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Posted: 4/24/2020 1:01:06 PM EDT
They hurt to shoot unless you stick gigantic rubber stocks on them.
To me that defeats the purpose of a small, marginal caliber gun. The are hard to consistently be accurate with. I’ve owned at least half a dozen. Mostly Centennials, a couple with external hammers. Airweights, Airlites, .357, .38... I’ve tried every stock imaginable. Wood, rubber, G10, large, small. Sold my 20 year old, no lock 642 last year. Swore I was done with the little beasts. Now I’m waiting for a 437 to be delivered. Either I’m not too bright, I need help, or both. |
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Buy Tyler grip adapters, and a lot of your issues will disappear.
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Quoted: Buy Tyler grip adapters, and a lot of your issues will disappear. View Quote |
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I have a chopped Houge wrap around on my 442. I broke my thumb in highschool and the bone pokes into the web of my hand. It gets agitated if I shoot a few cylinders. The chopped grip takes care of pain and it disappears in a pocket. For me it's about getting it out of a pants pocket on duty. Most semi autos are square and I can't get them out quickly. I like the one I have, it's light and small enough to put in a gym shorts pocket.
Grip mod. |
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I'm in the same boat. Huge Smith fan, own a lot of them. Have owned a handful of J frames over the years and for some reason I never keep them. Handy to carry. Not much fun to shoot.
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The pistol is a big compromise over a long gun, the j-frame is a big compromise over most any other pistol. It is optimized for ease of carry/concealment. The trigger pull can be more than 10 times the weight of the gun, sights are often not very good (the 340 I have does have good ones, I wish they were standard), sight radius is very short, capacity is low, recoil is significant.
To me, the j-frame is best as a gun light enough to carry all the time, everywhere - it's an always gun. I use LG105 lasergrips on mine, which help a lot for low light purposes and trigger control practice. They're not much bigger than the smallest j-frame grips, and they have rubber padding on the back to absorb recoil - works well with specials, but I'm not sure any amount of padding makes magnums comfortable in a gun that weighs under a pound fully loaded. |
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For me, Model 60’s are fine to shoot. Not the funnest gun, but not painful either. Recently got my first 642, I was worried it would be a bear to shoot but it took 50 rounds before I started noticing any discomfort/numbness with the stock rubbers. I was getting consistent hits at 10 and 15 yards so it’s been my daily carry since. I’m gunna shell out for the VZ grips since they appear to be the most ‘hand filling’ for a boot grip.
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Quoted: I have a chopped Houge wrap around on my 442. I broke my thumb in highschool and the bone pokes into the web of my hand. It gets agitated if I shoot a few cylinders. The chopped grip takes care of pain and it disappears in a pocket. For me it's about getting it out of a pants pocket on duty. Most semi autos are square and I can't get them out quickly. I like the one I have, it's light and small enough to put in a gym shorts pocket. Grip mod. View Quote I saw your grip mod when you posted it on the pistol forum. Excellent thinking outside the box! |
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Quoted: Buy Tyler grip adapters, and a lot of your issues will disappear. View Quote Not really but thanks for the suggestion. ?? Attached File |
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Quoted: Sounds like you need to get a 640 or 60 View Quote Got one of the 640s back when AIM had them cheap. Not sure why I bought it. If I’m going to carry that much weight I’ll carry a Glock. Sold it. Attached File |
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LCR is the best bet for us guys with big hands.
I can shoot a J-frame well only if I put Pachmyr grips on it. Stock grips murder my hands worse than my S&W .500 does. |
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Quoted: The pistol is a big compromise over a long gun, the j-frame is a big compromise over most any other pistol. It is optimized for ease of carry/concealment. The trigger pull can be more than 10 times the weight of the gun, sights are often not very good (the 340 I have does have good ones, I wish they were standard), sight radius is very short, capacity is low, recoil is significant. To me, the j-frame is best as a gun light enough to carry all the time, everywhere - it's an always gun. I use LG105 lasergrips on mine, which help a lot for low light purposes and trigger control practice. View Quote Well said. Instead of agonizing over my next one, I’m going to shoot a few rounds from 5 yards, make sure I can make hits from there and just carry it. I’ve had several sets of LG405s. They do a great job of recoil control but I never wanted to rely on the laser and hated the idea of paying $250 for just the grip. On Pistolforum or Smith-Wesson forum one, a lot of people use Taurus grips. Never tried that, but I have thought about it. |
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I have a model 638 Airweight I pocket carry sometimes and I wasn't happy with how "grabby" the stock rubber grips were on clothing.
