the same well into their 80's. I'm not saying that you're lazy. And I'm pretty sure you can weld up some creative implements for your skid steer to help you out, but working inside a small confined space- it is what it is. Like fighting in a basement. |
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Posted: 1/19/2021 12:04:22 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have a "trial" garden that's around 40' wide and about 75' long, can't say that I've done everything I want to do in it, still needs a ton of work to look like anything, but we put in a small vegetable plot in one corner, tulips across the front in the Spring, a few Texas hill country plants like Blackfoot daisy and a few shade plants in another corner, like inland sea oats, ajuga, etc. It's fenced and we can take the fence down to get a tractor in there, but we don't unless we have to (3 years ago we had to remove a dead tree.) I bought a $200 walk behind tiller off Craiglist and that's pretty much the only thing that goes in there. I think anytime you impose restrictions on your plot, either by structure or fence or irrigation, there's just a certain amount of hand work that you're going to have to accept. In the grand scheme of things, a 24' x 60' high tunnel isn't completely unmanageable by hand. Whatever implements you can manage with a skid steer would be helpful, but I think there's always going to be a certain amount of handwork that you're going to need to accept. My parents spent many summer days out in a field in Texas with gardening hoes chopping weeds out of cotton fields in the 1950's and 60's. They survived. My mother will be 73 this year, she still get out there on her hands and knees working on her assorted gardens and flower beds. My grandmothers did the same well into their 80's. I'm not saying that you're lazy. And I'm pretty sure you can weld up some creative implements for your skid steer to help you out, but working inside a small confined space- it is what it is. Like fighting in a basement. Thus far, we have been gardening traditionally. I have that down to about 3-4 hours of work per week to maintain on average, and we run a decently large garden. The damn thistles are kicking my ass of recent though. Have to be out there twice a week to cut them down with the wire hoe. |
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Posted: 1/19/2021 12:14:43 PM EDT
[#38]
 Attached FileMy grandfather had a couple of these that he welded together out of old junk and a bicycle tire. I wish I had one of his originals. His had a single cultivator sweep on the bottom. 8th grade education, he'd see something in a catalog and go build it. |
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Posted: 1/19/2021 12:18:49 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/166748/cultivator_jpg-1786423.JPG My grandfather had a couple of these that he welded together out of old junk and a bicycle tire. I wish I had one of his originals. His had a single cultivator sweep on the bottom. 8th grade education, he'd see something in a catalog and go build it. ETA: Awesome that your Grandfather would/could make that stuff. My Grandfather was much the same. Luckily, a lot of that attitude was passed down, even got as far as to me. Of course, not only do we have welders, 3D printer goes brrrrr 
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Posted: 1/19/2021 5:45:06 PM EDT
[#40]
Most people use tractor to move compost in and out, but till with a 24 or 36 inch small tiller. So you don't need a big center path when growing just a big door for once a year access.
Maine nrcs says 1.66 14 gauge less then 26 feet wide 1.9 14gauge 26-30ft. |
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Posted: 1/19/2021 11:47:41 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That little skiddy is so darn handy for little areas like that. If giving myself a 5' center aisle lets me use the skiddy instead of more work by hand, that sounds like a smart move if the whole unit is wide enough to not loose too much. I'm not sure I'd use my garden tractor in the greenhouse or not. I don't "till", but I plow/harrow, and I'd waste a lot of area in there making headlands, unless I make it where both ends open up completely, which I'd like to avoid. Tillers for my series tractor are very expensive, and I'd rather not invest in one. I theory I could get a small tiller for my skiddy, but I'm not sure I have the aux hydraulics to do it (low PSI, low flo). However, it is on my "to do" list to install a secondary hydraulic system just for the aux as I could run a blower, tiller, post digger, etc. Lots of stuff that I don't have the hydro power to do now. I was planning on all air flowing through there to run through even a rather course filter. Reason is to keep insects/seeds out. I would look into an electric tiller though. Electric so I don't have to breathe in all the fumes .Would the double layer insulated poly be worth it for me since I live in MN? For me, the further north you go, the more useful it is to have two layers and the squirrel cage fan. HOWEVER....I could be double damn dead wrong about that, and you should research it. The small bit of electricity it takes to run that fan is small beans compared to the insulative value you get for the time you are growing. That's my take on it. @joemama74 |
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Posted: 1/19/2021 11:52:09 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The work doesn't bother me so much, but one of my goals is to automate as much as possible, just because my time is valuable. My thought is if I fully automate the irrigation and filter the air flow (to prevent seeds/insects), that will cut back the vast majority of the maintenance outside of planting/harvesting. Thus far, we have been gardening traditionally. I have that down to about 3-4 hours of work per week to maintain on average, and we run a decently large garden. The damn thistles are kicking my ass of recent though. Have to be out there twice a week to cut them down with the wire hoe. Following on this post...I was gonna post my own "you just need a decent rear-tine tiller" bit... But this likely covers it. I think the craigslist tiller and a dump cart or three, with your kids to help, will do all the same stuff, for half the trouble, as having your skid steer in the greenhouse. I traded a buddy a couple of lawn treatments last year, for a tiller he'd used like...twice. It's a cheap tiller, but functional for now, and it has saved me time and made me money.. ( I still want a good old-style tiller.) |
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Posted: 1/19/2021 11:53:10 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: How do you like the chickshaw? Thinking about building one. This is my third one! I love em! |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 12:15:35 AM EDT
[#44]
My fil has an older Troy built tiller.
One of the older good ones that are built like a tank He is wanting to get rid of it. I may have to buy it off of him for greenhouse duty. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 12:17:42 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My fil has an older Troy built tiller. One of the older good ones that are built like a tank He is wanting to get rid of it. I may have to buy it off of him for greenhouse duty. YES. Do it. Get that tiller. |
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Posted: 1/21/2021 3:13:24 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: For me, the further north you go, the more useful it is to have two layers and the squirrel cage fan. HOWEVER....I could be double damn dead wrong about that, and you should research it. The small bit of electricity it takes to run that fan is small beans compared to the insulative value you get for the time you are growing. That's my take on it. @joemama74 If you're going to heat the house, yes. If you're running it cold, I dunno if I would bother. We figure on a 10 - 15 degree temperature differential on night temps. So at 4am, if it's 25 degrees outside, it's 35 degrees inside. If it's 15 degrees outside, you're not heating and your plants aren't cold hardy, you're in trouble. If you're sitting at 0 for day after day with cloudy weather, your greenhouse is going to create 0 heat. Frost blankets can help, but you're gonna have to bring something to the table for heat at some point if you need to maintain some kind of minimum temperature for your plant. Just depends on what your growing. |
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Posted: 1/23/2021 12:21:29 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you're going to heat the house, yes. If you're running it cold, I dunno if I would bother. We figure on a 10 - 15 degree temperature differential on night temps. So at 4am, if it's 25 degrees outside, it's 35 degrees inside. If it's 15 degrees outside, you're not heating and your plants aren't cold hardy, you're in trouble. If you're sitting at 0 for day after day with cloudy weather, your greenhouse is going to create 0 heat. Frost blankets can help, but you're gonna have to bring something to the table for heat at some point if you need to maintain some kind of minimum temperature for your plant. Just depends on what your growing. around here where we do go below zero most people use low tunnels inside the high tunnel in winter. still not gonna keep warm stuff alive, but greens etc do ok. slow growth do to photoperiod though |
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Posted: 1/23/2021 1:29:46 AM EDT
[#48]
I laid my claim to the tiller today
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