I scored a Taurus model 94 off armslist. While not quite the deal or quality as something @1srelluc seems to score in the pawn shops I think I did pretty well.

$120 (plus transfer ) got me a nice deep blued 4” da/sa 9 shot gun with two sets of stocks and adjustable sights.

The catch is it was missing the hand plunger and spring, the cylinder stop plunger and spring, and the stock pin. I did take it apart completely last night and thankfully no one has tried a trigger job or messed with anything else.

I’m going to make a pin for it for around $1, and I scored the rest of the parts of fleabay for $50.



There’s the frame stripped of everything except the cylinder stop and the latch/bolt assembly.

I had one a few years ago, a Model 94 5” with a full underlug. It was miserable to shoot because of how front heavy it was. Despite the heavy rimfire DA trigger it was def minute of soda can inside of 25 yards and minute of “soda jug” inside 50 yds. My “new” one balances a lot more nicely in the hand without that underlug and a shorter barrel.

How about y’all? Any Taurus rimfires?

Looking forward to the pics.  I've been wanting a .22lr revolver for a while, but other bills got in the way of getting one.

Update April 21

Got the stock pin installed. I purchased a roll pin from Lowes, $0.96 out the door for two of ‘em. 0.125” x 0.750”, my measurements of the frame showed it is 0.340” thick, and the holes in the stocks are 0.19” deep, so the pin needs to be about 0.720” long. I made it just a little shorter at 0.710” because it is nigh impossible to get it set perfectly. Test fit with the factory stocks was perfect.



I have decided to sell the wood stocks the gun came with. I don’t think the Taurus overmolded stocks are beautiful, but they have always fit my hands well and are comfortable (even on a UltraLite 38 running +P) so I’m going to roll with those for now.

It does not look too different from my 4" Interarms Rossi M-511 SS Sportsman. Both are more or less kinda-sorta S&W kit guns.

I replaced the stocks with a set of walnut Eagle stocks for a S&W I frame. I had to alter them slightly on the inside to fit but the .50" of extra grip on the bottom made a world of difference how the revolver shoots for me.

In fact it's the only set of finger-groove stocks that has ever suited me.

Attached File


Good luck with your project.

Thanks, need all the luck I can get when dealing with a Brazilian gun.

I like the red insert in the sight ramp, may end up painting mine for some contrast.

That Rossi has more of the S&W look with a shrouded ejector too, on the Taurus it is exposed.

I bought my son a Model 94 blue 4” for his twenty first birthday.   It has a pretty heavy double action trigger pull but it is smooth and improved with use.  I adjusted the rear sight for windage and did not realize you had to tighten the screw on the opposite side.  He lost the rear sight blade but I was able to fit a Ruger semi auto Mark I/II sight.  Taurus will not sell just the blade and the rear sight assembly was just to expensive.

A few years ago I bought a used stainless steel model 94.  It has a decent double action trigger but would fail to fire on at least three chambers when firing DA.   The cylinder wasn’t machined square so I had my FFL dealer ship the model to Taurus for repair.   The work order said the DA trigger had been modified but didn’t mention anything about replacing the cylinder.   The cylinder had obviously been replaced and the revolver now functions 100% now.   I like the size of the model 94 and picked up a few HKS speed loaders.   Being retired LEO who carried DA revolvers I still enjoy shooting DA revolvers.   I carried S&W K frame revolvers on duty and found a model 18 for a good price.  I shoot the model 94 SS more than the S&W but the S&W is an heirloom now that I want to pass onto one of my Grandsons.

Op, be sure to update the forum on your progress.   Looks like you might end up with a dandy shooter.

@VASCAR2 thanks for the tip on the sight, I’ll be careful with it and bring some blue loctite to make sure the screws stay in once I establish zero.

The hand plunger and spring came today. Got the guts all cleaned, relubed, and reassembled this evening. I much prefer working on a Taurus to a S&W, the hand spring is much less trouble, and the rebound spring is also a lot easier to handle.



Sideplate on, I like the unthreaded end of the screws for the sideplate. Makes getting them started correctly really easy.



Back together again, minus the cylinder stop plunger and spring, those should  be here in a couple days.

