Liability insurance is pretty cheap. Don't leave home without it. You can probably get a historical vehicle plate and get insurance even cheaper. Get an on road plate and then get the off road sticker. No smog will be required.
I went to MVD to sort out my OHV/ATV. No way it would work on line, their computer system is a piece of shit. Don't ask them too many questions and don't confuse them. Decide on exactly what you need before you go in and be specific. Take more paperwork and info than you think you will need. Only give them what they ask for.
The end cost was much cheaper for on and off road plates/stickers than what I was seeing on line.
That is the only trip to MVD I have made in 15 years. I was pissed that I had to set foot in that vile place, but kept my cool and things went pretty smooth.
I have a horn, turn signals, mirrors, one brake light, and my vehicle has not been inspected. Cops don't even look our way and we drive it all around a busy substation, including through their parking lot. I have an on and off road plate and full coverage insurance and it is pretty damn cheap.