I put a set of wood S&W grips on it and that solved the problem but they made it more uncomfortable to shoot. I just got a Tyler T grip from a member here and they make a big difference to me anyway, Much less bite from the trigger guard. |
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Quoted: I have a model 638 Airweight I pocket carry sometimes and I wasn't happy with how "grabby" the stock rubber grips were on clothing. I put a set of wood S&W grips on it and that solved the problem but they made it more uncomfortable to shoot. I just got a Tyler T grip from a member here and they make a big difference to me anyway, Much less bite from the trigger guard. View Quote |
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Shoot wadcutters, it will change everything you hate about them.
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Handload.
Load some light ammo and good at shooting it then work up in power level. |
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W/ 115 grn WWB FMJ the SP101 is a light rubber hammer smack. Need bigger grips for it.
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My 437 Airweight should be here Tuesday.
My plan is to take it the range with 5 or 6 different grips. I’m going to try to make myself like one of them. I’m hoping I can tolerate the Service grips with the BK adapter that are on the Centennial in the picture I posted earlier. I really like the old school look. |
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Standard pressure loads are the way to go with J frames imo. Semi wadcutter loads are not too punishing and straight paper punching wad cutters are fairly mild and were considered to be a decent SD bullet in snub guns for many years.
I'm not convinced that the +P loads do much in the short barrel guns other than adding muzzle blast and upping the misery index for the shooter. |
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The steel framed ones are a lot less painful. I don't mind my Mod 36.
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Get an all STEEL j frame not an airweight. Huge difference in shooting comfort and doesn’t change carry ability much. I have never and likely will never own airweights.
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My 442 is very pleasant to shoot with 115 grain WWB. I shot the last few boxes of mine I had. The +P 125 gr Remington I have in it now has a bit more punch but is still very manageable with the wrap around grip.
Rubber Hogue Grip works very nicely when chopped down. |
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Quoted: Get an all STEEL j frame not an airweight. Huge difference in shooting comfort and doesn’t change carry ability much. I have never and likely will never own airweights. View Quote I agree. I have two 60-7 and a 649. I can handle shooting them for a bit if I use +p loads but regular loads make the guns a pussycat. I think I'll carry one of them later today. |
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Quoted: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/84655/IMG_20200309_142907_jpg-1386811.JPG 115 grn FMJ 9x19mm is a smart smack in the hand. I need bigger grips. View Quote What's the story with your trigger/hammer setup? |
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Quoted: Get an all STEEL j frame not an airweight. Huge difference in shooting comfort and doesn't change carry ability much. I have never and likely will never own airweights. View Quote |
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I just got a Smith 642 .
I own multiple model 10s so I wanted a hammer but this deal was too good to pass up . My daughter shot it ( 642) and hit a coffee can 4 out of 5 at 25 feet . I need practice but am liking it so far . Small n easy in my pocket . Speed loaders coming . 3 just like Dirty Harry . Ha |
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The J frame is capable of amazing accuracy out of the box. I have seen machine rest groups well under 4" at 100 yards fired myself. So it's not the gun, but the very small sights and short sight radius that make it difficult to shoot well. The pin on front sights help a lot, and a few examples have been fitted with larger sights, and S&W even sells a Performance Center 640 with a set of Novack looking sights that is huge improvement.
When compared to the Kimber K6 and the new Colt Cobra revolvers, these two both have better sights than the stock J frames, with the biggest advantage going to the Kimber in this case. J frames with proper training, and decent grips, are very effective if you practice with them a lot. They make great non-permissive environment guns and we should all carry at least one no matter what other guns you are carrying at the time, I do daily. A speed strip makes a great way to carry a reload. The USAF survival school mantra of two is one and one is none is true. |
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I’m The same way OP, I finally
Got a G48 and let my jframe go. Breathe and move on! Lol |
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I'm fairly accurate with all my J-frames. I stage the trigger on the DAO ones & that seems to help precise shot taking.