I have never had a full size frame rimfire revolver of any kind, but the 96 certainly looks interesting. The limiting factor in .22 DA guns seems to be the trigger pull, got to have some heavy springs compared to a centerfire gun.

If someone could crack the code of a K/L frame sized six shot rimfire gun with a pull matching its centerfire cousins that would be one hell of training gun. With a 2.5” barrel that would really sweet

I found a NOS six round cylinder for a 94, not sure it is worth $80 though. Maybe I’ll pick it up down the road after I get this one working.

Also going to dig through the speedloader bin at the LGS and see if I can find a couple for this thing.

Now you have made me think. Suppose one were to acquire a hammer, and modify it so that it could accept different amounts of mass, and get a set of differently weighted springs. Then some tuning could be done, hopefully arriving at the desired result.

Of course there is no free lunch, and with more mass and less spring you increase lock time. Question is, is that increase in lock time enough that it causes issues...

Edit: Apex Tactical does in fact make a heavy hammer for the rimfire S&W K frame.

Edit: Upon further review Apex Tactical’s hammer is in fact lighter than stock and dao only, but due to mass being moved to where it is needed it hits harder with a lighter spring...  Mass Driver hammer

I got the cylinder stop plunger installed today.

The one I got off fleabay was the right diameter, but the shaft was too long. A couple of cuts and some file work brought it to an appropriate length and now I have a complete functioning revolver.



I ran through a complete function test and everything is good. DA pull is heavy as hell, SA breaks cleanly at a much lower weight. I’ll put it on the scale later to find the exact number.

Planning on a range visit Monday. Test ammo will be CCI standard velocity, if I get that zeroed I’ll put some Eley Club and Federal 711B plus whatever else I have in the ammo drawer for groups.

It might be a Taurus but I get special satisfaction from fixing old guns.   For your $120 purchase price plus parts that is a fine looking revolver.    Let us know how it shoots!   I think regularly shooting DA model 94’s helps the triggers improve.    My Stainless Steel model 94 DA trigger is very useable.   Not quite as good as my K frame model 15 S&W but still fun to shoot.

My .17hmr Tracker needed restoration nib.

It was hitting the rim so hard it deformed them and locked up the cylinder. I took a coil off which solved that issue but caused occasional DA light strikes. Unfortunately it wouldn't group better than 12" at 25 yards no matter the ammo.

I made it to the range today, accuracy wasn’t that bad (thank heavens), but not too great either. Adjusting the sights was challenging as the elevation “clicks” are rather large, but even with the crappy rest I managed to get somewhat close to a decent zero.

Pics and full report coming soon.

So like my brief update said I wasn’t too pleased with the adjustability of the sight.

One major mistake I made was in not bringing my rest, I’m in the middle of a move so it is packed up, so I ended up trying to use the roughly 4x4x6 sandbag the range provided, which had to be put on a tupperware box of my 38 reloads and a couple 38 boxes to get sufficient elevation, needless to say less than ideal. A lot is probably the monkey pulling the trigger, I haven’t shot much the last few months beside dry firing my 442 every other day or so.

I got it on the paper with CCI standard velocity, then had a lot of fun trying to zero on a black target with black sights. Eventually I got there, and after taking a break from firing the J frame did my rough ammo test. All fired at 23 yards (the 25 yard range is a little short at this place) single action off the rest, 15 rds each. Might be a 38 hole in a couple because I was using the little spots on a large target. The diamonds and circles are 1.5” and the black square is 1”.

CCI Standard Velocity to kick it off:



Next some SK Standard Plus:



Not having enough of weird primer funk, some Eley Club:



Federal 711B:



Some Norma Tac 22 (rebranded RWS ammo of some kind):


At this point, with close to 200 rds fired, ejection was becoming difficult. Last I fired 15 or so of the CCI double action, at about a one second cadence at 10 yards:



Not awesome but considering how badly the trigger stacks I’m not unhappy.

For a sub $200 gun I’m happy with the results. It looks like it will be an ok close range plinker, maybe I can get a better zero off my rest in a month or so, not sure it would do too well in the local 4” 25 yd steel plate match.

For rimfire challenge it should be GTG with some sight paint and a dump pouch full of speedloaders

I’m gonna get it wiped down, cylinder cleaned, and some paint on the front sight. I will get to go plinking a couple times next week so I’ll report how that goes.