I've got probably a half-dozen of them by now. Blued, stainless, hammerless, bodyguard. Damn good guns. |
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Quoted: What's the story with your trigger/hammer setup? View Quote Waiting for Ruger to say they're open so I can ship it to em and they can just tweak the lug engagement on one of the cylinders. And stop the hammer pin from rotating out of the slot, and keep one of the cylinders from desperately trying to collect fired cases. |
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Quoted: The J frame is capable of amazing accuracy out of the box. I have seen machine rest groups well under 4" at 100 yards fired myself. So it's not the gun, but the very small sights and short sight radius that make it difficult to shoot well. The pin on front sights help a lot, and a few examples have been fitted with larger sights, and S&W even sells a Performance Center 640 with a set of Novack looking sights that is huge improvement. When compared to the Kimber K6 and the new Colt Cobra revolvers, these two both have better sights than the stock J frames, with the biggest advantage going to the Kimber in this case. J frames with proper training, and decent grips, are very effective if you practice with them a lot. They make great non-permissive environment guns and we should all carry at least one no matter what other guns you are carrying at the time, I do daily. A speed strip makes a great way to carry a reload. The USAF survival school mantra of two is one and one is none is true. View Quote The tiny light modern .32s & .380s make better non-permissive environment guns. Snubbies make more sense up north where you can fire them from your coat pocket through your long winter; I get about 3 months of coat weather, and then the revolver goes back to the safe. I'm thinking a Glock 26 mag will be my "speed strip". |
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Quoted: The tiny light modern .32s & .380s make better non-permissive environment guns. Snubbies make more sense up north where you can fire them from your coat pocket through your long winter; I get about 3 months of coat weather, and then the revolver goes back to the safe. I'm thinking a Glock 26 mag will be my "speed strip". View Quote I understand your sentiment, and the small autos are flatter. The place where the revolver excels is in close combat. If you make a contact shot with a semi-auto, 99 times out of 100 it will fail to return into battery for a follow up shot. With a revolver, you can almost always keep shooting on contact shots. I personally know more than a few people who have survived those kinds of fights because they had five or six shot sub nosed revolvers as either their primary, or backup gun with them at the time. US Air Force survival school mantra...two is one and one is none. |
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Quoted: I understand your sentiment, and the small autos are flatter. The place where the revolver excels is in close combat. If you make a contact shot with a semi-auto, 99 times out of 100 it will fail to return into battery for a follow up shot. With a revolver, you can almost always keep shooting on contact shots. I personally know more than a few people who have survived those kinds of fights because they had five or six shot sub nosed revolvers as either their primary, or backup gun with them at the time. US Air Force survival school mantra...two is one and one is none. View Quote Oh goodie - story time! More than a few stories, to boot. |
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Quoted: Waiting for Ruger to say they're open so I can ship it to em and they can just tweak the lug engagement on one of the cylinders. And stop the hammer pin from rotating out of the slot, and keep one of the cylinders from desperately trying to collect fired cases. View Quote Dang, I hope they treat you right, their CS is pretty good from my own experience and from what I've read. I love my little SP101 in 357. The trigger is incredible. I wonder if Ruger polishes up the trigger groups of their DAO pistols because this trigger is sooo smooth. Please keep us posted on what they do for you. Good luck. |
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Quoted: Dang, I hope they treat you right, their CS is pretty good from my own experience and from what I've read. I love my little SP101 in 357. The trigger is incredible. I wonder if Ruger polishes up the trigger groups of their DAO pistols because this trigger is sooo smooth. Please keep us posted on what they do for you. Good luck. View Quote I'm sure they'll fix it as soon as I ship it them. My trigger is horrid in DA. Have ordered some springs from Mcarbo for it. |
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Quoted: I'm sure they'll fix it as soon as I ship it them. My trigger is horrid in DA. Have ordered some springs from Mcarbo for it. View Quote LOL, that's why I wonder about mine. I have a Security Six with a HEAVY da pull. I mean, it's almost impossible to shoot it with any accuracy that way. And I'm no pansie when it comes to trigger pulls. |
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Quoted: The tiny light modern .32s & .380s make better non-permissive environment guns. Snubbies make more sense up north where you can fire them from your coat pocket through your long winter; I get about 3 months of coat weather, and then the revolver goes back to the safe. I'm thinking a Glock 26 mag will be my "speed strip". View Quote I carried a 27 and then a 26 for years as a BUG to a 22/19. They carried fine in a front pocket but even with practice I had a difficult time getting them out. The J-frame comes right out when you grab it. It excess in that role for me. No argument from me that smaller semi-autos generally out class small wheel guns but they still have a place. |
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I don't know why, there's just something sexy to me about a classic s&w snub nose but I just shoot so much better with something like a glock 43 or p365
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I'm in a similar position, but for different reasons.
I actually don't mind shooting the J-frames at all. I've just never found a comfortable way to carry them. I'm not a huge pocket carry fan, and I haven't found a comfortable belt holster despite trying/buying at least a dozen different holsters over the years. I've sold off all my J-frames except a 442, and I only keep it because I feel like I should own one J-frame. |
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Originally Posted By MyWar: I'm in a similar position, but for different reasons. I actually don't mind shooting the J-frames at all. I've just never found a comfortable way to carry them. I'm not a huge pocket carry fan, and I haven't found a comfortable belt holster despite trying/buying at least a dozen different holsters over the years. I've sold off all my J-frames except a 442, and I only keep it because I feel like I should own one J-frame. View Quote I used a Galco Combat Master style when I carried one. Yeah, it's OWB but it conceals easy enough. I've never found them comfortable for pocket carry and they print horribly unless I'm wearing baggy pants (which I don't like) and for whatever reason I just never thought they rode quite right IWB. For the last ten or so years it's primarily ridden in a camera pouch on the waistbelts of my packs or the deckbag of my kayak. Nothing in the woods around here that a .38 shouldn't handle and I like the light weight and the ability to load a CCI shotshell as the first round when paddling or in the swamp. |
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